or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 2763  

post #41431 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axelman 17 View Post

On a related note, I really like the JLC ultra thin duo but can't get past the numeral at 12. Oddly enough, it looks like the stainless version has sticks at 12 which I think is more balanced. I wonder what goes into the decisions on how much homogeny is desired across metals.

 

I hadn't noticed that before you mentioned it but you're right - the SS version has baton/stick markers all round the dial, including at the 12 o'clock position, whereas the gold version has the numeral 12 in that position only, with batons for the other positions.

 

I definitely prefer the uniformity of the SS version or, as in Keith's non-Duotime version, the gold case with the positions marked entirely in numerals.

post #41432 of 48312
Well done Keith. Looks sublime. Wear in the best my friend

R
post #41433 of 48312
Keith, I quite like your finalist as well as the VC. nod[1].gif
post #41434 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by no frills View Post


In general service times are pretty long - six months or more. It's a problem that Patek has been trying to address for some time.

Out of that six month service time, how much time does your watch spend sitting around waiting for someone to attend to it and how much time does it spend actually being serviced?

I took my wallet to Hermes wanting to get it cleaned, they also quoted me a minimum six month waiting period. I guess it doesn't matter so much when you have multiple watches and may not miss one in rotation for six months, but what am I supposed to do in the meantime - get a new wallet??
post #41435 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by aleksandr View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by no frills View Post


In general service times are pretty long - six months or more. It's a problem that Patek has been trying to address for some time.

Out of that six month service time, how much time does your watch spend sitting around waiting for someone to attend to it and how much time does it spend actually being serviced?

I took my wallet to Hermes wanting to get it cleaned, they also quoted me a minimum six month waiting period. I guess it doesn't matter so much when you have multiple watches and may not miss one in rotation for six months, but what am I supposed to do in the meantime - get a new wallet??

There is one Master Watchmaker (actually, last I spoke to him, there are now two) trained and licensed by Patek to service one of my Grand Complications in the US. He also happens to be their Director of Technical Services. Anything above a perpetual calendar chronograph like a tourbillon, split seconds chrono or minute repeater needs to be sent to Geneva, where there are about three people who Patek believes can do the job. These guys need about two decades with Patek - not any other watchmaker - before they can even touch a Grand Complication. They make about $350,000 a year or so, but despite all that it's not like there are tons of young people applying to watchmaking school.

I'm not a Patek apologist, nor do I agree with everything they decide to do or product designs they launch; but I've been inside their operations several times and they do a bang up detailed job, given their resources. I still don't like the long service times, which I've duly expressed directly to Thierry Stern.

Till then, I suppose I get in line (how many other collectors with watches valued far more than mine are in line? I don't know, but I'm not about to become some demanding whiner). I can also grow dissatisfied with the service and buy some other watch. Alternatively, I'm also free to send my perpetual calendar chronograph to be serviced and warranties by a third party watchmaker.

Service times are a systemic problem across many watchmakers. That collector that wrote an open letter via Hodinkee was quite eloquent about it.
post #41436 of 48312
Other fun statistic I picked up last December: there are 21 watchmakers at Patek USA. Each year, they service 5,500 watches (this only counts a full service, not relatively simple requests like setting the time or changing the strap).

So, that's about 260 watches per watchmaker, or about one watch fully serviced per business day, over the course of a year. Not counting weekends or holidays.

Have any of you guys ever disassembled and reassembled a movement? You sure you want to rush these guys so service times could be shorter?

There are several solutions to this, but I don't want to get into discussing business strategy and human resources planning. Patek can sell less watches, for higher prices. Patek can pay more and more to provide incentives for young watchmakers to mature in the trade or even enter school. Blah blah, etc etc. But none of them are quick fixes. As it stands, Patek USA has just beefed up their staff count by about 25% - but that's over the course of last year or so.
post #41437 of 48312
His point is that it only takes a day to do the service, why must they have your watch hostage for 6 months

Why not, for instance, book your service 6 months in advance if that is the wait time, and make sure it arrives at least a few days before its scheduled service day
post #41438 of 48312
@Keith T Looks fabulous man
post #41439 of 48312
Congrats Keith T from another GRUT fan.
post #41440 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by no frills View Post

Montblanc-Montegrappa-ST Dupont-Nakaya

 

Knew you'd come through...thanks for the tips!

 

I'm going to have to fiddle with some Montblancs in person, as they leave me a little cold so far.  Maybe it's just because they're so popular and the logo so well known...they almost appear generic.  Which is a little unfair.  I guess it's just the brand everyone knows here.  The Rolex of pens.  And so that shouldn't be a bad thing.

 

I've seen all those special edition Montegrappas, but some of the simpler ones are pretty nice.  I like the Nero Uno, really like the Esspresione, and just discovered the entry-level Parolo that I'd not seen before: actually feels very nice, and might suit me.

