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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 2513  

post #37681 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by academe View Post


Lovely watches all.

Do you know if the AP Jules Audemars Chrono that you tried was an integrated chronograph or a modular chronograph? I love APs (have a RO Dualtime and have long coveted the Jules Audemars Extra Thing, ROO Diver and RO Jumbo), but my longstanding quibble with them is that they tend to use modular chronograph movements for their Offshore and Jules Audemars collections. Last I looked the Jules Audemars chrono had a modular movement; in fact that looks like a calibre 3120 movement (with chrono module added). The only integrated chronograph movement they appear to use is in the RO Chrono (F. Piguet movement). Given the prices they charge, I would prefer an in-house integrated column wheel movement. I realise that much of the cost is due to things like the excellent movement finishing and detailing, but given that their competition among the Big Three+Lange and even among the less august manufactures (e.g. JLC, IWC, etc.) have developed their own in-house integrated column wheel movements, makes me wish that AP would do the same.

I believe that the movement in the JA Chronograph is modular using the 3120 as a base.  While I understand the preference for an in-house integrated column wheel movement, if AP does develop one, I imagine it will carry a much higher price tag than their current offerings.  The offerings from Lange and PP all cost more than the JA chrono or the RO chronographs.  VC still uses the same F.Piguet movement in their Overseas chronograph, and AFAIK, they were using Lemania bases in their recent generations of chronographs such as the Traditionnelle.  I would also suggest that with Patek, JLC, and IWC are much higher volume producers of watches than AP and VC they can more easily spread out and recover the cost of R&D for chrono movements which are very costly and time consuming to develop.  Last production figures I saw were VC was about 20-25,000 watches annually, AP 33,000, Patek 55,000 and IWC was around 70,000.   So be careful what you wish for...we could eventually see APs with an integrated in-house column wheel movement...but at a far higher prices. 

post #37682 of 48312

Am getting a new alligator band to replace an old leather band (18mm) on my Hamilton Viewmaster. While I am at it, I am thinking about going with a deployant clasp. There seem to be two basic types: 1) the strap end is outside and the clasp against the skin; 2) the strap end is against the skin and the clasp is between the two ends of the strap.

 

Any thoughts about comfort? For those with experience of both types, which did you prefer? I've only owned the tang style until now ... Suggestions for aftermarket brands or manufacturers would also be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

post #37683 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerP View Post


What's in the Nomos box?

Tease.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chanoch View Post

Am getting a new alligator band to replace an old leather band (18mm) on my Hamilton Viewmaster. While I am at it, I am thinking about going with a deployant clasp. There seem to be two basic types: 1) the strap end is outside and the clasp against the skin; 2) the strap end is against the skin and the clasp is between the two ends of the strap.

Any thoughts about comfort? For those with experience of both types, which did you prefer? I've only owned the tang style until now ... Suggestions for aftermarket brands or manufacturers would also be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

I thought the Jazzmaster had a 20mm strap? You will certainly appreciate Alligator or Croc, it makes a great strap. If you do get a deployment, my 2 cents is get the single for comfort. I had a double deployment on my strap and I didn't really care for it. Plus it became a bit finicky.
post #37684 of 48312
Some updated pics of my Transocean on a brown aftermarket strap. I do prefer the strap but it now sits higher on my wrist making it more difficult to hide under the cuff.

This is my first experience with "Brietling style" and it will take some time to break in. I find it quite similar to Stowa's Nappa strap I had on my Antea but for half the price. I am pretty impressed with the quality so far. I will see how it wears. I am tempted to locate a darker brown, black or something in Alligator like the Hirsch Viscount.



post #37685 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cant kill da Rooster View Post


Tease.
I thought the Jazzmaster had a 20mm strap? You will certainly appreciate Alligator or Croc, it makes a great strap. If you do get a deployment, my 2 cents is get the single for comfort. I had a double deployment on my strap and I didn't really care for it. Plus it became a bit finicky.


Thanks, appreciate the tip about the double deployant maybe being more finicky. My Hamilton is 20 years old and maybe back then they made it with 18mm lugs, 'cause that's what mine are. The watch case also seems a bit smaller than today's version -- mine is 34mm, which is quite small by today's standards.

