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Gustin - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 81

post #1201 of 3179
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljlakers View Post

So I received my first pair of Gustins last week - the Okayama Standards. My first foray into raw denim. I know this has been covered to death but a couple questions on how to proceed. First of all I got the slims and I can button the top button but barely. I mean we're talking internal organ damage if I kept these on too long. So here are my questions:

1) What's the next step? Cold soak? For how long? And then do I wear them wet? And for how long?

2) I need to get them hemmed but the question is how short? If I want one cuff, should I do it two inches longer?

3) Is it sacrilege to change out the button fly for a zipper? I frigging hate button flys. Don't even understand why people like them.

Thanks!

1) Just wear them to stretch out the waist. If you don't want to do that, you can cold soak it inside out for like 30-45 minutes (I used woolite dark) and then stretch the waist with your hands and then hang dry which is what I did. I wore it the next day after it was dry. Some people wear it when it's damp. It's up to you.

2) If you cold soak it, hopefully it got rid of any potential shrinkage and then you can get hem hemmed. How much is up to you and how big you want the cuff.

3) Can't help you there. I like button flys.
post #1202 of 3179
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljlakers View Post

So I received my first pair of Gustins last week - the Okayama Standards. My first foray into raw denim. I know this has been covered to death but a couple questions on how to proceed. First of all I got the slims and I can button the top button but barely. I mean we're talking internal organ damage if I kept these on too long. So here are my questions:

1) What's the next step? Cold soak? For how long? And then do I wear them wet? And for how long? You can soak them, but don't need to as they're sanforized and shouldn't shrink much. Soaking will just remove a bit of the indigo and starch, if you want to make them a bit softer. Also you don't wear them wet, you just hang dry them. Wearing wet is something some people do with unsanforized denims, but it really isn't a good idea for them to do since it can ruin the knees.

2) I need to get them hemmed but the question is how short? If I want one cuff, should I do it two inches longer?
If you get them hemmed, make sure you get them done by someone who can do a chain stitch. If you want a single cuff, then you want them about a cuffs width longer than you want (1-1.5" probably).

3) Is it sacrilege to change out the button fly for a zipper? I frigging hate button flys. Don't even understand why people like them.
It's not "sacrilege" but if you wanted a zipper you should have gotten a different brand. It's going to be expensive to put in a zipper, and the fly isn't cut to have a zipper. There are other brands that make zippered raws. That said, buttons are better. First off, they have more lateral flex when you sit down, so you don't get "zipper boner" where the zipper bends and pops out. Also, buttons are easily repaired if one breaks, while a broken zipper can basically ruin a pair of pants. Also, once you get used to button flies, you may very well prefer them, as they give great fade patterns and add a really great detail to your raws. I try to buy all my pants with button flies now, if I can.


Thanks!
post #1203 of 3179
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljlakers View Post

1) What's the next step? Cold soak? For how long? And then do I wear them wet? And for how long?

2) I need to get them hemmed but the question is how short? If I want one cuff, should I do it two inches longer?

3) Is it sacrilege to change out the button fly for a zipper? I frigging hate button flys. Don't even understand why people like them.
 
 
1) No need to soak them right away. Just wear them and they'll stretch.
 
2) Do not hem them until you have soaked them or washed them if you ever plan to do so. You want to shrink them to their final dimensions before hemming. Two inches is a good length for a single cuff. I like it that way but you can like some other length for the cuffs.
 
3) You don't want a zipper. Button flys work well with pants that are expected to stretch. Zippers won't stretch. If you want a zipper, change it when the jeans are broken in to their final state. You might also wan't to pick a size that is initially very tight and stretches to be the perfect fit. Just like your slims appear to be. Zipper might break while buttons can handle the tightness.
post #1204 of 3179
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iipe View Post
 

Thanks Wonsmithr8, wdahab, and lipe for the advice. I guess I'll persist on the buttonfly and see if it grows on me. I've only had one pair with button fly before and it just seemed a pain every time I needed to piss. But I can understand how a zipper might negatively affect the construction of that section of the jeans. As for breaking them in, I'm not sure how I can wear them for more a few minutes at a time right now, but I assume based on what you're saying that they will stretch pretty quickly.

post #1205 of 3179
So far I only have one pair of Gustins (that will be changing in a day or so), and they are the American Classics. I have a few other pairs of other brands. I'm not a hardcore denim-head, so I throw them in a cold wash as soon as I get them to get any shrinkage out of the inseam and remove some of the starch and rinse off whatever else is just laying on the surface of the fabric. I let them hang to dry. The inseam on my American Classics shrank 1". I have some heavier weight raw denim that shrank 2".

That is just my experience.
post #1206 of 3179
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljlakers View Post
 

I guess I'll persist on the buttonfly and see if it grows on me. I've only had one pair with button fly before and it just seemed a pain every time I needed to piss.

