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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 3199  

post #47971 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by zippyh View Post


I think the steel ones were meant to be service loaners.

 

That's correct. When Lange was relaunched in the mid 90's they heavily emphasized their focus on customer care. As part of this when watches were sent in for service by their owners Lange would temporarily provide a replacement so that the owners wouldn't be too troubled for the time when their watch was in for service. Very similar to what Mercedes, BMW, Lexus, and nearly every other luxury car manufacturer does. The temporary replacements were to be returned to Lange when their own watches were doing being serviced. Because they were intended as temporary loaners, they were cased in steel, not precious metals as are all Langes. The steel watches were never sold to the public, but some slipped out...

post #47972 of 48312
Along the same lines, Cartier has quartz loaner watches still available.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainApathy View Post

That's correct. When Lange was relaunched in the mid 90's they heavily emphasized their focus on customer care. As part of this when watches were sent in for service by their owners Lange would temporarily provide a replacement so that the owners wouldn't be too troubled for the time when their watch was in for service. Very similar to what Mercedes, BMW, Lexus, and nearly every other luxury car manufacturer does. The temporary replacements were to be returned to Lange when their own watches were doing being serviced. Because they were intended as temporary loaners, they were cased in steel, not precious metals as are all Langes. The steel watches were never sold to the public, but some slipped out...
post #47973 of 48312
Haven't seen anything on it. They could probably squeeze the added complication in the same case but we'll see.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IGotId View Post

Any info on the 'dual-time'?
post #47974 of 48312
Got to see a Lange 1 moon phase in person inlove.gif
post #47975 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by IGotId View Post

I haven't seen anyone post these two new ones from Cartier:





I've been thinking about adding a Cartier & assuming a good fit am considering the first one.

 

I don't dislike Cartier, but I'm not a huge fan either.  That said the Drive looks nice.  Stainless Steel or/and (see what I did there) Rose Gold.  Can't understand the thought process on the date though... And I actually like asymmetry to an extent.

Quote:
Originally Posted by P12OFIT View Post
 

I want another watch... this is dangerous. 

 

Tell me about it.  Been hunting the past month and I may nail one down on Monday.  Sad thing is I also want a Lange or three.

post #47976 of 48312

In case anyone wants to do some comparison shopping, there's a leaked Rolex price list from Germany, with prices in Euro, floating around the internet:

 

http://pics.r-l-x.de/picserv/files/3/Preise/PL_02_2016.pdf

post #47977 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Omega Male View Post
 

But VC has now (sadly) ditched the big date on the otherwise pretty exemplary new Overseas chrono -- for the scourge of the 4-5, off colour.

 

I don't mind the 1630 date - on my Longines.  But I am one of those who liked the current/previous Overseas just fine, so I'm hoping it gets cheap enough for me to own one one of these days.  Some people will always want the latest model whatever - always good news for the stubborn fecker. :)

post #47978 of 48312
Traveling this weekend/week. This threesome pretty much has all the bases covered

post #47979 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainApathy View Post
 

 

That's correct. When Lange was relaunched in the mid 90's they heavily emphasized their focus on customer care. As part of this when watches were sent in for service by their owners Lange would temporarily provide a replacement so that the owners wouldn't be too troubled for the time when their watch was in for service. Very similar to what Mercedes, BMW, Lexus, and nearly every other luxury car manufacturer does. The temporary replacements were to be returned to Lange when their own watches were doing being serviced. Because they were intended as temporary loaners, they were cased in steel, not precious metals as are all Langes. The steel watches were never sold to the public, but some slipped out...

 

A very small number of Lange 1 references in stainless steel were actually sold to the public, though the company does not openly acknowledge anything more than their existence. 

post #47980 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH35 View Post

Traveling this weekend/week. This threesome pretty much has all the bases covered

 

What watch is on the left?

post #47981 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by IGotId View Post

What watch is on the left?

