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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Page 1558

post #23356 of 36763
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayward View Post

Having owned an SD I can attest it wears thicker than pre-big lug Subs. It seemed like they added thickness to the case, crystal and case back. It wears heavier than the Sub. One reason why I chose an SD as my first Rolex was an aversion to the date bubble and the notion that it would be easier to tell apart from fakes, as my assumption was that fakes just added a valve to the Sub case. I've no idea if that was true after all, but I found the watch heavy and too blingy for my taste wine the shiny dial and markers. Plus I like date bubbles now.

It wears a bit bigger than the older version Sub, but about the same as the current version Sub or GMT. But the thing that really bugged me about the SD was the hump on the back. I found this a bit uncomfortable.

post #23357 of 36763
A question about servicing , which I've done my best to avoid until now. Just bought a Lemania/Elvstrom regatta watch, just like the one that fell overboard 20 years ago. (Price has been adjusted for inflation, sadly.) It appears to be NOS, and works fine but makes a bit of unexpected noise when being wound. Is this necessarily a problem, and if so are there shops you'd trust to pull it apart and put it back in a water-tight sort of way?
post #23358 of 36763
Some great posts today guys! Congrats to both Wurger and Stitchy. I really enjoyed the review Wurger. I will have to look over everything more intently later. The thread has not been this active with new pieces in a little while!

And Frills. Just spectacular collection.

I do have a question though. Do you find that with your acquisition of your Patek perp-cal chronos, that your perpetual calendars have been rendered... obsolete? Or is there enough love in your heart for all of them? Personally, I have always been challenged by that concept. I am more of a single love kind of guy.
post #23359 of 36763
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerP View Post

Temptation is coming from odd sources for me these days.  First I'm lusting after a Sub (about which I was "meh" for decades) then comes along this piece from I brand I have pretty much categorically rejected as decidedly not my thing.  Limited edition blue dial Transocean chronograph.  Thoughts?



That is sexxxxxxy
post #23360 of 36763
My 3714 just back from major Service
I have worn this pretty much everyday for the last 7 years and the case polish job they did was amazing.
Delivered 3 weeks early and the SA also threw in a couple of Baseball Caps.
The NYC Boutique are a super professional outfit.
I have now had two pieces serviced via them with no issues (preferable to shipping to Fort Worth myself).....



post #23361 of 36763
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

Some great posts today guys! Congrats to both Wurger and Stitchy. I really enjoyed the review Wurger. I will have to look over everything more intently later. The thread has not been this active with new pieces in a little while!
And Frills. Just spectacular collection.
I do have a question though. Do you find that with your acquisition of your Patek perp-cal chronos, that your perpetual calendars have been rendered... obsolete? Or is there enough love in your heart for all of them? Personally, I have always been challenged by that concept. I am more of a single love kind of guy.

thanks! just a heads up, i dont think the wrist shots will be as forthcoming as i had hoped. while the watch is in excellent condition, there are more lines/slight scratches and swirlies to the high polish areas of the steel than i had first realized. i ordered a cape cod cloth and when it arrives i will try and clean it up real nice. then we can has pics! apologies for all the delays. frown.gif

solid question you point out there regarding owning both annual and perpetual calendars. while from a utilitarian standpoint, the perp obviously covers everything the annual does, and more, from an aesthetic standpoint, the models are certainly different, and lend to very different looks. most strikingly that the perps are far busier on the dials that annuals tend to be, as well as they are usually ticker cased watches if my memory serves me.

i mean, if a person can enjoy multiple perp cals just for aesthetic variation, there is certainly room for annuals too. if i were a collector, there are defo some annual calendars that i would want for their looks even if i had perps lines out the wazoo.

just my opinion. YMMV.
Quote:
Originally Posted by earthdragon View Post

My 3714 just back from major Service Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I have worn this pretty much everyday for the last 7 years and the case polish job they did was amazing.
Delivered 3 weeks early and the SA also threw in a couple of Baseball Caps.
The NYC Boutique are a super professional outfit.
I have now had two pieces serviced via them with no issues (preferable to shipping to Fort Worth myself).....




looks like new. what an awesome feeling right? enjoy it!
post #23362 of 36763
Likey very much. Great looking watch. Personally I'd wear it on a nice croc strap instead of the mesh.

