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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Page 1248

post #18706 of 34700
Quote:
Originally Posted by no frills View Post

 

But here's the thing: I've stated my clear preference for the 3940 versus the 5140.  I feel that the relative proportions of the case size and subdial letterings for the 3940 work better than the 5140 (photo from Mech at PuristSpro):

 

 

 

I think the larger letterings work for the 5040 (which I have too), but because of the unique tonneau shape:

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

But what really comes across as a bit "off" to me about the 5140 is that squished up "27" in the date/moonphase subdial:

 

 

 

Which, interestingly enough, does NOT show up in the 5136/1J, despite the smaller case size (36/37mm versus the 5140's 39mm) and the larger letters in the other subdials:

 

I know I may be acting a bit unnecessarily nitpicky about this, and if someone wants to give me a 5140P for free I'm happy to own it.biggrin.gif

 

Just wanted to share my nitpicky thoughts with you folks.

IMHO each of those pieces is beautiful and their respective dials/fonts work well for each of them.  Whenever a company puts a movement from a smaller watch into a larger case they have to do something to compensate and the subdials or date windows etc from looking like they are set too close to the center of the watch.  Hence, sometimes hour markers get larger as they do at the 3 & 9 on the 5140 (compared to the smaller markers at 3& 9 on the 3940).  I think if they had stuck with smaller font it would have seemed out of proportion to the new larger case and dial, and then it might create a somewhat stark or barren looking dial. 

 

I agree the Tonneau case seems ideally suited for larger font.  Its a very unusual case, especially for Patek.  I more commonly see that case shape (or variety of case shapes associated with VC and Cartier).   While the Tonneau is still dressy, I find its a bit more relaxed and whimsical than the expected round Patek.  I think its a case shape that is very under appreciated and I admire your choice of going with something thats so different from their signature round cases.

 

As for the squished 5 and 27, I can understand your not liking it.  Although, I think they handled it quite well, and IMHO its much nicer looking than when they cut out part of a number on the 5059.  Just my 2 cents.  Always great seeing photos of your perpetual calendars.

post #18707 of 34700

Agree with the Stitchmeister above.

 

Going back to the "five watches, one maker" discussion, I think my greedy face could find five things I desire from most decent makers.  Certainly all of the traditional "big three" make or have made enough to make a "collection" in their own right - were I wealthy and extravagant enough - and looking at Frilly's insane PP collection makes me drool.

 

But in terms of balance and design (and of course it's always going to be in the eye of the beholder), reading through this thread and then countless other pictures, reviews and advertisements, has pointed me firmly at two others:  A Lange (again, very much a rich man's habit I'm sure), and Jaeger Le Coultre (rich enough, but perhaps more realistic for more people).  I actually find their complicated piece quite similar in philosophy sometimes - either very symmetrical in proportion, or very deliberately asymmetrical, with a subtle balancing compensation.  

 

Everyone has their thing, and every maker probably makes something I think is beautiful.  But JLC strikes my ignorant brain as being very special design within the realms of realistic attainment.

post #18708 of 34700
post #18709 of 34700
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post
I reread my earlier reply, which I find now to be rather brusque. I apologise as that was not my intent, but typing on a phone is hell.

Anyway, with a gold linen finish dial like that I would stick with dark non-brown colours - black, navy, dark green. I would go large reptile. I don't think there is a way to successfully "casualise" or "sportify" this watch if that is what you are looking for.
Nice!! Oh man. My wife to be would kill me if I ever surprised her with a perpetual calendar.

 

Don't worry about it, I appreciate all help I can get. I think I want to "casualise" it at least a little bit, and I was also thinking that adding a gator strap would be nice. 

 

I thought a mid-brown/tan gator strap would be nice.. You don't think the colors would play well together? Would a black gator be better?

post #18710 of 34700
lookin good, moo. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #18711 of 34700
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

Agree with the Stitchmeister above.

 

Going back to the "five watches, one maker" discussion, I think my greedy face could find five things I desire from most decent makers.  Certainly all of the traditional "big three" make or have made enough to make a "collection" in their own right - were I wealthy and extravagant enough - and looking at Frilly's insane PP collection makes me drool.

 

But in terms of balance and design (and of course it's always going to be in the eye of the beholder), reading through this thread and then countless other pictures, reviews and advertisements, has pointed me firmly at two others:  A Lange (again, very much a rich man's habit I'm sure), and Jaeger Le Coultre (rich enough, but perhaps more realistic for more people).  I actually find their complicated piece quite similar in philosophy sometimes - either very symmetrical in proportion, or very deliberately asymmetrical, with a subtle balancing compensation.  

 

Everyone has their thing, and every maker probably makes something I think is beautiful.  But JLC strikes my ignorant brain as being very special design within the realms of realistic attainment.

+100. I need more monies so I don't have to decide between JLC models.

post #18712 of 34700

Terrific wrist shot of that Speedy, Moo.

post #18713 of 34700
Thanks guys!

