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Foster & Son/Henry Maxwell: Official Affiliate Thread - Page 23

post #331 of 1132
Quote:
Originally Posted by culverwood View Post

Here are some Fosters bespoke ladies shoes made for my wife.

CIMG1064.jpg

Splendid!
post #332 of 1132
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


They could have been "pump stitched". Which is a lot like blake except done by hand and nearly a lost art due to the necessity of working down deep inside the forepart of the shoe, blind, as who should say.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


cheers.gif

If I'm not mistaken this technique is also known as "channel-stitching."

Made a pair of pump-sttiched / channel-stitched shoes for my wife a couple of years ago. They turned out pretty nice, better than I had any reason to hope for. I was not trained to do that kind of work (who is??!) and know of only one person on this side of the pond (my particular friend--DA Saguto at Colonial Williamsburg) who might have been. So, I was kind of making it up as I went along.

I was going to post a few photos of that pair of shoes but I suspect that they would be OT in this thread. cool.gif

 

DWFII,

 

I asked today in the workshop and Emiko confirmed that we are still doing pump stitching. She drew a little diagram of how it works (which, needless to say I left in the shop!) and it looked about as fiddly as can be, apparently the awl is very, very fine. She also showed me some slippers that we are making with this type of stitching (sorry I can't show them, they have some very customer-specific details in the embroidery) and confirmed that dancing shoes, particularly the Astaire shoes in the links above, would most likely have been made using this technique.

 

George took pictures of some vintage pumps (together with a modern rtw for comparison) to illustrate the clean lines that are a feature of this kind of work and Emiko confirmed that this is 'sewn' not 'stitched'.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Foster & Son

post #333 of 1132
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by woolymammoth View Post

Is this a Foster & Son satchel? If so, can you provide any details and pictures from different angles and of the inside of the bag...thank you.

 

woolymammoth,

 

We have one left! George took some photographs this afternoon, please let me know if you need more details.

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #334 of 1132
Quote:
Originally Posted by FosterandSon View Post

woolymammoth,

We have one left! George took some photographs this afternoon, please let me know if you need more details.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



















Thank you for the pictures - I appreciate it.
post #335 of 1132
Thread Starter 

Our pleasure

post #336 of 1132
F&S,

Al Saguto posted this on The Crispin Colloquy...

From John F. Rees : The Art and Mystery of a Cordwainer (London, 1813)
Channel Pump

The stuff is to be fitted as in that of the shoe. The inner sole is to be laid to the last, and the seat of the heel rounded and holed as that of the shoe or pump.—The inner sole at the fore part is to be pared plumb to the edge of the last; and if it be stout enough, let it be taken off the last, and with the point of the knife slit the edge, near the grain side, round the fore part, in depth, full equal to the width of the sewing stitch, that, when the channel is sewed, it may cover the stitch : therefore it must be turned back when sewing.—But if the inner sole be too thin, you must cover the stitch with a thin strip or a sock: the latter is preferable to the other two.—Now lay the inner sole again on the last and last the upper leather, like that of the shoe; but the upper leather must be allowed wider than that of the shoe, that the tacks may be more within the inner sole.

After the channel is lasted, and the upper leather laid smooth on the inner sole, as well as the upper leather side, so that the edge of the last may be discernible, then brace the upper leather to the inner sole, close and firm, all round the fore part.

Then fill up the vacant space of the inner sole, that is between the upper leather, with some skivings to make it level, and proceed with the heel part as directed in the shoe. Before you put on the sole; put some paste between, and then let the sole Be well settled, and round it nearly to the edge of the last; then go on with the heel to that of paring, before you proceed with the fore part.

When you have done so much to the heel, cut a channel in the sole round the fore part, about the same distance from the edge of the last as that of the sewing stitch of a pump; and the channel must be of such width as to have a skiving off of the grain of the sole, equal to the width of the stitch: in this case, the thread will be rather full.

Then, with a straight flat awl, hole the sole through and inner sole to the last, in the channel round the fore part.—Now take the last out, and make a full thread; let it be well waxed, but not so hard twisted as in that of the shoe. You must have two threads, one from the heel to the toe, and the other from the toe to the heel.— After you have sewed the channel pump round, put the last in again and fittings, and lay the sole even, and scour out the sole, and slick it well.— Then pare the sole to the edge of the last, like that of the pump, and pare it sloping from the stitch to the edge of the sole, so that the edge may be what thickness you please, and slick the stitch, the sloping, and the square edges well; prick the stitches; and buff the bottom.—-Now finish the heel as directed in that of the shoe.

