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Folded Up Shirt P0rn - Page 57

post #841 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by kali77 View Post
Those Finamore's are gorgeous

Today's arrivals. Last 2-3 orders were more basic and ordinary, so I threw some shirts that I felt had a little more "color" so to speak in this round.


what's the fabric number of the light blue stripe? thanks.
post #842 of 4653
Then my other shirt order arrived. 3 for summer and 3 for Fall. Ordering these by the half dozen is dangerously easy.

Light yellow linen:





Tan voile:





Light blue voile:





Stripes for Fall.


White on light blue:





Green and blue fine stripe:






Light yellow fine stripe:


post #843 of 4653
Kali,

I have that exact same purple check fabric made from another hong kong custom tailor... it wears hot as hell. I'd recommend winter wear - but your experience may vary.
post #844 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob01 View Post
Just picked these up from the tailor...
13 Shirts that got recut/fitted better (Thanks everyone for your comments about fit on my previous threads!)
16 Shirts ordered while I was over there
= 29 Shirts total :-)





These are pretty much all my dress (business & casual) shirts...mixture of flat hemmed/tailed, barrel/french/turnback cuffs, very few are short sleeves (3), all with the same spread collar with slightly extended points..

Any suggestions for additional Colors/Patterns that would round out the palate?

Can you break down all those shirts by maker?
post #845 of 4653
Today, a package arrived from Freedom:



Charvet bespoke white zendeline with the RJman collar:



Charvet bespoke turquoise stripe with the RJman collar:



A surprise inside!



Lanvin bespoke ivory jacquard shirt:




And so my bespoke days end. Until my very last Delos arrives... ()
post #846 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post

Ah, I see you are dressing as Karl Lagerfeld this Halloween. Very nice.
post #847 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smahatma View Post
Ah, I see you are dressing as Karl Lagerfeld this Halloween. Very nice.
How flattering . But he wears bespoke shirts from Hilditch & Key Paris.
post #848 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
And so my bespoke days end. Until my very last Delos arrives... ()

Charvet and Lanvin bespoke: comparez les deux, svp.

- B
post #849 of 4653
I do not 'get' why lanvin is so great... I'm sure I'm an idiot.

the shirt looks great.. folded.. but how they look 'on you' is way more important. Thanks.
post #850 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by kngrimm View Post
I do not 'get' why lanvin is so great... I'm sure I'm an idiot.

the shirt looks great.. folded.. but how they look 'on you' is way more important. Thanks.

I don't think you get the point of this thread, which was started by Manton in one of his more cruel, ironic moments, to be a completely meaningless thread where people could show off their new, unworn shirts without actually demonstrating fit or any other qualities. Why call me out and not everyone else on the dozens of pages this has spiralled to.
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Charvet and Lanvin bespoke: comparez les deux, svp.

- B
Anyhow, Lanvin's bespoke has very little to do with its "moneyed gayboy" esthetic of the RTW it sells at Barneys or the "bland Sarkozy" style RTW suits it sells in Paris. The shirts are perhaps the best bespoke shirts in Paris, if not the world, and are made on one of the floors of their flagship on rue du Faubourg St Honore, although the bespoke makers are shunted around by management (which had stuck them in the basement pending renovation the last time I checked) and not given much press, apart from an almost completely erroneous write up in Men's Vogue.

