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What to do about suit and sport jackets not fitting the naval properly? - Page 2

post #16 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by mixedmajik View Post
 

Yes I will do that. I was using a belt even to bring the pants up but was not doing much. I just wanted to ask...in a style sense, how much of a faux pas would it seem to you if you saw someone with this kind of issue (naval shirt showing)? Would it appear to ruin the outfit as much as I think it does or is it really not something of significant note?

It's a problem, but not a disaster. It shows you buy OTR suits, but it's not nearly so big a problem as a too-short jacket or a collar gap.

post #17 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post

It's a problem, but not a disaster. It shows you buy OTR suits, but it's not nearly so big a problem as a too-short jacket or a collar gap.

One of the forum bespoke darlings at the moment, Liverano, has a house cut that features very open quarters and tends to exhibit this effect. I am beginning to believe that this has simply become a matter of some people's taste rather than the outright problem that others would lead you to believe it is.
post #18 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by mixedmajik View Post
 

Would it appear to ruin the outfit as much as I think it does or is it really not something of significant note?

If you think it does, it does.  To me, it looks like this:

On the other hand, if you can't afford to do anything about it, there's plenty of evidence that it's a fashionable look, so you shouldn't feel too self-conscious about it.  It's your call.

post #19 of 25

Thank you for sharing I have also want to ask this ?

post #20 of 25

The buttoning point and trouser rise seem to be the result of modern styling. Most of the vintage clothes I've found have the 2 joining around the same area so that the shirt does not show underneath when the jacket is button. See Gary Cooper's jackets below for reference.

 

 

 

 

post #21 of 25
Great pics!

The issue, as some have mentioned and as is neatly illustrated in these photos, is the rise of the trousers. The jacket should button and the pants waist should both locate approximately at the navel. The shirt/tie would then be covered by the jacket, even with open quarters, hands in pockets, etc.

While many modern jackets do have a buttoning point slightly higher than the navel, it is the low-rise trousers that allow exposure of the shirt.
post #22 of 25
Thread Starter 

Lots of great responses guys. Ballmouse what you show in those picutures is exactly what I prefer...feels a little odd that I as a student in my younger years am an advocate for that ancient time style and dislike the apparently modern style that my agegroup must prefer these days.

 

Justaguy....well harder to not be self-conscious about it when you're posting pictures like that haha. I see your point though.

 

Modern styling + the trend of lower rise pants + some popular media celebrities of today I would say are the conclusions we've come to about why the open quarters are looking like this more and more. On top of that...not much a tailor can do about it and it's really not as faux pas as I thought.

 

Richard it's reassuring to know other people were wondering about this. I've learned a lot here that I wish I'd known before.

post #23 of 25
Thread Starter 

Just letting you guys know Antonio Centeno put up a great video today about this. I'm subscribed to the guy but dang I wish he had put this up a month ago before I bought my most recent 3rd jacket. Almost seems sticky worthy for noobs...is there a better place to put this? Do you guys agree with what he's saying? Any extra steps I should be taking when considering my next jacket besides the doing better homework on the quarters? To be honest I think I will use different pants next time just to make sure. The thing Antonio mentioned about the arms is something I didn't realize that probably would have given me a good indication that the jacket wasn't going to go long enough for me. Granted my arms are extremely long but these jackets I have are not even going past my wrist...granted like I said my natural proportions are not normal.

  

post #24 of 25
This video is a good primer for a noob -- I'll give you that. But it doesn't directly address the 'exposed waist' issue that we're discussing here. You can very easily find a jacket that is a good fit given all of the criteria outlined in the video -- including a lack of the 'dreaded X' -- yet still allows for an exposed waist.
post #25 of 25
Thread Starter 
True thats why i thought there was probably a more beneficial place to have put it. I honestly do think my jackets fit well otr like you alluded to in every respect other than this exposed naval triangle which is a shame.
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