 

But you've won me over with ST Dupont.  Those special editions like yours are beyond me (yours is totally the one I'd choose though!), but I really like the large "Neo Classique" in plain black.  I will get a rollerball; I'm too messy and juvenile for grown up ink and fancy nibs, but it's all about the feel in the hand.  Only problem is, this one seems to be an old line, and the few around are still over budget.  There's one in the local AD that I passed by chance earlier.

 

Those Nakaya things are really something.  How do the adjustable weights work exactly? Anyway, too much, but food for thought!

 

Must go and look at the MBs; otherwise it's probably Montegrappa, or an unlikely budget-busting Dupont: this is going to be a birthday present for me, so I don't want to ask too much.  

 

 

So, those watches eh?  Nice work, @KeithT !

post #41441 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by skeen7908 View Post

His point is that it only takes a day to do the service, why must they have your watch hostage for 6 months

Why not, for instance, book your service 6 months in advance if that is the wait time, and make sure it arrives at least a few days before its scheduled service day

But that is an average 'no? What if they open your watch up and it requires a lot more time?
post #41442 of 48312
^^^ Mind you, there are a number of ways to possibly increase efficiency. Shortest processing time instead of FCFS, etc etc. Scheduling more "predictable" efforts, as you mentioned. I may sound like I'm defending Patek, but I sure didn't sound like this when it took them two months to replace the pusher caps that one of my chronographs lost. "If the part is in stock, isn't it relatively as simple as replacing a watch strap?"

In any case, these are all tired old topics which we've discussed here in TWAT. And it's endemic to a bunch of watch companies. For example - and there are plenty of AP owners here, so correct me if your experience suggests differently - here are two cases in the past 18 months:

1. AP salmon dial, sent to Geneva. Complete service, no change in parts. Original estimated time, 8 weeks. Took over a year, and cost almost CHF3,000 (about USD3,100 or so given today's exchange rates). Just returned to my friend about a month ago.

2. AP Jumbo purchased on auction, sent to Geneva. Bezel needed replacing, and was also serviced completely. Took several months, and cost SGD3,600 (about USD2,700).

Relative to that, Patek's USD1,600 or so charge for servicing a Grand Complication (if no replacement parts are needed), seems rather affordable, especially since the APs above cost a fraction of, say, a Patek perpetual calendar chrono.

We can talk all day too about the relative ambiguity of pricing, etc - why did (1) above cost more than (2), when (2) required a part to be replaced? - and that's just the start of the litany of complaints about watch company service practices. But I also wonder if we see far more posts about complaints and disappointed expectations: how many of us have had great experiences with watch companies, and how often do we post and rave about that?
Edited by no frills - 3/2/15 at 6:34am
post #41443 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by no frills View Post

^^^ Mind you, there are a number of ways to possibly increase efficiency. Shortest processing time instead of FCFS, etc etc. Scheduling more "predictable" efforts, as you mentioned. I may sound like I'm defending Patek, but I sure didn't sound like this when it took them two months to replace the pusher caps that one of my chronographs lost. "If the part is in stock, isn't it relatively as simple as replacing a watch strap?"

In any case, these are all tired old topics which we've discussed here in TWAT. And it's endemic to a bunch of watch companies. For example - and there are plenty of AP owners here, so correct me if your experience suggests differently - here are two cases in the past 18 months:

1. AP salmon dial, sent to Geneva. Complete service, no change in parts. Original estimated time, 8 weeks. Took over a year, and cost almost CHF3,000 (about USD3,100 or so given today's exchange rates). Just returned to my friend about a month ago.

2. AP Jumbo purchased on auction, sent to Geneva. Bezel needed replacing, and was also serviced completely. Took several months, and cost SGD3,600 (about USD2,700).

Relative to that, Patek's USD1,600 or so charge for servicing a Grand Complication (if no replacement parts are needed), seems rather affordable, especially since the APs above cost a fraction of, say, a Patek perpetual calendar chrono.

We can talk all day too about the relative ambiguity of pricing, etc - why did (1) above cost more than (2), when (2) required a part to be replaced? - and that's just the start of the litany of complaints about watch company service practices. But I also wonder if we see far more posts about complaints and disappointed expectations: how many of us have had great experiences with watch companies, and how often do we post and rave about that?

 

Some companies are doing a better job and some companies are doing a worse job.  I think it is good to shine a light on it from time to time in hopes of the companies keeping cognizant of it.  Or at least keeping potential buyers informed.   

post #41444 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith T View Post

And the one that I chose to call my own.....


Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin

 

@Keith T!!! Congratulations and wear that beauty in good health!!!!!

post #41445 of 48312
I've always maintained I would never buy a nice pen because I would almost certainly lose it, but damn, some of those posted in the past few pages are niiiice.

Whats a good online shop to peruse (wide selection, decent prices) to look for something to kop? Entry level at this point of course, Dupont Chinese Lacquer maybe.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
This thread is locked  
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...)