The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

[apropos]

Watch nerdery incoming. You have been warned.

A good article from Hodinkee about the new GP constant force escapement was just posted. Although Monochrome covered this horological breakthrough in greater detail some weeks before, the Hodinkee article is a little easier to understand IMO.

http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/in-depth-the-girard-perregaux-constant-force-escapement-explained

Some here might recall mafoofan and I discussing power reserves some pages ago. Some again might recall a particular comment from the foo mentioning that having a huge mainspring exacerbates a problem inherent in all springs - that the spring runs too "hot" initially, then as it winds down delivers energy in a non-linear manner. Since the escapement has no way of "insulating" this effect from the rest of the movement, the fundamental function of timekeeping is compromised.

Make that was compromised.

This new GP constant force escapement is absolutely ingenious in its very simplicity. I can remember myself playing with flexible train tickets many years ago (read the Hodinkee article to understand this reference), and even if I were a watchmaker I doubt I would have made the mental leap to actually coming up with this design.

While this new GP watch is not exactly a watch I would buy for its looks, it is a true breakthrough that I think deserves the attention of any person who considers him/herself a mechanical watch lover. And it definitively shows that strange deluded aggressive poster from quite a few pages back (remember him??) that horological development did not die with George Daniels. Hah!

 

[Kai]

That constant force escapement is very cool. The watch is ugly, but the tech is sublime.

Will be interesting to see the other incarnations of this technology.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Watch nerdery incoming. You have been warned.

A good article from Hodinkee about the new GP constant force escapement was just posted. Although Monochrome covered this horological breakthrough in greater detail some weeks before, the Hodinkee article is a little easier to understand IMO.

http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/in-depth-the-girard-perregaux-constant-force-escapement-explained

Some here might recall mafoofan and I discussing power reserves some pages ago. Some again might recall a particular comment from the foo mentioning that having a huge mainspring exacerbates a problem inherent in all springs - that the spring runs too "hot" initially, then as it winds down delivers energy in a non-linear manner. Since the escapement has no way of "insulating" this effect from the rest of the movement, the fundamental function of timekeeping is compromised.

Make that was compromised.

This new GP constant force escapement is absolutely ingenious in its very simplicity. I can remember myself playing with flexible train tickets many years ago (read the Hodinkee article to understand this reference), and even if I were a watchmaker I doubt I would have made the mental leap to actually coming up with this design.

While this new GP watch is not exactly a watch I would buy for its looks, it is a true breakthrough that I think deserves the attention of any person who considers him/herself a mechanical watch lover. And it definitively shows that strange deluded aggressive poster from quite a few pages back (remember him??) that horological development did not die with George Daniels. Hah!

 

[Flake]



Watch nerdery incoming. You have been warned.

A good article from Hodinkee about the new GP constant force escapement was just posted. Although Monochrome covered this horological breakthrough in greater detail some weeks before, the Hodinkee article is a little easier to understand IMO.

http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/in-depth-the-girard-perregaux-constant-force-escapement-explained

Some here might recall mafoofan and I discussing power reserves some pages ago. Some again might recall a particular comment from the foo mentioning that having a huge mainspring exacerbates a problem inherent in all springs - that the spring runs too "hot" initially, then as it winds down delivers energy in a non-linear manner. Since the escapement has no way of "insulating" this effect from the rest of the movement, the fundamental function of timekeeping is compromised.

Make that was compromised.

This new GP constant force escapement is absolutely ingenious in its very simplicity. I can remember myself playing with flexible train tickets many years ago (read the Hodinkee article to understand this reference), and even if I were a watchmaker I doubt I would have made the mental leap to actually coming up with this design.

While this new GP watch is not exactly a watch I would buy for its looks, it is a true breakthrough that I think deserves the attention of any person who considers him/herself a mechanical watch lover. And it definitively shows that strange deluded aggressive poster from quite a few pages back (remember him??) that horological development did not die with George Daniels. Hah!

