or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Watch Appreciation Thread - Page 1466

post #21976 of 39075
Hey guys, recently posted this review over on Watchuseek. Figured I would post it for y'all too if you want to read it! Oh, and it is a review of my Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Howdy partners! Well, I am now in my sixth month of ownership of my Jaeger LeCoultre MUT Moon [hereafter “Moon”], and I figure it is about time to give you fine ladies and gents my review. My review of the Speedy was well received, and to be honest, it is a fun exercise. Plus, I always appreciate reading all the great posts that you fine folk make on this forum!

Before I delve into the deets, let me give you some brief ownership history. As it stands now, I own an Orient Mako, a little quartz Bulova, a Seiko 5, an Orange Monster, an Omega Speedmaster, and the Moon. Departed is my Damasko DC56 [which will be repurchased!] and a JLC Master Control [also may be repurchased]. I have had my hands on Rolex, various Omegas, etc., so I like to think that I am fairly qualified in my assessments.

Enjoy! Also, I apologize in advance for the length!

Pre-Purchase Expectations:

As stated above, I used to owned a JLC MC, and I sold that off to fund the Moon. So at the very least I wanted to fill the hole in my collection that was previously filled by the MC. I also wanted something that was brand new. I purchased my MC second hand, and it always bothered me that some of the little nicks in the case were caused by the previous owner. I am insane like that. I wanted a dress watch, but I wanted something that could be dressed down. So, did it accomplish those goals?

Post-Purchase Pros:

Timekeeping and Movement:

The watch keeps great time. Between +0 to +1 seconds a day. No complaints here. Both JLCs I have owned have absolutely killed it when it comes to keeping good time.

Movement is great. Very nicely decorated for the price point. I wish there was some anglage on the bridges, but for a watch under $10,000, I really cannot complain about the movement and the finishing. The date changes instantaneously at midnight, which I am also a huge sucker for. I think at this price point that is a nice addition.

http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab60/JoshuaMcd6/P1010674.jpg

Case:

The case is legitimately a work of art. It really cannot be described as anything other than a masterpiece. The MUT case is almost painfully elegant. Far and away my favorite part of the watch. The first word that pops into my mind is ‘multifaceted.’

The angles of the case change from the bezel to the caseback around five times (see ghetto diagram). It is a detail that really pops in person, but is difficult to really identify in pictures. I tried my best though in the following picture!



The lugs are also wonderful. Compared to the fairly angular lines of the case, the lugs smoothly sweep downward in a beautifully organic shape. The lugs are very delicate, and match nicely with the fairly narrow bezel. I would not hesitate to call them sensual, as much as I hate to describe watches as being sensual. Hopefully the lady friend never reads this review! I honestly dare you to find a more attractive case for a dress watch.



Dial:

What is there to say about the dial? It really is about as perfect as it gets. The only text on the dial is the “JL,” the words “Jaeger-LeCoultre,” and “Automatique.” No frivolous text here. The lower part of the moonphase subdial has a very fine circular guillochage. And the date ring has a nice almost enamel look to it. It looks quite striking adjacent to the sunburst silver dial. Let us also not forget the hands. As usual, the blued second hand is gorgeous, and the brushed / polished dauphine hands are beautiful. Perhaps I would prefer the hands to be a bit thicker, but there is NO DOUBT that it is not painfully elegant as is.





Crown:

The crown is also beautiful. Very nicely shaped, and very detailed. The crown does have some “con” elements listed below.

Objectively Beautiful:

So this is kind of a silly category, but this is the only descriptor I can think of. There are plenty of watches on this forum, and while there are many that I love, there are many that I dislike. There are some like the Milgauss with its lightning bolt hand and green crystal that are quirky, charming, and oh-so intriguing. But while some may love the Milgauss, others may think it is childish, immature, comical. In the same vein, while I really dig Panerai, there is no doubt that it stirs strong emotions. Same thing with my Orange Monster. I have worn it and people have legitimately wondered what on EARTH I had strapped to my wrist.