Still amazed at the iPhone's camera inlove.gif
post #18714 of 34700
Also: nice jacket, Moo.
post #18715 of 34700
Can anyone recommend a web shop with a decent selection of 18mm NATO or ZULU straps that ships to the US? I tried Gnomon and Strapcode (and maybe something called cheapnatostraps?), but they mostly have 20 and 22mm straps. I've found a couple of European sites with straps that would work, but they don't ship to the US.

I'm trying to find something in Swedish flag colors. I picked up this one from Amazon, but the blue is too dark - almost black under fluorescent lights - and the yellow is too bright, almost verging on neon; I'm looking for something closer to a medium blue and gold. I also prefer matte hardware, but that's probably being too picky.



Ok, I'll stop clogging this thread with noob questions about my plebe watch now. shog[1].gif
post #18716 of 34700
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post

IMO, Lange's practice is good for perceived value and laying down trump cards in heated WIS discussions, but not so good if you're planning on keeping your watch for 30 years and more importantly - if reliability is a concern. I like the fact that PP keeps making incremental improvements to the cal. 240, attempting to perfect it instead of reinventing the wheel for every new model.

Knock on wood, should PP go belly up I know there will be a ready supply of modules and parts for the base 240 calibre. Can't say that about Lange. Now magnify that potential issue a million times or so and you have the situation with most independents.

I know I have said before that I would love a Dornblueth but that's really only because the vast majority carry (beautifully refinished) Unitas - easy to service, rock solid reliability. I nearly got a Quintus Klassik but on second thought I think I may have dodged a bullet. The only other true independent I would consider seriously - because I still have moments of temporary insanity - might be Roger Smith.

In theory an interesting point.  However, I highly doubt Lange would go belly up, especially since they are a part of Richemont, and in the eyes of some it crown jewel.  Thats being said, some of their movements have been in production for quite a while also.  The movement for the Lange 1 has been in production for more than 20 years, the Lange 1 Moonphase more than 10 years, the 1815 I believe about 15 years.  Some of the variations on those have not been in production as long, but I would think there is an ample supply of parts for those watches.  Especially since companies under Richemont have a tradition of servicing and taking care of older watches.  Companies such as Cartier will buy back, restore and service any of their watches made PRIOR to 1970, and companies like VC will service their watches no matter how old it is, and if the part is not available they will source it, or make it.  A VC forum moderator got a yardsale find on a 1950's triple date (maybe also with a moonphase) and it was in rough shape.  He knew it was one of a very small batch of that model made.   He decided to restore it and sent it to VC in Switzerland.  They did a search and contacted all of their ADs and service centers, and even old service accounts and they located a NOS original dial for that model at very old service shop IIRC in Amsterdam.  I was pretty impressed that VC searched and contacted ADs and even old service accounts to find a NOS dial that was nearly 60 years old.  The guy paid a pretty penny, but he said it was worth it when the watch came back to him.  VC has the backing of Richemont and tracked down something from 60 years ago when production was quite small for any of the Big Three. 

 

I could see the parts sourcing issue being a bigger problem with independents.  Sure one can go with an independent that uses an ETA or Unitas as a base movement.  They are good solid work horses, and parts are plentiful.  However, to me its like buying an entry level BMW and then spending $30K on customizing it.  Yes, its going to have unique attributes, but I'd rather buy $65,000 car thats a real $65,000 car rather than something that still has a lot of entry level BMW to it.  I realize cars and watches are not always the best examples.  Just explaining why at a certain price range, I would be less likely to consider an independant when there are great watches available from Lange, Patek, AP, VC, JLC, and others. 

post #18717 of 34700
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Moo View Post

Thanks guys!
Still amazed at the iPhone's camera inlove.gif

with the proper patience, for the right applications, it can take amazing shots. do you use a camera app (i use camera+) or the stock camera?
---
as to the 5 watches one maker mention, there are many many makers i would happily own up to a dozen of their pieces. i have about 50 catalogues from different makers in my closet and there are hundreds of amazing watches in those pages. i will agree with mimo that JLC does have an abundance of pieces i would be honored to have.
post #18718 of 34700



Pics of the Casa Fag Reverso on a 3 month old bespoke handstitched strap. I didnt like the workmanship of the Casa but I co-opted the foldover tabs near the lugs. Only, I changed them to a B shape as a sort of monogramme.

Tucked into the breast pocket of a bespoke uncanvassed linen DB suit. Even the cloth is a bespoke run with WBill (details in the Unfunded thread - http://www.styleforum.net/t/56404/unfunded-liabilities-a-k-a-the-cloth-thread/5505#post_6187871
post #18719 of 34700
Nice speedy moo! Sapphire sandwich?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaplan View Post

^ That one has a slight Manara vibe

imgmilo-manara5.jpg
More Milo (Click to show)
Milo-Manara-1.jpg

Milo_Manara_Vila_Viniteca.jpg

Milo-Manara-785x587.jpeg

The JLC was part of a homage series to Mucha, but I must admit Manara does bring something similar yet different to the table... especially with #3, which I guess is kind of golden shower meets Klimt? happy.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