Hear nothing but great things about that B1 movement as well.

Keep us posted my man
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerP View Post

Temptation is coming from odd sources for me these days.  First I'm lusting after a Sub (about which I was "meh" for decades) then comes along this piece from I brand I have pretty much categorically rejected as decidedly not my thing.  Limited edition blue dial Transocean chronograph.  Thoughts?


post #23363 of 36763
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

...

Taking a cape cod cloth to it eh? That has always scared me!

Maybe I will pick one up to touch up my Mako. My MUT Moon is back at the mothership, as an aside. So far, JLC customer service has been nothing short of divine.
post #23364 of 36763
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayward View Post

Having owned an SD I can attest it wears thicker than pre-big lug Subs. It seemed like they added thickness to the case, crystal and case back. It wears heavier than the Sub. One reason why I chose an SD as my first Rolex was an aversion to the date bubble and the notion that it would be easier to tell apart from fakes, as my assumption was that fakes just added a valve to the Sub case. I've no idea if that was true after all, but I found the watch heavy and too blingy for my taste wine the shiny dial and markers. Plus I like date bubbles now.

According to my references old synthetic saphire crystal SDs are between 14.6 and 15mm, and Subs of the same period were between 12.8 and 13mm depending on the reference.  So there is definitely a thickness difference of about 1.5 to 2 mm.  

Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post


thanks! just a heads up, i dont think the wrist shots will be as forthcoming as i had hoped. while the watch is in excellent condition, there are more lines/slight scratches and swirlies to the high polish areas of the steel than i had first realized. i ordered a cape cod cloth and when it arrives i will try and clean it up real nice. then we can has pics! apologies for all the delays. frown.gif

solid question you point out there regarding owning both annual and perpetual calendars. while from a utilitarian standpoint, the perp obviously covers everything the annual does, and more, from an aesthetic standpoint, the models are certainly different, and lend to very different looks. most strikingly that the perps are far busier on the dials that annuals tend to be, as well as they are usually ticker cased watches if my memory serves me.

i mean, if a person can enjoy multiple perp cals just for aesthetic variation, there is certainly room for annuals too. if i were a collector, there are defo some annual calendars that i would want for their looks even if i had perps lines out the wazoo.
 

Stitchy,  in your excitement about your new watch...I think you misread Nuke's question.  It was directed toward Frills and asked about Perpetual Calendars vs. Perpetual Calendar Chronographs.  Frills doesn't own an Annual Calendar (at least not that I'm aware of).  

 

Personally, I don't care for annual calendars.  Yes, less expensive and allows more people to get close to owning a "Perpetual Calendar"...but to me go big or go home!  If I can't afford the real deal, I don't want a near imitator.  I know not everyone will like that answer, but that's where I stand on that issue.  YMMV.  

 

If one considers Perpetual Calendars vs. Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, at least the ones Frills has there is enough diversity to like each of them (Although the 3970 is the same, just in diff metals).  With the Perpetual Calendars he has he gets an automatic movement, classic design with the 3940, the tonneau case gives its sibling a completely different feel...and the 3970s cover all the bases...and gives one some additional personal time winding the crown to get its day started with your own.

 

I think Nuke's question was interesting...but if he truly is a 1 watch love kind of guy...I would think that would necessitate his always liquidating and trading, and not actually building a collection.  It could be financially more sound and better for ones wallet, provided each new watch does not become significantly more expensive requiring one to continue to add funds to the purchase.  It would also make sure one gets their money's worth when it comes to wrist time. However, it doesn't leave room for versatility, such as a pure sports watch or a pure dress watch.  Rather one has to find a jack of all trades.  Some watches can straddle that line well, but still there are times a really dress watch is the best choice and times a very rugged sports watch makes the most sense.

post #23365 of 36763
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

Taking a cape cod cloth to it eh? That has always scared me!

Maybe I will pick one up to touch up my Mako. My MUT Moon is back at the mothership, as an aside. So far, JLC customer service has been nothing short of divine.

i have some polishing cloths, but never used a cape cod. derek said he uses them and they make his watches look like new. i have seen his watches, and they look like new. so ill gently give it a try on some of the high polish areas to clean them up.

really happy that JLC is coming through for you. always makes me smile to hear more good things about my beloved JLC.
post #23366 of 36763
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

Stitchy,  in your excitement about your new watch...I think you misread Nuke's question.  It was directed toward Frills and asked about Perpetual Calendars vs. Perpetual Calendar Chronographs.  Frills doesn't own an Annual Calendar (at least not that I'm aware of).  

