or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Watch Appreciation Thread - Page 1191

post #17851 of 31016
post #17852 of 31016

my first post and first mechanical watch.

 

 

 
post #17853 of 31016
Thread Starter 
Current rotation - more pics on mi tumblor but cannot be bothered to repost all here...

post #17854 of 31016
Quote:
Originally Posted by TauKappaEpsilon View Post

What does SF think about the AP diver?

 

 

Damn it! I like iticon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif If you got the funds, get itfistbump.gif

post #17855 of 31016
Visited the Marina Bay Sands JLC boo-teek yesterday.

I was really only there to check out one watch - the TTR 1931 Rouge model, which is a JLC boutique-only model.

When it first came out in early 2012 my initial reaction was somewhere between bleh and unimpressed, but over the last year or so I've developed... a little bit of an obsession with it.

I mean, look at it (not my photo):



The dial is incredibly responsive to lighting, more so than any other watch I've come across. The red colour can and will vary from vivid crimson red, to carmine red, to clotted dark blood red depending on the ambient lighting, which (to use an overused WIS cliche) makes the watch "come alive" IMO. The colour is not a tinted metal colour like the old coloured Rolex dials from the 80s/90s, it's a solid opaque lacquer type finish, not unlike what you find on Japanese homeware. Beautiful watch.

The strap is terrible though - thin, hard, unimpressive croc that somehow manages to look like embossed calf. This is a watch that cries out for an unlined black cordovan strap, or a nicer croc strap in charcoal grey, not black.

Sadly, I will not be picking it up in Singapore though - the asking price is SGD$12,000 which is USD$9,900 or EUR7,400, i.e. more expensive in Singapore than in the US or Europe!! As a reference point, the European MSRP is EUR6,800. And how much "price consideration" was JLC Singapore willing to offer? All of 0%. Yes - zero, zilch, nada. The salesman helpfully informed me that an owner of a local boutique hotel had purchased 5 of the same watch sans discount, and that I could claim 5.5% detax on my departure from Singapore.

Um, no thanks. medtech_expat's words echoed in my head - "world's most amazing watch showroom"...

There is a lot of new money floating around Singapore now, and given the folk I see buying high end watches and driving high end cars (and what I am hearing from local Singaporeans) I suspect shonky money with origins in PRC public funds.

This excess of money is really being reflected in the "prestige" sector of the watch market - i.e. the higher to top tier brands. You can still get good deals (25+% off) on middle tier brands like Zenith or Omega, but it's getting a lot more difficult to play at the high rollers' table now, especially since apparently the new punters in this particular segment take pride in being able to show that they can afford these watches... without any discount.

I guess it's the inescapable outcome of an economic necessity: that of a small, resource-less country with big ambitions hitching its economic cart to the (currently red hot) PRC engine. shog[1].gif
Edited by apropos - 2/10/13 at 4:27am
post #17856 of 31016
Quote:
Originally Posted by bawlin View Post

What's everyone's thoughts on the 39mm Explorer 1? Also, what sort of perception do people have of Rolexes and people who wear them? I think at 39mm, the Explorer 1 is subtle enough to get a pass and mitigate any negative perceptions, no?

I own a 114270. The Explorer is a great watch with a storied history. The up-size of the new model is in line with what many companies are doing. That is, listening to the market and responding accordingly. Though some would say Rolex moves like a glacier. Other than the flaw of the hands being to short it seems to be a nice piece. Most people say that it's got a better bracelet. Small tweaks to the movement hopefully have improved reliability and ruggedness. Pictures of it displayed on top of Everest will say more than words. A lot of people like it. Even Breguet has marketed up-sized pieces in the last few years.
post #17857 of 31016
The new Rolex Exp1 bracelet is much better, more solid feeling, and most importantly - much more satisfying to feel/use than the previous ones.

I think the hands are "too short" only if you are coming from the POV that the 36mm version has a perfect dial-hand length balance, which I think is a subjective thing. Both are nice watches.

Anyway, I felt like sharing some pictures of an old girl after I went through some old posts re: movement finishing...

(yes, I need a new camera badly)

OK, hobnail bezel, enamel dial, heat blued hands, retrograde power reserve, moonphase with day/night indicator, but what about the view from the rear?
pp-1_zps51f83db8.jpg

Hmmm, not much to see here...
pp-2_zpsdb367e3d.jpg

...or is there?
pp-3_zpsa0acae1a.jpg

And another angle
pp-4_zps5c832e22.jpg

The cal. 240 family is coming on 40 years old now, and is the PP equivalent of a "workhorse movement"; their Toyota engine, if you will.

