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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Page 684

post #10246 of 38441
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuttingboard View Post


Great information...thanks.
But what does the moon function on the watch do...is it a moon phase calendar?


I guess I missed the most important detail!!! In short, it tracks the phases of the moon over the course of a lunar month, which is approximately 29.5 days.

 

Jason Heaton does a good job of explaining it in further detail here

 

favorite passage: "Never a complication of necessity, the moon phase is more about the watchmaker’s connection to time itself. It is a sort of microcosm of the larger gear train of our universe with its intermeshing planetary orbits and cycles."

post #10247 of 38441
Quote:
Originally Posted by akatsuki View Post

I suppose this is turning into a ranking of watch brands quickly... I end up agreeing with the Watch Snob in general that unless you are esoteric and getting into Philip Dufour territory, A Lange and Patek are probably at the top. I don't know if I would put AP up against them smile.gif JLC might be about equal to AP in my estimation...

well, i wouldnt want this lovely thread to turn into a brand whore convo, even though i likely am one. i like the broad range of watch appreciation here.

that being said, "the big 3" "top" luxury watch brands are usually considered to be;

Patek
Audemars
Vacheron

and i think AP is in that list deservedly, they are at the top of the high end watch pyramid imo.

i think that JLC might very well be as capable as the likes of AP and others in making tip top grande complications and such, and are certainly at the top of the creative game. they also supply movements to almost all manufactures. however, they also makes watches in a more entry level price point, which sadly tends to bring down peoples perception of the brand. unlike your APs A Langes and Pateks that start in the mid to low 5 digit range.

but, to each their own.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

The JLC single deployant was famous for being a poor fit on most wrists. It was fairly long and only sat well on wider wrists that could accommodate a long piece of metal like that. Anyone with small wrists would experience a slip to the side of the wrist, so the watch wouldn't sit straight.

well, i have a pretty nice sized wrist, so sadly wimpy dudes gain is my loss. frown.gif

biggrin.gif
post #10248 of 38441
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

As in stitches said, the choice of the universe of brands for this study is dubious at best. It is supposed to focus on "Haute Horlogerie" but the list of brands seems cherry-picked - several are nowhere near "haute" (e.g. Zenith, GP) and numerous brands in the same bracket are not included (e.g. GO, Rolex...)
EDIT: so it's a bit clearer now: this specific media kit was meant to be part of SIHH coverage and includes only SIHH brands, so not a bias from the market research firm but a subset of the study for the purpose of SIHH marketing

ya...that makes more sense. fing02[1].gif But it was still interesting! nod[1].gif
post #10249 of 38441
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cylon View Post



I guess I missed the most important detail!!! In short, it tracks the phases of the moon over the course of a lunar month, which is approximately 29.5 days.

Jason Heaton does a good job of explaining it in further detail here

favorite passage: "Never a complication of necessity, the moon phase is more about the watchmaker’s connection to time itself. It is a sort of microcosm of the larger gear train of our universe with its intermeshing planetary orbits and cycles."

Very good explanation...thank you.
post #10250 of 38441
Not to break from this current conversation but I'm back with that ladies watch problem. Ok, so now I have to get it from Macy's, and its got to be somewhat feminine looking while still being visible. Doesn't have to be automatic. Any suggestions? Here's a link to all the ladies watches they sell:

http://www1.macys.com/shop/jewelry-watches/watches/all-watches/gender/womens-watches?id=57385&edge=hybrid#!fn=sortBy%3DORIGINAL%26productsPerPage%3D40&!qvp=iqvp
post #10251 of 38441
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

well, i wouldnt want this lovely thread to turn into a brand whore convo, even though i likely am one. i like the broad range of watch appreciation here.
that being said, "the big 3" "top" luxury watch brands are usually considered to be;
Patek
Audemars
Vacheron
and i think AP is in that list deservedly, they are at the top of the high end watch pyramid imo.
i think that JLC might very well be as capable as the likes of AP and others in making tip top grande complications and such, and are certainly at the top of the creative game. they also supply movements to almost all manufactures. however, they also makes watches in a more entry level price point, which sadly tends to bring down peoples perception of the brand. unlike your APs A Langes and Pateks that start in the mid to low 5 digit range.
but, to each their own.
well, i have a pretty nice sized wrist, so sadly wimpy dudes gain is my loss. frown.gif
biggrin.gif

