The Watch Appreciation Thread - Page 1248

Quote:

Originally Posted by no frills 

 

But here's the thing: I've stated my clear preference for the 3940 versus the 5140.  I feel that the relative proportions of the case size and subdial letterings for the 3940 work better than the 5140 (photo from Mech at PuristSpro):

 

 

 

I think the larger letterings work for the 5040 (which I have too), but because of the unique tonneau shape:

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

But what really comes across as a bit "off" to me about the 5140 is that squished up "27" in the date/moonphase subdial:

 

 

 

Which, interestingly enough, does NOT show up in the 5136/1J, despite the smaller case size (36/37mm versus the 5140's 39mm) and the larger letters in the other subdials:

 

I know I may be acting a bit unnecessarily nitpicky about this, and if someone wants to give me a 5140P for free I'm happy to own it.

 

Just wanted to share my nitpicky thoughts with you folks.

IMHO each of those pieces is beautiful and their respective dials/fonts work well for each of them.  Whenever a company puts a movement from a smaller watch into a larger case they have to do something to compensate and the subdials or date windows etc from looking like they are set too close to the center of the watch.  Hence, sometimes hour markers get larger as they do at the 3 & 9 on the 5140 (compared to the smaller markers at 3& 9 on the 3940).  I think if they had stuck with smaller font it would have seemed out of proportion to the new larger case and dial, and then it might create a somewhat stark or barren looking dial. 

I agree the Tonneau case seems ideally suited for larger font.  Its a very unusual case, especially for Patek.  I more commonly see that case shape (or variety of case shapes associated with VC and Cartier).   While the Tonneau is still dressy, I find its a bit more relaxed and whimsical than the expected round Patek.  I think its a case shape that is very under appreciated and I admire your choice of going with something thats so different from their signature round cases.

As for the squished 5 and 27, I can understand your not liking it.  Although, I think they handled it quite well, and IMHO its much nicer looking than when they cut out part of a number on the 5059.  Just my 2 cents.  Always great seeing photos of your perpetual calendars.

Agree with the Stitchmeister above.

Going back to the "five watches, one maker" discussion, I think my greedy face could find five things I desire from most decent makers.  Certainly all of the traditional "big three" make or have made enough to make a "collection" in their own right - were I wealthy and extravagant enough - and looking at Frilly's insane PP collection makes me drool.

But in terms of balance and design (and of course it's always going to be in the eye of the beholder), reading through this thread and then countless other pictures, reviews and advertisements, has pointed me firmly at two others:  A Lange (again, very much a rich man's habit I'm sure), and Jaeger Le Coultre (rich enough, but perhaps more realistic for more people).  I actually find their complicated piece quite similar in philosophy sometimes - either very symmetrical in proportion, or very deliberately asymmetrical, with a subtle balancing compensation.  

Everyone has their thing, and every maker probably makes something I think is beautiful.  But JLC strikes my ignorant brain as being very special design within the realms of realistic attainment.

Quote:

Originally Posted by apropos 
I reread my earlier reply, which I find now to be rather brusque. I apologise as that was not my intent, but typing on a phone is hell.

Anyway, with a gold linen finish dial like that I would stick with dark non-brown colours - black, navy, dark green. I would go large reptile. I don't think there is a way to successfully "casualise" or "sportify" this watch if that is what you are looking for.
Nice!! Oh man. My wife to be would kill me if I ever surprised her with a perpetual calendar.

Don't worry about it, I appreciate all help I can get. I think I want to "casualise" it at least a little bit, and I was also thinking that adding a gator strap would be nice. 

I thought a mid-brown/tan gator strap would be nice.. You don't think the colors would play well together? Would a black gator be better?

Quote:

Originally Posted by mimo 

Agree with the Stitchmeister above.

 

Going back to the "five watches, one maker" discussion, I think my greedy face could find five things I desire from most decent makers.  Certainly all of the traditional "big three" make or have made enough to make a "collection" in their own right - were I wealthy and extravagant enough - and looking at Frilly's insane PP collection makes me drool.

 

But in terms of balance and design (and of course it's always going to be in the eye of the beholder), reading through this thread and then countless other pictures, reviews and advertisements, has pointed me firmly at two others:  A Lange (again, very much a rich man's habit I'm sure), and Jaeger Le Coultre (rich enough, but perhaps more realistic for more people).  I actually find their complicated piece quite similar in philosophy sometimes - either very symmetrical in proportion, or very deliberately asymmetrical, with a subtle balancing compensation.  

 

Everyone has their thing, and every maker probably makes something I think is beautiful.  But JLC strikes my ignorant brain as being very special design within the realms of realistic attainment.

+100. I need more monies so I don't have to decide between JLC models.

Terrific wrist shot of that Speedy, Moo.

Quote:

Originally Posted by apropos 

IMO, Lange's practice is good for perceived value and laying down trump cards in heated WIS discussions, but not so good if you're planning on keeping your watch for 30 years and more importantly - if reliability is a concern. I like the fact that PP keeps making incremental improvements to the cal. 240, attempting to perfect it instead of reinventing the wheel for every new model.

Knock on wood, should PP go belly up I know there will be a ready supply of modules and parts for the base 240 calibre. Can't say that about Lange. Now magnify that potential issue a million times or so and you have the situation with most independents.

I know I have said before that I would love a Dornblueth but that's really only because the vast majority carry (beautifully refinished) Unitas - easy to service, rock solid reliability. I nearly got a Quintus Klassik but on second thought I think I may have dodged a bullet. The only other true independent I would consider seriously - because I still have moments of temporary insanity - might be Roger Smith.

In theory an interesting point.  However, I highly doubt Lange would go belly up, especially since they are a part of Richemont, and in the eyes of some it crown jewel.  Thats being said, some of their movements have been in production for quite a while also.  The movement for the Lange 1 has been in production for more than 20 years, the Lange 1 Moonphase more than 10 years, the 1815 I believe about 15 years.  Some of the variations on those have not been in production as long, but I would think there is an ample supply of parts for those watches.  Especially since companies under Richemont have a tradition of servicing and taking care of older watches.  Companies such as Cartier will buy back, restore and service any of their watches made PRIOR to 1970, and companies like VC will service their watches no matter how old it is, and if the part is not available they will source it, or make it.  A VC forum moderator got a yardsale find on a 1950's triple date (maybe also with a moonphase) and it was in rough shape.  He knew it was one of a very small batch of that model made.   He decided to restore it and sent it to VC in Switzerland.  They did a search and contacted all of their ADs and service centers, and even old service accounts and they located a NOS original dial for that model at very old service shop IIRC in Amsterdam.  I was pretty impressed that VC searched and contacted ADs and even old service accounts to find a NOS dial that was nearly 60 years old.  The guy paid a pretty penny, but he said it was worth it when the watch came back to him.  VC has the backing of Richemont and tracked down something from 60 years ago when production was quite small for any of the Big Three. 

I could see the parts sourcing issue being a bigger problem with independents.  Sure one can go with an independent that uses an ETA or Unitas as a base movement.  They are good solid work horses, and parts are plentiful.  However, to me its like buying an entry level BMW and then spending $30K on customizing it.  Yes, its going to have unique attributes, but I'd rather buy $65,000 car thats a real $65,000 car rather than something that still has a lot of entry level BMW to it.  I realize cars and watches are not always the best examples.  Just explaining why at a certain price range, I would be less likely to consider an independant when there are great watches available from Lange, Patek, AP, VC, JLC, and others.