Excellent read. The GP DNA is somewhat evident in the shape of those bridges when viewed from that movement side. Nice touch. And a fascinating idea. Truly revolutionary.

 

[Hayward]

This would be an overarching example of craftsmanship over design. It may be finely made, but what good is a watch you can hardly read? When the main dial becomes so sublimated that's really going too far.

 

[Belligero]

It's an art watch; I suppose legibility isn't the main goal.

Audemars Piguet did something similar with their thoroughbred 43,200 bph Jules Audemars Chronometer a few years back:

photos from kronosblog

 

[Flake]

And Breguet have a whole series similarly done

 

[Hayward]

That doesn't justify it by any stretch of the imagination.It's like wearing a Faberge egg.

 

[Belligero]

Y'know, I think I'd be fine with that...

kronosblog

 

[in stitches]

i have always liked that AP.

 

[rnguy001]

Great innovation. Incredible watch. I happen to like the design, the purple's a neat touch too.

Watch nerdery incoming. You have been warned.

A good article from Hodinkee about the new GP constant force escapement was just posted. Although Monochrome covered this horological breakthrough in greater detail some weeks before, the Hodinkee article is a little easier to understand IMO.

http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/in-depth-the-girard-perregaux-constant-force-escapement-explained

Some here might recall mafoofan and I discussing power reserves some pages ago. Some again might recall a particular comment from the foo mentioning that having a huge mainspring exacerbates a problem inherent in all springs - that the spring runs too "hot" initially, then as it winds down delivers energy in a non-linear manner. Since the escapement has no way of "insulating" this effect from the rest of the movement, the fundamental function of timekeeping is compromised.

Make that was compromised.

This new GP constant force escapement is absolutely ingenious in its very simplicity. I can remember myself playing with flexible train tickets many years ago (read the Hodinkee article to understand this reference), and even if I were a watchmaker I doubt I would have made the mental leap to actually coming up with this design.

While this new GP watch is not exactly a watch I would buy for its looks, it is a true breakthrough that I think deserves the attention of any person who considers him/herself a mechanical watch lover. And it definitively shows that strange deluded aggressive poster from quite a few pages back (remember him??) that horological development did not die with George Daniels. Hah!

 

[RogerP]

I applaud the design innovation, but since I started wearing reading glasses two years ago legibility has become an even more important purchase criterion. Even if I could afford the no-doubt hefty pricetag of the GP, that micro-dial for the primary timekeeping display would be a definite deal-breaker. It looks to be about the same size as the subsecond dial on my Moser.

 

[Newcomer]



Yep, looks great Newcomer. Curious as to how it will break in....darken a bit, perhaps?

And good call on the rubber, especially as it's starting to warm up, Stitchy.

I think it may darken a bit. But living in the south, I actually like brighter colors. It is always sunny down here, and I feel that the sun befits a little bit of brightness!

And as promised, some better / more delicious pictures!

 

[Newcomer]

Also, in regards to the GP, great technology, but I would love to see it (a) in a simpler watch, and (b) not "tourbillonified" (as the Hodinkee article mentioned). I see no reason why this technology cannot become 'mainstream.' I would love to see it in their more classical watches. Plus, you get to see the beauty of it without the display back, which is nice.

All in all, great work by GP. I look forward to seeing the actual tests.

 

[RogerP]

Newcomer - that strap looks great - really brightens up the appearance of the watch. I had a similar tan JLC ostrich strap on my old Master Reveil. Unfortunately, I found that in the summer it showed sweat stains all too easily, and I ended up switching it out for a CF dark brown croc. I do hope yours serves you better down south.

 

[Newcomer]



Newcomer - that strap looks great - really brightens up the appearance of the watch.  I had a similar tan JLC ostrich strap on my old Master Reveil.  Unfortunately, I found that in the summer it showed sweat stains all too easily, and I ended up switching it out for a CF dark brown croc.  I do hope yours serves you better down south.

Eek! Well, fortunately my wrists do not sweat very much (if only the same held true for the rest of me!), but I could definitely see that being unappealing. Thank you very much!