Originally Posted by TheWraith
I really dislike Ti watches. I had one once, a Citizen dive watch. It was ok, but it felt way too light on the wrist. I want my dive watches to feel
like a dive watch. It's gotta have some heft to it. For those that are allergic to SS or have some other issues, that's fair enough, but for most others, I'd say forget it.
No serious diver is wearing a giant steel bracelet under the water. I dove with a seiko monster on a bracelet once and it was the most useless, uncomfortable thing ever. If you think its hefty on land, wait till you get it under the water. It becomes lopsided ballast every time you move your arm.
A dive watch does not need to feel "heavy". This misconception is how ridiculous fashion brands get away with selling hockey pucks out of shitty generic steel at absurd premiums. Lighter, thinner, and stronger is always where the superior engineering will be.
Thats almost certainly a redial, and not the best one (although not the worst one either). I personally dont really care if a watch is redialed as long as it is done properly, since after all I am looking for a dress watch and it does no good to show up dressed clean wearing a beat up watch.
Something to keep in mind is that vintage black faces are almost always going to be in poor condition if original, and almost certainly a redial if they look sharp (sometimes youll see hints of paint on the indices). The black dyes back then were not as strong or fast and faded much more quickly when exposed to UV and moisture.
Most of the big houses werent consistently making 37mm+ until the late 50s/early 60s. There were rarer models reaching back to the 30s and 40s, it seems trends for sizing have oscillated before beginning their gradual upward trend in the 70s. Omega was known to make some larger dress models using the 30T2 caliber, they can be found from 38-40mm, expect to pay between 500 and 1000, more for precious metal models. This is a 38mm model, search by the caliber on ebay and youll find some for sale:
Alternatively, if you are willing to go to more obscure brands, the russians have been making excellent watches for a long time now. The Ural are very rare, large for their time (40mm) and available dirt cheap (less than $100 easy) and have bulletproof workhorse movements. Invest some money in a service, and possibly a polish or replating and you can have a unique dress watch for cheap. There were several different models and dials made:
Again, black models will not have aged as well but there are many redial services out there that are not prohibitively expensive. They are very handsome watches and a full service, replate and redial should not run you more than 300 or 400 dollars:
I have seen 38mm Girard Perregaux models on ebay, Longines made a fair amount as well, as did Zenith. There were also some smaller, now defunct brands that made larger dress watches, such as this 38mm Election, which is selling for $300:
My personal preference is Longines. Their finishing standard is on par or above what you would see with similarly positioned brands of their era (at their time, easily surpassing Girard Perregaux) with gold chaton settings for the jewels and breguet hairsprings (features I got on my Longines for about $300) and their prices are still a bargain compared to Omega fever which has since driven prices way up for vintage Devilles and Seamasters.
I agree that a dress watch should be slim and reserved in size, and that other factors affect how a watch wears, like the thinness of the bezel, lug length, case chape, and dial color (black looks smaller). I have 7.25'' wrists that are on the flatter side, and 34mm is most definitely too small, and I couldnt really get used to 36mm either. 38mm is my sweet spot.