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Moda Republic - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 4

post #46 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by catside View Post

POW pattern, worsted wool, 3 piece with natural shoulders, lapel vest. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Will see regular rotation use, academic work.

 

A beautiful and classic ensemble. Would you also want the lapelled vest with just as many buttons or a vest with a lower stance? 

post #47 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-ModaR View Post
 

Hi guys,

 

I’d like to get things rolling in this thread and get some discussion started by announcing a lucky draw that we’d like to offer to the members of Styleforum. We’d like to offer a half canvas suit for free to one lucky member and entry into the competition is simply posting your ideal suit on this thread. The deadline will be a little more than a month from now (Oct  31, 2013) and we’d also love to see the feedback users here will give other folks on their designs. As a sign of appreciation, we would like to provide some free shirts to the suit design our team decides is second best as well as a gift to users that are active in discussions on our affiliate thread.

 

The format for entering the competition should be:

1. Specifications of the suit such as the cutting, the type of shoulders (natural or more structured), color of the fabric, lapel width, how many buttons, pocket styles, etc.

2. A reference photo or two so the folks here can get an idea of what you’re thinking of

3. What occasion you have in mind for the suit, your own wedding? A friend’s wedding? Everyday work? Graduation? Prom? Starting a new job? A special event coming up? Let us know to get us excited for your suit!

 

So what happens after we pick the winner?


We’ll work with the winner to either let them choose from one of the suit fabrics that is already on our website (if it matches close enough to their ideal suit), or the winner can utilize our Find A Fabric service where we’ll help them find a fabric they like. Also if you win but you’re worried about measuring yourself you can use our virtual tailor service to video conference our team for measurement guidance.

 

Let's get this started and we look forward to seeing what people have in mind!

Hey guys! Welcome to SF. It looks like you are putting out some great stuff.

This is a great idea. I'm all excited to design my dream suit now. Okay, here goes: 

Fall and Winter are my favourite seasons, so I adore flannel. The fabric for my suit would be a medium weight flannel in chocolate brown, with a light brown loud chalk windowpane check. I love chalk windowpane. The jacket would be constructed with a more traditional English cut: structured, slightly roped shoulders, suppressed waist, stiff canvas in the lapels for a generous roll, and a structured chest. It would have a six-on-two double breasted button configuration, with peak lapels, hacking flapped pockets and ticket pocket, and side vents. The lapels would be 3.5 inches wide, a little on the wide side. With a functional boutonniere, of course. I would have five functional buttons on each sleeve. 

 

For the trousers, I would like flat front with a fairly high rise. They should be very tapered with a crisp, single break about an inch above the 1.5 inch cuff. I would prefer a button fly, split-V waist, and brace buttons too.

Here are a couple pictures to kind of get the idea:

Overall I would want it to look a lot like this.

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90

Here is another close one:

I would prefer a little heavier flannel than this one, though. And I'd want the check to be more chalky.

 

Anyways, in my opinion this is the ultimate cold weather suit. I would wear it for almost any occasion. Work, a stroll, just hanging out, anything. 

Thanks guys, and best of luck to Moda Republic!

post #48 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Hugh Laurie. The man has earned the right to be called by his name. A Little Bit of Fry and Laurie was pure genius. :tounge: 

A truer word has never been said.

post #49 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-ModaR View Post

A beautiful and classic ensemble. Would you also want the lapelled vest with just as many buttons or a vest with a lower stance? 

Definitely with as many buttons. However, i agree with other posters that lapels need to be touch wider.
post #50 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-ModaR View Post
 

Glenn Plaid is another favorite of mine. I appreciate how subtle the fabric is! I find it interesting you specifically listed that you don't want surgeon cuffs! I understand that a lot of people usually don't want surgeon cuffs on their first suit especially if it's being done over the internet, but is there another reason why you specifically requested no surgeon cuffs? Always good to learn more about other people's choices! 

 

It is indeed interesting to see how everyone on StyleForum heavily favors a wider lapel!

 

I've never felt a need for it, Chris. I'm sure it looks nice, and I know there are those that have contrast stitching on the last buttonhole, but Surgeon Cuff's have always seemed contrived to me(at least for the reasons most of listed as to why he wanted them). Plus, if the sleeve length is off, it's always easier to fix it and ensures that I don't send it back to you for a remake, thus saving time & money on your end(time on mine). I understand many want them to give a silent nod to those in the "sartorial know" or simply because they can, but I can't see much practicality to adding working buttonholes to coat sleeves(or mine at least). If I need to wash my hands or do anything that could damage/ruin my coat sleeves, I simply take my coat off. Plus....having undone sleeve buttons looks tacky and affectatious. Why pay more just so I can say I have it? or to boast about what I know? I'd rather invest the money into a tie or pocket square. Just my 2 cents.

