Folded Up Shirt Appreciation

Kuro · Feb 7, 2008

Originally Posted by the etruscan

Experience may vary person to person, but I was able to specify collar length, width and shape, arm length, body length, and general diameter.

Specifying higher armholes, smaller sleeves, larger cuffs, or changes to body shape beyond general diameter were turned down as "this is not grand-mesure, sorry we don't do that on demi-mesure." My saleswoman was very friendly and helpful, but the demi-mesure experience was quite limited for me.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

This is more than they'll let you do at Bergdorf. You can't pick the length of the collar points and you're stuck to stock body sizes within a certain range of your neck size.

I don't know unless you are talking about changes to a stock collar as opposed to picking a particular collar, this sounds exactly like what I do at Bergdorf. Pick the fabric, collar, and cuff, they measure your arm and then you can request slight changes to the body length and diameter. The collar selections on display are limited, but they'll order whatever collar you want (if you know which one you want). Of course, fabric selection is just a fraction of Paris. Nice order by the way. Also, M. Colban is supposed to be coming in March with new swatches.

voxsartoria · Feb 7, 2008

Originally Posted by iammatt

I don't think their shirts are really all that overpriced.

While it is a bit ambiguous to judge value, the RTW Charvet shirts that I bought at the Paris store over ten years ago have proven to be the most durable of any brand that I have owned. AK pushes this concept of cost per wearing, and I am not surprised that he cites Charvet as a maker he respects.

I just wish I had more than one trip upcoming so I could swing the grand-mÃ

sure.

At $500/shirt, though, for demi-mÃ

sure, we are nearing Kabbaz territory...(unless he's quintupled his prices again

).

- B

RJman · Feb 7, 2008

If you have the time in Paris -- i.e. if you're here for a few months or if you pass through frequently -- I'd recommend going full bespoke as it's not a whole lot more than that.

jamesbond · Feb 7, 2008

Originally Posted by RJman

If you have the time in Paris -- i.e. if you're here for a few months or if you pass through frequently -- I'd recommend going full bespoke as it's not a whole lot more than that.

Why is such a long stay needed for full bespoke? I take it they have to produce a sample shirt for you to try on and then tweak, correct? Will they not producd this shirt within a week or so if needed?

the etruscan · Feb 7, 2008

Originally Posted by jamesbond

Why is such a long stay needed for full bespoke? I take it they have to produce a sample shirt for you to try on and then tweak, correct? Will they not producd this shirt within a week or so if needed?

No, they will not. They require two weeks between. This is something they are not flexible about.

RJman · Feb 8, 2008

Originally Posted by the etruscan

No, they will not. They require two weeks between. This is something they are not flexible about.
In any event, once they tweak the sample shirt, they then produce the shirt you ordered after about a month or so. They'll check its fit at the time you pick it up but also ask you to wear it and wash it several times and then to return so they can make other adjustments, if needed. I think this is essential as well.

Lanvin is faster but considerably more expensive...

Mustapha · Feb 11, 2008

Another couple of new ones from Trend Custom of Toronto.

Best,

-Moose

Kent Wang · Feb 11, 2008

Are those blue buttons MOP or plastic?

globetrotter · Feb 11, 2008

Originally Posted by Mustapha

Another couple of new ones from Trend Custom of Toronto.

Best,

-Moose

I love the fabric on the blue and white striped one. do you know anything about it? maker, etc?

Mustapha · Feb 11, 2008

Originally Posted by Kent Wang

Are those blue buttons MOP or plastic?

Hello Kent, I don't know the answer to your question, sorry. I'll find out.

-Moose

Mustapha · Feb 12, 2008

Originally Posted by Mustapha

Hello Kent, I don't know the answer to your question, sorry. I'll find out.

-Moose

Paging Kent:

Kent,

I can't get a hold of my shirtmaker but I looked at pictures of 'MOP' buttons online and I don't think mine are. First: all the pictures I've seen show white buttons. My shirtmaker usually uses colored ones. So I would say they are not MOP.

The buttons are also very thick. Here is an example pic. Several people - in person - have commented on this.

-Moose

RJman · Feb 12, 2008

MOP can be dyed any color. It can also be very thick.

However, are your buttons cool/cold to the touch, or are they warm? If the latter, they are probably plastic. If they're cool, they may be MOP.

Mustapha · Feb 12, 2008

The fabric on the the left I chose from a swatch book - 'Shirtex - Montreal'.

I found their website.

http://www.uswshirtex.com/

Sorry, I realize this is the supplier and not the mill/maker, but that's all I know.

Best,

-Moose

Mustapha · Feb 12, 2008

Originally Posted by RJman

MOP can be dyed any color. It can also be very thick.

However, are your buttons cool/cold to the touch, or are they warm? If the latter, they are probably plastic. If they're cool, they may be MOP.

I did your test. Warm. <Breaking news - my shirtmaker tells me they are not MOP>

globetrotter · Feb 12, 2008

Originally Posted by Mustapha

The fabric on the the left I chose from a swatch book - 'Shirtex - Montreal'.

I found their website.

http://www.uswshirtex.com/

Sorry, I realize this is the supplier and not the mill/maker, but that's all I know.

Best,

-Moose

thanks

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