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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 3052  

post #45766 of 48312
^

That's ridiculous. You've got to find yourself a watchmaker. My guy charges a quarter of big three prices and is every bit as good, having worked at one for years.
post #45767 of 48312
Novelty77 which nation's $ was that?
post #45768 of 48312
Horolab is in Singapore so about US$1200.
post #45769 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belligero View Post

Disregarding practical matters, my general view is:

15202 > (15300) > 15450 > 15400

Although quick-set date and power reserve are essentially irrelevant in a "one watch" situation, there are some practicalities to consider. An important one is that the 15202's ultra-thin cal. 2121 movement — though absolutely lovely — is mechanically unforgiving. I'd wear it carefully... much more so than other steel watches. It's also one of the few for which I'd stick to the manufacturer's recommended maintenance interval.

The 15400 is a large watch whose wide bracelet wears like an arm shackle on all but the widest wrists, which might not be optimal.



In your situation, the 37 mm 15450 is probably the best bet for frequent wear due to both its sizing and its more-robust 3020 movement. I checked one out earlier this year and thought its proportions were fantastic. It's a sweet watch that seems to be underappreciated.

I am considering a 15202 myself, a few questions I hope you or someone else with experience with the AP 15202 can elaborate on:
1. How does the maintenance interval of a 15202 look like?
2. How much will a typical service set you back? What does AP do to the watch as part of the maintenance? Just clean the movement or also refinish the case and bracelet?
3. How prone is case and bracelet to scratches and other damages, does they scratch and ding very easily?
4. I have often read that discount is generally offered on various AP models like the 15400, but how about the 15202, do A.D.’s generally grant (slight) discounts on them, if so how deep do the discounts generally go?
post #45770 of 48312
Quote to service my IWC Portuguese perpetual calendar started at 900 UK pounds depending on what needs doing. My Blancpain Triple date was serviced around 10 years ago and cost 410 UK pounds.I have to admit the watch looked like new when it came back after 5 months
post #45771 of 48312

 @Belligero is the AP 15400 really as big as you make it to be? I've seen plenty of wrist shots of the 15400 and it doesn't seem to very that big?

 

Sure, it's a pretty big chunk of metal. But shackles? 

post #45772 of 48312
Apiimage.jpg 1644k .jpg file

It's really not that big. I don't have large wrists and actively avoid some of the dinner plates I see pretending to be watches that seem so popular these days and the AP is fine.

As for servicing, you're in for £1k every 5 years or so, and only safe option is to get an authorised dealer to ship it back to AP. As for discounts, I imagine pretty hard to come by...
post #45773 of 48312
Yes, shackles:





(two random photos nicked via google images, both apparently from rolexforums.com)

Or manacles?
post #45774 of 48312
Couldn't be more happy with this duo.

Rolex submariner 116610LN
CARTIER santos XL W20099C4

post #45775 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Novelty77 View Post
 

 

Thanks for the suggestions Dino, really appreciate it...

 

Finding a watch for her really pose a real challenge. She mentioned that she like a watch around the size between 28-33mm, somewhere in the middle would be perfect. Any more suggestions so I can look around in the preown market. Right now, my no. 1 option is to get the tank and search for a nice strap for her, but i'm afraid that the clasp might be a problem as well, does Cartier have tang buckle for the ladies tank right?.

 

I don't really have other suggestions (beyond the previously mentioned watches).  Matching his/hers watches in a reasonable price range that are going to fit you both can be tough. As mentioned, I liked your Reverso suggestion...but its a watch that doesn't fit everyone comfortably.  You might like how it sits on your wrist, she may not...particularly due to the very flat carriage (case).  Some square/rectangular watches have some curvature to the back and will fit very differently than watches with flat case backs.   Therefore, the key is to try a lot of watches on to see what fits you both well.  

 

Cartier has made tang buckles in the past.  I have seen them on a few of the men's watches, but I have not looked closely in recent years to see if they were offering them on ladies models.  I would contact your local Cartier service center as they can advise you and parts availability, of a ladies tang buckle.  

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by linstar View Post

Update:

Will be traveling overseas to Japan this week and will be hopefully picking up a APRO. Still undecided between the 15202, 15450, or 15400 though I have narrowed the dial color down to black or blue unless only the 15450 fits. Worried that the 15400 and 15202 may be big on my 6.5'' wrists. Help me decide TWATers!

 

As for fit, try them all on and see what fits your best and what you are comfortable with.  I have small wrists.  I haven't measured in a while, but depending on summer weather (wrist swell) vs. winter, I'm somewhere between 6.25 and 6.5.  I am very comfortable wearing the 15202.  Each of the watches you are speaking of wears differently due to the ration of thickness to overall diameter and where the integrated lugs fall on your wrist.  Therefore, trying them all on is crucial.  They are all great watches, its merely a matter of what you are looking for from a RO and which is the best fit (physically and with your lifestyle).  

 

I never tried on the 15450.  However, I have tried the out of production, 15300, 15202, and 15400. The 15202 and 15300 are both 39mm but fit differently due to differences in case thickness, bracelet thickness, and the clasps being different.  IMHO, the relative thinness of the 15300 makes it appear larger than it is, but without the heft of the thick case.  The dimensions of the 15400 just did not appeal to me.  Although, it is essentially an enlarged 15300 and everything was increased proportionately, something about its proportions just looked off to my eye, but you may love the larger size.

 

For me the 15202  has the famous 2121 movement, a size and dial design closest to the original A series RO of 1972, and it fit me and felt more comfortable on my wrist than the other ROs I tried.  I also liked the clean look of only a minute and hour hand (some people can't live without a seconds hand).   In addition,  I spoke to a collector who is huge into AP (and other brands).  When we met at a watch event a few years ago (he had an AP tourbillon on one wrist and I believe and Equation of Time on the other) and when I asked him about a RO Chronograph, a Royal Oak Day Date, and Royal Oak Dual Time...his response was he loves his APs, but if he could have only one AP it would be 15202.   We talked about the various models and I put a lot of time and effort into researching which piece I would eventually choose. I had been considering something with a complication feeling that ultra-thins were a lot of money for a time only steel watch.  However, upon seeing it in person, and trying it on, I knew it was the watch for me.  Wishing you luck with whatever your decide.  

 

For reference here is a quick photo of the ultra thin on a wrist that is between 6.25 and 6.5mm.

 

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Belligero View Post

Disregarding practical matters, my general view is:

15202 > (15300) > 15450 > 15400

Although quick-set date and power reserve are essentially irrelevant in a "one watch" situation, there are some practicalities to consider. An important one is that the 15202's ultra-thin cal. 2121 movement — though absolutely lovely — is mechanically unforgiving. I'd wear it carefully... much more so than other steel watches. It's also one of the few for which I'd stick to the manufacturer's recommended maintenance interval.

The 15400 is a large watch whose wide bracelet wears like an arm shackle on all but the widest wrists, which might not be optimal.



In your situation, the 37 mm 15450 is probably the best bet for frequent wear due to both its sizing and its more-robust 3020 movement. I checked one out earlier this year and thought its proportions were fantastic. It's a sweet watch that seems to be underappreciated.

:rotflmao:

The shackles might be a bit of an unfair comparison, but I would say that because of the integrated lug design, the 15400 does feel like a substantially larger watch than its 41 mm measurement would suggest.    

Edit ...just saw your photos...the 15400 definitely looks larger on you than I recalled it looking on me and I do not have large wrists.  In any event, good thing I didn't go with the RO "Shackle edition"...I should have copyrighted that in case AP wants to use it to name another limited edition ;) 

 

I've worn my 15202 basically as a daily wearer for roughly 3 years (knock on wood) no issues.  Its certainly not as robust a movement as something from Rolex, but it can handle day to day usage.  Then again, I'm a bit older than you and I don't do any off road biking etc., so my watches probably lead something closer to a babied lifestyle than yours.   

 

The lack of a quick set can be a bit of a headache if the date is say 2 or 3 weeks behind the current date (although there is a recommended short cut to advancing the date by going back and forth between 10 pm and 2 pm to advance the date).

 

The key factor is for the OP to try on each watch and then decide. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelvl View Post


I am considering a 15202 myself, a few questions I hope you or someone else with experience with the AP 15202 can elaborate on:
1. How does the maintenance interval of a 15202 look like?
2. How much will a typical service set you back? What does AP do to the watch as part of the maintenance? Just clean the movement or also refinish the case and bracelet?
3. How prone is case and bracelet to scratches and other damages, does they scratch and ding very easily?
4. I have often read that discount is generally offered on various AP models like the 15400, but how about the 15202, do A.D.’s generally grant (slight) discounts on them, if so how deep do the discounts generally go?

