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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Page 1388

post #20806 of 37142
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

Understood.  The Master Control is a good bet for versatility, but if it doesn't have enough personality, then how about this?  Available used in your price range, certainly smart enough for formal wear, but flip it over and it's good enough for fighting on horseback!  Certainly setting you apart from the crowd, certainly versatile, and to my mind the one, original, absolutely JLC-only watch.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


iirc correctly i tried this on. it was freaking tiny on me.
post #20807 of 37142
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottcw View Post


It doesn't have to be new. I know it is blasphemy, but Rolex does not appeal to me. I am looking at JLC watches in my budget.


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Regarding your comment on Rolex... BOOOOOO !!!  Just kidding.  I was only throwing it out there because in the $3-4K you could easily do a Datejust, which is very versatile.  However, JLC makes some fantastic watches and I'm sure you can easily find something great from them in your price range.

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

Also, I am questioning why you are so intent on the Habrings. Would you mind explaining why you are drawn to them? 

+1  

They make a decent looking watch, but I don't really see the draw myself.  

 

I know he isn't a fan of Rolex, and maybe not such a fan of the Speedy Pro, and is considering a JLC....to me JLC, Rolex, Omega, or maybe even an IWC are all no brainers.  I can't see spending good money on a watch if parts availability could be a problem a few years down the road (but to each his own).  Stick with the major brands and for the most part its a non-issue.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by DLJr View Post

But you do seem drawn to Habring2, so perhaps there should be less listening to us, and more going on what you seem to be drawn towards.

+1 

Some times the heart wants what it wants....perhaps that is what he must follow.

post #20808 of 37142
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottcw View Post


I like the small company aesthetic with a lot of handwork rather than a large company. Sort of like choosing a small luthier to hand make a guitar instead of buying a Gibson or Fender. Gibson and Fender makes some great guitars, but I am drawn to the little guy.

I also love their very clean look. I don't like clutter.


Maybe it would help if I share what I do like...

This JLC. I like how they were able to fit so much without appearing cluttered. If I were to nitpick, I don't care for the gold markers/hands. I would prefer a monochromatic look. And it is 34mm, which seems small.

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This Rolex (yes, I know I said Rolex doesn't appeal, this is an exception). Again, clean, uncluttered, timeless (pun intended).

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Hi Scott,

 

unlike with certain guitars, in the price range you are considering for a watch, even with smaller companies you probably are not getting any real hand workmanship.  Most very small independents in this price range rely on a variety of sources and simply cobble together a watch.  Sorry, but I've seen watches like this and I don't believe there is as much hand workmanship by this manufacturer as they would like you to believe. 

 

As for the JLC chronograph in your photo, I think at 34 mm on a 7.5 inch wrist, its going to look like you borrowed your girlfriend's watch.  If you stick with a round case don't go below 36 mm.  Square or rectangular cases wear larger and so you have more room to deviate when it comes to case size on those.

 

Wish you luck on your hunt for the right watch.

post #20809 of 37142
Reading up on Habring, it seems they are using Ebauche movements. Although the ebauche movement industry is currently undergoing a drastic restructuring, it would be safe to assume they use either Sellita or ETA SA. In either case, parts should be easy to come by.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
In contrast to other manufacturers we do not order finished movements and simply put them into a shell. We usually work with so-called “ebauches‿, i.e. basic movements with no decoration whatsoever. Whether hand-made engravings as with the “Carinthian‿ or diversified decorative grinding - these are always applied after the components have passed the receiving inspection. Galvanising treatment such as gold plating or rhodium plating serves to protect the surfaces. We even grind screws by hand.

On principle, movements could be installed after these steps; however, we improve each subassembly in detail. This is achieved by replacing individual components with ones of higher quality. One example would be, for instance, the "Triovis" regulation-system which guarantees a far superior accuracy than the standard system. The balance wheel cannot be "studded", i.e. the spiral attached externally, before this component is mounted. Balance wheels and other parts of the escapement do not belong to the ebauche subassembly, neither do anti-shock components nor the winding spring. As a matter of principle, only the best quality of each particular component will find a place in a Habring². For instance, balance wheel, anchor and escapement wheel must be of chronometer quality.

Quality is improved continuously both during and after movement assembly. This process includes, among other things, optimising the endshake of each wheel or other components, adjusting the escapement, balancing the balance wheel, etc.
post #20810 of 37142
Also, piggybacking on Dino's point, I feel like you have to distinguish watches from other consumer goods.

Let me make a quick example. Lets say you commission a suit from Rubinacci. Or a pair of shoes from Delos. There is a finite life to that product, whether it be 10 years, 20 years, or maybe a bit more. The suit may need alterations, or the shoes may need to be resoled. Yes, you could ship them back to the manufacturer. But a good cobbler should have no issue taking care of you. Or a good tailor should have no problem making the appropriate alterations. The risk that is accompanied by the "romanticism" of purchasing from a small operation is not very large in these circumstances.

Now, lets switch over to watches. A watch will tick for a while, but it requires maintenance. It requires maintenance every 5 years or so, at the most (well, that can be a debate for another day). It will need spare parts as well. A watch will also last for I don't even know how long if it is well-cared for. With the current materials that are being used, I really do not know how long watches made now will last, but I am sure they will hold up better than what was produced in the 20s and 30s. A watch is something you will likely pass onto your children one day. With all that in mind, part of what you are paying for when you buy from a larger brand is the assurance that all of these parts will be available down the road. Namely with Patek, they effectively warrant that they will be able to fix your watch, for the right price. The Habrings that you are looking at WILL need parts. And although most of them are not finished by hand, they do make modifications on the movements. Modifications that likely will not be available if Habring ever goes defunct.

