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NEW TAILOR BESPOKE NAPLES - Page 19

post #271 of 305

Maresca with Pirozzi:

 

 

 

In Naples were many sartorial schools; unfortunately now seems that only the Attolini "ultrasoft" school is remembered.

Pirozzi is one of exponents of structurate school (structurate but very comfortable).

Here a 1962 Neapolitan double breasted of Sartoria Miglio:

 

 

 

In my opinion very clean and proportionate (i dislike huge,square, lapels).

post #272 of 305
Talking about Mr. Maresca, just phoned him to meet and told me his father has passed away today. Please pray for his soul. thank you
post #273 of 305
Thread Starter 

 

And here is another bespoke double-breasted coat with martingale and fold back Pirozzi. It did for a friend of mine and I find it really elegant. And you? What do you think?

I love you so much that cut lapels. In the fall I will make one of the same model. But with a vintage plaid cashmere from 850 gr. If I can also show you the fabric.

 

 

 

post #274 of 305
I think this is your best commision by far as i like classic style but i would have commissioned it without the strange side pockett to be more elegant. The pignata shape and tap is a bit rare omho. Is not too heavy for Milan?
post #275 of 305
That overcoat is really beautiful, though I agree that the shape of the out hip pockets are a drop too stylized. A little squarer and less round would be better. But it is still very very nice. I like it a lot.
Do you have photos of the back?
post #276 of 305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

That overcoat is really beautiful, though I agree that the shape of the out hip pockets are a drop too stylized. A little squarer and less round would be better. But it is still very very nice. I like it a lot.
Do you have photos of the back?

Thank you very much for your kind words. I also really like that coat. I do not know if I have pictures of the back. But it was like the camel that had shown some time ago.

I do not understand how you would have done the pockets. You would have done the normal? Do not apply, right?

Today photographer in vintage cashmere coat that I will give to Pirozzi next week. I'll be curious to know what you think and what you think. It weighs 850 grams.

post #277 of 305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gianni Cerutti View Post

...

I do not understand how you would have done the pockets. You would have done the normal? Do not apply, right?
...
no. Patch pockets (applied) are correct and look nice for this style. But the shape of these is too round and aggressive. Top of pocket is narrower than the bottom of the pocket and the bottom is too round.
post #278 of 305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post


no. Patch pockets (applied) are correct and look nice for this style. But the shape of these is too round and aggressive. Top of pocket is narrower than the bottom of the pocket and the bottom is too round.

Ah ok ... now I understand ... you're right on the pockets. But you're in luck because I found the pictures of the back, just like you asked.

What do you think?

 

 

 

 

post #279 of 305
Beautiful! Thank you
post #280 of 305
Even i personally don't like for nowadays the Martingala, the back adjuster, i think goes perfect on this style of coat.
post #281 of 305
Thread Starter 

 

 

And here's my next double-breasted coat Pirozzi. It is an old English wool I found at Old draper of Milan.

One can decide which side to use. I chose the paintings as the outside. While the lapels let them brown, as the inside.

What do you think?

 

 


is a good idea?

 

I weigh more than 700 grams. Is so old that they failed to tell me that it was done. For me it has more than 40 years, this tissue. In fact, I found a similar fabric in an old newspaper of Italian elegance in 1950.
 
 
post #282 of 305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gianni Cerutti View Post
 

 

 

 

It is an old English wool I found at Old draper of Milan.

One can decide which side to use. I chose the paintings as the outside. While the lapels let them brown, as the inside.

 

I weigh more than 700 grams. Is so old that they failed to tell me that it was done. For me it has more than 40 years, this tissue. In fact, I found a similar fabric in an old newspaper of Italian elegance in 1950.
 
 

 

Tissue does not mean 'tessuto' in English.  The correct term for this type of cloth is a 'double-sided' cloth.  You are going to have the fancy or patterned side made up and the lapels the plain side.

post #283 of 305
Quote:
Originally Posted by mactire View Post

Tissue does not mean 'tessuto' in English.  The correct term for this type of cloth is a 'double-sided' cloth.  You are going to have the fancy or patterned side made up and the lapels the plain side.

Excellent inglese
I find
it very dandy
Thank you for everything
my friend-customer

always at your disposal
complimenti
post #284 of 305
Thread Starter 

 

And here's my look by Pirozzi trunk show in London. Obviously, tie and pocket square-I got them =). The fabric is vintage gown. He has more than 40 years of life on your shoulders!

post #285 of 305
Thread Starter 

 

And here's the latest phases of my jacket vintage bespoke Pirozzi. He's doing his shoulders sagged in his shirt. And while he was withdrawing his jacket I also photographed this double-breasted 4x1 Irish linen.

 

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