The microrotor movement in its most basic form is still considered remarkably slim (2.4mm... hence cal. 240) and powers various references from simple time-only pieces all the way to perpetual calenders. The cal 240 family has touched nearly every PP collection, ranging from the Aquanauts, to the Ellipses, to the Calatravas, to the Complications, and finally, the Grand Complications. Nearly every single PP posted in this thread has a cal. 240 variant within... think about it.

icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
Edited by apropos - 2/10/13 at 7:43am
post #17858 of 31016
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post

Visited the Marina Bay Sands JLC boo-teek yesterday.

I was really only there to check out one watch - the TTR 1931 Rouge model, which is a JLC boutique-only model.

When it first came out in early 2012 my initial reaction was somewhere between bleh and unimpressed, but over the last year or so I've developed... a little bit of an obsession with it.

I mean, look at it (not my photo):



The dial is incredibly responsive to lighting, more so than any other watch I've come across. The red colour can and will vary from vivid crimson red, to carmine red, to clotted dark blood red depending on the ambient lighting, which (to use an overused WIS cliche) makes the watch "come alive" IMO. The colour is not a tinted metal colour like the old coloured Rolex dials from the 80s/90s, it's a solid opaque lacquer type finish, not unlike what you find on Japanese homeware. Beautiful watch.

The strap is terrible though - thin, hard, unimpressive croc that somehow manages to look like embossed calf. This is a watch that cries out for an unlined black cordovan strap, or a nicer croc strap in charcoal grey, not black.

Sadly, I will not be picking it up in Singapore though - the asking price is SGD$12,000 which is USD$9,900 or EUR7,400, i.e. more expensive in Singapore than in the US or Europe!! As a reference point, the European MSRP is EUR6,800. And how much "price consideration" was JLC Singapore willing to offer? All of 0%. Yes - zero, zilch, nada. The salesman helpfully informed me that an owner of a local boutique hotel had purchased 5 of the same watch sans discount, and that I could claim 5.5% detax on my departure from Singapore.

Um, no thanks. medtech_expat's words echoed in my head - "world's most amazing watch showroom"...

There is a lot of new money floating around Singapore now, and given the folk I see buying high end watches and driving high end cars (and what I am hearing from local Singaporeans) I suspect shonky money with origins in PRC public funds.

This excess of money is really being reflected in the "prestige" sector of the watch market - i.e. the higher to top tier brands. You can still get good deals (25+% off) on middle tier brands like Zenith or Omega, but it's getting a lot more difficult to play at the high rollers' table now, especially since apparently the new punters in this particular segment take pride in being able to show that they can afford these watches... without any discount.

I guess it's the inescapable outcome of an economic necessity: that of a small, resource-less country with big ambitions hitching its economic cart to the (currently red hot) PRC engine. shog[1].gif

Great review here not just of the dial/watch but of the boutique/location where you saw it being marketed.

 

"Prestige" is interesting: the Philippines is nowhere near the per capita GDP of Singapore and yet it has boutiques for JLC, Hublot - even Patek Philippe.  I guess if there's a large enough sliver of the population willing to shell out that kind of dough for timepieces...

 

RE: The dial coming alive.  Is it much like or comparable to the PP 5711/1A's blue/green dial?

post #17859 of 31016
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post

The new Rolex Exp1 bracelet is much better, more solid feeling, and most importantly - much more satisfying to feel/use than the previous ones.

I think the hands are "too short" only if you are coming from the POV that the 36mm version has a perfect dial-hand length balance, which I think is a subjective thing. Both are nice watches.

Anyway, I felt like sharing some pictures of an old girl after I went through some old posts re: movement finishing...

(yes, I need a new camera badly)

OK, hobnail bezel, enamel dial, heat blued hands, retrograde power reserve, moonphase with day/night indicator, but what about the view from the rear?
pp-1_zps51f83db8.jpg

Hmmm, not much to see here...
pp-2_zpsdb367e3d.jpg

...or is there?
pp-3_zpsa0acae1a.jpg

And another angle
pp-4_zps5c832e22.jpg

The cal. 240 family is coming on 40 years old now, and is the PP equivalent of a "workhorse movement"; their Toyota engine, if you will.

The microrotor movement is in its most basic form is still considered remarkably slim (2.4mm... hence cal. 240) and powers various references from simple time-only ones all the way to perpetual calenders. The cal 240 family has touched nearly every PP collection, ranging from the Aquanauts, to the Ellipses, to the Calatravas, to the Complications, and finally, the Grand Complications. Nearly every single PP posted in this thread has a cal. 240 variant within... think about it.

icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

A lovely, lovely, lovely timepiece.  Love that officer's case!  Thanks for sharing!

post #17860 of 31016
Quote:
Originally Posted by no frills View Post

 the Philippines is nowhere near the per capita GDP of Singapore and yet it has boutiques for JLC, Hublot - even Patek Philippe.  I guess if there's a large enough sliver of the population willing to shell out that kind of dough for timepieces...