This is more of a buyer beware type of thing. I want to venture into Indy land one day. But it will be at that point in time when I have already accumulated what I want from less risky sources.

I understand the desire to buy from a small outfitter, I am just trying to illustrate that watches are a different type of product that guitars, shoes, suits, et alii.

And personally, I like Habrings, and I think that the doppelchrono especially is an incredibly cool piece.
post #20811 of 37142
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottcw View Post


This Rolex (yes, I know I said Rolex doesn't appeal, this is an exception). Again, clean, uncluttered, timeless (pun intended).


i have an explorer...absolutely love it. I wear mine with a suit, with a t shirt and jeans, and with nothing at all uhoh.gif

Personally, id get one of those over a small independent company...but i also REALLY consider resell value into my purchase.
post #20812 of 37142
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

iirc correctly i tried this on. it was freaking tiny on me.

it is. They go for REALLY reasonable too...which is why i wanted to kop one awhile back. but it was just too small for my liking.
post #20813 of 37142
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

Hi Scott,
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
unlike with certain guitars, in the price range you are considering for a watch, even with smaller companies you probably are not getting any real hand workmanship.  Most very small independents in this price range rely on a variety of sources and simply cobble together a watch.  Sorry, but I've seen watches like this and I don't believe there is as much hand workmanship by this manufacturer as they would like you to believe. 

As for the JLC chronograph in your photo, I think at 34 mm on a 7.5 inch wrist, its going to look like you borrowed your girlfriend's watch.  If you stick with a round case don't go below 36 mm.  Square or rectangular cases wear larger and so you have more room to deviate when it comes to case size on those.

Wish you luck on your hunt for the right watch.

dropping knowledge per usual. agree with all that. not much more to say.

that being said, imo, dont let anyone tell you what to buy. ask questions about things you are unsure of, gather data, and then decide based on what appeals most to you. do that, and you have the highest chance of being confident and happy with your purchase, whatever it may be.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekS View Post

it is. They go for REALLY reasonable too...which is why i wanted to kop one awhile back. but it was just too small for my liking.

BFAM!
post #20814 of 37142
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

that being said, imo, dont let anyone tell you what to buy. ask questions about things you are unsure of, gather data, and then decide based on what appeals most to you. do that, and you have the highest chance of being confident and happy with your purchase, whatever it may be.

Exactly what I am hoping for from the generous knowledge of others.

I will say that my hesitancy with vintage is not knowing reputable dealers and not knowing anything about what to look for with respect to movements, authenticity, etc. Buying new from an AD eliminates those concerns.
post #20815 of 37142
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottcw View Post

Exactly what I am hoping for from the generous knowledge of others.

I will say that my hesitancy with vintage is not knowing reputable dealers and not knowing anything about what to look for with respect to movements, authenticity, etc. Buying new from an AD eliminates those concerns.

very good. smile.gif

that is a fair point, but you can always ask questions to the dealer, ask people here, and get references when buying vintage. i understand you are uncomfortable with that, i was very hesitant about going outside an AD as well, but if you poke around a bit, it will open up your options significantly. just make sure you are comfortable with the transaction. i had a lot of hand holding when i bought non AD, both from the seller, and people here, and i am glad i went for it.
post #20816 of 37142
Quote:
Originally Posted by kungapa View Post

Reading up on Habring, it seems they are using Ebauche movements. Although the ebauche movement industry is currently undergoing a drastic restructuring, it would be safe to assume they use either Sellita or ETA SA. In either case, parts should be easy to come by.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
In contrast to other manufacturers we do not order finished movements and simply put them into a shell. We usually work with so-called “ebauches‿, i.e. basic movements with no decoration whatsoever. Whether hand-made engravings as with the “Carinthian‿ or diversified decorative grinding - these are always applied after the components have passed the receiving inspection. Galvanising treatment such as gold plating or rhodium plating serves to protect the surfaces. We even grind screws by hand.

On principle, movements could be installed after these steps; however, we improve each subassembly in detail. This is achieved by replacing individual components with ones of higher quality. One example would be, for instance, the "Triovis" regulation-system which guarantees a far superior accuracy than the standard system. The balance wheel cannot be "studded", i.e. the spiral attached externally, before this component is mounted. Balance wheels and other parts of the escapement do not belong to the ebauche subassembly, neither do anti-shock components nor the winding spring. As a matter of principle, only the best quality of each particular component will find a place in a Habring². For instance, balance wheel, anchor and escapement wheel must be of chronometer quality.

Quality is improved continuously both during and after movement assembly. This process includes, among other things, optimising the endshake of each wheel or other components, adjusting the escapement, balancing the balance wheel, etc.

Its not necessarily the movement that will be an issue with respect to parts, its small proprietary parts that get worn out or damaged.  My friend's watch that he could not get repaired was powered by an ETA movement, the problem was a broken bezel that could not be replaced or repaired.  It still told time, but it looked like crap.  

post #20817 of 37142
Took the stickers off and sized it today.
photo13di.jpg

Regards.
post #20818 of 37142
Very nice! I hope it brings you much happiness!
post #20819 of 37142
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

Very nice! I hope it brings you much happiness!

+1. look beautiful.
post #20820 of 37142

 

 

Sometimes you bump into timepieces that take your breath away, even when you're wearing your grail.

 

 

Which one do you prefer?  Left: perpetual calendar chronograph in platinum (Patek ref 3970P) or perpetual calendar minute repeater (Patek ref 3974J)?

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