I suppose I am continuing the brand whoring aspect a bit, but at least I am trying to explain why I feel the way I do:

I think Lange is considered to be on par with Patek (mostly because Philip Dufour spends his time lamenting how the Swiss watch industry (including Patek) was falling behind the Germans, (namely Lange), and I also believe the only watch he has ever bought was a Lange). I'll agree with you that the cheaper watches can change perceptions, but the thing is, if you buy pretty much any Patek or Lange, you are getting a top class movement finished to the nth degree. The same is not true of every brand. For example, the Credor Eichi I posted earlier might be finished to an even higher standard than a Dufour, but nobody is going to put Seiko in that top class even though they are eminently capable of producing a top watch.
post #10252 of 38441
Quote:
Originally Posted by akatsuki View Post

I suppose I am continuing the brand whoring aspect a bit, but at least I am trying to explain why I feel the way I do:
I think Lange is considered to be on par with Patek (mostly because Philip Dufour spends his time lamenting how the Swiss watch industry (including Patek) was falling behind the Germans, (namely Lange), and I also believe the only watch he has ever bought was a Lange). I'll agree with you that the cheaper watches can change perceptions, but the thing is, if you buy pretty much any Patek or Lange, you are getting a top class movement finished to the nth degree. The same is not true of every brand. For example, the Credor Eichi I posted earlier might be finished to an even higher standard than a Dufour, but nobody is going to put Seiko in that top class even though they are eminently capable of producing a top watch.

i hear what you are saying, and there is no doubting the all around accolades any lange deserves deserves. from movement quality, complexity, finishing and beauty to the same of its cases and bands. "the big 3" i referred to is just something people say (albeit there is no doubt in my mind those brands do belong at the top), and i have no problem per-se putting lange in their company. there are yet other makers, some smaller and more obscure, like f.p. journe, that are just as excellent and could be put in the same conversation. still, i feel AP belongs there. their quality is on par imo.

as to seiko, i have read a lot about their higher end watches and what goes into making them. they are truly great watches. i however have a hard time putting them in the company of the above. just how i feel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambo View Post

Not to break from this current conversation but I'm back with that ladies watch problem. Ok, so now I have to get it from Macy's, and its got to be somewhat feminine looking while still being visible. Doesn't have to be automatic. Any suggestions? Here's a link to all the ladies watches they sell:
http://www1.macys.com/shop/jewelry-watches/watches/all-watches/gender/womens-watches?id=57385&edge=hybrid#!fn=sortBy%3DORIGINAL%26productsPerPage%3D40&!qvp=iqvp

sorry, im not up with this problem. what are trying to get and why/for whom?
post #10253 of 38441
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambo View Post

Not to break from this current conversation but I'm back with that ladies watch problem. Ok, so now I have to get it from Macy's, and its got to be somewhat feminine looking while still being visible. Doesn't have to be automatic. Any suggestions? Here's a link to all the ladies watches they sell:
http://www1.macys.com/shop/jewelry-watches/watches/all-watches/gender/womens-watches?id=57385&edge=hybrid#!fn=sortBy%3DORIGINAL%26productsPerPage%3D40&!qvp=iqvp

Rambo from that list. I guess just stick with Michael Kor and Gucci. Chicks really dig rose gold or white bracelet piece.
post #10254 of 38441
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuttingboard View Post


I really like those two Zenith. The 2nd one is more legible. That was one of my main beef with some Zenith watches. Some of the chronograph was really hard on my eyes in person. If you live near by an AD, I would highly recommend you to try it on in person. Sometimes the pictures can be really misleading. Like from my experiences, I fall in love with some watch I hated before, and vice versa. But good luck on your decision and remember to post some pics biggrin.gif
post #10255 of 38441
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren G. View Post

I really like those two Zenith. The 2nd one is more legible. That was one of my main beef with some Zenith watches. Some of the chronograph was really hard on my eyes in person. If you live near by an AD, I would highly recommend you to try it on in person. Sometimes the pictures can be really misleading. Like from my experiences, I fall in love with some watch I hated before, and vice versa. But good luck on your decision and remember to post some pics biggrin.gif

Thanks...I need to do more research because I heard that some people have a difficult time reading the dial.
post #10256 of 38441
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuttingboard View Post


Very good explanation...thank you.