 

When you say 'single' deployant, do you mean with the excess strap against the skin or the clasp against the skin? Not sure which will be more comfortable after a day in the office.

post #37686 of 48312
I like that strap for the Transocean, and again, REALLY like the watch itself.
post #37687 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

I believe that the movement in the JA Chronograph is modular using the 3120 as a base.  While I understand the preference for an in-house integrated column wheel movement, if AP does develop one, I imagine it will carry a much higher price tag than their current offerings.  The offerings from Lange and PP all cost more than the JA chrono or the RO chronographs.  VC still uses the same F.Piguet movement in their Overseas chronograph, and AFAIK, they were using Lemania bases in their recent generations of chronographs such as the Traditionnelle.  I would also suggest that with Patek, JLC, and IWC are much higher volume producers of watches than AP and VC they can more easily spread out and recover the cost of R&D for chrono movements which are very costly and time consuming to develop.  Last production figures I saw were VC was about 20-25,000 watches annually, AP 33,000, Patek 55,000 and IWC was around 70,000.   So be careful what you wish for...we could eventually see APs with an integrated in-house column wheel movement...but at a far higher prices. 

Dino - understood. I supposes at AP's level of watchmaking, it's something I would have expected. It's admittedly a relative value judgement on my part...
post #37688 of 48312
671un9.jpg
post #37689 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by chanoch View Post


Thanks, appreciate the tip about the double deployant maybe being more finicky. My Hamilton is 20 years old and maybe back then they made it with 18mm lugs, 'cause that's what mine are. The watch case also seems a bit smaller than today's version -- mine is 34mm, which is quite small by today's standards.

When you say 'single' deployant, do you mean with the excess strap against the skin or the clasp against the skin? Not sure which will be more comfortable after a day in the office.

Ah, misread Viewmaster. The strap is outside on both.

The first two show the single and double deployment.
http://www.watchstyle.com/pi1191986688.htm?categoryId=157

Here is single deployment open.



Double.


Not my pics.
post #37690 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cant kill da Rooster View Post

Some updated pics of my Transocean on a brown aftermarket strap. I do prefer the strap but it now sits higher on my wrist making it more difficult to hide under the cuff.

This is my first experience with "Brietling style" and it will take some time to break in. I find it quite similar to Stowa's Nappa strap I had on my Antea but for half the price. I am pretty impressed with the quality so far. I will see how it wears. I am tempted to locate a darker brown, black or something in Alligator like the Hirsch Viscount.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerP View Post

I like that strap for the Transocean, and again, REALLY like the watch itself.

Agreed; I really like the styling on the Transocean, too. Any thoughts on the new bi-compax version of the Transocean recently discussed on Hodinkee?



It even has a neat officer's-style caseback:

post #37691 of 48312
The Transocean is hands down my favorite Breitling today. My favorites the 38 though despite it's eta movement.

The new chrono is nice and I like the center placement of the date (similar to the 38). It's just too thick though, that's the main drawback.
post #37692 of 48312
I know they say its more comfy, but I am so sad that JLC stopped doing the single deployant they had used. It was a thing of art.
post #37693 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by academe View Post

Dino - understood. I supposes at AP's level of watchmaking, it's something I would have expected. It's admittedly a relative value judgement on my part...

I definitely understand your feelings about the matter.  I suppose I look at it as a relatively new development in the world of watches, as 10-15 years ago few companies were making chronograph movements in-house. I think eventually AP and VC will also offer them.  However, it could mean that rather than seeing a ROC that is $24,300 or an Overseas Chrono that is $21,500, we will be seeing pricing that is on par with that of the Nautilus Chronograph at $51,000....and the JA chronograph could end up in the $86,000+ price range like Patek's 5170.  

post #37694 of 48312
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by RFX45 View Post

671un9.jpg

Looks super-elegant! I'm sure it dresses up nicely.

And seems a perfect size for your wrist, RFX.



@rooster: that strap should break in very well over time....looks just like OEM to my untrained eye.
post #37695 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by chanoch View Post
 

Am getting a new alligator band to replace an old leather band (18mm) on my Hamilton Viewmaster. While I am at it, I am thinking about going with a deployant clasp. There seem to be two basic types: 1) the strap end is outside and the clasp against the skin; 2) the strap end is against the skin and the clasp is between the two ends of the strap.

 

Any thoughts about comfort? For those with experience of both types, which did you prefer? I've only owned the tang style until now ... Suggestions for aftermarket brands or manufacturers would also be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Its sort of a personal thing and it can depend on your wrist and how the deployant sits on the inside of your wrist.  I know some people that prefer the single deployants and others that prefer the double deployant (butterfly style).  I have watches with both and I'm fine with either.  

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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...)