From left to right is Urwerk 102, AP Royal Oak 5402 original series two-tone, Jaquet Droz Grand Seconde Paillonnee
post #47982 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by IGotId View Post
 

 

$8750 for the more complicated version. From pics I can't decide if I like that one more or less than the time/date version.

I prefer the 2nd time zone day/night indicator version.  I just don't like the date/cut-away III, and I don't love the subdial for seconds sitting so high up on the dial.  

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ambulance Chaser View Post
 I'm also not a huge fan of the date window, but I think that Cartier envisions this watch as a daily wearer for a man with one watch or a handful of watches, and daily wearers have dates. If the watch had to have a date window, it's in the right place: it cuts the minutes track at the same place as the seconds subdial, and allows the watch to retain a full set of Roman numerals.

The date is there for the reason its not a pure dress watch, and it will appeal to a larger audience of people that are used to a date window on their watches.  As for the date, sorry, but that cut into the III disrupts the dial.  Half of a Roman III doesn't make for a symmetric or harmonious dial.   Either nix the III completely, or get rid of the date.  I think the half of a VI looks better but not great.  

 

Also, if being technical, I'm not sure you can say they retained a full set of Roman numerals...Its more like we got 10 full romans and 2 halves...so its more like we got 11 Roman numerals ;)

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by PartagasIV View Post


Less, for me. Much clunkier than other watches with similar complications. But the basic Drive I like more than the Tank MC, and for probably similar money discounted.

The basic Drive is already sort of clunky at 11.5mm  Not sure about all the details of the 2nd time zone Drive, but that same movement fits in the Rotonde 2nd Time Zone day/night indicator watch and that model is only 11.96mm.  So it could potentially be nearly the same size as the basic time/date model Drive.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post
 

Seems the big date has spread from Lange via VC Overseas, to finally infect Cartier.  Dino, you should write a letter!  I also thought "Piaget" when I first saw it.

 

Richemont DNA...

Hi Mimo, 

 

I think Cartier would wonder why I waited so long to write to them about this.  Yes, Lange had the first big date in the 1990s, then JLC (who developed it for Lange) started using it, but it started appearing on Cartier models at least 10 years ago on pieces such as the CPCP Tortue 8 Day Reserve and the CPCP Rontonde.  Cheers.  

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Omega Male View Post
 

But VC has now (sadly) ditched the big date on the otherwise pretty exemplary new Overseas chrono -- for the scourge of the 4-5, off colour.

Never really liked the big date on the Overseas, although I think it looked best on their 1st gen Overseas.  I like the date at the 4-5 area, just wish they nixed the silly metal outline and made the background color the same as the dial.  

 

There are folks who already like the newer model so I'm sure it will sell very well.  But for folks looking to get a sweet deal on the last of the new 2nd gen Overseas models, this might be the time to start negotiating.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by tigerpac View Post

Along the same lines, Cartier has quartz loaner watches still available.

Breitling also offered steel quartz model loners.  My friend got one when his watch went in for service. However, when the strap to one broke, my friend realized he lost in somewhere in Central Park, and then he got hit with a $650 replacement fee on top of getting the watch serviced.  He asked if they could just apply that amount as a credit to his making a purchase of another new Breitling from an AD or a Boutique and they said no.  I guess if Lange let people keep these so called "lost" steel loaners without charging a loss fee, Lange is far more forgiving than Breitling.  

 

My friend said next time he'd just buy another watch to wear while his is being serviced, rather than wear a loaner that he could get whacked for if it gets lost. Cheers. 

post #47983 of 48312
Re: the Cartier Drive, I do believe it's a pretty good effort, and not the worst looking watch in the world.

But I really have to wonder if this is "just another case shape" from the maison, and for the sake of .... what? ... more differentiation?

If you think about it, they've already got two rock-solid, absolute icons in the Tank and Santos. Granted, they are both sqaurish / rectangular. And both pure classics, IMHO. (Though even amongst the Tank line itself, there's some options-- with the Tank MC looking quite different from the Solo, for instance.)

