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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 2673post #40081 of 483121/23/15 at 6:56ampost #40082 of 483121/23/15 at 7:08amQuote:
While interesting, I don't think reading the info on that watch would ever be intuitive for me outside of maybe their two time zone model. I also really don't like the case/lug design and it's not exactly inexpensive for modified ETA movements (though I think the design creativity makes up for some of that).post #40083 of 483121/23/15 at 7:10amQuote:
ADs should offer some kind discount I think. But definitely check the classifieds on the watch forums. I am partial to Rolex Forum Classifieds so I would start there.
Good luck!post #40084 of 483121/23/15 at 7:15am
I will agree with you that the case and lug design is not the nicest out there. I never like seeing a seam in the side profile of a case, particularly on a $10k-ish watch.
But my suspicion is that reading the date would get to be pretty easy. The hour markers also mark multiples of 5 days. So you just count a few out from there until it's second nature.
I like that there are no numbers or words anywhere on the dial. Considering the data available from the watch, it's quite creative indeed.post #40085 of 483121/23/15 at 7:18amQuote:Thanks! The watch is discontinued, so ADs might be out of the question for me; I could call my local Omega dealer and see what the word is though. They might have one sitting around? I'll start searching through the watch forum classifieds, starting with the Rolex Forums. Thanks again! I appreciate the help!!
Edited by Krish the Fish - 1/23/15 at 7:31ampost #40086 of 483121/23/15 at 7:20am
Yeah, I've looked at OuJ before, I know how they all are set up to be read, but I still have a tough time imagining it becoming intuitive. If it was my only watch, or one of two, maybe, but in a rotation I feel like I would be more frustrated than anything. At a glance, it just doesn't seem that intuitive, at a look with a pause, I'm sure it's great. Of course, I may just be slow.post #40087 of 483121/23/15 at 7:47amQuote:Originally Posted by Krish the Fish
Thanks! The watch is discontinued, so ADs might be out of the question for me; I could call my local Omega dealer and see what the word is though. They might have one sitting around? I'll start searching through the watch forum classifieds, starting with the Rolex Forums. Thanks again! I appreciate the help!!
Derp. Sorry, my oversight there. You might find NOS, but thats a tough bet.
Good luck with the classifieds!post #40088 of 483121/23/15 at 8:29amQuote:Originally Posted by Kaplan
^ I didn't even think there could be a difference in how they wear - less grippy sounds good I guess? Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)My local AD described it as an attempt by Rolex to differentiate the watches, as if the ones with the polished clasp were 'better'. Don't know if he made that up himself, or if that's the official explanation. Either way, it's obviously a very minor thing, as it'll be hidden when worn :-)
I was purely thinking of aesthetics, as to me the matte looks noticeably worse than the polished (I do greatly prefer the all brushed bracelet though). Somehow, the polished clasp looks like a natural continuation of the stamped clasp I'm used to, while the bead blasted one kinda looks cheap to me - a little like 'silver' painted plastic, IYKWIM.
The salesman could be looking to up-sell. While the bead-blasting is a bit cheaper to produce than the high polish, it's the same part. Unlike some, they didn't cheap out on the movement finishing or anything, by the way.
I reckon the matte finish wears slightly nicer — if there's ever a hot day in Norway I'll confirm it — and it has a high-quality look and feel in real life. The polish and raised crown is probably more what most people associate with modern Rolex, whereas the counter-relief (thanks, Kap!) crown and matte innards are a little more old-school function-first style, along with the all-brushed Oyster and lug tops. Of course, the matte deployant parts are completely invisible on the wrist.
Both approaches work for me and give a touch of variety — vive la difference!post #40089 of 483121/23/15 at 9:50amQuote:
As for the intuitiveness of the display, I don't have any issues. Every hash on the day dial is five days, and I usually know the month and day of the week off the top of my head. Even those are easy to calculate relatively quickly. For example, the picture above was taken on Monday (one dot CCW on the lower day circle) June (six dots CCW on the upper month circle) 3rd (two dots CCW from the hash at the 5th on the outer date circle).
Edited by scottcw - 1/25/15 at 4:01pmpost #40090 of 483121/23/15 at 9:58amQuote:Originally Posted by gopherblue
I recommend Chubb's Masterpiece coverage. Spendier than most, but worth it. Very comprehensive coverage. I live in NYC, and with no car I couldn't get auto liability insurance since I can't get car insurance without a car. No matter. My coverage includes $5mm of umbrella liability, which is good worldwide...including for car accidents. As for watches....the policy came with $25K (per incident) coverage for watches/jewelry. Not separately scheduled, so no appraisal needed.
