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Folded Up Shirt P0rn - Page 309

post #4621 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

Gus, summer heats excluded, I always wear shirts as base layers, below knitwear or jackets. This was their original use and still best serves them. After all, shirt fabrics never drape like cloths so they must sit close to the body to look clean, but this doesn't well serve men with guts, poor posture or askew shoulders. With movement the hem will rise up from the trous and pile up, and the shirting will crease sooner or later. For these reasons, the shirt works best under other garments -- no matter how clean or close its cut.

Good point. I also almost exclusively wear my dress shirts with a suit or sports jacket so i do like it to fit close
post #4622 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post

I'm amazed how slim many of the Italian shirtmakers are cutting the arms of their shirts. I don't have big guns and I'm not fat. Yet I feel like I'm going to tear the fabric when I make a tight curl. I'm getting tired of ordering Italian RTW shirts only to have to return them for lack of room. Crazy.

Do you guys like a tight, slim cut in the arm??

 

As shirtmaker, absolutery yes.

 

Those wide shirts where three arms do fit on a single sleeve on it that are most of the rtw and badspoke are done because ;

 

more selleable as fit more different people in,

 

way easy to do and poor skills of the maker.

 

Those fitted patterns got tons of hours behind of study and are the evolution of shirtmaking, only a few top patternamakers are able to do such perfection to fit the human body and to not look as the usual bags of rice that others less skilled do.

 

Other thing is personal taste of the client, as you per example that prefer less fitted shirts to drive all day etc.  But going bespoke would work.

post #4623 of 4653
My post was about the trend of shirt makers cutting the arms of shirts much more snug and skinny in the last couple of years. I don't mean nicely tailored, I mean tight!.

Do you want a shirt that pulls when you flex your arms? I don't but perhaps I am in the minority. I don't feel comfortable in the GQ cover tight fit suit or shirt look. To me that isn't elegant or the sign of a good fit. I buy custom shirts to have a nice tailored look but not tight or pulling.
post #4624 of 4653
The sleeves cut by Mary Fritolini are incredible and not too lean. She cuts the sleeve with a curve so the cuff stays in place as you bend the elbow. Charvet doesn't even cut it like that.
post #4625 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post

My post was about the trend of shirt makers cutting the arms of shirts much more snug and skinny in the last couple of years. I don't mean nicely tailored, I mean tight!.

Do you want a shirt that pulls when you flex your arms? I don't but perhaps I am in the minority. I don't feel comfortable in the GQ cover tight fit suit or shirt look. To me that isn't elegant or the sign of a good fit. I buy custom shirts to have a nice tailored look but not tight or pulling.

Which brands are you talking about? They all have different fits.
post #4626 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post

My post was about the trend of shirt makers cutting the arms of shirts much more snug and skinny in the last couple of years. I don't mean nicely tailored, I mean tight!.

Do you want a shirt that pulls when you flex your arms? I don't but perhaps I am in the minority. I don't feel comfortable in the GQ cover tight fit suit or shirt look. To me that isn't elegant or the sign of a good fit. I buy custom shirts to have a nice tailored look but not tight or pulling.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by coldinboston View Post


Which brands are you talking about? They all have different fits.

 

I am also curious, Neapolitan slim cut is not extreme as the Milan fashion brands for anorexic like people or too young gents.

 

Also the Neapolitan brands do have different bigger cut for USA export, on the case of Kiton, is a bit(or too much) big for my taste, but they told me that would lose sales if they sent the euro cut that also is not very slim. 

 

It seems their target are +40 people whose body is not like a teenager.

post #4627 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by SartodiNapoli View Post
 

 

 

 

I am also curious, Neapolitan slim cut is not extreme as the Milan fashion brands for anorexic like people or too young gents.

 

Also the Neapolitan brands do have different bigger cut for USA export, on the case of Kiton, is a bit(or too much) big for my taste, but they told me that would lose sales if they sent the euro cut that also is not very slim. 

