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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 2736  

post #41026 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post

Love the first one Dino - available?

Hi Thinkderm, that one was part of a limited series in Cartier's Collection Privee. That model was made from 2006-2007, only 200 were made in rose gold and 50 in platinum. There is a current/revised version but it's slightly larger, doesn't have a guilloche dial, and doesn't have a display back with rectangular movement.
post #41027 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

Hi Thinkderm, that one was part of a limited series in Cartier's Collection Privee. That model was made from 2006-2007, only 200 were made in rose gold and 50 in platinum. There is a current/revised version but it's slightly larger, doesn't have a guilloche dial, and doesn't have a display back with rectangular movement.

Thanks. Pm sent
post #41028 of 48312
I spent some time looking at watches this weekend. Mainly Breguet, A. Lange & Sohne, and Glashutte. Here are some pics of the most notable ones.

Breguet 5817B from the Marine collection. This might have ended up my favorite and I really hadn't seen it before. While it looks similar to some of the classiques, it's part of the Marine collection. Part of the reason I liked it better than some of the other Breguets was because of its thickness and weight. It felt a lot more substantial than the 5177 and others. I like the guilloche dial better as well.

fbbx3c.jpg

e332v.jpg

Here's a nice pic of it I found online:

breguet_image.584391.jpg




Breguet 7787. I liked this a lot more in person than when I saw it online, especially the numbers. However, it felt a bit too light weight.

Breguet_7787.jpg




A. Lange & Sohne - Richard Lange.

Lange_Richard_Lange.jpg





A. Lange & Sohne 1815

Lange_1815.jpg





Glashutte Senator Moonphase

Glashutte_Senator.jpg





Breguet - Part of Manual Wind collection. This one was a bit weird shaped. Very large but very flat.

Breguet_Manual.jpg
Edited by Superfluous - 2/16/15 at 7:56am
post #41029 of 48312

Those Breguets have maybe a touch too much personality to work as dress watches.  Maybe that's an odd thing to say, but they're at once both very formal and yet rather..loud?  I like the first Marine a lot, though it's a bit bling in gold - and in steel on rubber, does it really work as a sports watch?  Maybe in the same way as that Type XX Aeronavale I was admiring: not truly sporty, more for sitting on your yacht looking at the sea, than jumping in it.

 

The classic 1815 is beautiful, though some just can't bear the disorder of the bitten-away numbers around the subdial.  But for me, the pick of the bunch has to be the Richard Lange: it's so simple and subtle, but the more you look at it, the more you realise how much thought and care has gone into it.  It's very much on my dream list.  Stare long enough to notice how precise all the tiny numbers and markers are, that the razor-thin second hand is blued, and that the minute numbers at the cardinal points are actually painted in red: barely perceptible, yet just enough to warm up the dial without your noticing.  Purists might want two hands only for a truly formal dress watch, perhaps no minute markers either, and not everyone loves Roman numerals.  But the steady practicality and clarity of all those things is just so very German.  I really love this watch - it just sings to me of everything Lange is good at, without having to rely on any of the more obvious trademark features of the house style.

 

As for Glashuette Original, someone will inevitably pipe up and accuse them of being a maker of gimcrack Lange homagesor something along those lines.  And although I don't agree entirely, there are too many similarities between some of the Panos and the Lange 1.  But the Senator is great - in the classic shape like this, and the Sixties and Seventies shapes too.  For me, this one's caught between two places: too many features to be simple and clean, and yet the moonphase and date look a little lost on that big fat face, like they're sliding around.  I like the Senator Perpetual: it's also available in steel, and not a crazy price if bought used - even new ones have pretty fierce discounts around.  It has a really attractive relief moonphase, and with the extra date details, really balances out nicely.

post #41030 of 48312
Please pick one of the Langes.
post #41031 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by no frills View Post

Congratulations! Is that in WG or steel?

WG. I couldn't warm up to the grey-on-grey look of the steel face...not enough contrast. The grained texture of the WG face is stunning.
post #41032 of 48312

Fair comment; the dial on yours really sings.  Great kop.

post #41033 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by gopherblue View Post

Ok, so I suspect I'll be accused of being the pot calling the kettle black...

But the trifecta of pre-increase price, VAT refund and exchange rate made it an offer I couldn't refuse--so here's my grail acquisition:



Waiting for the Overground in London.

That's a beauty. I love that little year window, which you are just going to have to watch tick over NYE. Enjoy.
post #41034 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post

Is the Speedmaster Pro something that you guys think would work in a dressy environment if you put a leather strap on it once in a while, or do all the dials rule it out of this category? I am trying to decide what is a solid, versatile starter watch for someone that doesn't wear suits very often, and it seems that the Speedy Pro is the safest bet in this price range and category.