On the other hand, this watch… it is absolutely, undeniably, objectively beautiful. I am not saying that it is or should be on everyone’s wish list, but it is a nonconfrontational, elegant, and aesthetically pleasing watch. It is not very quirky, it is very traditional, and it is very well executed. There is no way that someone could look at the Moon and say, “wow, look at that monstrosity.” There may be some who think it is a bit old fogeyish, and I will not deny that. But there is something nice about strapping a watch to your wrist that is not going to be offending anyone. I would feel comfortable wearing it around anyone, anywhere.

Another plus is that the Moon will likely age well. Here is how I look at it. Right now the Moon is an athletic 21-year-old brunette with beautiful, fair skin, some freckles, and a thin frame. How will she look in 20 years? Who knows! That is one of the beautiful things about life. But all things considered, she has the attributes that would enable her to look more like a Cindy Crawford than a Nicole Kidman (see: Omega Forum). There is a much higher chance that my Moon is going to age better than my Orange Monster. That aspect of the Moon really does appeal to me.

Strap:

Strap and deployant are great in my opinion. They both wear very well. I think that the quality of the strap is significantly better than my last JLC. Pics of both included for purpose of comparison.





Post-Purchase Cons:

Crown:

This is the one primary issue I have with the watch. The crown is TINY. Like teeny tiny. I know, I know, it is an automatic, and if you wear it enough, this is a non-issue. But still, setting the time is a major pain in the ass. One good thing though is that it only has one position, so at least it has a sturdy feel. But you know, aesthetically, the crown is just a great size. So it is a bit of a trade off.

Moonphase:

I know this is a bit nit-picky, but the moonphase appears kind of static. Unlike some ‘super high-end’ watches, the moonphase does not have applied stars, nor is the moon applied. I think that a more textured moonphase disc would be more harmonious with the guillochage on the bottom of the subdial and the sunburst texture of the dial itself. Is this a dealbreaker? Absolutely not. But it is definitely not as dynamic as the moonphases on other timepieces.



Versatility:

Do not kid yourself. This is not a versatile watch in the least. I know, I know, you do not buy a JLC Master series watch and think that it is going to take you everywhere. But I owned a Master Control for the better part of a year, and I found it to be FAR more versatile. Maybe it was the thicker bezel, maybe the date window, and maybe the Arabic numerals, but that piece was far more successful when it came to versatility. This one feels a little bit awkward when it comes to dressing it down. Of course, I will still wear it with khaki shorts and a polo, but it definitely does not mesh as well.

In order to wear it casually, I actually switched it to a tan ostrich strap. I really enjoyed wearing it this way, but I recently switched back to the black strap. There is no doubt in my mind that this watch was born to be worn on a black gator strap. I think that a navy gator and a dark brown gator would also be successful, so that will likely be a future purchase. I knicked the lugs a bit trying to change the straps, so I have decided to keep it on the black strap for a while.



“In Between” Comments:

Just some little asides I thought I would throw in, neither negative nor positive necessarily. First off, the lug width is surprisingly large for a thin, 39mm watch. Lug width is 21mm! For comparison, the JLC MC was 40mm in width, and took a 20mm strap. As I said, this is neither a negative nor a positive. It is just something I was a little bit surprised about. When I first looked at the side profile of the watch, it kind of reminded me of one of my heftier friends wearing a white, spread colored shirt and a bowtie for the first time. He looked dapper, but there was a lot of “empty space,” if you catch my drift. I kind of get the same feel when I look at the side profile of the watch. Fortunately, the empty space here is an absolutely beautiful crocodile strap, which is lovely to look at. This is just something I really did not notice until I wore it for a few days!

Another thing. There is no lume. Personally, I would be annoyed if there WAS lume on the watch. But I know that for some of you cats that is a deal breaker.

Another thing I think bears mentioning is that the moonphase and date are set through pushers at ~ 4:00 and 7:00. They are unobtrusive, and they actually look very nice set into the case. In a way it would be nice if the crown had two positions, and rotating the crown clockwise and counter-clockwise set the date and moonphase. In other words, for the watch to function similarly to the FC Slimline Moonphase that just came out. Personally though, I do not mind setting the date and moonphase with pushers. I actually prefer it on this watch, because I would rather not be fiddling with the crown all the time.