 

It seems their target are +40 people whose body is not like a teenager.

 

When selling shirts for $500 USD and up, that seems to be a smart business decision.

 

And no, that's not meant as a criticism on the price of the shirts. It just seems to make good business sense to know your customers and cater to them and their needs.

post #4628 of 4653
These shirts just came in from Camiceria Lombardi:
photo image_zpsctx7jsmy.jpeg

photo image_zpsj2vae2pq.jpeg

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Alumo Soyella 2X2 170s broadcloth

photo image_zpsrzomhh2k.jpeg
Alumo Salvatore Triplo 3X3 160s broadcloth

photo image_zps3tcr5kqi.jpeg

photo image_zpsoy3okoak.jpeg

photo image_zpsxj0sx9wk.jpeg

photo image_zpsafhetxza.jpeg
post #4629 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by brax View Post

These shirts just came in from Camiceria Lombardi:
photo image_zpsctx7jsmy.jpeg

photo image_zpsj2vae2pq.jpeg

photo image_zps5xdeniii.jpeg
Alumo Soyella 2X2 170s broadcloth

photo image_zpsrzomhh2k.jpeg
Alumo Salvatore Triplo 3X3 160s broadcloth

photo image_zps3tcr5kqi.jpeg

photo image_zpsoy3okoak.jpeg

photo image_zpsxj0sx9wk.jpeg

photo image_zpsafhetxza.jpeg

 

 

How is this shirtmaker?

 

Is considered very good by my Neapolitan colleagues but I do not know him.

 

 

 

Did you chose the collar stititching on the edge yourself or came by default?

post #4630 of 4653
Thank you, Sarto. I worked exclusively with the son, Simone. He was very knowledgable and we went over many options including the edge stitching. That was my choice. On my sports shirts, I do not opt for that option. I will report back on the quality of the craftsmanship after I've had a chance to wear the shirts a few times.
post #4631 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by brax View Post

Thank you, Sarto. I worked exclusively with the son, Simone. He was very knowledgable and we went over many options including the edge stitching. That was my choice. On my sports shirts, I do not opt for that option. I will report back on the quality of the craftsmanship after I've had a chance to wear the shirts a few times.

 

Interesting. Got pics of the fit, you can pm them if you desire.  Did you visit him I assume?

 

The buttonholes look very good from your pics. 

post #4632 of 4653
Yes. I met with Simone in Napoli where we discussed all of the options. I then returned three weeks later (it could have been sooner but I was in Africa then) for a provo evaluation and adjustment and then final shirting selection. Give me a little time to wear and launder one of the shirts and I'll then post a few pictures to evaluate fit and any other details that you may want. I think that a shirt must be worn and laundered a couple of times before getting a true picture.
post #4633 of 4653
It took about seven weeks from the fitting to mailing the shirts.
post #4634 of 4653
Lombardi is considered probably the only true Camiciaio from everyone else in the tailoring sector in Naples. Whilst others have made their name in the RTW sector with hand details, Luciano Lombardi is first and foremost a bespoke shirtmaker and then an outsourcing shirt operations. He has formed many other shirt makers that went on to have a notable career themselves and they still call him "Maestro". Only thing that keep me from using him exclusively is the lead times.
post #4635 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by brax View Post

It took about seven weeks from the fitting to mailing the shirts.

 

Maybe he got too much orders at the time? Happens in Naples most of the time.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post

Lombardi is considered probably the only true Camiciaio from everyone else in the tailoring sector in Naples. Whilst others have made their name in the RTW sector with hand details, Luciano Lombardi is first and foremost a bespoke shirtmaker and then an outsourcing shirt operations. He has formed many other shirt makers that went on to have a notable career themselves and they still call him "Maestro". Only thing that keep me from using him exclusively is the lead times.

 

I was asking to know because I have heard nice things, so I was curious. Nice to know this time I was told the true by those.

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