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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Page 1547

post #23191 of 33946

Hello everyone,

 

I could really use some guidance on where to start looking for a dressy watch.

I have looked at a few (JLC reverso or master control, Rolex DJ, Omega DeVille) but maybe I am missing a lot of choices and since I have not seen all those models I just listed, maybe I have the wrong impressions on how they actually are on a wrist.

 

I already have a Longiness conquest, but I find it a bit too thick so it does not fit well under my shirt cuffs and maybe not so dressy.

I am going to change jobs and will wear suits more often, so I want (need?) a nice watch to go with that.

The budget is not super high, around 5000 euros max, so I would like to focus on quality in the fundamentals rather than extras (no complication and no precious materials). I have pretty small wrist so something between 35 to 38 would fit better I believe. 

 

Do you have any suggestions?

I will obviously look at them in person afterwards but I don't know where to start.

 

Thank you for the guidance and help

post #23192 of 33946
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bams View Post

Hello everyone,

 

I could really use some guidance on where to start looking for a dressy watch.

I have looked at a few (JLC reverso or master control, Rolex DJ, Omega DeVille) but maybe I am missing a lot of choices and since I have not seen all those models I just listed, maybe I have the wrong impressions on how they actually are on a wrist.

 

I already have a Longiness conquest, but I find it a bit too thick so it does not fit well under my shirt cuffs and maybe not so dressy.

I am going to change jobs and will wear suits more often, so I want (need?) a nice watch to go with that.

The budget is not super high, around 5000 euros max, so I would like to focus on quality in the fundamentals rather than extras (no complication and no precious materials). I have pretty small wrist so something between 35 to 38 would fit better I believe. 

 

Do you have any suggestions?

I will obviously look at them in person afterwards but I don't know where to start.

 

Thank you for the guidance and help

 

Do not buy a new Rolex. They are no longer well made and display all the general characteristics of design and machining that most other Swiss giants do. If you want a Rolex, get a mint one that is pre-2005. I was recently speaking to one of the world's top Rolex dealer/collectors and he attested what I've written above. My mum got a Datejust about 2 years ago and it's a complete pile of shit. Looks dumb, wears badly, CANNOT keep time, can't be fixed, is large and gaudy and plainly has been downgraded in quality from earlier makes. 

 

It's like if you get in a BMW from 1999 and then one from 2009 - there's been a fundamental re-adjustment of quality for the sake of extrinsic financial and marketing factors. In the case of BMW, you can understand that Asian cars are cheaper to build and in order for BMW to keep upgrading technology, price competitiveness dictates that material and quality control must give a little. Even in my bro's 2013 7 series, underneath the dashboard leather is creaky plastic. This is not the case in an E38, I assure you.

 

Why Rolex have gone all funny, I do not know. You can see the philosophical change in everything about them, from that stupid "rolex rolex rolex" writing on some models, to the steel models with brilliants all over them. Trash. All the polished edges. The fact is that globalisation and the fall of the wall have led to an international marketing environment where a lot of these formerly nice brands have had to cater to increased demand by bad taste.  

 

I'm only bothering to say this because so many people in these sorts of forums seem utterly oblivious to this. The only thing that's got better about them is the full upgrade to 904L steel in bracelets (not just the case). Now you might want a simple Datejust or Submariner, but they will not display the same quality and subtlety that earlier equivalents do.

 

My advice is to buy anything simple in steel, in good condition, that doesn't have an ETA movement in it. 

post #23193 of 33946
You know, with that description, I do not think you could do much better than a JLC MUT 38 or Master Control. At ~$5,000 euros, I really would not look anywhere other than JLC. Rolex DJ and Omega DeVille just really do not match up.

The MUT 38 comes in at just the right size for you. It is also very nice and thin.




The movement, although small for the case, is one of the best movements out there.

Here is an interesting review on the movement: http://www.thepurists.com/watch/features/8ohms/jlchw/

As you can tell, they also made the watch in 34mm. If you find the 38mm too big, you could try looking around for one.
post #23194 of 33946

Thank you very much, the picture are also very helpfull.

 

For my personnal development, could you say a few words why the DJ and DeVille do not match up? As far as I understand they also have manufacture movements? Maybe not the DeVille...

 

Thanks you!

post #23195 of 33946
Quote:
Originally Posted by bawlin View Post

Do you think the Hulk would make for a good candidate to wear either with a suit or casually? I'm having such a hard time deciding on a watch (I'm looking at some IWC's as well) but I do want something that isn't all too "common" (like a regular Sub or GMT). I'm a huge fan of green which is why the Hulk has a certain appeal to me.


How about a 16600 Sea-Dweller?
post #23196 of 33946
Quote:
Originally Posted by bawlin View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I agree that the DJ should have a fluted bezel. The only reason I prefer the smooth bezel, however, is because it makes the watch err more towards sport than dress (although most would classify it as a dress watch) and I spend more time in casual clothing than in business attire so...