 

 

Singapore population: 5.3 million

 

Philippines population: 93 million

 

 

Forget the per capita GDP.  Even a poor country has numerically more rich people in its elite, than a tiny country with a higher average income.  Filipinos might be generally poorer than Singaporeans, but I guess there are still more rich Filipinos than rich Singaporeans: the top 1% of Filipinos are still twice as many as the top 10% of Singaporeans.

 

It sounds obvious now I say it, but it's interesting: if I were opening boutiques in Asia, I'd probably think of Singapore before Manila.  But thanks to you, now I think about it, I believe that might be wrong.

post #17861 of 31016
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

Singapore population: 5.3 million

Philippines population: 93 million

Forget the per capita GDP.  Even a poor country has numerically more rich people in its elite, than a tiny country with a higher average income.  Filipinos might be generally poorer than Singaporeans, but I guess there are still more rich Filipinos than rich Singaporeans: the top 1% of Filipinos are still twice as many as the top 10% of Singaporeans.

It sounds obvious now I say it, but it's interesting: if I were opening boutiques in Asia, I'd probably think of Singapore before Manila.  But thanks to you, now I think about it, I believe that might be wrong.

Yes, I did not mean this to be an extended discourse on income and inequality, and implications for market segmentation and strategy (I'm an economist so that is what I do all day) but just a comment on "prestige
goods" and different countries. I have lived in both Singapore and the Philippines, but not during the time when I was more aware of horology, etc. Now I guess I will be keeping a closer eye out for the sociology of it all. Always something new to learn.
post #17862 of 31016

My background is as a political analyst and I do a lot of advisory work on emerging markets (Middle East usually), so I also find this stuff very interesting.  Sorry for boring everyone else; best I don't get started!  

post #17863 of 31016
Quote:
Originally Posted by Akeem View Post

I love the look. I hate the price tag. Other comparable quality divers for much less out there.

Have you seen a RO Diver in the flesh? I did not understand the offshores until I saw them in person; the trademark AP finishing is really impressive and striking with the larger scale. I'm not sure there are any divers at or below its price bracket with comparable case/dial finishing and movement and overall "wow" factor, except maybe the Fifty Fathoms which has very different aesthetics and wrist feel. Here's another image:

153.jpg

My only reservation about some offshores is that the vulnerability to scratches of the brushed steel bezels is compounded by the case height. Would personally favor a rubber or ceramic bezel for an offshore.
post #17864 of 31016
Quote:
Originally Posted by no frills View Post

Great review here not just of the dial/watch but of the boutique/location where you saw it being marketed.

"Prestige" is interesting: the Philippines is nowhere near the per capita GDP of Singapore and yet it has boutiques for JLC, Hublot - even Patek Philippe.  I guess if there's a large enough sliver of the population willing to shell out that kind of dough for timepieces...

RE: The dial coming alive.  Is it much like or comparable to the PP 5711/1A's blue/green dial?

Oh, it's not like the Nautilus dial at all. That one I would call somewhat matte and metallic its finish, which the Rouge isn't at all. The Nautilus also has (or at least appears to have) an actual colour gradation - the centre of the dial looks to have a different absolute colour from the edges, adding to its depth. This may or may not be an illusion due to the physical depth of the dial relative to the bezel - I am not sure.

Like I mentioned earlier the Rouge is a solid, even, opaque red, a lacquer red, but at certain angles it almost looks like it has a "wet" clear layer over it. The "railroad tracks" and hour markers around the dial are solid silver, and look to have been set into the lacquer when it was still wet - there are "dimples" where the metal appliques look to have broken the surface tension of the lacquer.

The 'Reverso' text is printed in a silvery-white ink - it looks stark white at certain angles, and silver at certain angles.

I can clearly see why the JLC aficionados over at PuristsPro went nuts over the watch when it first came out - it's most certainly not a watch for everyone but it definitely speaks to and emotionally connects with certain WISes, like girls with pale milky skin, red hair and freckles (ahem).

I'm just happy that I finally got to see the watch in the flesh given I'm from Australia, a very real horological wasteland with a population of 22 million and not a single JLC boutique. Or Hublot boutiques. Or Blancpain boutiques. Or Vacheron Constantin boutiques. Or hell, even Patek Phillipe boutiques. Sure, there are multibrand ADs, but it's so often a case of jack of all trades and master of none...

Well, the Phillipines has multiple JLC boutiques, not just one.

...but IMO the comparison is an apples-oranges one because not only is Singapore geographically a speck it is in economic terms a very very very very wealthy speck. Think sauce vs soup in terms of flavour punch and I think that is a reasonable analogy between Singapore and the Phillipines - sure there is quantitatively a lot of flavour in the Philipines but it is sort of spread out (soup), while Singapore while quantitatively not having much flavour has it all concentrated instead and so qualitatively packs a bigger flavour punch (sauce).
Edited by apropos - 2/10/13 at 8:27am
post #17865 of 31016
gdl - thanks for the pics of the rotation, very nice to finally see that.

apropos - great patek, and the JLC is a stunner.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread