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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Page 1330

post #19936 of 33551
My black tie watch is a gold vintage Ulysse Nardin manual wind. Time only, very thin, 32 or 33mm with a 16 mm strap. Alas it is in Chicago and I'm in Hong Kong or I would post a photo.
post #19937 of 33551
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

I tried to swing the Frills shot, but unfortunately, I think you have me beat on it worship.gif

I am very attracted to my MUT Moon. It tracks the days of the month, and the phases of the moon--both complications relate only to the month. In a similar vein, this is what bothers me about watches like the Omega Speedmaster Moonphase, or the Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar. In the case of the former, you are pairing arguably the most sedentary and poetic complications with the most erratic. In the case of the latter, you are taking a pilot's watch, which is all about being "of the moment," and placing a complication that is completely irrelevant to its primary purpose.

One of the more interesting watches I have seen as of late has been the Habring2 Foudroyante with Secondes de Mort. What a fascinating combination!

Just a couple of the evening thoughts.

 

Newcomer - I am a big fan of your MUT moon!  Congrats again!

 

There is something to be said about whether aesthetics sing to you or not - and the combination of specific complications is part of this.  For several posts, Dino944 stated how the Patek 5059's choice of cutting off the "15" and "17" in the retrograde date function didn't sit well with him visually: I had the same visceral reaction when I saw the 5059, and I really tried to like it as it has great virtues (the officer/hunter's case is to die for).  I tried wearing it over and over again (six times) - but at the end it didn't sing to me as "perfect" versus, say, the 3970's overall design and choice of complications.

 

Similarly, I checked out the 5496P before deciding on the 3970P.  This monster retails for $115,000 (still in production!), could probably be acquired for under $100K, and features a slim profile but a larger (for Patek!) case at 39.5mm.  It WEARS and LOOKS large, especially on me.  And yet...

 

 

 

 

 

When I wore it on my wrist a few things bothered me:

 

1.  There it is again, look at how the "15" and "17" are cut off by the leap year window.  This is the successor to the 5050, and that feels much more balanced to me.  I am sure it is a deliberate design decision to cut the "15" and "17" off because the 5050 is SMALLER at 36mm and yet does NOT cut off the "15" and "17":

 

 

 

2.  Check the strange spacing comparison between the "day" window of the 5496 at "9" and the "month" window at "3."  For whatever reason the fonts seem differently sized or spaced, so that the "day" fonts are bigger and spaced further apart while the "month" fonts are packed more tightly together.  Threw me off a bit.

 

Check how the 5050's fonts are much more symmetrical.

 

3.  Finally, there just seemed to be a lot of empty space in the 5496's dial.  Is it a function of trying to preserve the 5050's "relatively ascetic" look while enlarging the case diameter by 3.5mm?  Maybe.  Still, it felt too empty.  I almost prefer a simple, clean Calatrava face than adding stuff that don't quite mix well and leave me... wanting (to Newcomer's point).

 

Anyway, these were my niggly thoughts about the 5496P.  I'm sure some people love it.  If it sings to you, that's fantastic.  It's got to feel perfect for you, there must be no tradeoffs, there can't be a single feeling of "man this watch is awesome, but...." ... not at these price points.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

that sounds just like my retirement plan when i refi my house to buy a high complication PP.

 

What a coincidence, I just refi'd my house......................................... bounce2.gif

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChicagoRon View Post

If I bought that PP 3970P I couldn't afford to go to any formal events anymore... It would look great on my wrist as I sit at home eating ramen noodles and watching Wife Swap reruns, though icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

 

That's kind of how I keep the calories at a minimum.  Wait.  Each pack of Ramen has 700 calories and lots of sodium. Well, Nissin's Ramen at least.  Beef flavor.  

 

And I like eating two packs at a time... 

 

Oh man. Now I have to rethink this whole ramen diet...censored.gif

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by DLJr View Post

If I catch you at a black tie event and that watch isn't sitting beneath your shirt cuff I will tease you mercilessly Frills. Of course I will then oogle the watch.

Am I only only one who perfers small, simple, "uncomplicated" watches for black tie?

 

Jacket cuff, jacket cuff, DLJr!  See how careful I was in the post above to write "jacket cuff"!  happy.gif

 

There is totally an argument to be made for small, simple watches for black tie!

post #19938 of 33551
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChicagoRon View Post

If I bought that PP 3970P I couldn't afford to go to any formal events anymore... It would look great on my wrist as I sit at home eating ramen noodles and watching Wife Swap reruns, though icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post


that sounds just like my retirement plan when i refi my house to buy a high complication PP.

 

 

I don't know if he watches trailer-park TV, but there is evidence that Frilly has indeed taken steps in that direction.  And he's bought three of the damn things.  The Daytona appears to have been relegated to "daily ramen beater"...

 

 

 

lurker[1].gif

post #19939 of 33551
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChicagoRon View Post

My black tie watch is a gold vintage Ulysse Nardin manual wind. Time only, very thin, 32 or 33mm with a 16 mm strap. Alas it is in Chicago and I'm in Hong Kong or I would post a photo.

