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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 2599  

post #38971 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belligero View Post


It's not only the gloating about the "pricing power of image" that turns me off, but it's also the results of this contempt for customers. I just plain don't trust IWC.

Case in point:


original photo: tonny b on iwc.com/forum

This is the inside of a watch that costs five figures.

The apologists say "big deal, it's a closed back", but display backs are a relatively new thing (and a silly one in most applications) and it's a bit of an insult to the tradition of watchmaking. A decent watch should have something better than a cheaply bead-blast-finished movement. The principle is the same as the Panerai 318, which was another limited edition with corners cut.

Maybe it's a Richemont thing, just like the triple date window (thanks for pointing that out, Dino!).

 

This is fascinating to me as I am admittedly very naïve and green re: watches.  Could someone please show me a pic of the movement of an "exceptional" five figure watch?  I would like to see the difference and if anyone could briefly explain the nuances (or point me to link or other source material).

 

I don't want to derail the thread.

 

Many thanks!

post #38972 of 48312
Gotta run, but here's a closer look at what it doesn't look like:



smile.gif
post #38973 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by MRMstl View Post

This is fascinating to me as I am admittedly very naïve and green re: watches.  Could someone please show me a pic of the movement of an "exceptional" five figure watch?  I would like to see the difference and if anyone could briefly explain the nuances (or point me to link or other source material).

I don't want to derail the thread.

Many thanks!

Nearest pics to hand; my wife's Jules Audemars:



Edit: Here's the dial!

post #38974 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by digdigdig View Post
 

Planning to buy IWC, struggling with choosing between  Portuguese and pilot!!!! 

I have a 3777 and I love it!

 

Buy a pilot, if you love it and the brand, sell it and buy a Portuguese! 

 

Just start your journey with the brand and see what happens!

post #38975 of 48312
Ok so the discussions about IWC in-house movement at five figures, is that primarily talking about the Portuguese Classic 3904? What do folks think about that watch at about $8,500 (just on it's own) as well as compared to the Portuguese Automatic 5001? Reviews of the 3904 talk about the price being too high and clearly the second hand/unofficial dealer market agrees as I've seen several in the $8-9,000 range.
post #38976 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by MRMstl View Post

This is fascinating to me as I am admittedly very naïve and green re: watches.  Could someone please show me a pic of the movement of an "exceptional" five figure watch?  I would like to see the difference and if anyone could briefly explain the nuances (or point me to link or other source material).

I don't want to derail the thread.

Many thanks!

Think I asked a similar question recently; here's Foo's elaborate response.
post #38977 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTukker View Post


Think I asked a similar question recently; here's Foo's elaborate response.

 

Much obliged!

post #38978 of 48312
You can apply this logic to many industries. Cars, guns, etc. Attention to detail, even when it may not be seen/used is worth paying a premium for. It won't magically change your mind if you don't love it otherwise, but it matters when you get into top tier products.
post #38979 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belligero View Post

A Seiko 5 has an in-house movement that functions perfectly well and is quite robust, but I wouldn't pay 12Gs for one of those, either.
The Seiko 5 is an eye opener. The list price of $185.00 makes you wonder...........


post #38980 of 48312
post #38981 of 48312
Im somewhere between RFX and Belli on this, leaning more towards RFX.

I think that IWC movement is boring as heck, and they could have easily spruced it up a little, and from a marketing/advertising standpoint, they know people are gonna see that and its gonna be all over the web, so it was kind of a dumb move I think.

But if Im buying a closed back watch Id probably be more frustrated having a gorgeous movement that Ill never see than having a movement that is perhaps less interesting than Id like that I will never see.

In any case, if I loved the look of the watch, and if I felt the rather boring movement was of very high quality, an unseen boring movement decoration would probably not deter me.

I think a little more than is needed is being made of this.
post #38982 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

No clearly they are not.  Looks like its not just an IWC thing, Cartier thing or VC thing...unfortunately it seems like its becoming a Richemont thing...]

Add Parmigiani to the list of offenders. This is what my Kalpa Grande looks like (stock photo; mine is stainless):

Quote:
Originally Posted by DLJr View Post

On the triple date window, although I don't care for them, I do see their once an hour potential purpose. If the minute hand is covering the date, and you happen to need the date at that moment, it's not exactly a fun experience waiting for the minute hand to move out of view. Assuming you like a date window on a watch to be able to get the date at a glance, the triple date window is a solution to the problem of the minute hand blocking the view.

I think there's something to this reasoning, but I also get why some are annoyed by it.
post #38983 of 48312
Thanks everyone for your thoughts and suggestions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

Aleksandr, awesome news. Is there a price point/range you need to be in?