Having just got a Speedy i'd say it isn't a natural suit watch. It's less the sub-dials and more the bezel and the size - it wears quite large. Having said that, it's a great watch and if you only wear a suit every so often you may get away with it. As someone else said, I've seen worse.

Edit: i'd add, it's certainly a good solid choice as a first watch, decent value and with an interesting history behind it; and if in the future you decide you want to add a more dressy watch because you're wearing suits more often then welcome to TWAT my friend, we are your enablers.
post #41035 of 48312

Breguet makes nice watches, but again for what they cost I would almost always rather have something from another brand.  Their Marine line has never appealed to me.  It targets an interesting part of the market as it straddles the line between dress watch and sports watch, but I just don't love it.  I don't love the dial with the large date cutting into the 6 position, and I don't liked the lumed Breguet hands...the loose some of their elegant classic looks by doing that.  In addition, they guilloche pattern chose for this one doesn't appeal to me.  I also would not spend to have it in gold.  I would rather go more sporty with a Type XX or choose a more dressy watch.  I have tried on the 7787 and overall its nice and I like the dial, but I too found it a bit light for my liking.  I also wish the lugs were a tad thicker.

 

Of the other watches posted, the Richard Lange would be my choice.  Love the heft of the case, the lugs, and the movement.  The dial is restrained, but I expect that of a German watch.  

 

As for GO, I think the Senator line is quite nice.  Maybe I could consider one in steel, but not gold.  In the end, one AD is always trying to get me into the brand, but I just don't come away loving them enough to consider one.  Sort of like Blancpain, nice watches, but I find them a bit like 2nd choice to any of my true loves so why bother.  Yes, they tend to cost less than some of the others but at the end of the day once its on your wrist if its in your budget...you should love what you are looking at and with GOs I don't .  Once a watch is paid for, its looks and how much you do or don't love looking at it on your wrist will last longer than thoughts of price.   

 

Wishing you luck on your journey.

post #41036 of 48312
Richard Lange without a doubt
post #41037 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerP View Post

Not anywhere near my idea of a dress watch, but way better than what I see a lot of guys wearing with their suits.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tricky View Post

It works well as a versatile starter watch and takes on very different looks depending on the strap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dachshund View Post

Having just got a Speedy i'd say it isn't a natural suit watch. It's less the sub-dials and more the bezel and the size - it wears quite large. Having said that, it's a great watch and if you only wear a suit every so often you may get away with it. As someone else said, I've seen worse.

Edit: i'd add, it's certainly a good solid choice as a first watch, decent value and with an interesting history behind it; and if in the future you decide you want to add a more dressy watch because you're wearing suits more often then welcome to TWAT my friend, we are your enablers.

Thanks for the all the input gentlemen. Outside the Speedy Pro, any other suggestions for a "versatile starter watch" in the price range? Does anyone find the mechanical winding aspect of it cumbersome in the long run?
post #41038 of 48312
I'd look at Rolexes - an Explorer or a variation on a steel Date. Winding isn't cumbersome - takes a minute in the morning. Puts you in touch with your watch. Personally I enjoy the process.
post #41039 of 48312
I see there's a lot of Richard Lange love. However, its about $30k with minimal discounts, and it has a design found in many other brands. It doesn't have any distinct features that represent A Lange or that watch specifically. It's also on the more dressy side of all of these watches.
post #41040 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post




Thanks for the all the input gentlemen. Outside the Speedy Pro, any other suggestions for a "versatile starter watch" in the price range? Does anyone find the mechanical winding aspect of it cumbersome in the long run?

I always quite enjoyed winding my Speedy Pros. As hotdog says below, it does put you in touch with your watch.

I don't think I weighed in on the original question, but I think the Speedy is a wonderful "versatile starter watch". It was my first real watch that I purchased. Unless you are in a suit 24 hours a day/7 days a week, I personally wouldn't worry about it. As others have said "I've seen worse". 

 

I would also suggest an Omega Ref. 2254.50. It's discontinued so you'd have to go pre-owned, but it is a great watch. I owned one for a while.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dachshund View Post

I'd look at Rolexes - an Explorer or a variation on a steel Date. Winding isn't cumbersome - takes a minute in the morning. Puts you in touch with your watch. Personally I enjoy the process.

I agree with the Explorer recommendation. A pre-owned 36mm model can be had for a bit more than a nice Speedmaster. That is...if the size doesn't scare you. I think it is versatile, sports watch perfection.

 

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