You've got the Ronde offerings, and the Rotonde. Pretty much uh.....round, LOL.

They launched the Ballon Bleu to much fanfare just a few years ago. I always thought these were maybe aimed slightly more at the ladies, but absolutely are available for men. Bigger, bolder ... with the main attraction being the crown, I suppose. Which I always thought was a strange focus, personally.

All of the Calibre stuff, especially the ISO-certified Diver that they made such a huge deal about.... and yes btw, it's noteworthy that their newer stuff will mostly have in-house movements. Understood. Big investment.

Then there's the new Clé design, which is already a little throw-backish (60's - 70's to me, kind of like the Constellation C from Omega). Also, not a bad looking family IMHO.

So I guess I'm just wondering where the Drive is supposed to fit? (And this is coming from a Roadster owner). As others have pointed out, it is very reminiscent of Piaget and 70's VC. It's not really ground-breaking in that sense. Nor do I see or hear a lot of compelling story/romance behind it, in terms of their marketing. So I'm just not sure that I really "get" this one.

(Hell, I haven't even mentioned their Pasha and Tortue stuff!)

Shapes on shapes on shapes....

EDIT: grammar
post #47984 of 48312

Cartier and several other brands have a long history of offering various case shapes for their watches.  Look at old advertisements or catalogs from VC, JLC, Piaget, Patek, and others and you will see a variety of shapes.  It seems with the revival of interest in mechanical watches, many brands narrowed their focus, as they determined especially among men, that round watches outsell all other shapes by a significant amount.  

 

I appreciate brands such as Cartier, VC, JLC, and others that with great frequency offer case shapes inspired by their some of their best designs of the past.  I can't fault Cartier for offering what may seem like just another shape, because offering a variety of shapes, models, and variations within model ranges is practically within their DNA.  Within the Tank family alone there is the Tank Louis Cartier, the Tank Obus, Tank Cintree, Tank Normale, Tank Guichet, Tank Asymmetric, Tank Francaise, Tank Americaine, Tank Anglaise, etc...

 

For some reason, Cartier has more recently focused on driving, with models such as the Roadster and the Drive.  However, what is interesting to me, is that neither actually have much to do with driving or making it easier to read the time when driving.  In the past Cartier has offered a  true "Drivers' watch" which was sort of rectangular with a curved back and intended to be worn toward the side of the wrist so that one could read the time at a glance without taking one's hands off the wheel.  There was a limited edition offered through the retired CPCP collection.  

 

I wonder if certain watches, or perhaps Cartier has been influenced  or as @Mimo might suggest been infected with the IWCish bug of creating lifestyle products  At least with Cartier several collector friends have not been pleased by any of the more recent releases and are now focusing on past offerings.

 

As for the Ballon Bleu from what a friend in the industry told me, although there are larger sizes for men, its a model that sells predominately to women.  

 

I don't think the Drive is a bad watch, so much as a missed opportunity.  In addition, while its great that they have in house calibers such as cal 1904, stuffing that movement into everything one designs does lead to compromises in terms of dial layout.  Perhaps the Drive would have avoided some compromises and been a bit more pleasing to the eye if they had borrowed a a base movement from one of their sister companies. I think the Drive has potential, but for me they missed a few things. 


Edited by Dino944 - 1/25/16 at 12:22pm
post #47985 of 48312

Considering their sales volume, I think they're probably got room for another shape in there.  Did someone here say over half the Richemont group's turnover?  Bearing in mind the whole Montblanc and Dunhill brands and eight other watch houses including hot sellers like IWC and Panerai as well as the big cheeses ALS, VC, JLC...that's a lot of stuff they're selling.

 

And I like this shape.  Perhaps it's not especially distinctive or interesting, but I like cushions in general and this one's perfectly pleasing.  I just don't like either watch that much.  Certainly not eight grand much.  VC's Harmony, Piaget's Emperador, Dubuis's Monegasque, heck, the Panerai 1940s...lots of more appealing cushions in their stable I think - and some steel ones in the price range, too.

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