 

Glenn Plaid & Herringbone are my two favorite fabric patterns, bar none. Someone was going to sell a sport coat by Samuelsohn on here, but changed his mind. Still the best looking thing I've ever seen for casual wear. 29.jpg 86k .jpg file   If this was made to be a suit coat, a lower buttoning point and with Pagoda shoulders and a bit more roping would make this Perfect. Great lapel width, lining color, notch height, and pattern.


Edited by forbritisheyes - 10/7/13 at 11:20pm
post #51 of 240
Quote:

Hugh Laurie. The man has earned the right to be called by his name. A Little Bit of Fry and Laurie was pure genius. :tounge: 

I know, in fact it's hard to think of something bad he's been in...that particular image is from the excellent PG Wodehouse adaptation, Jeeves and Wooster

post #52 of 240

What a fun idea for a contest; I'll gladly take any chance to discuss the elusive suit I have been yet unable to create.

 

 

We'd start with the fabric, a light tweed or flannel between dark tan and light brown that had slight hints at other colours - reminiscent of a donegal in that regard. Overall, the cut could be described as on the edge of modern; healthy suppression of the waist and very light shoulders, featuring that little ruffle of the seam that Ring Jacket fans adore, would offer a slimness that extended through the sleeves. A sharp taper on the pants, though never enough to be called skinny, would end with a clean closure over the top of the shoe - no break but no sock in sight. 

 

I'm a bookbinder by trade - when not a student - so I'll frequently be removing the jacket, hunched over a cluttered work bench and surrounded by bookshelves, to reveal the waistcoat. Fabric on the back instead of lining would allow easy transition to the front of the shop, as it's tough to look presentable without a jacket when your back is a reflective gold or purple colour. The flap pockets will hold all manner of things in their time, especially the notebook I always keep at hand and a few pens and tools.

 

This picture offers a nice sense of the fabric; preferably we'd skip the corresponding collar gap.

 

The buttons would be of a dull metallic color, either brass or gunmetal, but in either case with a depth and subdued glimmer that would pull the secondary colours of the fabric out to the eye. Four on the cuffs, functioning and frequently with the first undone, and three on the body, the middle hitting just under the center of the jacket with a nice roll over the top closure into the lapel. Sitting just one button above the rolled third of the jacket, the waistcoat would be visible only as a place to tuck those beautiful cashmere ties to finish off all the fall colours. The notch sits a little higher than usual and allows the lapel to be a bit wider than the rest of the cut would suggest.

 

An idea of the button stance, texture, and shoulder construction.


Edited by books and tweed - 10/9/13 at 10:04am
post #53 of 240
^^
Wow. Honestly that sounds beautiful. I'd wear that in a heartbeat.
post #54 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-ModaR View Post
 

The format for entering the competition should be:

1. Specifications of the suit such as the cutting, the type of shoulders (natural or more structured), color of the fabric, lapel width, how many buttons, pocket styles, etc.

 

 

 

Jacket Specs

  • Natural shoulders
  • Navy fabric
  • 3.5" lapel width
  • 3 roll 2
  • Welt breast pocket
  • Jetted Pockets
  • 4 buttons in the surgeon cuffs

 

Trouser Specs

  • Single pleat forward
  • Side Adjusters
  • Slant front pockets
  • 2 Rear Pockets with buttons
  • 2" cuffs

 

Vest

  • 6 front buttons
  • No lapels

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-ModaR View Post
 

The format for entering the competition should be:

2. A reference photo or two so the folks here can get an idea of what you’re thinking of

 

 

 

This pic is with a jacket I like how it fits me and the best fitting trouser I have. I like a lot the silhouette, I tried to make a filter on PS but I don't remember wel how to do it, so just converted it to B&W and softened it. I would like to have that silhouette in a suit.

 

 

Fabric example and also the best example of the vest.

 

 

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris-ModaR View Post
 

The format for entering the competition should be:

3. What occasion you have in mind for the suit, your own wedding? A friend’s wedding? Everyday work? Graduation? Prom? Starting a new job? A special event coming up? Let us know to get us excited for your suit!

 

 

 

I will use this suit a lot. Mostly for visitng my clients. I don't have a 3-piece suit, that's why I can't specficate a lot in the vest. My work consists in presenting investment solutions, so I have to stand up in front of big executives at a time and the first thing they notice before the solutins it's my clothing, I need to earn their trust. 

 

Thanks!

post #55 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by forbritisheyes View Post
 

 

I've never felt a need for it, Chris. I'm sure it looks nice, and I know there are those that have contrast stitching on the last buttonhole, but Surgeon Cuff's have always seemed contrived to me(at least for the reasons most of listed as to why he wanted them). Plus, if the sleeve length is off, it's always easier to fix it and ensures that I don't send it back to you for a remake, thus saving time & money on your end(time on mine). I understand many want them to give a silent nod to those in the "sartorial know" or simply because they can, but I can't see much practicality to adding working buttonholes to coat sleeves(or mine at least). If I need to wash my hands or do anything that could damage/ruin my coat sleeves, I simply take my coat off. Plus....having undone sleeve buttons looks tacky and affectatious. Why pay more just so I can say I have it? or to boast about what I know? I'd rather invest the money into a tie or pocket square. Just my 2 cents.