Personally, I don't care for annual calendars.  Yes, less expensive and allows more people to get close to owning a "Perpetual Calendar"...but to me go big or go home!  If I can't afford the real deal, I don't want a near imitator.  I know not everyone will like that answer, but that's where I stand on that issue.  YMMV.

opps, yeah, my speed reading made me look the fool there. shog[1].gif

my answer stays the same though. just visa versa. while the perp cal chrono is function wise the same and more than a perp cal, there are enough model variations that would warrant both imo.

as to your point on annual calendars, im afraid i dont see it that way. for example, JLC and blancpain both make beautiful annual calendars that imo have nothing to do with a perp cal, and are in no way failing to go big. they are wonderful watches that provide the day, date and month, and as a bonus they provide the convenience of once yearly only adjusting.

now, there are certainly annuals that look like a poor mans perpetual, but i find those are in general the ones that are all sub dials, like many of the PP annual calendars. those do usually fall flat for me, and do seem to be almost what they want to be but not quite. however, the ones that use windows and arrows are often really nice and instead of a poor mans perp, they are more like a rich mans day date.

just my opinion as a poor man.  
Quote:
I think Nuke's question was interesting...but if he truly is a 1 watch love kind of guy...I would think that would necessitate his always liquidating and trading, and not actually building a collection.  It could be financially more sound and better for ones wallet, provided each new watch does not become significantly more expensive requiring one to continue to add funds to the purchase.  It would also make sure one gets their money's worth when it comes to wrist time. However, it doesn't leave room for versatility, such as a pure sports watch or a pure dress watch.  Rather one has to find a jack of all trades.  Some watches can straddle that line well, but still there are times a really dress watch is the best choice and times a very rugged sports watch makes the most sense.

agree with this for sure. and i think most one watch guys, who are truly watch guys, end up going from one to the next as their one watch. rare for a watch lover to have a one watch and truly stick to it.
post #23367 of 36763
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

. . .
Personally, I don't care for annual calendars.  Yes, less expensive and allows more people to get close to owning a "Perpetual Calendar"...but to me go big or go home!  If I can't afford the real deal, I don't want a near imitator.  I know not everyone will like that answer, but that's where I stand on that issue.  YMMV.  

....
Funny . . . that is how I feel about date mechanisms generally. They don't really work and having to adust them at the end of every other month is proof. You wouldn't think the time keeping mechanism of a watch worked if it was off by an hour every other day and you had to adjust it yourself. Same with a date mechanism that doesn't know how many days there are in a month.
So are you o.k. with ordinary 31 day date wheels?
post #23368 of 36763
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

That does seem to be the general opinion. I think that I do like the larger case size though.

Speaking of Rolex, I am on my way to go pick up my very own. YAY 4 ME!!1!

Congraz Stitchy, waiting for a photo gallery or a review! haha
post #23369 of 36763
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by wurger View Post

My Longines Boutique called right before COB today to say my special order as arrived, what a pleasant surprise of only one day wait!


Longines Master Collection Retrograde Moonphase comes in 2 sizes, 41 mm and 44 mm, having a smaller wrist, I picked the 41 mm, and luckily the adjusted bracelet fits my wrist very well, since there is no half links. What really struck me is that how thick is the watch case.... 16 mm, is that common with complication watches? I told myself that I will get used it. As approved by SF members on this thread, I got the white barleycorn dial with contrasting blue hands, it just looks lovely.

Longines Master Collection Retrograde Moon Phases L2.738.4.71.6


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





When the Retrogrades were released a couple of years again, they didn't really do it for me back then; however, since joining this wonderful thread with wonder contributors, yes, you guys, got me interested in watches again. When I was buying a watch for my missus last week, the store manager gave me a Watchtime special on Longines for been a good customer over the years and also the fact everyone knows me in the store. I read about the new Saint-Imier Retrograde Moon Phases, which got me thinking, by adding the moon phases and day/night indicators, and keeping the perfect balance of the dial, I might actually want this. However, it's not perfect, I didn't like arabic numbers as markers and the fat hands, and so so on the lug design of Saint-Imier range.


