or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Watch Appreciation Thread - Page 1441

post #21601 of 39048
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

+1

I really don't care for a date window by itself on a dress watch.  

Personally, I prefer hand dates with a moonphase.

I will say though, to me, I use my watch as much to check the time as I do to check the date.
post #21602 of 39048

My IWC Mark XII pilot 

 

post #21603 of 39048
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post


Personally, I prefer hand dates with a moonphase.

I will say though, to me, I use my watch as much to check the time as I do to check the date.

 

Same here.  Always seems like I am signing something with the date.   I had surgery a few weeks back and while filling out forms I was more upset I wasn't allowed to wear my watch than about the surgery itself...I needed to know the time and date!  

post #21604 of 39048
Quote:
Originally Posted by kungapa View Post

Regarding ADs and the value chain - I think vertical integration is the next natural step, especially for companies like SWATCH Group.

I recently undertook a bit of a study regarding this for school. Although the study focused especially on ETA no longer supplying ebauche and finished movements, it also shed some light on future overall vertical integration.

Some numbers to illuminate things:

Average finished mechanical movement wholesale cost: CHF120-CHF150 or so, sometimes even lower. EBITDA margin: ~13%

Average Swiss mechanical watch wholesale price: CHF 2222. EBITDA margin ~20%

Average Retail price: around CHF4000. Unsure of margin, since I didn't study it.

This partially explains why it made sense for ETA to stop supplying movements to out-group brands. Additionally, in regards to moving into boutique retail, it is a classic double marginalization problem. If the group has enough volume to create their own retail outlets, it makes perfect sense.

(apologies if it is unclear - these were just a few quick thoughts of what I remembered from a much longer study)

 

Thanks for sharing this, Kungapa.  These are some interesting data points.  If I'm reading the above correctly, it looks like the ADs are capturing much more of the value chain that I had previously thought.  Do you guys know of any other reselling business that can command ~40% gross margins?  No wonder the ADs are getting squeezed out.  Any chance you have the full study laying around that you could send my way?  All this talk about the AD / boutique business model is making me think I ought to update the model I posted a while back...

post #21605 of 39048
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

Personally, I prefer hand dates with a moonphase.
I will say though, to me, I use my watch as much to check the time as I do to check the date.

strong agreement from em on both of these.

on my JLC i like the date window at 3 because it symmetrical to the AM/PM at 9, and together with the small seconds at 6, it makes for a symmetrical look i like a lot.

on my B&M capeland, i dont mind the date, but dont love it either.

on the DJ i used to have i like the date with the cyclos lens, keeps the watch from being to bland imo

on the 112 i specifically wanted a no date watch, but i still check it a few times a day when i need the date.
post #21606 of 39048
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

Sounds like Stitchy needs to book a trip to Vegas (although truthfully, I'd never go this time of year...I wen't once in May and it was 108F).  Still some of the best most concentrated watch shopping you can find.  I was there in October and the Rolex Boutique had everything you can imagine on display other than SS Daytonas.  There are also boutiques for IWC, VC, Breguet, Breitling, Omega, Cartier (not sure if I left any out), and that doesn't count the AD's that sell all of the above, plus AP, PP, Lange, etc.  No good deals to be had there, but still fun to look. 

 

W-oh! TWAT get-together in Las Vegas!

post #21607 of 39048
Quote:
Originally Posted by Devoti View Post

IMG_1390.JPG 1812k .JPG file



My daily watch, a Moeris with 13''' movement


Are you mr_macgee?

I love military style and pilot watches particularly those connected to wwii, I don't know a lot about this one. Looks very similar to the Dirty Dozen except maybe the hands. Apparently it is not though.
post #21608 of 39048

Am in San Francisco for literally about seven hours, and had three hours to kill (don't ask me, I didn't come up with the scheduling).  So walked around the Union Square area and wouldn't you know it, I wandered into Tourbillon and Shreve.  Found an interesting women's piece at Shreve: Patek's 7071 in white gold, the "ladies first chronograph" (as they term it).  Diamonds are inside the crystal versus right on the bezel, interesting touch.  But even more interesting was the relative size: yes, it's a cushion case so those tend to be bigger, but check it out right beside my 36mm 3970P:

 

 

 

(All credit for the incredibly crappy picture goes to my Blackberry 9900).

 

Relatively large looking case, 'no?  Official case dimensions are 35mm by 39mm.

 

Requisite picture by Union Square.  Lovely afternoon.  Cliche, I understand, but must not leave my heart in San Fran and all that.

 

post #21609 of 39048
Quote:
Originally Posted by Devoti View Post

My IWC Mark XII pilot 


Now that's a nice one!
post #21610 of 39048

Ah, that Mark XII is such a classic.

post #21611 of 39048
Quote:
Originally Posted by Devoti View Post

My IWC Mark XII pilot 



Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Now that's a nice one!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerP View Post

Ah, that Mark XII is such a classic.
Serious question - why does IWC keep rolling out new pilot's watches? It is hard to see how the new designs improve the old ones and in some cases, you have a real decline (the new one is awful). Do people collect them and thus each new model generates additional sales? Or do they just like giving a new "Mark" to incremental changes and updates? For me, the highpoint was the XV on a bracelet, but the XII on a bracelet is also great.
post #21612 of 39048
its all about $ imo. new model new interest new sales. most people are not as picky as those of us here and have no idea what older models even looked like.
post #21613 of 39048
I think it benefits collectors of the XII and XV though.
post #21614 of 39048
Quote:
Originally Posted by no frills View Post

(All credit for the incredibly crappy picture goes to my Blackberry 9900).

Two words... i. Phone.
post #21615 of 39048

Thanks and I agree, my Mark XII is so timeless, I keep looking at other pilot watches and for me my Mark XII seems to be the default. The only thing I want from it is about 2mm of more diameter which they did with the Mark XV. I'm not a fan of the newer models especially the recents versions, except maybe the XV.

 

I definetely think the IWC pilot was a sleeper for a long time and then really came into demand and fame, I believe IWC made an attempt to capitalize on the fame with introducing newer models, larger sizes to appease the current trends. I don't agree with it

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread