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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 2931  

post #43951 of 48312
^ Very nice, but Mr Hadfield seems to be wearing his watch awfully loose - maybe it's a zero-g thing...


And just in case anybody missed it... (Click to show)
post #43952 of 48312

So I'm looking for a dress casual watch to 'pair' or complement my recently aquired BLNR; one that will be worn to work on a brown gator strap (most of my shoes are brown). I'd prefer a watch that is available w/ a bracelet but won't exclude a watch w/o one. I stopped by my local AD to try on the Tank MC, Tank Anglaise XL, & Calibre de Cartier. I was pleasantly surprised to see that a smaller 38mm CdC is now available. 

I really like the larger 42mm, particulary given how it's available w/ a bracelet. However I'm reluctant to purchase one as I've flipped both of my recent >40mm watches (my Polar Exp II & my Speedy 9300). I was actually impressed at how the 38mm wore more similar to a 40mm watch.'

I'd like to hear thoughts from others!

Tank MC:



Calibre de Cartier 42mm



Calibre de Cartier 38mm

 

post #43953 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonHedonist View Post

I know this is off-thread, but I've got a suspicion some of the TWATerati might have an opinion.

I'm going to need a raincoat (or "Mac" as I'm told they are called here) and I can see only two options: Burberry and Aquascutum ("Heritage" and "Corby").

I tried both on today and like each one. Feeling indecisive. I'll spare you all the long pros and cons list. Anyone care to render an opinion? Perhaps someone who's given either one the test of time?

I've had an Aquascutum for 12+ years. Really well made, but I've fallen out of love a bit with the boxy cut, and I've lost weight, so I haven't worn it for a couple of seasons. Look at them carefully though - the brand has changed hands since I last shopped there and I don't think they are what they used to be.

Consider also Mackintosh, maybe somewhere like Gieves + Hawkes, or some of the SR tailors will do these off the peg. I have no experience of Burbs.

I got a lovely one from Kilgour a couple of years ago, but it may have been a one-off.

My three tips for macs - (1) be careful with the cut. Depending on your build they can be quite boxy if you are slim: (2) consider a colour other than the traditional tan - eg dark blue. The light tan picks up muck from the tube, etc in no time at all; and (3) if you go DB, take one final look at yourself before you buy it to check you don't look like Inspector Gadget.
post #43954 of 48312
Stutterheim and Norwegian Rain both have nice ones as well and they are waterproof, not water resistant like macs.
post #43955 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonHedonist View Post

I know this is off-thread, but I've got a suspicion some of the TWATerati might have an opinion.

I'm going to need a raincoat (or "Mac" as I'm told they are called here) and I can see only two options: Burberry and Aquascutum ("Heritage" and "Corby").

I tried both on today and like each one. Feeling indecisive. I'll spare you all the long pros and cons list. Anyone care to render an opinion? Perhaps someone who's given either one the test of time?

Summer's on its way you could just use an umbrella. Living in London I survive with and umbrella and overcoat in town and have never had a raincoat though I do have some Berghaus and SOS waterproof jackets for sports etc..
post #43956 of 48312
Thanks for all the advice gents. Clearly I've got an enjoyable hunt on my hands. I've got a basic waxed cotton long coat and a Goretex packable jacket. But nothing waterproof that I can throw over a suit. Lucky indeed that it is summer.

I made a little pit stop this morning. I'll have to organize my photos. But here's a taste of things to come.

post #43957 of 48312

Awesome - is that the PP exhibition? I've been meaning to go.

 

Does that one wear quite slim on the wrist?

 

PS: I'm glad to see "but nothing waterproof that I can throw over a suit", and I'd expect no less from a gentleman like you, but Jesus I see some sights, particularly on my commuter train. Guys in terrible suits wearing a North Face jacket or similar. Usually with a rucksack too, which is my #1 pet hate - rucksack with suit. What's that about? Is this just something we are guilty of in London, or is it a worldwide curse?

post #43958 of 48312

Yes, indeed. The exhibition is much more than a room full of old watches. I spent three hours in there and ultimately had to pass by a number of exhibits due to sheer information/pleasure overload.

 

Many pieces were brought out of Patek's own museum in Geneva for the first time ever, in celebration of their 175th anniversary.

 

A favorite item was the gilded singing bird (automaton) box. Apparently, great watchmakers have got up to a bit more than just fancy movements over the years. It was interesting to see some of the anachronistic treasures of which little has been written or "memed" about on the interwebs.

 

While I was waiting in line to see the Grandmaster Chime (assembly time 730 days, MSRP $2.5m) up close, one woman asked one of the attendants if "that is even better than a Rolex?"

 

The attendant didn't know where to begin...

post #43959 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by gopherblue View Post

But that's just it. They are a paid marketing vehicle for the brands. Not a serious editorial site. But they hold themselves out as the latter.