 

Bravo to you for wearing a 32 or 33mm piece in this day and age of ever-enlarging watch faces!  Love that!

cheers.gif 

post #19940 of 33551
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

 

I don't know if he watches trailer-park TV, but there is evidence that Frilly has indeed taken steps in that direction.  And he's bought three of the damn things.  The Daytona appears to have been relegated to "daily ramen beater"...

 

 

 

lurker%5B1%5D.gif

 

HAHAHAHA I forgot that I posted that photo.  Thanks for the reminder, mimo!

 

The 3970P is a fairly recent acquisition and for the record, I did trade out one piece that my wife didn't wear at all to defray the cost. I am not a big believer in keeping a watch unworn - especially the ones that go for eye-watering prices.  At least once a week or maybe start thinking about giving that thing to someone who will love it more!


Also, the guy who sold me the 3970P was standing at a corner in NYC, opened his trenchcoat, and just offered me a deal I couldn't refuse.....

 

thumbs-up.gif

post #19941 of 33551
Haha I couldn't resist Frills.
post #19942 of 33551
Quote:
Originally Posted by no frills View Post

At least once a week or maybe start thinking about giving that thing to someone who will love it more!

I call first dibs on loving it more!
post #19943 of 33551
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChicagoRon View Post

My black tie watch is a gold vintage Ulysse Nardin manual wind. Time only, very thin, 32 or 33mm with a 16 mm strap. Alas it is in Chicago and I'm in Hong Kong or I would post a photo.

i dont think i will ever have the need for a black tie watch, but i have always wanted a thin gold watch like that for my dressy occasions.
post #19944 of 33551
See, I have always been of the belief that one should not wear a watch with black tie.
post #19945 of 33551
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

See, I have always been of the belief that one should not wear a watch with black tie.

That's the traditional approach, but I don't go anywhere without a watch. So if the occasion calls for black tie, the watch will be simple, elegant and understated.

post #19946 of 33551
Black tie was the first thing that popped into my head when I saw this in person.



post #19947 of 33551
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChicagoRon View Post

Question on Vintage watches -

What are people's thoughts on aftermarket parts?

I went out of my way on my vintage to use a dealer with a huge reputation for keeping everything original when they refurbish - but is there any price-point where newer face or replacement hands are acceptable if you just like the watch? If you buy something on eBay and get a good deal, do you have it opened and checked, or just accept it if you like it.

For me originality is crucial on watches (and vintage cars).  A watch or car is only original once.  If you change something, you may or may not be able to get an original part later.  For me if something was severely damaged and I still wanted to use it or it had sentimental value, and I had to get replacement parts I would try to get NOS parts first, maybe aftermarket if I had not choice, but then yes I would replace the parts so that it would still be wearabl/useable.  However, I would never buy aftermarket parts to save myself some money.  If original parts cost more, maybe I would have to save up depending on my income and the cost, but thats just how I am.  When buying, collecting, or servicing, we have to do what we are comfortable with.  I am a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to condition, originality, service so those are areas where I am not flexible.  But some would say that is a fault with me...and that I could have more "toys" if I weren't such a stickler for certain things.  Then again, sometimes its the search to get the most perfect item possible (with all documentation) that makes the chase part of the fun. 

 

I have never bought anything expensive on Ebay.  I'm just not comfortable with buying a big ticket item there.  But thats just me lots of people are very happy with their ebay purchases. 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilovelobbs View Post


Thank you DINO - your insight and opinion much appreciated.  Happy to return the favour if you need any advice on high end-shoes.

 

As promised, the Montblanc I wore into London today..

 

Thanks for the kind words and I may take you up on the fine shoe advice someday.  BTW, I really like how you have incorporated your love of shoes into your accessories...nice cufflinks.

post #19948 of 33551
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

See, I have always been of the belief that one should not wear a watch with black tie

than what will you look at to not be bored to death while you are there?
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottcw View Post

Black tie was the first thing that popped into my head when I saw this in person.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



that is lovely.
post #19949 of 33551
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLJr View Post

Haha I couldn't resist Frills.

 

I would have felt let down if you hadn't responded to that post of mine about "watches slipping discreetly into your cuff" hahaha!  It is like a tradition of ours now!

 

Speaking of "not being able to resist," here are a few more pics.  How could I resist when my 3970P showed me her perfectly proportioned subdials and silky smooth platinum case?

 

 

 

And when she turned around and showed me her display back, as if she was wearing ultra-sheer Lululemon yoga pants, well, I was done for!

 

 

 

At first I was unsure of whether 3970J would feel uncomfortable sharing me with 3970P, but fortunately we are in an accepting, open relationship.  

 

For the shoe enthusiasts, in this thread, here is a pic of me figuring out whether it was better to wear 3970J or 3970P with my new pair of Corthay Arcas (in lie de vin or "the color of wine" - I love how the burgundy and black swirl around the shoe - Pierre Corthay does masterful work with this).

 

 

 

And what did the wife have to say about all this?  Well, she borrows my 3970J quite often.  And, less than an hour after I brought the 3970P back home, it was already on her wrist!

 

 

post #19950 of 33551
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottcw View Post

Black tie was the first thing that popped into my head when I saw this in person.



A variant of this model is my grail dress watch. Vacheron knows how to do ultrathin. The version I like is the Extra-plate in white gold. It is otherwise very similar, and has an applied Maltese Cross but printed hour markers. I posted it very early in this thread.
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