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What to do about suit and sport jackets not fitting the naval properly?

post #1 of 25
Thread Starter 

Hey guys,

 

I must be doing something wrong because a) I'm a skinny 135 pound 5'7 university student, b) my torso is extremely short,

 

So how can it be that my 36r (in one brand) and 38r in my other brands of suits are not extending long enough in the naval area? This picture isn't me but it sort of has a little bit of what I have and I can draw focus to the area easily with the circle I added:

 

 

 

Okay so...for me, this target area is parted too far to the point where you can see my dress shirt when I'm walking or at some angles  when I'm standing still...I'm not fat and my torso is not long...so I don't understand what's up. 38r fits very well in the shoulders and my arms are very long for my size (73' wingspan or whatever) so the arms fit well in most cases, not all. So with the shoulder and chest matching nicely in the 38/36, the length of the jacket is annoying me and I don't know why that part of the jacket isn't coming together.

 

Is this how a suit jacket/sport jacket is supposed to fit? I feel uncomfortable with that area showing since it stands out like a white spot in a very otherwised streamlined look. Sometimes I feel like I'd rather just unbutton and not worry about it but it just doesn't feel clean to do this.

 

My first idea was that maybe the button isn't placed well because my torso is short so it doesn't measure up well with where the button is...but I have 3 jackets and all have this issue so it can't be that. I'm not going bespoke. I'm a student who's most expensive jacket is only worth 200 dollars. I assume a tailor can't lengthen a jacket since they can't magically generate matching fabric to do so...don't really understand why the length of all things is the issue when I'm short haha. Please let me know what's up with this and how I can combat this. Sizing up won't work because then the shoulders and chest don't fit well, too baggy. :(

post #2 of 25

Without seeing a picture of you in your coat(s), there could be any number of reasons for it.

 

There are three solutions.  You can leave the coat unbuttoned, as you've mentioned.  You can fasten the bottom button, which most people will tell you is wrong, but it's only really wrong if doing this obviously spoils the way that the coat hangs.  President Kennedy used to do it often.  You can buy a new coat and check that it doesn't do this before you buy it.

post #3 of 25
Welcome to the current RTW trend: short jackets. You'll be hard pressed to find something which doesn't follow this for your price range, but it's worth it to fight the good fight. Figure out your measurements (particularly length and shoulders) and start looking through eBay. Or save up a bit and head to Brooks Brothers (with the exception of Black Fleece, they've avoided the too short jacket look).

And many jackets will include extra fabric so that a tailor can lengthen an inch or so or close the quarters
post #4 of 25

Your problem deals with what is called the quarters of your jacket. Many things can contribute to this including, but not limited to: trousers' rise is too low, buttoning point too high, jacket too short, waist too tight. I'm assuming based on your demographics and budget, it's a combination of all four. Pictures will be needed to address your specific problem. 

post #5 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywhyy View Post
 I'm assuming based on your demographics and budget, it's a combination of all four.

 

That sounds a bit condescending.

 

What about this?  This is apparently Brooks Brothers' fullest fit, and it looks a bit shabby to me, for two and a half large.

post #6 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Just a guy View Post
 

 

That sounds a bit condescending.

 

What about this?  This is apparently Brooks Brothers' fullest fit, and it looks a bit shabby to me, for two and a half large.

 

Was not meant to be. I'm a student on a budget as well, and tailored clothing advertised to our demographic and price range for the most part are low rise, high button point, and skinny lapel. That suit looks short to me in sleeve and length. 

post #7 of 25

Looks to me like it could use a press, as well.  My point was, in terms of "demographic", this is apparently the most conservative offering on Brooks Brothers' website at present, and in terms of budget, like I said, it's two and a half  large, but it has the same open fronts as the picture above.  So maybe it's a thing now.

post #8 of 25
Run a few searches on "closed quarters," "exposed waist," and "covered waist." Long/short: this is primarily due to the quarters of the jacket being cut open and the jacket being worn with low-rise trousers. While the look of exposed shirt and tie at the waist is certainly not a classic—and indeed many such as Flusser have a problem with it—it isn't necessarily a problem per se, either. This is simply the way many modern suits are styled. If you dislike this look, you cantry to find a suit with closed quarters, and/or one with higher-rise trousers, although this will be rather difficult at a low price point. A higher-quality MTM program can address this in the manner that I presume you'd like best, which is to close the jacket quarters enough to prevent the visible waist, yet allow you to still wear the lower-rise trousers than most men under the age of ~40 find comfortable.
post #9 of 25
Thread Starter 

