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How do I find a jacket that fits my shoulders and my waist?

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 

I'm 5'6" and I'm a pretty skinny guy but my shoulders aren't scrawny. They're not bony and they have enough structure and width to make me look less skinny. My waist is a 30 and my chest measures to be about 36-37. However, when I try on 36 and 38 off the rack suits, the cloth bunches up in the back under the collar. Somewhere in between the top parts of my shoulder blades, it looks like the fabric is pulling. When I try on a 40 slim, the tension is gone and the fabric lays flat on my back. However, there's so much excess fabric in my waist area that I don't know if the suit will still look okay after taking all that fabric out. What should I do?

If what I'm saying isn't making sense, look at this video: 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=on7g87N8kb4

pause it at 0:40 and notice how the cloth right under his collar is wrinkled. 

post #2 of 6
You might have better luck trying "slim" cut suits. Check out Suit Supply (there is a dedicated thread) or try made-to-measure.
post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 

I did check out slim, there's still a lot of excess fabric there

post #4 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by henry25 View Post
 

I did check out slim, there's still a lot of excess fabric there

 

The most important thing is that the shoulders fit. Shoulders really can't be altered without enormous expense and the result would probably still be bad. Check out different makers - they all cut their jackets differently. If even slim styles are still too roomy round the waist, then, having made sure you have a jacket with shoulders that fit, visit an alterations tailor and get the waist taken in - that's what they are for - or if it still doesn't work out then go for Made-to-Meaure (MTM) - there are lots of options if you search this forum.

post #5 of 6
From the video you posted, this particular problem can be dealt with by a good alterations tailor. I've had it done - from what I understand though if done incorrectly it can make the jacket unwearable. I don't remember what it's caused by though.

The only thing really to do is to go try stuff on. When you find something you like and - if you so desire - have consulted here or with a tailor you know about alterability, buy it, get it altered, then learn from the experience. Unless you're going to shell out for good bespoke at the outset, this is most likely going to be part of your learning process.
post #6 of 6
I've got the same stats as you roughly, and I'm a size 34! no way you're a 40, or even a 38 seems highly unlikely to me. i'm 5'6, 130lbs, 30' waist, 36-38' chest actual... small shoulders are my biggest issue.

see if this helps - http://www.styleforum.net/t/68936/clothes-for-the-short-guy-stores-brands-lines-websites
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