So after I got home, had a look online and found the Master Collection Retrograde Moon Phases, roman dial with dauphine hands and smooth lug design, and I am sold!


This is a beautiful moon phase complication watch with four retrograde hands on the dial. There are: retrograde day indicator and day/night indicator at 12 o’clock, moon phase indicator at 6 o'clock, 24-hour GMT 2nd time zone indicator at the left side of the dial and retrograde date indicator at the right side of the dial. It covers all that I would want on a watch, probably because there is no more room for anything else.

With all these complications, does this watch qualifies to be a grand complication? Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:







Its movement L707.2 is exclusively created by ETA for Longines, based on the Valjoux 7750. There are 2 pushers on each side of the watch and the crown, each has its own function, making changes on the display very easy.





Two things I didn't know until I got the watch, the pushers on the side need a stylus to push, I actually thought they were buttons that gets released for pushing when I move the crown into position 2 or 3, but any ball point pen will do the job, and ink doesn't go on the metal casing, I guess this stops me from fiddling with the different functions when I am on the train... There are the external pusher versions, no moon phase version though, and they are $2000 more.... don't know why is there such a price difference.





The 2nd thing is when pulling out the crown, all the retrograde hands reset to zero, luckily it is just a position when the crown is pulled, everything goes back to normal after the crown is pushed back.


I always liked the elegance of a push button butterfly clasp on the bracelet, this one is no different, and the overall polish for the casing and bracelet is great.


Seeing so many movements on the dial will bring great enjoyment and fun to its wearer while appreciating mechanical masterpiece hidden inside the watch, which is visible from the sapphire crystal display back. For its price tag rrp 4625 AUD (actual price I got it for is in the low 3000s), Longines really did an excellent job of creating a classic looking watch with multiple complications and good finishing.

Wurger Congrats!!!  That's a beauty.  Retrogrades are very cool.  I'm sure you will really enjoy it.

That is a really thick watch, but often times when there are lots of complications a watch does get quite thick.

I don't believe your watch would qualify as a grand complication.  Granted it has several functions, but my understanding was that grand complications are a particular category of watches that combine some very difficult to make complications.  Watches that are grand complications tend to combine Chronograph or Spit Second Chronographs, with Perpetual Calendars, Minute Repeaters, (maybe Equation of Time), and any combination of those functions. If you check wiki, they state it must have at least 1 item from a chart they have with timing complications (chronographs of some sort), astronomical complications ( perpetual calendar, equation of time, moon phase etc), and a striking complication (minute repeater, alarm etc).  So if going by their definition, your watch is missing a chronograph and chiming device of some sort.  I don't know that it necessarily needs a complication from all three categories, however all of the complications on yours fall under 1 category.  In the end you bought a watch you really like, its very handsome and your will enjoy it so that's what really matters.  

Thanks Dino, yeah, I read up on the wiki and Europa star article, very informative. I absolutely love this watch, and will take it for what it is!

Can anyone answer why having external pushers compare to inserted pushers cost more? Does that complicates the movement?
Edited by wurger - 7/25/13 at 5:36am
post #23370 of 36763
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Funny . . . that is how I feel about date mechanisms generally. They don't really work and having to adust them at the end of every other month is proof. You wouldn't think the time keeping mechanism of a watch worked if it was off by an hour every other day and you had to adjust it yourself. Same with a date mechanism that doesn't know how many days there are in a month.
So are you o.k. with ordinary 31 day date wheels?

im totally cool with a regular date function. i use it multiple times each day and find it far more convenient than having to find and grab my phone and press the home key to see the date. having to change it once a month, or when i switch watches is no biggie.

i actually enjoy setting and tinkering with my watches. part of the enjoyment for me is doing that, and feeling how smoothly and nicely the adjustments are and feeling like i am using the tool part of the watch, not just the jewelry part. and bye the by, anyone who thinks luxury watches are not jewelry is only fooling them-self
Quote:
Originally Posted by wurger View Post

Congraz Stitchy, waiting for a photo gallery or a review! haha

thanks, but dont hold your breath, might be a week.
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