I just read a topic on fused/unfused, lined/unlined collars and cuffs and would like to visiualize to myself what I have learned.
I think unlined collars are very rare and there are collars which are obviously fused or unfused even to my eyes, but what are those two seen above?
Unfused but soft/medium interlined or single fused?
Also, does there exist a catalog of Thomas Mason fabrics? Maybe as PDF?
I get a shirt made of "Thomas Mason Oxford 75 7M36072 12D" and would like to know all its specifications.
I think I may have recently claimed that these are the only Italian shirts I've seen that were unfused (AFAIK Anna Matuozzo makes an unfused shirt, but apart from pics on here I've never seen any of those), but it turns out I was wrong.
One of my Salvatore Piccolo shirts (a chambray one) and a Barba Dandylife one have unfused cuffs and leaf (the collar part that folds over), but a fused collar band. In contrast, everything on the VdR shirts above are unfused. I'm not sure if it shows up in the pics, but there's a zig zag stitching along the collar band to keep the interlining in place and add a little structure I assume, in lieu of the fusing.
I think I may have recently claimed that these are the only Italian shirts I've seen that were unfused (AFAIK Anna Matuozzo makes an unfused shirt, but apart from pics on here I've never seen any of those), but it turns out I was wrong.
One of my Salvatore Piccolo shirts (a chambray one) and a Barba Dandylife one have unfused cuffs and leaf (the collar part that folds over), but a fused collar band. In contrast, everything on the VdR shirts above are unfused. I'm not sure if it shows up in the pics, but there's a zig zag stitching along the collar band to keep the interlining in place and add a little structure I assume, in lieu of the fusing.
Thanks!
As I assume you have experience with all kind of different types of shirts, what would you recommend to me?
Unfused cuffs and collar leaf but a fused band or is the zig zag stitching more comfortable?
I'm sure there are many here with much more experience with these things than me, but what I've found is that the softness of the interlining has more impact on comfort than fused vs unfused. I have fused Italian shirts that are softer than some English unfused ones, even though a soft interlining was specified for those. And depending on application, the softest possible may not be what you're after: I shared some drinks with Butler recently who wore a shirt with a detachable starched collar, for an extra crisp look.
What I would recommend is giving some thought to what level of formality you're after, and then trying a few different shirts to see which suits you with regards to both comfort and aesthetics.
I'm sure there are many here with much more experience with these things than me, but what I've found is that the softness of the interlining has more impact on comfort than fused vs unfused. I have fused Italian shirts that are softer than some English unfused ones, even though a soft interlining was specified for those. And depending on application, the softest possible may not be what you're after: I shared some drinks with Butler recently who wore a shirt with a detachable starched collar, for an extra crisp look.
What I would recommend is giving some thought to what level of formality you're after, and then trying a few different shirts to see which suits you with regards to both comfort and aesthetics.
It has been my experience that apart from the highly personal aesthetics question, the comfort ditto, obviously is a non issue if the fit is good. This ,however, may mean bespoke!