Final Thoughts:

All in all, I cannot recommend this watch more. It is an absolutely stunningly beautiful JLC. I know that this review was a bit harsh, but I think people need to be fully informed before they make a purchase of this magnitude. If I were to go back in time, I would do it all over again.

Just one final thought. I have not bonded to this watch as much as I would have hoped yet. With my Speedmaster, I really did bond with it very quickly. But I also think that the Speedy is a much more charming watch. I have not had the chance to really wear the Moon everyday though, although that will be changing soon when I start my new job in September. So I will be sure to keep this thread updated when it comes to describing how I feel about the watch over time.

Edited by Newcomer - 6/17/13 at 5:34am
post #21977 of 39075

Rubbery,

 

I think maybe some replies have mixed up two different subjects!  I don't think anyone is classing Nomos as an obscure independent maker.  But in response to your original question, how about this:  keep your original strap and clasp in the box, and have your new "testicle owner" (too right) order a custom strap for you.  That way she can choose any customisation you want, and you will always have the original watch and strap in unblemished condition.  On the other hand, you will also have a strap that is unique to you, perhaps in an unusual colour, leather or stitching, and/or with an engraving on, say, a deployant clasp.  And if you get another watch later with the same sized lugs, you can move the strap to that one.

 

ScottW,

 

That's a great find.  I think Dino's arguments about independents are definitely sound, but when you can pick up something like that relatively cheaply, from a company that's now been in business a while, and that uses a lot of generic parts, the risk seems negligible.  Anyway, congratulations, I love it.

post #21978 of 39075

Newcomer,

 

Nice review, well done. We need more like this.

 

Cheers

post #21979 of 39075
+1

A quick phone snap of "Old Faithful"; giving me pleasure today for no particular reason.

post #21980 of 39075
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post

This is a good point, and one that I find interesting when surveying StyleForum.

When talking about clothing, there's a definite tendency on SF to value or prize small, independent clothing manufacturers over big firms - hence the appeal of places like Vanda in Singapore, Panta, Howard Yount and Yellow Hook in NY and, of course, a whole range of places in various towns and cities in Italy.

However, when it comes to watches, much of SF has a definite tendency to prefer watch companies that are often owned by large conglomerates such as Swatch, Richemont or LVMH, rather than watches from small, independent ateliers.

Of course, that is a generalisation, but I nonetheless find it quite striking that a lot of people on SF are willing to go to great lengths to try small, often out of the way places so as to get a jacket, suit or tie and to then proudly show their wares to others on SF (not that there's anything wrong with that - I do it, too!), but then with watches, to stick to brands like Omega, Panerai, JLC, Zenith and so on, which are all owned by one or the other aforementioned conglomerates.

It's simple really.

Independents mostly fall into 2 distinct categories - breathtakingly expensive unique pieces or recased ebauches. The latter are often in case designs mimicking the successful models released by other established brands.

The former group precludes most folk for obvious reasons ($$$, or lack thereof), ditto for the latter group (zilch resale value, zilch integrity).

The ones that don't quite fall into either category - e.g. Nomos for low-mid end, Dornblueth for mid-high end, and Grand Seiko for high end - are more in demand, and rightly so.
Edited by apropos - 6/17/13 at 2:22am
post #21981 of 39075
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

Hey guys, recently posted this review over on Watchuseek. Figured I would post it for y'all too if you want to read it!

Thank you for the review! Very honest, but still does not discourage me from getting one smile.gif
post #21982 of 39075
I think there's maybe a sweet spot of value versus the size of the company. RGM and Nomos, both mentioned in this context above, are not something new and unpredictable either. They both now seem like established makers with their own loyal customers and following, and fall at the lower end of the "proper" watch market in terms of price, too. So what's to lose?

As for the re-case ebauche, I think sometimes it's a nice option to have as an entry point. I would happily buy my son a 500 Dollar Tissot, and quite fancy a 1100 Dollar Stowa for myself. But once you get much beyond that, I'd rather spend 2-3k on a nice Nomos that has some originality.

