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Folded Up Shirt P0rn - Page 307

post #4591 of 4653
But the whole shirt looks machine stitched. It's just a strange order of priorities to add those nubs everywhere on a machine made shirt?
post #4592 of 4653
I guess it's no different than the pick stitching on machine-made jackets. The functional elevated (degenerated?) to the purely decorative.
post #4593 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

I'm sorry, but the pick stitching is too ostentatious for my taste, especially on the placket.

 

Yes, the pick stitching is overdone, but I still like it. For 70 Euros, probably never worn, I won't complain.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by PSNY View Post
 


Who's the maker and what fabric?

 

Finamore, don't know about the fabric.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post


I just don't get it.
the buttonholelooks unfinished.
not sure what is going on with that button. is that a tail?
why so long?
the sleeve placket looks puckered.

i just don't understand the appeal of the nubs. as they are strictly decorative.

I know you're far more knowledgable about making shirts than I'll ever will be. I can't see why the button hole should be unfinnished. They look like every other handmade button hole at Finamore, Salvatore Piccolo or Cesare Attolini shirts I've came accros.

 

The bar tack is located at the 4th button from above. The Italians use them at the end of a seam which is securing the underside of French Plackets from the bottom. Here it is pointless because the seam running all the way from the bottom to the top.

 

 

 

The hole shirts is probably some kind of exhibicion sample, demonstrating what is possible at Finamores MTM program. The pick stitches look more tacky than in reality because of the low lighting.

 

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

But the whole shirt looks machine stitched. It's just a strange order of priorities to add those nubs everywhere on a machine made shirt?

 

I can assure you, the seams of the armholes, yoke, collar and the pick stitching of the placket are hand stitched. Button holes are also handmade. Again, probably an exhibicion sample. It doesn't look more overdone than some shirts at G. Ingleses website.

 

Inside of the collar:

 

Inside of the placket:

 

Inside of the armhole and yoke:

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

I guess it's no different than the pick stitching on machine-made jackets. The functional elevated (degenerated?) to the purely decorative.

I would have prefered a thinner / more discrete thread for the pick stitching - but it's just a fun shirt I'll wear strictly at private ocassions. And at 70 Euros a relativly cheap one, given Finamores prices in German haberdasheries.

post #4594 of 4653
this is a hand buttonhole
Lanvin from the 1980's

you don't see any fabric through the stitches
post #4595 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by bdavro23 View Post
 

Use Firefox.

 

 

Just landed at home for vacation, now got my mac at hand. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by PSNY View Post
 


Who's the maker and what fabric?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bdavro23 View Post
 

Use Firefox.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by PSNY View Post
 


Who's the maker and what fabric?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turner View Post









Nubby pick-stitching everywhere, shirred shoulders, yoke, armholes and cuffs.

 

 

Are several wrong things on that shirt.

 

1st;  On the proper handfinished shirts on Naples, that is where i work and have practised with tons of brands or big names you won´t see one frontal side done by machine and then the other by hand.  This is or a bad attempt to Naples style, or a bad taste comission to what for the brand looks Finamore but i do not see it very well.  Or you get both sides by hand or any, but pickstitched with the so called " invisible  sewing", ( like the one on the shoulder to avoid it being seen, to add subtle elegance to the shirt instead of this ostentation), never is with this " mezzopunto" as per example has to be on the frontal yoke as is indeed on this shirt. This is Pitti like style, non classic.

 

2nd; The " travetto" or bartack where the button is, is so huge that is all by elegant. This is not the way it´s traditionally done. 

 

3rd;  The buttonholes by hand are poor, are fastly made and are faulty of tons of stitches, hence the shirt fabric is seen throught. Bad, very bad.

 

The button seems trocas, not Australian mop as there is no rainbow on the button, but might be as is difficult to picture on a camera.

 

 

 

Finamore is a very good rtw shirt, in fact one of the best, but is poor on bespoke,one of the worst in Naples, as bad that they closed the shop in Naples two weeks ago due that any Neapolitan bought there after everybody knew they are unable to do a good bespoke shirt. Sad, as as i said, their rtw is one of the best.

 

. In fact they did a shirt for me years ago, i was measured by their " master" tailor, and had to be done several times more until i got back. That " shirt" was the laugh of tons of other places as Kiton, when i learnt shirts myself.

 

Also, they charged me 20 euros to do the mezzopunto on the frontal yoke, and other 20 for the arricio on shoulder, this two things i do by default on the shirts i do nowadays at 0 surcharge, ended paying 320 euros for the worst ever shirt i have had. ( Also a shirt that on any non big name would have costed 120 euros and well made)

post #4596 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

this is a hand buttonhole
Lanvin from the 1980's Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


you don't see any fabric through the stitches

Thanks for clarifying. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by SartodiNapoli View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Just landed at home for vacation, now got my mac at hand. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Are several wrong things on that shirt.