In theory an interesting point.  However, I highly doubt Lange would go belly up, especially since they are a part of Richemont, and in the eyes of some it crown jewel.  Thats being said, some of their movements have been in production for quite a while also.  The movement for the Lange 1 has been in production for more than 20 years, the Lange 1 Moonphase more than 10 years, the 1815 I believe about 15 years.  Some of the variations on those have not been in production as long, but I would think there is an ample supply of parts for those watches.  Especially since companies under Richemont have a tradition of servicing and taking care of older watches.  Companies such as Cartier will buy back, restore and service any of their watches made PRIOR to 1970, and companies like VC will service their watches no matter how old it is, and if the part is not available they will source it, or make it.  A VC forum moderator got a yardsale find on a 1950's triple date (maybe also with a moonphase) and it was in rough shape.  He knew it was one of a very small batch of that model made.   He decided to restore it and sent it to VC in Switzerland.  They did a search and contacted all of their ADs and service centers, and even old service accounts and they located a NOS original dial for that model at very old service shop IIRC in Amsterdam.  I was pretty impressed that VC searched and contacted ADs and even old service accounts to find a NOS dial that was nearly 60 years old.  The guy paid a pretty penny, but he said it was worth it when the watch came back to him.  VC has the backing of Richemont and tracked down something from 60 years ago when production was quite small for any of the Big Three. 

I could see the parts sourcing issue being a bigger problem with independents.  Sure one can go with an independent that uses an ETA or Unitas as a base movement.  They are good solid work horses, and parts are plentiful.  However, to me its like buying an entry level BMW and then spending $30K on customizing it.  Yes, its going to have unique attributes, but I'd rather buy $65,000 car thats a real $65,000 car rather than something that still has a lot of entry level BMW to it.  I realize cars and watches are not always the best examples.  Just explaining why at a certain price range, I would be less likely to consider an independant when there are great watches available from Lange, Patek, AP, VC, JLC, and others. 

Good points, and food for thought. I still flip flop early daily about independents who refinish ebauches, and think then when taken to a certain degree, it can become something special in itself.
Quote:
Originally Posted by notwithit View Post

Can anyone recommend a web shop with a decent selection of 18mm NATO or ZULU straps that ships to the US? I tried Gnomon and Strapcode (and maybe something called cheapnatostraps?), but they mostly have 20 and 22mm straps. I've found a couple of European sites with straps that would work, but they don't ship to the US.

I'm trying to find something in Swedish flag colors. I picked up this one from Amazon, but the blue is too dark - almost black under fluorescent lights - and the yellow is too bright, almost verging on neon; I'm looking for something closer to a medium blue and gold. I also prefer matte hardware, but that's probably being too picky.



Ok, I'll stop clogging this thread with noob questions about my plebe watch now. shog[1].gif

Try straps made by our very own Singular - a Swede too. http://www.singularstraps.se/
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

Ahhh how apropos, just finished reading SJX's little blurb on the piece:

http://www.watchesbysjx.com/2013/03/photo-essay-jlc-master-calendar-sihh.html

Now a picture for reference:



I think this is a perfect example of what I mean by "balance." I feel like on this watch, to use the same analogy, we have a east-west of "1", and a north-south of "3". By including the arabic numerals, the JLC name, and the day / month subdials, there is a nice balance to the moonphase.

I agree that is a beautiful watch, but I think one of the older triple date calendars has slightly better balance, albeit in a 37mm case (see below).

Anyway, I was actually referring to The Master Ultra Thin Perpetual 39, covered here in detail: http://jlc.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-2/pi-5762088/ti-849043/s-0/


Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

Agree with the Stitchmeister above.

Going back to the "five watches, one maker" discussion, I think my greedy face could find five things I desire from most decent makers.  Certainly all of the traditional "big three" make or have made enough to make a "collection" in their own right - were I wealthy and extravagant enough - and looking at Frilly's insane PP collection makes me drool.

But in terms of balance and design (and of course it's always going to be in the eye of the beholder), reading through this thread and then countless other pictures, reviews and advertisements, has pointed me firmly at two others:  A Lange (again, very much a rich man's habit I'm sure), and Jaeger Le Coultre (rich enough, but perhaps more realistic for more people).  I actually find their complicated piece quite similar in philosophy sometimes - either very symmetrical in proportion, or very deliberately asymmetrical, with a subtle balancing compensation.  

Everyone has their thing, and every maker probably makes something I think is beautiful.  But JLC strikes my ignorant brain as being very special design within the realms of realistic attainment.

Mimo, some food for thought - you can get this (discontinued) JLC SS triple date calendar for $4-5000 on the used market in just about mint condition. Add in $1000 for servicing and you have essentially a new watch.

post #18720 of 34700
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaplan View Post

^ That one has a slight Manara vibe

imgmilo-manara5.jpg
More Milo (Click to show)
Milo-Manara-1.jpg

Milo_Manara_Vila_Viniteca.jpg

Milo-Manara-785x587.jpeg

Nice subdials!
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