I find that Hodinkee's original content can be excellent, but I wish they'd lay off the fluff pieces — not only the advertorials about new watches, but also the constant hyping of auctions. The big houses have a strong presence in the watch industry and media. It's overt in some cases, such as scandal-plagued Antiquorum owning the heavily-moderated Timezone site. However, Hodinkee's enthusiastic cheerleading can make it seem that there's less-obvious and possibly insidious influence happening as well.

Conincidentally, they've just announced Jack Forster's appointment as managing editor; the same one who not so long ago lamented the toothless state of watch journalism. It would be good to see examples of his stated belief that there's a need for informed critique that isn't compromised by sponsors.
post #43960 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonHedonist View Post
 

While I was waiting in line to see the Grandmaster Chime (assembly time 730 days, MSRP $2.5m) up close, one woman asked one of the attendants if "that is even better than a Rolex?"

 

The attendant didn't know where to begin...

 

:brick:

post #43961 of 48312
That's what happens when such an event is free and open to the pubic.
post #43962 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonHedonist View Post
 

While I was waiting in line to see the Grandmaster Chime (assembly time 730 days, MSRP $2.5m) up close, one woman asked one of the attendants if "that is even better than a Rolex?"

 

The attendant didn't know where to begin...

 

No Crown No care

 

#SWAG #THUGLIFE #PPWHO? #BLINGBLING

post #43963 of 48312

Omega Deville chrono 24 is my favorite.

post #43964 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonHedonist View Post

 

While I was waiting in line to see the Grandmaster Chime (assembly time 730 days, MSRP $2.5m) up close, one woman asked one of the attendants if "that is even better than a Rolex?"

 

The attendant didn't know where to begin...

 

What did you think of the Grandmaster Chime?  When I saw it up close a few months ago, it was inside a glass case - still, I had no desire to put it on my wrist.  I can understand all the work that went into the complications, and even the level of craftsmanship required for the ornate engraving on and around the case and even the deployant clasp.  I can even understand the case size (47.4mm) and thickness (16.1mm, thinner than a DSSD).

 

But when it all came together and I actually saw the watch, I didn't quite have a favorable reaction, even if (a) I had the cash to blow on that piece; (b) I had the means to procure it (only six are to be sold worldwide) and (c) even if I relaxed my own view that watches are to be worn and not simply kept in a vault or admired from afar as part of a collection.  It just... did nothing for me.


Which is not how I reacted when I saw the Caliber 89 - even though I wasn't into pocket watches, I saw that thing and something inside me said "wow, what a beautiful piece."

post #43965 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by IGotId View Post
 

So I'm looking for a dress casual watch to 'pair' or complement my recently aquired BLNR; one that will be worn to work on a brown gator strap (most of my shoes are brown). I'd prefer a watch that is available w/ a bracelet but won't exclude a watch w/o one. I stopped by my local AD to try on the Tank MC, Tank Anglaise XL, & Calibre de Cartier. I was pleasantly surprised to see that a smaller 38mm CdC is now available. 

I really like the larger 42mm, particulary given how it's available w/ a bracelet. However I'm reluctant to purchase one as I've flipped both of my recent >40mm watches (my Polar Exp II & my Speedy 9300). I was actually impressed at how the 38mm wore more similar to a 40mm watch.'

I'd like to hear thoughts from others!

Tank MC:

The three watches you looked at share the same movement, the inhouse cal 1904 MC.  I've tried the 42 CdC and the Tank MC, but have yet to try on the CdC 38.  I have Cartier's discontinued, or as they like to say "Retired" 38.5mm Pasha 950 Chronograph and I can comfortably go back and forth between that watch and any of my 40mm watches.  

 

Personally, from what I can see I prefer the dial of the 38mm CdC to the 42.  I prefer that on the 38 they are not going from Romans on top to stick markers at the bottom, and that the 38 doesn't have that annoying IWC-ish date window that displays 3 dates.  As mentioned I have not tried the 38 on, so I can't say whether there is a ratio of height to diameter that might matter to me on some watches.  

 

I do think the option of being able to go from a bracelet to a strap is nice, however, I am not really a fan of the bracelet on the CdC.  I thought it was kind of clunky and not as refined as some bracelets Cartier has done in the past.   The bracelet on the 42 sort of strikes me as an elongated Oyster bracelet, but I just don't love it on that watch.  For me it wasn't all that comfortable on a bracelet, but maybe with some fine adjustments it would be better.  

 

Overall, I liked the Tank MC.  I thought it had a nice profile and it fit comfortably on my wrist.  Also, if you currently have 2 watches, it might be nice to have a different shape in your collection.  My sports watches and daily wearers are round, but all of my dress watches are non-round cases, so its also adds a completely different look at feel when I go to non-round case. Cartier is known for their Tank watches and the MC is their newest and sportiest version.  I've had a Tank dress watch for about 7 years and its one of my favorite pieces.    

 

Wishing you luck with whatever you decide.  :cheers:

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