Thanks guys, will definitely try and see if they can lengthen the quarters and such.  I can't believe this is a trendy/normal thing for jackets of today. Looks terrible in my opinion. With the bottom button done it looks well in the sense of covers up the navel but it just isn't right to do the double button I feel. Also I'll check out the BB later, I can't justify buying a 4th jacket after failing 3 times...only so much money I can throw away. I'll try to work with what I have and take the jackets to the tailor. I'll ask them to extend the quarter and fit it to me more sharply I guess? Strange trend...

post #10 of 25
There is no alteration to correct this and what can be done is not cost effective.
The issue is how the jacket is cut at the shoulder. Look at a sheet of paper and picture the paper as one of your jacket fronts. Hold down the point of the paper where your button would be and move the upper left hand corner to the left 1/2". Notice how the bottom of the paper shifts in the other direction? This is what opens the fronts below the first button. Shift the upper right hand corner to the right and it shifts the bottom inwards and would close the gap below the button.

Jackets are cut this way because it benefits the overall fit in RTW.

If a tailor opened the shoulder and straightened the jacket by shifting the shoulders you would see some change but maybe not 100% of what you want. This is very expensive and effects many other aspects of the jacket so I don't advise it.

The issue could be about your posture too. Try on a lot if different jackets from other makers and see if you find what you want
post #11 of 25
Thread Starter 

Thanks Despos,

 

So the notion of quarters is actually not as applicable to this issue as we think? Maybe there is some extra fabric in the jacket to lengthen it though like someone else mentioned...perhaps i can ask them to place the button elsewhere? As for me...like I said the shoulders and chest fit nicely, the length just doesn't. Your paper analogy makes sense, maybe it's the brand...but I've tried 3 now that are budget jackets for slim fit people (Mexx, Attitude, and some asian brand...yes i know not great brands) and no dice. Most brands are not form fitting and make me look a box moreso than a V shape which I have. 

 

Speaking of modern trends contributing to this problem I find myself in constantly, I'm starting to think to those who said this is the new contermporary style that this idiot is to blame. I noticed in the last james bond movie that all his suits were "X"ing in the midsection and the naval shows the shirt underneath (the second picture looks exactly like what I'm dealing with [I don't have an X though thank God]). The fit just doesn't look proper but still now so many suits and sport coats are cutting it like this it seems. To be honest, he dressed so much better in the previous movies.

 

post #12 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by mixedmajik View Post

Thanks Despos,

So the notion of quarters is actually not as applicable to this issue as we think? Maybe there is some extra fabric in the jacket to lengthen it though like someone else mentioned...perhaps i can ask them to place the button elsewhere? As for me...like I said the shoulders and chest fit nicely, the length just doesn't. Your paper analogy makes sense, maybe it's the brand...but I've tried 3 now that are budget jackets for slim fit people (Mexx, Attitude, and some asian brand...yes i know not great brands) and no dice. Most brands are not form fitting and make me look a box moreso than a V shape which I have. 

That's just the way that jacket is cut and you can't alter it. It is extremely unlikely that there is enough fabric to lengthen the jacket, and even if you could, that wouldnt change the open quarters. Moving the button is not really an option either--there is literally a hole cut in the fabric for the buttonhole, you can't move that.

If you don't like the open quarters, you will have to find a brand that cuts their jackets differently.

For what it's worth, many people like moderately open quarters. These are maybe a bit much, but part of that is the low rise on the trousers causing your shirt to show.
post #13 of 25
Thread Starter 

Hmmm yes I guess maybe it's a look I'll have to grow accustomed to. Still don't really understand the appeal for it but clearly it's trending. I'll probably look for different cuts in the future but I guess I'll have to manage for now. 

 

My suggestion for the button was that maybe the tailor removes the button, stitches the hole shut, and pokes a hole somewhere else to thread the button. In retrospect, the cost to tailor may end up being more than the jackets are really worth  with these kind of ideas.

 

I'll probably also have to get to grips with unbuttoning a bit more freely. Normally i only unbuttoned when sitting down but honestly, I'm being too difficult with this. I'm better dressed than most people on campus so I don't know why I'm stressing so much.


Edited by mixedmajik - 9/24/13 at 3:15pm
post #14 of 25

You can't stitch a buttonhole shut. The best solution is to look for trousers with a higher rise.

post #15 of 25
Thread Starter 

Yes I will do that. I was using a belt even to bring the pants up but was not doing much. I just wanted to ask...in a style sense, how much of a faux pas would it seem to you if you saw someone with this kind of issue (naval shirt showing)? Would it appear to ruin the outfit as much as I think it does or is it really not something of significant note?

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