 

1st;  On the proper handfinished shirts on Naples, that is where i work and have practised with tons of brands or big names you won´t see one frontal side done by machine and then the other by hand.  This is or a bad attempt to Naples style, or a bad taste comission to what for the brand looks Finamore but i do not see it very well.  Or you get both sides by hand or any, but pickstitched with the so called " invisible  sewing", ( like the one on the shoulder to avoid it being seen, to add subtle elegance to the shirt instead of this ostentation), never is with this " mezzopunto" as per example has to be on the frontal yoke as is indeed on this shirt. This is Pitti like style, non classic.

 

2nd; The " travetto" or bartack where the button is, is so huge that is all by elegant. This is not the way it´s traditionally done. 

 

3rd;  The buttonholes by hand are poor, are fastly made and are faulty of tons of stitches, hence the shirt fabric is seen throught. Bad, very bad.

 

The button seems trocas, not Australian mop as there is no rainbow on the button, but might be as is difficult to picture on a camera.

 

 

 

Finamore is a very good rtw shirt, in fact one of the best, but is poor on bespoke,one of the worst in Naples, as bad that they closed the shop in Naples two weeks ago due that any Neapolitan bought there after everybody knew they are unable to do a good bespoke shirt. Sad, as as i said, their rtw is one of the best.

 

. In fact they did a shirt for me years ago, i was measured by their " master" tailor, and had to be done several times more until i got back. That " shirt" was the laugh of tons of other places as Kiton, when i learnt shirts myself.

 

Also, they charged me 20 euros to do the mezzopunto on the frontal yoke, and other 20 for the arricio on shoulder, this two things i do by default on the shirts i do nowadays at 0 surcharge, ended paying 320 euros for the worst ever shirt i have had. ( Also a shirt that on any non big name would have costed 120 euros and well made)

 

Interesting read, lots to learn from your post. I guess the original customer choose the "raw" work to emphasise the "Händwerkz". The underside of the buttons is a bit colored like on other trocas. The buttons are flatter and bigger than at Finamores RTW shirts. 

post #4597 of 4653
I kinda like that pick stitching satisfied.gif
post #4598 of 4653
Thomas Mason for J. Crew

post #4599 of 4653
A few custom trunk show orders arrived from No Man Walks Alone G. Inglese. Note the hand sewn collar and button holes.









This last one is a pink end-on-end but my lighting wasn't good enough to show the details of the beautiful fabric.
post #4600 of 4653
Are those Inglese shirts bespoke, MTM, or just MTO from a stock size?
post #4601 of 4653
Through NMWA trunk shows they offer a MTO based upon changes to their basic pattern or a Custom option with more handwork. I would recommend contacting NMWA for specific details. In my case we used the body of a larger size and the collar size from a smaller shirt and shorter sleeves. I wear a 16/35
post #4602 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post

Through NMWA trunk shows they offer a MTO based upon changes to their basic pattern or a Custom option with more handwork. I would recommend contacting NMWA for specific details. In my case we used the body of a larger size and the collar size from a smaller shirt and shorter sleeves. I wear a 16/35


What was the price? Those shirts look very beautiful! 

post #4603 of 4653
You should email NMWA for current prices. They gave a trunk show discount last Fall of 15%. There are also different prices for MTO and Custom.
post #4604 of 4653
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post

You should email NMWA for current prices. They gave a trunk show discount last Fall of 15%. There are also different prices for MTO and Custom.


Thanks, never the less, very beautiful shirt! 

post #4605 of 4653
I just organized my shirt section in my closet and had a proud-dad type moment that I felt compelled to share.

I started lurking on SF about 9 months ago as I tried to overhaul my wardrobe. As you can tell from my post count, I have done more lurking and searching than posting (the proper way, instead of posting annoying newbie threads icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif). If I could rewind the clock 1 year, my dress shirt collection would have been all Jos A Bank, polo, and brooks brothers 346, etc.

Thanks to all the solid contributors, information, and even some of the sellers on SF (but mainly eBay) - I've been able to completely cycle out my old I'll-fitting junk with the likes of Hamilton, Zegna, Luciano Barbera, Loro Piana, Canali, etc. that all fit properly.

Not quite folded up shirts, but here's what I've got in my closet now without a single one of the shirts I owned last year.



I didn't even know what mother of pearl buttons were a year ago lol
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