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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 2650  

post #39736 of 48312
Newly serviced Seamaster Railmaster with a new brown leather strap. Omega did a great job fixing this thing up after a few years of nonuse.

post #39737 of 48312

I'm looking for some advice about my next purchase.  I'm looking at the pre-owned market and considering a Panerai Luminor.  I've always loved the design, and there's just not much else out there like it.  I've always admired them from afar, as I never expected to be able to afford one anytime soon.  My circumstances have recently changed, and I've set my limit I would spend at $5000.  I've seen many tempting listings for less, but I thought 5k would be an appropriate max budget.  Also I have actually tried one on, as a friend has a PAM111 and the size/shape wears well on my 8" wrist.  

 

All of that being said, as I now look at other options that could be had at/below that price point I'm wondering if a PAM would be my best option.  I know that ultimately it will come down to my personal choice, but I thought I would hear if anyone had a strong opinion for an alternative.  Some things I'm looking for:

 

- No Rolex.  It pains me to rule out, but given the reputation of the brand and how little people in my work/social circles know about the watch world I don't want the attention that surrounds a Rolex piece. 

- Nothing too "dressy."  I rarely am required to wear a suit, and so I'm looking for something to wear daily with business casual clothes.  

- My current rotation is a Tag Aquaracer 300m

and a Hamilton X-Patrol

 

(If I got a PAM I could see myself selling the Hamilton and keeping the TAG.  Alternatively, if I were to buy a diver or something similar I probably wouldn't hold on to the TAG.  I think a two-watch rotation works pretty well for me.)  

- I was looking at an Aqua Terra (41.5mm) as well, if that helps ballpark where my tastes are

- I like my TAG, but if it wasn't for the "stigma" (I mean that in the best way possible) of Rolex I'd probably into getting a sub and be done with it, as it seems like a no-brainer when it comes to any collection.

 

 So I'm really just beginning to start my collection.  Is a Panerai a decent choice, or given my circumstances are there better options to be had?  Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

post #39738 of 48312
Well, there are certainly many options in your price range.

Look at the Omega Speedmaster 3570.50 - the original moonwatch. It is excellent and can be had for under $3k.

Panerais are distinct and have no real competition in terms of styling and heritage. Their size precludes them from working for everyone, so try before you buy.

I would not dismiss Rolex simply because others around you won't understand. Are you buying a watch for yourself or for others?
post #39739 of 48312

If you want a large, casual watch, perhaps some kind of pilot would suit?

 

Also, I get both sides of that debate on Rolex, and Moo's right - buy what you really like.  But if you want to be more subtle, then you might find Panerai is becoming more recognisable than you think: and if you do know what a Luminor looks like, you can see one from a mile away!

post #39740 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Moo View Post

Well, there are certainly many options in your price range.

Look at the Omega Speedmaster 3570.50 - the original moonwatch. It is excellent and can be had for under $3k.

Panerais are distinct and have no real competition in terms of styling and heritage. Their size precludes them from working for everyone, so try before you buy.

I would not dismiss Rolex simply because others around you won't understand. Are you buying a watch for yourself or for others?

 

I've always wanted a Speedmaster as well, but for some reason as I'm looking now I don't feel the same urge to buy as I once did.  I would guess at some point I will own one, however.  

 

As I said I have tried on/worn a PAM111 (44mm diameter), and I think I wear it well.  The size will take some getting used to, but I liked the heft.

 

I understand the notion of buying for myself rather than others, and if Rolex was what I truly wanted over all other brands and models I would buy regardless.  My point was that it seems like less of a risk to invest in a Rolex than a Panerai, but that at this point I lean toward the style of the Panerai models over the Rolex models.  I will own a Rolex some day, but it just feels like at my age/occupation it might not be the time.  

post #39741 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post
 

If you want a large, casual watch, perhaps some kind of pilot would suit?

 

Also, I get both sides of that debate on Rolex, and Moo's right - buy what you really like.  But if you want to be more subtle, then you might find Panerai is becoming more recognisable than you think: and if you do know what a Luminor looks like, you can see one from a mile away!

 

I like pilots, but I don't know if that's the direction I want to go in at the moment.  

 

I guess part of the appeal of the Panerai is it seems to be in the sweet spot of being recognized by those who know a little about watches, but without ubiquitous of the Rolex reputation.  

post #39742 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by aleksandr View Post

Also, on the question of bulk - you really have to try watches on to see how bulky they are on your wrist. You may be surprised.

Or you can roll the dice and kop without ever trying on!

But seriously, I would never recommend that to someone who has not owned a number of watches in various sizes and can make a fair assumption based on measurements and past experience, like you would a suit.

[quote name="wootx" url="/t/36253/the-watch-appreciation-thread/39720_20#post_7616084"I also take the opportunity to apologize for the stream of (silly) questions I'm spamming this thread with. Cheers![/quote]

None needed. Its what makes this thread great.

---

As to dial color, I personally have no fave color overall, and I think most basic colors, black, gray, white, silver and blue, can all be winners. I think some watches lend themselves better to one color over another, while others are great with many colors. Personally, if I have more than one watch, I prefer them to have different color dials.
post #39743 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by lomaxbernie View Post

 

part of the appeal of the Panerai is it seems to be recognized by those who know a little about watches, but without Rolex reputation.  