 

I've had my 15202 for just shy of 3 years.  No reason for it to go back.  If you buy from the boutique the watch has a 5 year warranty and I believe they throw in the first service.  If you buy from an AD, it has a 2 year warranty and you can send it in for a free check of the water resistance and they will give you another year of warranty.  

 

I haven't had mine serviced, but I would expect it to be about $1,000-1,200.  The service consists of disassembling the watch movement, cleaning, reassembling, and I would presume cleaning the case and bracelet(not refinishing ).  I would expect that refinishing the case and bracelet would be extra.  I know Patek has an old service chart on their website from 2010 and they were charging extra to refinish the case and/or bracelet of Aquanauts/Nautiluses.  Unless the watch is badly dinged and damage, I would not recommend refinishing it.  If you are going to get it refinished, only go through AP.  Most indies, do not have all of the finishing machines necessary to refinish the case and bracelet (which has numerous complex angles, beveled edges etc).  I've seen plenty of older ROs and Nautiluses that were over polished by overzealous independent watch makers - turning the bezels etc into nearly rounded bezels...and rounding the beveled edges on cases and bracelets.  Bezels can be replaced but are expensive, but you may not be able to restore beveled case or bracelet edges if someone went nuts with a dremel tool. 

 

If you are rough on watches, don't buy a Royal Oak unless you don't mind scratches and dings.  There are lots of sharp, crisp angles and edges and various finishes that show scratches or dings if you really hit the watch hard against something.  I am really careful with my RO and I usually wear long sleeves.  I've only picked up one bad scratch on a smaller link ...but something like the brushed surfaces of a Rolex seem to hide scratches better.  

 

Here is my worst scratch.

You will definitely get a good discount on a 15400.  On a 15202, you may find it quite tough these days.  I bought mine almost 3 years ago and I got a decent discount from a smaller dealer.  But some other places told me no discount on a 15202, because they get in so few and some places have a waiting list for them.  More recently, I've heard that ADs (at least in the US) rarely if ever get in 15202s in steel because production is quite limited and AP basically sends the bulk of them to their Boutiques which do not discount.  Wishing you luck with whatever you decide.  


Edited by Dino944 - 8/17/15 at 6:01pm
post #45776 of 48312

I found the 15450 wore a little small on a 7.25mm wrist, but it really does need to be tried if your wrist is smaller.  The discontinued 15300 seems the most versatile.  I am pervy enough to imagine the 15400 fitting my wrist just fine, but it's big enough to be a statement if not a shackle, and for every day is extremely showy at that size.  Also, the "big watch thing" is fine until the watch head itself just won't sit flat on your wrist.  Then it looks kind of silly.  I think that unlike, say, a Panerai on a strap, the integrated bracelet and lugs of the RO make it harder to wear oversized without just making the wearer look small.

 

I'd say try them on for sure, and if you want something less dainty than the 15450, there are plenty of nearly-new and even a few new old stock 15300s around.  Or a wild card: what do you think of the 26120 Dual Time?  It's the right size, steel, cheaper than a Jumbo and there are a lot of black ones on discount.  I quite like that quirky asymmetry myself.

post #45777 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belligero View Post

Disregarding practical matters, my general view is:

15202 > (15300) > 15450 > 15400

Although quick-set date and power reserve are essentially irrelevant in a "one watch" situation, there are some practicalities to consider. An important one is that the 15202's ultra-thin cal. 2121 movement — though absolutely lovely — is mechanically unforgiving. I'd wear it carefully... much more so than other steel watches. It's also one of the few for which I'd stick to the manufacturer's recommended maintenance interval.

What exactly do you mean when you say "mechanically unforgiving" and that you would wear it more carefully than the 3021?

I am normally very careful with my possessions so I don't mind the scratching portion, and it would be the same with the 3121, no?
post #45778 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by linstar View Post


What exactly do you mean when you say "mechanically unforgiving" and that you would wear it more carefully than the 3021?

I am normally very careful with my possessions so I don't mind the scratching portion, and it would be the same with the 3121, no?

If you are careful with your possessions, then I wouldn't worry about the movement in the 15202.  If you plan to do extreme sports while wearing your RO...then I probably wouldn't go for a 15202 ...but then again if I were going to do extreme sports while wearing a watch, I wouldn't do it wearing an AP.  

post #45779 of 48312
Thanks for the insight! I mean I might occasionally ding it on something, but not planning on swimming or doing anything active with it on.
post #45780 of 48312
Thanks for the info BigBadBernard.
Thanks for the info too Dino944, I appreciate it a lot. Wear your 15202 in the best of health!
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