Now, will someone offer some additional thoughts on whether I should get the JLC perpetual ultrathin in steel or white gold? With the discount and VAT refund, the WG version is within spitting distance of the RRP on the boutique-only steel version.
Chubb definitely has a great reputation for insurance coverage, and for being relatively easy to deal with when you have to file a claim. The $25K per incident without a schedule and without an appraisal is great for a lot of folks. Still one should remember to add a schedule and send appraisals for specific items once the aggregate of your collection exceeds the $25K per incident. One might think well the average price of your watches might be $10K, and if you got mugged on the street you would just lose one watch well with in the policy limits. However, if there was a fire at your home or your home was broken into and you had 4 watches lost to fire or theft, each with a value of $10K, you would not have enough insurance to cover all of them. Just wanted to mention that its important for people to look at their policies carefully each year and consider what additions they made have made to their collection and/or whether the values of certain models have increased significantly such that they may or may not be properly protected using the previous year's policy structure and limits.Quote:
To Kap, Journeyman and Belligero... thanks for clarifying what the proper description is for the new crown design on the clasp. Regardless of what it is called I really like how it looks! Belligero, did you end up purchasing that new Rolex? If so Congrats!!! Its really a very interesting version of a classic Rolex.post #40091 of 483121/23/15 at 11:53amTrying to convince my wife to let me buy another watch given the pricing advantage right now. Things have already moved 4-8% down since I bought my Nomos and GMT in the last month. I think there's still a window for buying swiss watches in the EU where prices haven't yet gone up but the EUR is falling. With it at 1.14 USD, things look very attractive. Most likely target right now is a new moonwatch for $3k. Had they not recently updated the reference to add the fancy box, probably would have been $2500. Would love to pick up a daytona, but my friend won't be back in Spain until April and feel bad having her do the legwork again. Although, price of a Daytona ex-VAT is so attractive if I could get one.post #40092 of 483121/23/15 at 11:58amHey Dino! Of course I picked up the OP. I've been extolling its virtues ever since it came out, and having it on the wrist makes me like it even more. So yes, I've been on a bit of a spree lately due to the favourable currency situation here.
The basic Oyster offers a lot to appreciate and I recommend it highly to anyone who's considering the watch. And while the Deepsea isn't something I'd personally wear, it's a fun watch.
But I tell ya what. Their insano diver ain't that bad. Actually having the 116660 in hand has made me relent a bit on my mockery of its ungainly bulk. The quality is superb, the clasp is a work of mechanical art, and I can see how people can get into it. It's stupidly excessive in its depth rating, but wiggly-spring-based watches haven't had much practical reason to exist since quartz came around anyway. As a steel sculpture, it works. And you could definitely take it diving, even if you're not even scraping around 5% of its limit at the maximum depth allowed on the Norwegian Continental Shelf these days.
PS: UnFaconnable, I do not regret the Daytona one bit. Go for it if you find one; it's a good time to buy with your exchange rate, the VAT thing, and the Swiss-currency event.
Edited by Belligero - 1/23/15 at 12:12pmpost #40093 of 483121/23/15 at 12:35pm
@Belligero you have lost me. If it's not a silly question, and understanding that there's some kind of currency hedging in your mind, what have you actually bought, what are you keeping, and how does this all work in your peculiar mind?post #40094 of 483121/23/15 at 12:46pmQuote:
Thanks, I reached out to my AD in Spain so we'll see. Because of the weird US customs laws as applied to Rolex, I need to convince someone to get the VAT refund stamped and carry the watch with them on the plane back, so it's only an opportunity if my friend happens to be in Spain as she was in December and will be again in April. Who knows - I seem to have good luck so maybe fortune will strike in my favor again.post #40095 of 483121/23/15 at 2:35pmQuote:
FWIW, I bought my 2254.50 from a private seller on TZ.
Very smooth transaction, and the guy actually threw in a free rubber strap, although I've never used it.
This was probably around 2008, maybe? It was LNIB, I think I paid $1400 shipped, and Lord knows I've worn it quite a bit since then.
This was from last summer, on an "Admiralty grey" NATO:
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