 

Fair enough.  And as you've suggested that you might be planning to buy and sell a bit over the years, one thing the two marques share, almost uniquely, is excellent residual value - especially if you buy mint used in the first place.

post #39744 of 48312
I am not sure what you really gain by moving from the Aquaracer to a sub other than brand mystique. I know that will be controversial view here, but you already own a solid diver watch, so ask yourself honestly, in what ways has it let you down or shown itself to be inadequate? If you were starting from scratch, you could say a Rolex might be preferable, but are the reasons sufficient to switch?

Given your two watches, what you are really missing is a simple dialed dressier watch - like the Aqua Terra in white, or a datejust.

But if you are dead set on "upgrading", I would start with the Hamilton.
post #39745 of 48312
Thanks to the history associated with them (and of course the technical specs) I have been interested in Doxa's orange-faced watches for quite some time and used the current discounted prices (thanks slumping €) as an excuse to finally get one and it arrived today!




My Sub 1200T Professional:


I've only had it a few hours, but I couldn't be happier with the quality of the finish and the fit. Thanks to the design of the cushion case, the watch seems to fit much smaller than its 42mm would indicate (and still fits nicely under a shirt cuff) and the BOR bracelet seems like it will be extremely comfortable over the long haul.


I had been going back and forth on various vintage and new Doxas over the past year or so but am very happy with my choice. All of my diving is currently done at the desk but this might soon have me dreaming of exploring some Great Lakes shipwrecks...


On an unrelated note, I've recently been bitten by the el Primero bug and am being really tempted by the 38mm version. I'm headed to Naples, FL in a couple months and there is an AD in the area I may have to swing by. nod[1].gif
post #39746 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

I am not sure what you really gain by moving from the Aquaracer to a sub other than brand mystique. I know that will be controversial view here, but you already own a solid diver watch, so ask yourself honestly, in what ways has it let you down or shown itself to be inadequate? If you were starting from scratch, you could say a Rolex might be preferable, but are the reasons sufficient to switch?

Given your two watches, what you are really missing is a simple dialed dressier watch - like the Aqua Terra in white, or a datejust.

But if you are dead set on "upgrading", I would start with the Hamilton.

 

Yeah, I love my Aquaracer and would prefer something other than a diver for my next purchase.  When I started my recent search I was looking for something like an Aqua Terra or Datejust before considering a Luminor.  Something about those seems less interesting now, though.  But I'm wondering if one of those might be a safer choice.  

post #39747 of 48312
Nice pick up, MP!
post #39748 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Moo View Post

Thanks. My wrists sort of ebb and flow in diameter throughout the day, so the bracelet tightness varies as well.

 

I never realized how much variance there was until last week. I wore my new Grand Seiko all last week in Vegas for CES and felt I had to take it off some times due to tightness.  This was really my first experience wearing a metal bracelet for an extended period of time.

 

Overall really enjoying this watch.  It's incredibly accurate and wears smaller than its 43.5mm size would lead one to think.  I will likely add in one more half link as when I'm warmer I definitely could use a little more breathing room on the bracelet.Does make me wish it had some kind of micro adjustment capabilities, but I think I'll be able to deal with it.

 

A lume shot from my last night...

post #39749 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by lomaxbernie View Post
 

 

I like pilots, but I don't know if that's the direction I want to go in at the moment.  

 

I guess part of the appeal of the Panerai is it seems to be in the sweet spot of being recognized by those who know a little about watches, but without ubiquitous of the Rolex reputation.  

Everyone is different, but for me...the idea of choosing a Panerai because its recognizable watch, well that doesn't sound like a plus.  If as you mentioned you are concerned about Rolex being recognized at your "age and occupation this isn't the time" I don't see how a Panerai is a better choice.   Anyone who knows anything about watches, would know a Panerai, a Rolex, or an Omega. Those who don't know watches that well are still going to notice a giant tuna sized watch on your wrist (and they can easily google it).   An Omega or Rolex will easily fit under a dress shirt sleeve for when you need to be more discreet. 

 

I love the case shape of the Panerais, and their history, but I just don't love the less expensive models.  My biggest issue, and reason I'd rather have an Omega or a Rolex (both of which I think provide a lot more bang for the buck), are the movements.  At $5,000 you are probably getting a pre-owned Panerai with a Unitas movement.  Its a solid work horse and its fine, but commonly found in much cheaper watches.  To me that has the same appeal as buying a BMW, but getting one that has an engine from a Honda Civic.  The Civic engine is a good solid engine, but if I'm buying a BMW I would want a BMW engine (or maybe an Alpina engine if the engine has to be from an outside company).  So for that reason, the basic Panerais just always feel a bit like a fancy case hiding a lack of substance.

 

I would be fine with a Panerai that had either an in house movement or maybe one of their old chronographs that used the Zenith El Primero movement, but I think those aren't going to be with in the budget.  As always, if you love the Panerai go for it.  Wishing you luck with your search for your next watch. 


Edited by Dino944 - 1/12/15 at 1:06pm
post #39750 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michigan Planner View Post

Thanks to the history associated with them (and of course the technical specs) I have been interested in Doxa's orange-faced watches for quite some time and used the current discounted prices (thanks slumping €) as an excuse to finally get one and it arrived today

Congrats on your Doxa.  I always think of the Clive Cussler (Dirk Pitt) books when I see a Doxa.  :cheers:

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