Marc Lauwers, late of the Dunhill White Shirt Bar and Chat-Bite, is the bespoke shirtmaker, and favors a very close-fitting shirt. He has excellent attention to detail, and the various classical points of good bespoke are still observed, as only one other shirtmaker in Paris does -- a shirt made up solely for fitting, cloth preshrunk before making, the customer welcome to stop back after several wears and washes for followup fitting. Unlike Charvet, they also provide extra cloth for replacement collars and cuffs to be made, if desired, and the buttonholes are hand-sewn (Charvet only sews the buttons themselves by hand). Also unlike Charvet, they fuse the collars, but I don't have a prejudice against that so long as it's done well. They lack Charvet's confidence in its survival -- the bespoke order room at Charvet with the thousands of bolts of cloth helped rationalize going to Charvet at twice the price of Lucca or Courtot, as does Charvet's warm but knowledgeable service. Lanvin has some bolts tucked away and plenty of books of cloth, but the bespoke order floor, even before they sent them to the basement, was a bit forlorn, with a dim corner for Gelot and a couple bespoke tailors lounging around. I have never seen another bespoke customer there, unlike at Charvet. Charvet also features a somewhat more generous cut than Lanvin. It is correct and by no means tentlike, but is more forgiving if one starts or stops going to the gym, or if the shirt ends up in the dryer at high heat. The fellow who made my first shirts at Charvet, Luis, was utterly charming and was very impressed by my first Lanvin shirt, even when Madame Colban moved out of earshot. He noted the buttonhole work in particular as belonging to a different age -- while some other places offer handsewn buttonholes, in general the workmanship doesn't live up to the cachet. Lauwers laughed off the Men's Vogue article's assertion that Lanvin was the only place to pre-shrink its cloth or to make a toile d'essayage, and the shoulders aren't hand-stitched as the article implies, although a former Lanvin shirtmaker quite vocally dismisses most handwork pretensions. While Lanvin's bespoke shirts begin at a higher price than Charvet's, my impression is that Lanvin doesn't add dramatic price increases to its shirts for different cloths, as Charvet does.

My two euro cents.
post #851 of 4653
I bought four shirts this week, but unfolded them all in haste except for this one:

post #852 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
I don't think you get the point of this thread, which was started by Manton in one of his more cruel, ironic moments, to be a completely meaningless thread where people could show off their new, unworn shirts without actually demonstrating fit or any other qualities.

I don't get the point of most things, except for one: the main point of an internet forum thread is to go off on a tangent. The second point, of course, is the snark.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
Why call me out and not everyone else on the dozens of pages this has spiralled to.

One word: respect. But then, I have always been bad with antonyms.

When I was in Paris last month, I was hoping to engineer a miracle by speeding up the process at Lanvin, but there was no way out of flying back later, or flying M. Lauwers out to Boston (yes, that was an option that was suggested...I nodded as if I understood, but I could feel my balls shrinking in my trousers), neither of which was in the cards because my schedule is so packed with posting tangential posts on this forum.

Lanvin's bespoke shirt operation fascinates me, since it seems such a persistant vestige of a more elegant past. Thank you for describing it.

- B
post #853 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
He has excellent attention to detail, and the various classical points of good bespoke are still observed, as only one other shirtmaker in Paris does -- a shirt made up solely for fitting, cloth preshrunk before making, the customer welcome to stop back after several wears and washes for followup fitting.

I believe there is a phrase for this...Kabbaz Pizzazz.

- B
post #854 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
I don't get the point of most things, except for one: the main point of an internet forum thread is to go off on a tangent. The second point, of course, is the snark.



One word: respect. But then, I have always been bad with antonyms.

When I was in Paris last month, I was hoping to engineer a miracle by speeding up the process at Lanvin, but there was no way out of flying back later, or flying M. Lauwers out to Boston (yes, that was an option that was suggested...I nodded as if I understood, but I could feel my balls shrinking in my trousers), neither of which was in the cards because my schedule is so packed with posting tangential posts on this forum.

Lanvin's bespoke shirt operation fascinates me, since it seems such a persistant vestige of a more elegant past. Thank you for describing it.

- B

Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
I believe there is a phrase for this...Kabbaz Pizzazz.

- B
Are you trying to give me a taste of my own snark?

I do think there are benefits to having cloth preshrunk and to having a fitting shirt. That said, shirtmaking seems more an art than a science, and I've been impressed with shirts I've seen from Jantzen (that is, after the client has perfected his fit over a few orders) or JLR at fractions of the price of Charvet or Lanvin, so there is a certain amount of fetishism and atavism to patronizing them. But if it weren't for those two qualities these fora wouldn't exist.
post #855 of 4653
RJ, it would be too cruel not to show us more of the Lanvin shirt.
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