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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 2496  

post #37426 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Dlwgosh View Post

I think I found my Grail... just needed to tell someone. 39mm, classy.
(haven't spent much time in the TWAT over the last year, hope everyone's well!)
)


Very nice. It seems that I'm like more pieces from the Cellini line in recent years. There was a sweet dual-time on the inside cover the recent NYT special watch edition supplement.
post #37427 of 48312
Can somebody please jet over to the new VC Tokyo boutique and pick up one of the limited edition black-dial guilloche Traditionnelles for me? KTHX.

Shouldn't be any problem, they made like 20 of them.

(I'm not so greedy as to ask for the tourby LOL).

I can't seem to rip a photo off Hodinkee, but I assume everybody on TWAT probably starts their day by checking Hodinkee first anyway...

Here's a link:

http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/hands-on-with-three-new-vacheron-constantin-japan-exclusives-for-the-opening-of-their-first-tokyo-boutique
post #37428 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith T View Post

Can somebody please jet over to the new VC Tokyo boutique and pick up one of the limited edition black-dial guilloche Traditionnelles for me? KTHX.

I've never been much of a VC fan but that one is a real beauty.
post #37429 of 48312
FedEx won't clear delivery of my watch shipped from France until I give them my Social Security number. WTF?
post #37430 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

FedEx won't clear delivery of my watch shipped from France until I give them my Social Security number. WTF?


Yup, Happened to me before.
post #37431 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

FedEx won't clear delivery of my watch shipped from France until I give them my Social Security number. WTF?

Customs. Is this the strap or the watch itself?
post #37432 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

FedEx won't clear delivery of my watch shipped from France until I give them my Social Security number. WTF?

 



WTF indeed. One of many reasons I avoid couriers whenever possible.
post #37433 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

FedEx won't clear delivery of my watch shipped from France until I give them my Social Security number. WTF?

Wow.

At least you don't have to take off your shoes and submit to a full-body scan.
post #37434 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

FedEx won't clear delivery of my watch shipped from France until I give them my Social Security number. WTF?

Yep. It's that shady Importer of Record form. Form 5106.
post #37435 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

FedEx won't clear delivery of my watch shipped from France until I give them my Social Security number. WTF?

Wow. I would be very reluctant to do that. To me that has scam written all over it. FedEx or not. 

post #37436 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Beware, there is a Foo on the prowl and you will likely get a lecture not just on the technical aspects of aesthetic and functional finishing, but also on the superiority of objective aesthetics in comparing movements. That is dangerous ground.

Thanks D - I realize that he's back here in full force, but then again, that's kind of what I was looking for.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Sure, here are key things to observe when it comes to finishing:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
1. Bridges (the "plates" that provide the structural support for the movement) can be decorated with different sorts of finish, most commonly Geneva stripes or perlage. Very often, top plates are finished with Geneva stripes and the base plate underneath is finished with perlage, so the perlage peaks through the gaps between the top plates. Further, the edges of a bridge may be bevelled (anglage) and screws may be recessed, with the recessed edges brightly polished. On cheaper movements, bridges are often left with a rough finish.

Geneva stripes (may be straight lines as depicted or otherwise concentric circles)


Perlage


Anglage


2. The finishing of gear and wheel surfaces may be voluted (spiral patterned), star patterned (fine rays extending out from the center), or moire patterned (concentric lines). The edges of teeth may be chamfered and polished.

Voluted


Star patterned


Moire patterned


Chamfered teeth


3. Rubies may be set directly in holes drilled into bridges and plates or encased by gold chatons that are screwed into to the plate first. Chatons are rare these days and broadly deemed purely decorative. Patek does not use chatons; Lange does.

Directly set rubies


Gold chatons, with decorate blued screws


In truly excellent movements, less visible and unseen parts will be as equally well finished as the parts that are visible. This includes the side of the movement underneath the watch's dial.

All of the above speaks to types of finish, and not so much finish quality. The neater, more regular, and more precise, the better. It's entirely up to you how much to value ornateness versus quality. That said, it is easier to spot ornateness at first.

Many thanks Foo - much appreciated! Finish quality aside - which I assume can affect its accuracy - it seems that the appreciation of finishings is on par with e.g. the appreciation of a beveled shoe waist. As in, it may make the shoe more elegant, but not a better quality shoe.
post #37437 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

..
To a degree, it is subjective, but there are certainly movements that are prettier than others. Finishings, beveled edges, amount of different finishes and whether or not they look busy or complimentary, shape of rotor, material of rotor, solid or cut out, screw polishing/bluing, exposed gears, gems, layout of movement, swans necks, engravings.....

All these things factor in, and while some things most definitely fall in the category of beauty is in the eye of the beholder, some movements simply are more beautiful that others.

Foo, superb photo essay.

Interesting, many thanks IS. And agreed on Foo's photo essay bigstar[1].gif
post #37438 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTukker View Post

Many thanks Foo - much appreciated! Finish quality aside - which I assume can affect its accuracy - it seems that the appreciation of finishings is on par with e.g. the appreciation of a beveled shoe waist. As in, it may make the shoe more elegant, but not a better quality shoe.

I wouldn't say it doesn't make a better quality watch--it's just that there is more that goes into it. Keep in mind, mechanical watches are ridiculously obsolete technologically. Within reason, a collector generally doesn't pay more for a watch because it is more accurate (accuracy versus precision is another important distinction to understand). History/lineage, design, beauty, innovation, etc., all matter. Finishing quality is part of that. For me, it is actually critical.

My earlier point was that there is a difference between finishing quality and the ornateness of decoration. For example, a non-chamfered bridge plate can actually be better finished than a chamfered bridge plate (anglage). There is also good anglage and not-as-good anglage: compare JLC chamfering to Patek chamfering. To carry your analogy a little further, a shoe with a bevelled waist is not necessarily better made or better finished than one without, and some bevelled waists are better than others.
post #37439 of 48312

Why in the world would FedEx need a social? 

 

Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

FedEx won't clear delivery of my watch shipped from France until I give them my Social Security number. WTF?
post #37440 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by MTLinStyle View Post


They are telling me U.S. Customs needs it. I think because FedEx sucks at getting things cleared through customs. My international shipments have all been through UPS, DHL, or TNT in the past, and I've never had this issue.
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...)