A double channel pump is only to add a second row of stitching within the first.
post #337 of 1132
Thread Starter 

DWFII,

 

Absolutely fascinating. I'll share this with the guys in the workshop. I'm pretty sure that we don't have the book so will ask them to contrast and compare with their method.

 

Best,

 

Foster & Son

post #338 of 1132
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FosterandSon View Post
 

 

woolymammoth,

 

We have one left! George took some photographs this afternoon, please let me know if you need more details.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The satchel is based on an old Kroll design from the 1920's and is known as a 'Two Strap Flap over Briefcase'. Pictures of the back and underside below.

 

 

 

 

Foster & Son

post #339 of 1132
Thread Starter 

Gladstone Bag

 

Here are some photographs of a Gladstone bag we had made a little while ago, I absolutely love and covet it. If you want any more information (it's for sale), please PM.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Foster & Son

post #340 of 1132
Thread Starter 

Final Call - price drops on Edward Green for Foster & Son Shoes, now £469 including VAT and international delivery

 

We are reaching the last few of our Edward Green stock shoes. Please email us at shoemakers@foster.co.uk, to check on size, or PM us for more details.

 

The Portman in black on the 88 last, all gone

The Portman in Burgundy on the 88 last, one pair in 7.5E

The Clifton in Black on the 888 last, one pair each in 6.5E, 7E, 7.5E, 8.5E and 9E

The Clifton in Dark Oak on the 888 last, one pair each in 7.5E, 10E, 10.5E and 11.5E and 12E

The Snowdon Loafer in Tan on the 184 last, one pair in 12E

The Hamble Monk in Tan on the 606 last, one pair in 10E

The Fitzwilliam in Black on the 888 last, one pair each in 6E, 6.5E, 7E, 8.5E and 9.5

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v80), quality = 90

The Regent Austerity Brogue in Black on the 888 last, one pair in 8.5E

The Gordon Spectator on the 202 last, one pair each in 6E, 6.5E and 9.5E

Please contact us by PM or email at shoemakers@foster.co.uk. Please be sure of your size and fit as we will not be accepting returns.

 

Foster & Son

post #341 of 1132
Thread Starter 

Lee Roach collaboration casual shoes

Some time ago we were involved in a collaboration with Lee Roach to produce a series of casual shoes for London Men’s Fashion Week. We have some stock remaining and would like to make it available to Styleforum members at a significant discount, the model is the Abingdon, produced on the 461 last in an E fitting.

 

Price £249 including VAT and worldwide delivery.

 

Abingdon Stock Inventory

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Style:

6.0E

6.5E

7.0E

7.5E

8.0E

8.5E

9.0E

9.5E

10.0E

10.5E

11.0E

11.5E

12.0E

Abingdon Black Suede with Leather Vamp Dainite

 

 

 

 

 

 

x

 

x

 

x

 

 

Abingdon Black Suede Vamp Dainite

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

x

 

x

 

 

Abingdon Black Leather

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

x

Abingdon Light Tan

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

x

 

x

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Foster & Son

post #342 of 1132
Quote:
Originally Posted by FosterandSon View Post


GQ’s 25th anniversary will be celebrated in Jermyn Street on Thursday 21st November. We at Foster & Son will be holding a drinks reception at 83 Jermyn Street to mark the occasion between 6-8pm. If you’re in London please come in and see us for a drink and a chat.

Popped into Fosters tonight and had a pleasant chat with Andy (Sales Manager) and Frank (Foster’s voice here in the forum). The new range of ready-to-wear shoes looks really good.

As a ‘thank you’ to the nice people at Foster, here is a picture of the bespoke team which I took some three years ago at a Jermyn Street festival, when many of the firms did set-up shop on the pavement and gave demonstrations of their craft and skills



Terry Moore surrounded by Emma Lakin, Emiko Matsuda and Kasia Szafraniec (left to right)
post #343 of 1132

Wow, those cobblers are all damn good looking!

post #344 of 1132
Cordwainers, mate, cordwainers.

Anyway what time does The Ashes start I'm falling asleep already?
post #345 of 1132
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ich_Dien View Post

Cordwainers, mate, cordwainers.

Anyway what time does The Ashes start I'm falling asleep already?

I stand corrected.

 

That word, Cordwainer, makes them even more attractive.

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