I can usually open button fly pants faster than zipper.  You just need to undo the top button then pull down/apart all at once and every button will come undone.  Buttoning it will get quicker as you get used to em.

post #1207 of 3179
Quote:
Originally Posted by wilay05 View Post

what does everyone think of the new wallet?  I have the $25 dollar one and love it.  The new one looks nice but its a little too big and expensive for my taste.

My bifold in natural chromexcel just shipped, so I can let you know when I get it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljlakers View Post

So I received my first pair of Gustins last week - the Okayama Standards. My first foray into raw denim. I know this has been covered to death but a couple questions on how to proceed. First of all I got the slims and I can button the top button but barely. I mean we're talking internal organ damage if I kept these on too long. So here are my questions:

1) What's the next step? Cold soak? For how long? And then do I wear them wet? And for how long?

2) I need to get them hemmed but the question is how short? If I want one cuff, should I do it two inches longer?

3) Is it sacrilege to change out the button fly for a zipper? I frigging hate button flys. Don't even understand why people like them.

Thanks!

I hate zipper flies. So very, very much I hate them. I only buy certain brands of chinos because I don't like dealing with zippers. They add no value unless the pants are relatively high-rise because you have to undo the top button anyway. That goes double for raw denim. Zipper tape doesn't stretch, so if the waist stretches, the zipper might not want to go up all the way because it no longer aligns with the dimensions of the jeans. The worst is a zipper fly on unsanforized denim, because then you have the added effect of the zipper not shrinking which leads to additional problems.
post #1208 of 3179

Is it improper to ask if anyone is selling Gustin shirts size medium in this thread? If it is sorry, noob to the rules.

post #1209 of 3179
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljlakers View Post

So I received my first pair of Gustins last week - the Okayama Standards. My first foray into raw denim. I know this has been covered to death but a couple questions on how to proceed. First of all I got the slims and I can button the top button but barely. I mean we're talking internal organ damage if I kept these on too long. So here are my questions:

1) What's the next step? Cold soak? For how long? And then do I wear them wet? And for how long?

2) I need to get them hemmed but the question is how short? If I want one cuff, should I do it two inches longer?

3) Is it sacrilege to change out the button fly for a zipper? I frigging hate button flys. Don't even understand why people like them.

Thanks!


1) Do not soak for at least 6 months.

2) Don't get them hemmed. Stack them or cuff them.

3) GTFO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

So, that's the basic denim head answer. For your own, do whatever you want as long as you don't tumble dry your denim. You'll be ok, my friend.

post #1210 of 3179
Quote:
Originally Posted by barrelntrigger View Post
 


1) Do not soak for at least 6 months.

2) Don't get them hemmed. Stack them or cuff them.

3) GTFO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

So, that's the basic denim head answer. For your own, do whatever you want as long as you don't tumble dry your denim. You'll be ok, my friend.

Hahahaha! Look, I now better understand the structural strains putting a zipper on raw denim might create, but it will take a good long while for you all to convince me that unbuttoning and buttoning four buttons is easier or more convenient than pulling a zipper up or down. I don't see technical climbers pushing buttons through buttonholes on their storm jackets. But everyone rest easy, I won't touch the fly!

post #1211 of 3179
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljlakers View Post
 

Hahahaha! Look, I now better understand the structural strains putting a zipper on raw denim might create, but it will take a good long while for you all to convince me that unbuttoning and buttoning four buttons is easier or more convenient than pulling a zipper up or down. I don't see technical climbers pushing buttons through buttonholes on their storm jackets. But everyone rest easy, I won't touch the fly!

post #1212 of 3179
Just ordered a pair of Natural Indigo2. Hope these are a good first pair. I'm trying to nail the sizing but I'm not even sure if I'm measuring my pants correctly. Can someone tell me if these are around the measurements I should be getting?

31" Levi 514s
waist 33
front rise 10
thigh 24
knee 17.5
cuff 17.5

30" Gap 1969 Skinny
waist 32
front rise 9
thigh 23
knee 15.5
cuff 14.5

I'd like something between the two of them but not sure if I should go with a 32" Slim or a 31" Straight. My inseam is like 28" and I'm a little overweight right now so I'm leaning toward the 32" slim.
post #1213 of 3179
Quote:
Originally Posted by barrelntrigger View Post
 

I try to go commando as little as possible.

post #1214 of 3179

Josh,

 

That roughout wallet is sweeeet. Can you guys make it in the simple wallet style? I prefer a card case over a bifold. I would be all over that.

 

Thanks!

post #1215 of 3179
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljlakers View Post
 

Josh,

 

That roughout wallet is sweeeet. Can you guys make it in the simple wallet style? I prefer a card case over a bifold. I would be all over that.

 

Thanks!

I love the roughout, it would even match a pair of boots I have. But I do not like the design of the bifold wallet, only thing holding me back. Not enough card slots and too sharp on the corners. 

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