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Foster & Son/Henry Maxwell: Official Affiliate Thread - Page 48

post #706 of 1132
FosterandSon, could you elaborate a bit on what lasts Mr Astaire prefered? Does he always chose the "squarish" last used for the correspondents?

Andrey
post #707 of 1132
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by andreyb2 View Post

FosterandSon, could you elaborate a bit on what lasts Mr Astaire prefered? Does he always chose the "squarish" last used for the correspondents?

Andrey

 

Andrey,

 

Very good question.

 

From his shoes we'd have to say yes. Our own FredAstaire has posted a clip of him wearing precisely this style (Fred please correct me if I'm wrong). Whether it was a question of being better to dance in or a more pure aesthetic expression of his style I couldn't say. I do think however that he had exquisite taste and I hope we managed to capture that in his shoes.

 

Foster & Son


Edited by FosterandSon - 1/18/14 at 2:21pm
post #708 of 1132
FosterandSon, thank you! -- very interesting.

Andrey
post #709 of 1132
Thread Starter 

Sale shoes we've not previously posted

 

We have one pair of these, made up as a sample for us by EG in a 7E, left in our sale. Please PM if you're interested.

 

 

Foster & Son

post #710 of 1132
Great looking shoe! I presume this is what we can expect from the forthcoming F&S RTW Thomas brogue?

My only criticism is how in recent years, Edward Green have elongated their top caps. This is evident in their staple oxfords such as Chelsea and Berkley where the shoes I purchased c7-8 years ago do have a slightly shorter toes caps than the same model / style purchased in the last 5 years or so. I assume this is the result of contemporary styling pressures and as a result, a small but not unnoticeable deviation from the original / classic proportions which look more elegant.

I have noticed how my most recent Greens can develop evidence of a crease at the top of the cap where it joins the vamp. Absolutely not something that I have on any of the older shoes in the same style. Proof that the longer caps are encroaching too far towards the vamp. Creases on the toe caps are a not a desirable feature in my opinion.

In summary, a beautiful shoe regardless but a slightly shorter cap (and I do mean slightly) would create a more elegant appearance.


An 'old' pair of Edward Green with the shorter toe caps:




An 'old' pair of well worn and recently resoled Edward Greens with the shorter toe caps:
post #711 of 1132
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjl5000 View Post

Great looking shoe! I presume this is what we can expect from the forthcoming F&S RTW Thomas brogue?

My only criticism is how in recent years, Edward Green have elongated their top caps. This is evident in their staple oxfords such as Chelsea and Berkley where the shoes I purchased c7-8 years ago do have a slightly shorter toes caps than the same model / style purchased in the last 5 years or so. I assume this is the result of contemporary styling pressures and as a result, a small but not unnoticeable deviation from the original / classic proportions which look more elegant.

I have noticed how my most recent Greens can develop evidence of a crease at the top of the cap where it joins the vamp. Absolutely not something that I have on any of the older shoes in the same style. Proof that the longer caps are encroaching too far towards the vamp. Creases on the toe caps are a not a desirable feature in my opinion.

In summary, a beautiful shoe regardless but a slightly shorter cap (and I do mean slightly) would create a more elegant appearance.


An 'old' pair of Edward Green with the shorter toe caps:




An 'old' pair of well worn and recently resoled Edward Greens with the shorter toe caps:

 

jjl5000,

 

Very interesting indeed. I've posted some pictures below of our new shoes for comparison (made on our own last which is currently being modified to create more of a 'Foster's' toe). What do you think about the cap length? My guess is that it's somewhere between the two. And you're right, it is a sample for our new RTW Thomas.

 

 

 

Foster & Son

post #712 of 1132
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjl5000 View Post

My only criticism is how in recent years, Edward Green have elongated their top caps. This is evident in their staple oxfords such as Chelsea and Berkley where the shoes I purchased c7-8 years ago do have a slightly shorter toes caps than the same model / style purchased in the last 5 years or so.

jjl5000 - you are right, EG changed the design of the "Chelsea" (and all it's variants like "Berkeley", "Cadogan", "Malvern") from "old Chelsea" to "new Chelsea". Although I believe it was longer ago than 7 or 8 years, it was probably sometime in the late '90 (while John Hlustik was still alive).

It's not only the toe cap that got longer, but the vamp point got higher and the shoe closes higher up the instep. So the "new" top-line is less scooped out than the "old" one (showing less sock).
post #713 of 1132
Quote:
Originally Posted by FosterandSon View Post

jjl5000,

Very interesting indeed. I've posted some pictures below of our new shoes for comparison (made on our own last which is currently being modified to create more of a 'Foster's' toe). What do you think about the cap length? My guess is that it's somewhere between the two. And you're right, it is a sample for our new RTW Thomas.







