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Folded Up Shirt P0rn - Page 280

post #4186 of 4521
that is a beautiful stripe.
post #4187 of 4521
My first shirt from Mary Frittolini. Cloth is Thomas Mason linen + cotton mix.





Andrey
post #4188 of 4521

How is the fit?

post #4189 of 4521
Does Mary speak English? I'm planning to be in Milan next year and wondering if I should make a trip to Turin. Her shirts are the closest I've seen to the old Lanvin.

Andrey do you have a picture of the armpit area of the shirt? The Lanvin shirts I've seem have a staggered seam at the armpit to avoid the little knot of cloth.
Edited by poorsod - 6/29/13 at 8:25am
post #4190 of 4521
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

How is the fit?

I have just received the shirt today. Let me reserve my judgment for a later date, after wearing / washing the shirt at least a couple of times -- to be able to objectively compare it with my other bespoke shirts.

If there is an interest, I can make and post a picture in MF thread.

Andrey
post #4191 of 4521
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Does Mary speak English?

That's puzzling.

On the one hand, her written English is excellent -- better than mine. Never had a mis-communication issue in several e-mails (all written in English).

On the other, she has great problems with spoken English. She seems to understand what you say well, but can't express what she wants to say. When we met, Pieree Duboin (who speaks a workable English) was present, and we communicated with his help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Andrey do you have a picture of the armpit area of the shirt? The Lanvin shirts I've seem have a staggered seam at the armpit to avoid the little knot of cloth.

Is this what you mean?



Sorry for the crap picture -- but basically line of stitching on the arm continues with line of folded cloth on shirt body. Line of stitching on the body is away by mere millimeters.

Is this how Lanvin shirts were made?

Andrey
post #4192 of 4521
I think Poorsod means this:

8xyQIkc.jpg
post #4193 of 4521
Quote:
Originally Posted by NOBD View Post

I think Poorsod means this:

8xyQIkc.jpg

Yes. The old Lanvin shirts that I saw had this type of staggered seams at the armpit.

The pleated sleeves and buttons from Mary Frittolini's shirt looks very much like the old Lanvin shirts I've seen.
post #4194 of 4521


When you connect green and red arrows' tips, that's where seams are placed on Mary's shirt. As I said, "stitching" part of one seam connects with "folding" part of another.

I don't know if it is any better or worse (or matters at all) than the approach used in NOBD's example.

Andrey
Edited by andreyb2 - 6/29/13 at 5:45pm
post #4195 of 4521
Quote:
Originally Posted by andreyb2 View Post


If there is an interest, I can make and post a picture in MF thread.

Andrey

That would be much appreciated - thanks.

post #4196 of 4521
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Does Mary speak English? I'm planning to be in Milan next year and wondering if I should make a trip to Turin. Her shirts are the closest I've seen to the old Lanvin.

Andrey do you have a picture of the armpit area of the shirt? The Lanvin shirts I've seem have a staggered seam at the armpit to avoid the little knot of cloth.

Charvet as well as virtually every Neapolitan shirtmaker I have seen have staggered seam as you called them. as I understand this is not done because of the bouncing cloth but first it means that the sleeves have been attached to the closed body and second it reflects that the body side seams centre needs to be slightly behind the sleeve seam centre.

Do all MF shirts have back pleats? Charvet do not, or at least the many Charvet I have seen don't. I find them unnecessary and strange on a bespoke shirt.
post #4197 of 4521
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post

Do all MF shirts have back pleats? Charvet do not, or at least the many Charvet I have seen don't. I find them unnecessary and strange on a bespoke shirt.

My shirt has two darts on the back, no pleats. As I understand, Mary adheres to Pierre Duboin's school of thought on this matter:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierre Duboin 
The majority of shirts I’ve made have darted backs.

I’ve said it before but I’ll say it again: a darted back is an incredibly useful little trick. Its principal function is to follow the contours of the small of the back over the kidneys. The deeper one’s small of the back the wider the darts. Secondly, darts give the wearer a more athletic appearance from the back by tapering the shape of the torso. From the front… it may be a different matter, sometimes completely different. If a customer is very strong but with a large belly, it goes without saying that he will likely hold himself with a “forward stomach”. In that case, the small of the back will be that much more contoured. If the shirtmaker works au quart, that is, so that the width of the front and the back pieces of the shirt are the same, inevitably there will be enough cloth for the front of the wearer's shirt but much too much in the back, which is not useful. To me, the only way to give the wearer a good figure in that case, rather than a completely round one, is to dart the shirt to the fullest extent possible.

Andrey
post #4198 of 4521
NAaoDwO.jpg
post #4199 of 4521
NOBD
I find bias split yoke on a large gingham shirt to be very distracting
post #4200 of 4521
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

NOBD
I find bias split yoke on a large gingham shirt to be very distracting

I also have a large gingham shirt with a 'bias split yoke'. I understand that sometimes sportcoats with large patterns can have a bias cut into the area above the pockets, supposedly to better follow the curve of one's body around the midsection.

 

Is there a similar such purpose for shirts, i.e. to follow the curve of one's back/shoulders?

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