 

I should be the one thanking you. I always had a nebulous idea of why I liked the moon phase, but never had to think about it at length or put it in writing. So thanks to you sir--I never woulda found that awesome Jason Heaton article either! 

 

As far as JLC over Zenith or any other watch, you have to get what you like. I'm gonna tell you about why I like this or that, but at the end of the day you gotta be the one happy about it. I'm starting to rethink how I give advice (aka talk outta my backside) because I really don't want to shit on other peoples choices. After making my comments about IWC for instance, I had to revisit them and look at some of their offerings. Yes, they are modified ETA but some of them arent as expensive as I thought. Do I still think 6-8k is too much to pay for a modified ETA? Yeah! But at the same time I might have spoken too glibly to write off the entire brand in one stroke of the pen. At least Dino was here to give more substance to what I was saying...but yeah I shoulda watched my mouth a bit.

 

For the record, I like the El Primero's, if it was me making that decision I'd really try to answer this question: 38mm or 42mm and sportier chrono (#1 in your pix) vs dressier chrono (#2 in your pix)? That would require some legwork.

post #10257 of 38441
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambo View Post

Not to break from this current conversation but I'm back with that ladies watch problem. Ok, so now I have to get it from Macy's, and its got to be somewhat feminine looking while still being visible. Doesn't have to be automatic. Any suggestions? Here's a link to all the ladies watches they sell:
http://www1.macys.com/shop/jewelry-watches/watches/all-watches/gender/womens-watches?id=57385&edge=hybrid#!fn=sortBy%3DORIGINAL%26productsPerPage%3D40&!qvp=iqvp


Movado museums are legit style IMHO

post #10258 of 38441
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cylon View Post

you have to get what you like. I'm gonna tell you about why I like this or that, but at the end of the day you gotta be the one happy about it.

x10000000000...
post #10259 of 38441
Quote:
Originally Posted by akatsuki View Post


I suppose I am continuing the brand whoring aspect a bit, but at least I am trying to explain why I feel the way I do:
I think Lange is considered to be on par with Patek (mostly because Philip Dufour spends his time lamenting how the Swiss watch industry (including Patek) was falling behind the Germans, (namely Lange), and I also believe the only watch he has ever bought was a Lange). I'll agree with you that the cheaper watches can change perceptions, but the thing is, if you buy pretty much any Patek or Lange, you are getting a top class movement finished to the nth degree. The same is not true of every brand. For example, the Credor Eichi I posted earlier might be finished to an even higher standard than a Dufour, but nobody is going to put Seiko in that top class even though they are eminently capable of producing a top watch.


 

For me if youre talking real "HAUTE" stuff its PP and ALS. I dont know if I would include FPJourne. I feel as if that's approaching a slippery slope toward other esoterics like Bethune, Laurent Ferrier, MB&F etc....the list goes on. In all honesty they're all probably esoteric and we are having a pointless discussion.

 

I honestly have no idea why I'd put AP and VC a notch below, I just do.

 

 

Edit:

 

Oh I know: AP Royal Oak and VC Overseas are unforgivably ugly to me.

 

VC Patrimony and Jules Audemars however....drool.gif

 

 


Edited by Cylon - 1/30/12 at 6:59pm
post #10260 of 38441
I'd still put VC up there with PP and ALS. Maybe I'm a huge Richemont whore. Because I'm also a huge fan of Cartier and Montblanc. Montblanc has come a really long way.

I was at their boutique a few months ago and I was blown away by their Villeret collection.

This is my probably my favorite chronograph at the moment. The watch wears really well, despite being 43mm...

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