Foster & Son

The angle a shoe is pictured can at times be deceptive. An overhead shot is best but the toe caps don't look too long particularly based on the second photo.

In the case of the Thomas brogue sample by Green; they will know how they have changed their aesthetic over time and just need to be told to stop fiddling and put things back as they should be smile.gif


Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

jjl5000 - you are right, EG changed the design of the "Chelsea" (and all it's variants like "Berkeley", "Cadogan", "Malvern") from "old Chelsea" to "new Chelsea". Although I believe it was longer ago than 7 or 8 years, it was probably sometime in the late '90 (while John Hlustik was still alive).

It's not only the toe cap that got longer, but the vamp point got higher and the shoe closes higher up the instep. So the "new" top-line is less scooped out than the "old" one (showing less sock).

I do recall a post some time ago explaining the whole 'new' Chelsea, 'new' Berkeley etc. If memory serves, the 'old' styles were a little more square where the vamp meets the bottom of the facing. I'm not sure if the 'old' style had the swan neck stitching along the facing either...

However, you'll see the pics I posted, particularly the Berkeley, are (I believe) what you describe as 'new' Berkeley... They have the rounder cut seam between the vamp and facing and the swan's neck. I genuinely believe Green have pushed the changes evident in 'new' Berkley (and their brethren) even further in recent years, to include longer caps and even higher facings. For want of a better name, I'd class this latest crop as 'new, new' Berkeley, Chelsea etc. and this latest change to the EG aesthetic is, at least as far as I am concerned, not welcome.

At the risk of labouring the point ad nauseam; I'll organise a comparative snap of what I believe is 'new' Berkeley vs. 'new, new' Berkeley.
Edited by jjl5000 - 1/19/14 at 7:34am
post #714 of 1132
Apologies for the poor lighting but I hope this adequately illustrates the differences. Both are EG Berkeley, same size, same width, same last (888)...

Berkeley_zps944caac4.jpg
post #715 of 1132
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjl5000 View Post


The angle a shoe is pictured can at times be deceptive. An overhead shot is best but the toe caps don't look too long particularly based on the second photo.

In the case of the Thomas brogue sample by Green; they will know how they have changed their aesthetic over time and just need to be told to stop fiddling and put things back as they should be smile.gif
I do recall a post some time ago explaining the whole 'new' Chelsea, 'new' Berkeley etc. If memory serves, the 'old' styles were a little more square where the vamp meets the bottom of the facing. I'm not sure if the 'old' style had the swan neck stitching along the facing either...

However, you'll see the pics I posted, particularly the Berkeley, are (I believe) what you describe as 'new' Berkeley... They have the rounder cut seam between the vamp and facing and the swan's neck. I genuinely believe Green have pushed the changes evident in 'new' Berkley (and their brethren) even further in recent years, to include longer caps and even higher facings. For want of a better name, I'd class this latest crop as 'new, new' Berkeley, Chelsea etc. and this latest change to the EG aesthetic is, at least as far as I am concerned, not welcome.

At the risk of labouring the point ad nauseam; I'll organise a comparative snap of what I believe is 'new' Berkeley vs. 'new, new' Berkeley.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjl5000 View Post

Apologies for the poor lighting but I hope this adequately illustrates the differences. Both are EG Berkeley, same size, same width, same last (888)...

Berkeley_zps944caac4.jpg

 

We'll have a look at this. I know that Richard, our Chairman, is particularly keen to keep the proportions right.

post #716 of 1132
Thread Starter 

Gentlemen,

 

Opinions very welcome on these vintage shoes.

 

 

 

 

 

Foster & Son

post #717 of 1132

Do the different shoes fit different kind of feet? Which of them would fit my low-volume/low-instep feet better? The Berkeleys that is.

post #718 of 1132
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silhouette View Post
 

Do the different shoes fit different kind of feet? Which of them would fit my low-volume/low-instep feet better? The Berkeleys that is.

 

That's a good question which I will defer to bengal-stripe. All I can say is that our new last seems to do a good job with your foot characteristics.

post #719 of 1132
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silhouette View Post

Do the different shoes fit different kind of feet? Which of them would fit my low-volume/low-instep feet better? The Berkeleys that is.

All I can tell you is I don't find there is any noticeable difference in fit. I'm not sure I would expect anything else given they're still made on the same last.
post #720 of 1132
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjl5000 View Post


All I can tell you is I don't find there is any noticeable difference in fit. I'm not sure I would expect anything else given they're still made on the same last.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by FosterandSon View Post
 

 

That's a good question which I will defer to bengal-stripe. All I can say is that our new last seems to do a good job with your foot characteristics.

 

Thank you both for your replies. I derived my question from the fact that the position of eyelets are different on the pairs. 

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