 

Glenn Plaid & Herringbone are my two favorite fabric patterns, bar none. Someone was going to sell a sport coat by Samuelsohn on here, but changed his mind. Still the best looking thing I've ever seen for casual wear. 29.jpg 86k .jpg file   If this was made to be a suit coat, a lower buttoning point and with Pagoda shoulders and a bit more roping would make this Perfect. Great lapel width, lining color, notch height, and pattern.

Fair enough and great answer! It's an interesting thing because a lot our clients have come in whether our store or our website and actually chose to not have surgeon cuffs because they felt it has no value. It is a nice touch though when having something made specifically for you but I also understand that the money is better spend on accessories :).

post #56 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Jacket Specs

  • Natural shoulders
  • Navy fabric
  • 3.5" lapel width
  • 3 roll 2
  • Welt breast pocket
  • Jetted Pockets
  • 4 buttons in the surgeon cuffs

 

Trouser Specs

  • Single pleat forward
  • Side Adjusters
  • Slant front pockets
  • 2 Rear Pockets with buttons
  • 2" cuffs

 

Vest

  • 6 front buttons
  • No lapels

 

 

 

I will use this suit a lot. Mostly for visitng my clients. I don't have a 3-piece suit, that's why I can't specficate a lot in the vest. My work consists in presenting investment solutions, so I have to stand up in front of big executives at a time and the first thing they notice before the solutins it's my clothing, I need to earn their trust. 

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

Hey Betelgeuse! 

 

Thanks for the great submission. I've noticed a lot of StyleForum users favor the 3 roll 2 suit style and would like to learn more as to why. Is it just coincidental, perhaps the subtlety of the extra button hole or is there something else! I'm a huge fan of 3 piece suits, I have 2 myself but have never found a time to actually wear it unfortunately. 

 

I love the fit of your jacket with the pants in the photo you provided and if you don't mind me asking, is the second photo from the Armoury? 

 

Thanks for your submission! 

post #57 of 240

I suspect they favor it for several reasons. Many members are from America, where the 3 roll 2 is a standard, deriving (I think) from trad. Added to this, I suspect many members get their first "real" suits from Brooks Brothers, were a 3 roll 2 is pretty common. Also, probably the most discussed tailor on this site, Rubinacci, is known for his use of 3 roll 2.

 

In addition, it can create a beautiful lapel roll.

 

And, ermm, just to be clear, my submission was noted, right? (You didn't comment on it as you did with many of the other submissions) :embar: 

post #58 of 240
Thread Starter 

Hi Claghorn, not to worry. We definitely saw your submission. We have included it as well and will all be part of a computerized lucky draw system and will announce the winner on the 26th! I noticed you're in Seoul Claghorn, how is the bespoke tailoring options in Korea?

post #59 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex-ModaR View Post
 

Hi Claghorn, not to worry. We definitely saw your submission. We have included it as well and will all be part of a computerized lucky draw system and will announce the winner on the 26th! I noticed you're in Seoul Claghorn, how is the bespoke tailoring options in Korea?


Very varied. The nastiest bit is fabric--they take an arm and a leg (as I mentioned in another thread, Scabal is marked up about 1000USD). There are mtm, semi-bespoke, and bespoke options, and low to high end across all three. Low end is generally not worth it. 500USD half-canvassed, but poor quality fabric and questionable construction quality. Towards the middle of the spectrum, tailors generally charge 800-1000 (sans fabric) for full bespoke and you see a huge uptick in construction (but still little handwork). I stick with these guys (especially since I found one that'll CMT). There are higher end tailors that start around 2000 (for something made up in VBC), but the marginal benefit of going up to that level just isn't there for me. I also suspect that middle tier tailors here learn a bit more slowly than the really good ones. It took my current tailor 3-4 jackets to really get my pattern right.

post #60 of 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-ModaR View Post
 

 

Hey Betelgeuse! 

 

Thanks for the great submission. I've noticed a lot of StyleForum users favor the 3 roll 2 suit style and would like to learn more as to why. Is it just coincidental, perhaps the subtlety of the extra button hole or is there something else! I'm a huge fan of 3 piece suits, I have 2 myself but have never found a time to actually wear it unfortunately. 

 

I love the fit of your jacket with the pants in the photo you provided and if you don't mind me asking, is the second photo from the Armoury? 

 

Thanks for your submission! 

 

Thanks! :D Yes the second pic is from the Armoury, I like that suit Alan is wearing in there a lot. 

 

About the 3 roll 2, I usually have 2 button jackets and around here most people only wear 2 or 3 button suits, haven't seen someone wearing a 3 roll 2. Plus what Claghorn said, the beautiful lapel roll it creates.  

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