As for the fashion brands, or re-invented brands like Perrelet, they are just not happening for me unless they are offering something truly original. No doubt that's why they are so heavily discounted: I just looked at a retrograde hour regulator from Perrelet just as a novelty. Apart from being rather cheap looking, it's listed at over 9k, which is insane considering what that could buy. It took all of thirty seconds to find it online at 60 per cent off. No need to ask why.
post #21983 of 39075
Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaRubbery View Post

Dear Horological Lords,

 

My soon-to-be-testicles-owner is insistent on buying me a watch when we get engaged. I've been lusting after the Nomos Tangente Glasboden for a very long time, and even tortured myself by trying it on in person while in Europe, only to not buy it! I've been kicking myself ever since. It's beautiful and it fit my wrist absolutely perfectly. 

 

Catch is she wants some form of discrete personalisation to it. Nothing tacky, perhaps just initials or our engagement date. Just something to make it a touch more personal. 

 

She's not going to touch the watch itself (we aren't retards), but she's thinking more about engraving the underside of the clasp, or perhaps embossing the underside of the cordovan strap. 

 

Where would be best to get this done? Is this at all possible? Will I have to order a custom clasp to get this done properly?

Thanks all in advance - I look forward to joining your esteemed ranks!

Cheers,

 

Alex

 

 

http://www.johnwthompson.net/

 

does his engraving by hand. if memory serves me correctly, he also designed the same wedding rings worn by prince charles and princess diana... AND... also did the engraving for THE ring on LOTR.

 

based in Sydney.

 

lmk how it goes. good luck!

post #21984 of 39075
On the subject of re-invented brands, here's a special picture of what Frilly wants for his birthday.

biggrin.gif



In fairness, I think they have some in-house movements now, and they are certainly original...I mean, who else would make this?!
post #21985 of 39075
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

On the subject of re-invented brands, here's a special picture of what Frilly wants for his birthday.

biggrin.gif



In fairness, I think they have some in-house movements now, and they are certainly original...I mean, who else would make this?!

To each his own, but I would not wear that watch.
post #21986 of 39075
I will admit that I totally dig the Graham Chronofighter watches with the cappuccino machine grafted onto the side (though not that particular one). Completely over the top, but cool. I'd never buy one, though. As price rises my taste becomes increasingly conservative. A big cool funky-fun CHEAP watch is something I would go for. A big cool funky-fun PRICEY watch - no way.
post #21987 of 39075
Quote:
Originally Posted by Devoti View Post

Newcomer,

Nice review, well done. We need more like this.

Cheers

Thanks! I will post my Speedmaster Review in here as well then. Also a fairly lengthy review.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NonServiam View Post

Thank you for the review! Very honest, but still does not discourage me from getting one smile.gif

I sure hope not! I just hate, hate, hate gushy reviews. I mean, even things you love in life have aspects that are not ideal. For example, you can love how the crown looks aesthetically. But that does not mean that it is perfect functionally. I hope not to dissuade anyone from purchasing. Imagine what it must be like dating me.

I am glad you enjoyed it!
post #21988 of 39075
great write up, newcomer.

glad to see you switched back to the black strap. wink.gif

also, very glad you made the point about the many angles/facets of the case. that is one of my favorite parts of my squadra as well. i will try and get some pics of that.

in the meantime, from yesterday on the way to NYC.

post #21989 of 39075
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post


It's simple really.

Independents mostly fall into 2 distinct categories - breathtakingly expensive unique pieces or recased ebauches. The latter are often in case designs mimicking the successful models released by other established brands.

The former group precludes most folk for obvious reasons ($$$, or lack thereof), ditto for the latter group (zilch resale value, zilch integrity).

The ones that don't quite fall into either category - e.g. Nomos for low-mid end, Dornblueth for mid-high end, and Grand Seiko for high end - are more in demand, and rightly so.


It depends on how you define "breathtakingly expensive". Speake-Marin, Journe, Hautlence, Moser some Richard Mille pieces, and others are expensive but not in the same class as MB and F, Dufour, Gruebel Forsey and others.

post #21990 of 39075
Beautiful Stitchy, you are really making me want to try on a Squadra the next time I am anywhere close to a JLC dealer.

And I have to say... the black croc strap is really where it is at. The Ostrich is nice to have though. It has darkened substantially from the original pictures.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread