NEW TAILOR BESPOKE NAPLES

marcodalondra said:

Evidence was posted about Gianni behaviour with tailors and shoemakers, but removed by the poster not to damage the third party I guess. GC was not Pirozzi client before this internet campaign and his blog, so there was no favour to a friend as you put it. The thread not having much traction does not matter once one or two people have already ordered (early on in the thread). As he kept asking the tailor for free CMT, he is assuring him that he will be posting it as advertisement. It is blatant, come on, especially after he disappear from this site because of being found out on his dodgy tie business.

If he had been a long term client of Mr Pirozzi, as it is often the case in Italy with your barber, tailor, corner shop etc that you have patron for years, it would be part of the culture to recommend them to others

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marcodalondra said:

Evidence was posted about Gianni behaviour with tailors and shoemakers, but removed by the poster not to damage the third party I guess. GC was not Pirozzi client before this internet campaign and his blog, so there was no favour to a friend as you put it. The thread not having much traction does not matter once one or two people have already ordered (early on in the thread). As he kept asking the tailor for free CMT, he is assuring him that he will be posting it as advertisement. It is blatant, come on, especially after he disappear from this site because of being found out on his dodgy tie business.

If he had been a long term client of Mr Pirozzi, as it is often the case in Italy with your barber, tailor, corner shop etc that you have patron for years, it would be part of the culture to recommend them to others

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marcodalondra said:

I Appreciate your counter arguments but there was already enough cover of neapolitan tailors and their price competitiveness before on the interweb, if you wanted to search.

I keep promising myself to do a long write up on Neapolitan tailoring and how misinterpreted teh situation is on this and other forum.

In a nut shell:
-Neapolitan tailoring has been famous within Italy since the unification of Italy (1860) and by the end of the century, name like sartoria Caggiula and others were considered the best of the best.
- In early 1900s international clientele, travelling to what remained of the gran tour, and visiting the early holiday destinations of Sorrento, Capri, etc., started appreciating the city tailors and ordering from them, also thanks to the incredibly competitive pricing.
-During the 1950's, Neapolitan tailors stole completely the scene of the first menswear events hosted in Sanremo ( think Pitti Uomo but only for traditional tailors/sartoria) : By now, Schiraldi, Blasi and few others were already know worldwide, counting the original billionaires amongst their clientele (think Onassis). Again, un underling factors to the rise of the industry, even within Italian politicians from all regions but getting garments made in Naples, was the incredible competitive price. Rubinacci and his tailor Attolini were not better known than the ones I just mentioned.
-Neapolitan tailoring has always been softer thanks to the canvasses and general construction of the jacket, leaving aside the shoulders as only evidence of "soft construction", I can look easily at pictures of family members going back to 1890 and earlier, to clearly see that. There is already debate about what Attolini real contribution has actually been, but undoubtedly he may have taken elements of what was then made in Naples and further worked on some details. In any case, him and his employer came to be known for the soft look, but if one really look into it, the early examples were simply spring/summer wear, so winter garments may have still looked like the rest of what people was making and wearing in Naples.

Now, as you keep being a bit naive, you have to fundamentally understand that business transaction and relationship in Italy are not the same as in the Anglo speaking world.

I have made this example before, but again, I once bought a pair of cufflinks at the Bulgari boutique in Via Filangieri in Naples as a present to a relative of mine. They had a price tag that was in line (taking into account exchange rate) to what I had paid few months earlier for a similar pair at the Bulgari boutique within Selfridges in London.
When i went to the cashier, having not asked about anything, I was informed that they could apply a 10% discount to make it more inviting...
It is also very common to ask for discounts in regular local shops, and/or for the owner to offer you one when making multiple purchases. I know for a fact that some people I introduced to tailor/shirtmakers, even by not being locals, paid less than I do per garment because they made a large multiple purchase per order, vs the one or two at the time I normally do. I understand that and will not take it back to the tailor/shirtmaker. At the end of the day, they do save time and labour money buy cutting multiple jackets / shirts for the same client at once.

Finally, once more, I Pirozzi does not need GC indeed, but as others have been demonstrated, has been clearly conning him as well... If you think that his thriving tie business made him so much disposable income that he could afford suddenly a bespoke wardrobe, then there is no matter of explanation or proof to make you believe otherwise.

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