 



Do you think the Hulk would make for a good candidate to wear either with a suit or casually? I'm having such a hard time deciding on a watch (I'm looking at some IWC's as well) but I do want something that isn't all too "common" (like a regular Sub or GMT). I'm a huge fan of green which is why the Hulk has a certain appeal to me.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

I would vote for an ExII 16570 white dial even though it doesn't have green.

post #23197 of 33946
Some random contemporary dress watch suggestions in no particular order: 1) Glashutte Original Senator Sixties 2) Zenith Captain Central Seconds 3) Glashutte Original Senator Automatic 4) Nomos tangomat. 5) Chronoswiss Orea 6) Chopard L.U.C. 1937. I think both the basic Reverso and the Omega DeVille are fine choices. I own the latter. On a strap it serves very well in a pure dress watch role. On the supple mesh-look OE bracelet, it transitions well to sporty casual. The Reverso is and always will be THE iconic JLC. Can't go wrong there. Plus you can play with the case when you're bored. My favourite dress watches tend to be quality vintage pieces, however. Unsurpassed value for money in the genre, IMO. It takes a bit more looking and some homework but the results are more than worth the effort.
post #23198 of 33946

Bawlin - I looked at a Hulk when I stopped in the store the other day.  The green is mesmerizing.  I like the green face better than the 50th Anniversary black face.  I don't think I would call the watch subtle but  I would wear it with a suit no problem.

post #23199 of 33946
Nuke - that mvmnt pic was delicious.

Dino & Nuke - lol @ the airplane stories.
post #23200 of 33946
Quote:
Originally Posted by bawlin View Post

Do you think the Hulk would make for a good candidate to wear either with a suit or casually? I'm having such a hard time deciding on a watch (I'm looking at some IWC's as well) but I do want something that isn't all too "common" (like a regular Sub or GMT). I'm a huge fan of green which is why the Hulk has a certain appeal to me.

Great for casual, not great with a suit.  But if you really don't wear suits that often, maybe you can get a dressy watch for suits at a later date. 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bams View Post

Hello everyone,

 

I could really use some guidance on where to start looking for a dressy watch.

I have looked at a few (JLC reverso or master control, Rolex DJ, Omega DeVille) but maybe I am missing a lot of choices and since I have not seen all those models I just listed, maybe I have the wrong impressions on how they actually are on a wrist.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

I already have a Longiness conquest, but I find it a bit too thick so it does not fit well under my shirt cuffs and maybe not so dressy.

I am going to change jobs and will wear suits more often, so I want (need?) a nice watch to go with that.

The budget is not super high, around 5000 euros max, so I would like to focus on quality in the fundamentals rather than extras (no complication and no precious materials). I have pretty small wrist so something between 35 to 38 would fit better I believe

 

 

Do you have any suggestions?

I will obviously look at them in person afterwards but I don't know where to start.

 

Thank you for the guidance and help

If you wants something very dressy for a suit, I like the idea of a JLC Reverso.  Classic, elegant, and a rectangular watch is a bit off the beaten path.  The bulk of people buy round watches.  Stick with a GT size case and you should be fine.  If I were getting a JLC, the Reverso is so iconic it would be the piece I would have to own.  In a GT size case it is a manual wind.  Not sure if that matters to you, or if you would prefer an automatic.

 

If you want a go anywhere, do anything kind of watch, the Rolex Datejust is ideal.  Its movement is not as finely finished as the JLC, but its a good quality in house movement, its an automatic, and its versatile enough that you can wear it easily with a suit or jeans and a T-shirt.  In addition, unlike the Reverso, you could also wear it to go swimming and at the beach.  

 

Roger also had some interesting alternatives.  

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbarwick View Post

Bawlin - I looked at a Hulk when I stopped in the store the other day.  The green is mesmerizing.  I like the green face better than the 50th Anniversary black face. 

The green face is cool, but I don't find the green bezel is as attractive as the green bezels of the old 50th Anniversary watches.  I think the first watch Rolex has done a great job with in terms of creating a colored bezel is the Blue/Black GMT 2.  

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bams View Post

Thank you very much, the picture are also very helpfull.

 

For my personnal development, could you say a few words why the DJ and DeVille do not match up? As far as I understand they also have manufacture movements? Maybe not the DeVille...

 

Thanks you!

I don't think its a matter of them not matching up.  They are just different and different people here may have different preferences.  The DeVille is a nice watch but wouldn't be my taste.   I think the JLC's movement finishing is finer than what you will find on a Rolex DJ or DeVille.  But I find the DJ, a more rugged and more versatile watch than a MUT/Master Control...and as I already mentioned I'd opt for a Reverso if getting a JLC. 

post #23201 of 33946
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post




 

 

That is one beautiful watch. JLC is very good value for money.

post #23202 of 33946
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

Dino & Nuke - lol @ the airplane stories.

 

Stitch, Glad you liked the airplane story.  Although, I think Mrs. Dino and I were luckier than Nuke, since the person next to us kept his clothes on, and indirectly paid the Mrs. a compliment.  

post #23203 of 33946
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bams View Post

..

I just think that for a dress watch, JLC is just the best option in that price range. The DJ and the DeVille are great watches in themselves, but they are definitely more along the sporty end of the spectrum. If you want a do it all watch, those are definitely great options (as is the 38.5mm aqua terra). But I think that for a dress watch in that price range, JLC just presents a great value proposition. And that movement is just phenomenal.

The Reverso is also great, and I agree with everything Dino said. The only thing about the Reverso is that my favorite models may be a bit too large for your wrist. Otherwise, I think the Reverso is a superb option.

I also really like Roger's suggestions. I would advise looking around a little bit more until you determine what suits you best!
post #23204 of 33946
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

Stitch, Glad you liked the airplane story.  Although, I think Mrs. Dino and I were luckier than Nuke, since the person next to us kept his clothes on, and indirectly paid the Mrs. a compliment.  

HA! too true.
post #23205 of 33946
While not as slender or austere as the JLC MUT, I find this one looks pretty dressy - even with the blue dial: http://www.fototime.com/381E3AF0FFCDD93/orig.jpg
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