Not entirely sure what is going on in her head, though I would guess a good guide would be 8K thereabouts out the door (after haggling), possibly a maximum of 10K? I know my original 3 choices are safely below that number.
Quote:
Originally Posted by academe View Post

aleksandr would you consider the JLC Master Ultra Thin? They have a new 38.5mm model which I really like:





A bit dressier than the Master Control, but a really beautiful watch. I really like their Ultra Thin case; proportions and shape are elegant and fit nicely to the wrist. I'm looking forward to trying this one on in the metal; I've tried on a number of watches in this series, including the 40mm predecessor and the Ultra Thin Moon, and am a big fan. I think the balance and proportions on the new 38.5mm are better than on the 40mm Grande MUT which preceded it. The sun ray finished dial really is quite lively and changeable in daylight, catching different colours and hues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

@aleksandr
lucky you! The MUT Moon would be the TWAT favourite, I like the smaller MUT small seconds more than the Grand 40mm version, and there's a version of Delands' Port Royal with no date that I think is really smart. Just a left-field suggestion: have you looked at RGM?

Have not handled the MUT in the flesh - how much thinner is the MUT compared to the regular Master? I am somewhat wary of going into Altiplano territory, prefer something with slightly more body. Never heard of RGM, is that some esoteric TWAT acronym I should know about?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

Those sound like some great options. Two others to consider, if Cartier is of interest to you are the relatively new Rotonde retrograde second time zone day night indicator. The steel model on the right is around $9,650 USD. It uses an in house movement. I wish the date didn't cut out the 12 hour marker but I do like the case on these a lot. There is also a date power reserve model that is around $8,300. Whatever your wife chooses for you, I'm sure you will enjoy and more importantly you have a great wife!

Rotonde-De-Cartier-Second-Time-Zone-Day-Night-Trio-620x331.jpg

RotondeFront.jpg

Those dials are a little bit busy for my taste - can't quite put a finger on it but I think I would prefer something cleaner.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Delands View Post

I've been lurking around here for some time and I thought I'd chime in on this questions since I encountered something similar a couple of months ago.


My fiancée wanted to give me an engagement present in the form of a watch. Since she doesn't know much about watches she asked my input and I set up a long/short list and then visited some ADs with her to try on the watches and see them in the metal.


My requirements were a classic 3-hander with a silver/white dial on a strap. My initial list included the JLC Master Control, JLC Master Ultra Thin, a few Omega's from the Deville line, an IWC Portofino the Zenith Captain central second.


After trying these on, the final short list was between the JLC Master Control and the Zenith, but with the smoked dial. The AD only had the smoked dial in stock to try on and I just really liked it. It has a nice sunburst effect to it and adds something extra to the watch IMO.

Eventually, my fiancée chose the Zenith and I couldn't be happier. It's easy to dress up, but also to wear casually. It has almost become my only watch for the moment.

Here's a picture:



I hope it helps in your decision making process.

Your're very lucky with a wife like you have!

Ohh the Zenith is very nice! Thanks for the suggestion. The dial is very interesting.
post #38984 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by MRMstl View Post
 

 

This is fascinating to me as I am admittedly very naïve and green re: watches.  Could someone please show me a pic of the movement of an "exceptional" five figure watch?  I would like to see the difference and if anyone could briefly explain the nuances (or point me to link or other source material).

 

I don't want to derail the thread.

 

Many thanks!

Here's what's really important in a tool watch like the pictured IWC CF3. This is an in house integrated chronograph movement with column wheel and I believe a vertical clutch or other means to make for smooth switching of the chrono seconds hand on start up. It's a very high end movement and even has a long power reserve. In this particular watch it is surrounded by an anti-magnetic cage. This is a tool watch and no one will see the movement. I'd like to see better decoration and there are versions that are quite beautiful. Lets not forget the highly efficient Pellaton winding system.

 

Full disclosure: I moderate the IWC Forum on Timezone.com.

post #38985 of 48312
Agreed. Seems to happen a lot when IWC gets brought up biggrin.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

Im somewhere between RFX and Belli on this, leaning more towards RFX.

I think that IWC movement is boring as heck, and they could have easily spruced it up a little, and from a marketing/advertising standpoint, they know people are gonna see that and its gonna be all over the web, so it was kind of a dumb move I think.

But if Im buying a closed back watch Id probably be more frustrated having a gorgeous movement that Ill never see than having a movement that is perhaps less interesting than Id like that I will never see.

In any case, if I loved the look of the watch, and if I felt the rather boring movement was of very high quality, an unseen boring movement decoration would probably not deter me.

I think a little more than is needed is being made of this.
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