+1. Beautiful shoes.
Zonkey Boot Appreciation Thread - Page 9
Hey guys! Although it's been awhile since anyone has posted in this thread, myself and another member over on GYW on reddit are starting a GMTO for a ZB Jodhpur.
Here is a link to the reddit post. Feel free to respond on here or on Reddit! I'll probably be quicker to respond on reddit if that matters but we're still in the discussion stages so urgency shouldn't be an issue. Most of the discussion will take place on Reddit so keep an eye out for any developments!
The tentative makeup is as follows:
Model: ZB 034.Jodhpur III
Leather: Russian Hatch Grain Calf in Walnut
Last: Sailor Last
Sole: Vibram 'Golf' Sole (aka Vibram's dainite) which can be seen on this ZB boot
Strap: To Be Determined
Lining: To Be Determined
ZB has also updated the Russian hatch calf Jodhpur (as quoted from ZB via email):
- Changes in preparation and finishing of the Russian Calf leather: we treat the leather before upper making by washing off the wax surplus and softening the leather using a bee wax based balm. We burnish the toe box and counter of the finished shoes.
- The buckle: We have changed the old antique finishing brass buckle to a high density brass buckle with nickel plating, for superior quality. (As seen in all other Jodhpurs on our web shop). The old buckle is not available anymore.
We originally decided to go GMTO to both avoid the MTO markup and to change the sole to rubber. Shortly after, it was decided that a contrast strap would also be pretty cool so now there's some room for discussion. You can find ZB's leather swatches here and here.
Sizing: UK 5 to UK 12 in the E and H fitting. Sizing advice can be requested from ZB via email or phone. Last and E fitting information can be found on this webpage. H fitting information is described as:
- Our regular fitting is a UK E, but all our lasts and models are available in a so-called H fitting, which is a hybrid between a G fitting at the ball (or EE fitting for American customers) and an H fitting at the instep (the equivalent of US fitting EEE). All our H fitting lasts are based on the same outline as our UK E fitting lasts. So there is a considerable increase of volume compared to the E fitting without loosing the last’s elegant appearance.
US and Non-EU - €709 ($790.78 at current exchange rate) + shipping
EU - €849 + shipping
Estimated Lead Time: Since we won't be working with any crazy exotic leathers, lead time will be the standard 8-12 weeks on a ZB MTO order. If anything changes on that, you will be notified!
For what it's worth, ZB recommends the Bavarian Calf:
- In our opinion the most ideal material would be Bavarian Calf; its fine grain an high shine would make a nice contrast to Russian Calf
There is a bit more on reddit but nothing critical. Let me know what you think or join us over on Reddit!
Sorry won't participate in the makeup but wanted to check if you mean that ZB allows mixed widths for GMTOs or is there some minimum order before they allow additional widths?
Good luck for the GMTO!
Thanks! Any strap feedback is good feedback.
ZB strongly recommended against the water buffalo since it's so soft... not that it should really matter but I can imagine tightening it to be a bit of an odd affair. The other guy on the GMTO so far doesn't seem remotely interested in the water buffalo so unfortunately I think that's out the window.
Seeing that this thread has been quiet for some time.
Here is some stuff that I've recently received from ZB.... whom IMO is a rather underrated maker that's still relatively under the radar.
This is a single MTO.
This is the ZB wholecut derby boot that seems to be one of their iconic designs. I've made it up in dark brown elephant leather, chained norvegese construction, and St Moritz rubber sole.
I've admired this wholecut design for quite awhile now, and felt that the coarse, rugged appearance of the elephant would go well this casually styled boot and the chained norvegese stitching.
I also tend to prefer plain / wholecut designs, with minimal seams for leather / exotics that have a particulary interesting appearance or texture.
This is made in the sailor last. One of ZB's more commonly used lasts. Again, this last gives off pretty casual vibes which goes well with this makeup IMO. It has a very gradual taper from the toebox down to the toe area and ends off with a soft square-like toe. The heel is fairly generous but the instep is not overtly high. The overall fit is good and reasonably snug in my true size (UK8.5).
The elephant leather is tremendously interesting. Apart from the large "striations" in the leather that are obvious, the grain surface / epidermis actually has a very coarse "knobbly" grain, kind of like "pebble grain" but much smaller scale. The leather does feel dry to the touch and is significantly thicker than regular calf. However, it still is pretty soft and comfortable to walk in.
I would imagine that it isn't easy to handle and to block / last for the maker. Especially for a wholecut boot design. But ZB did a commendable job of it.
The sole I chose was the St Moritz rubber sole. Looks similar to a commando sole and has a similar thickness / side profile.
It does feel denser and firmer than most of the other rubber soles I've handled, and lacks the "sponginess" that say... dainite might have. It is still fairly flexible and comfortable to walk on. And complements the chunky design well.
The chained norvegese stitching is fairly neat and well executed. It is probably a little more difficult to execute here given the thickness of the leather.
The closing (though minimally needed for this design) is also reasonably neat considering the uneven-ness of the leather.
One thing I really like here is the sole edge finishing. I had not specified anything for the MTO and ZB had gone ahead and finished it in light brown / almost natural. I felt it was a pretty nice touch to the entire look and added a little bit of contrast and interest overall, coupled with the norvegese stitching.
The default laces provided here are leather. Not the easiest to handle though, as they tend to twist around a little. Round cotton laces are also provided though, for those who might want a change.
My overall impressions are pretty positive.
They are a good maker with some really unique and interesting offerings, both in terms of leathers and also their designs. Nothing outlandish or vulgar.
The construction / quality are above average and finishing is very decent.
All for a reasonable price as well.
They do however. probably cater to a pretty niche crowd due to a subtle (appealing) quirkiness. This is not a bad thing though.
Looking forward to seeing how this brand grows.
Edited by ThunderMarch - 10/10/16 at 7:16pm