The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

[no frills]

mcfrillster - excellent.

Thanks! OoOoO - a guessing game is afoot! I fear I do not have enough wide-ranging expertise in movements to be able to hazard a likely guess.

 

[Newcomer]



Thanks!  OoOoO - a guessing game is afoot!  I fear I do not have enough wide-ranging expertise in movements to be able to hazard a likely guess.

Nor do I, but I thought it was fun anywho

 

[Dino944]

Quote:
Great photo! It really shows off the various shades of color in the dial.

 

[Newcomer]

As of tomorrow, I am officially one month into my wait for the MUT Moon. Hopefully it won't take much longer. All paid up, and just waiting on delivery!

I never realized the depth of my impatience!

*Edited for clarity, sorry Warren! My initial post barely made sense .

 

[Warren G.]

Congrats man. One month will fly by, no problem.

 

[in stitches]



As of tomorrow, I am officially one month into my wait for the MUT Moon. Hopefully it won't take much longer. All paid up, and just waiting on delivery!
I never realized the depth of my impatience!
*Edited for clarity, sorry Warren! My initial post barely made sense .

i recommend a self induced coma to pass the time.

 

[Benjamin Chee HH]



the movement looks beautiful. lets see that bespoke enamel now.

My actual piece is still being made as it's a piece unique. The movement I showed you is the same that will go into my piece. Here is the enamel dial of the stock watch shown - it comes in an edition of four watches, each symbolising prosperity, longevity etc

 

[Benjamin Chee HH]



Honestly? And this is me putting my mega critic hat on! I am not normally this harsh! I think that the movement design is nice, but the movement finishing is not the best. I like the idea of the double balance wheels, and the 3/4 plate looks nice. I need a bit more info though! The geneva stripes are not as sharp as they could be, and the edges lack the best chamfering. Further, the chamfered edges are not polished.

But it depends on the price range! Are we comparing to independents like Dufour or Voutilainen?

This was me being INCREDIBLY picky . And honestly, I do need some better pictures to really assess it!

Yes this was exactly what I was looking for. Please be as merciless in your critique as possible. I expect the watches I design and the watches I buy to stand up to anything thrown at them.

I agree the finishing could be improved. The chamfering is done by hand according to the atelier but I think they could do better judging by what I've seen from their grande comps.

The symmetry and original layout of the chatons is very attractive in my opinion. It was conceived in 2011 by two grandmasters each with 50 plus years of watchmaking experience.

The geneva stripes were as good as any big 3 watch when I saw them in the flesh.

Price range of this is around 15k USD, so a fair bit less than the top independents.

They have another version with an enamel moonphase, that one is pretty interesting.

 

[Benjamin Chee HH]

Here's one with a lapis lazuli dial carved by hand, cased in 18k rose gold

And a minute repeater - tourbillon piece unique with another bespoke cloisonne enamel dial, for a female client. The case is massive in the hand!

 

[apropos]

I'd like to see better photos of the movement, and better photos of that lapis lazuli dial.

The first enamel dial is nice, but not quite at the level of what Le Sentier can achieve. I'd say stick with cloisonne.

Is there any particular reason for a double escapement or screwed gold chatons? Am genuinely curious.

 

[Benjamin Chee HH]



I'd like to see better photos of the movement, and better photos of that lapis lazuli dial.

The first enamel dial is nice, but not quite at the level of what Le Sentier can achieve. I'd say stick with cloisonne.

Is there any particular reason for a double escapement or screwed gold chatons? Am genuinely curious.

Will see if I can find some better shots.

By Le Sentier do you refer to JLC?

The enamels are all done by this chap called Master Xiong, the 3rd generation heir to an old imperial atelier in Beijing which used to handle the enamelling for the Imperial Court. The knowhow dates to the Ming era and the Chinese name for enamel is Jingtai Lan (since enamelling came to China during the reign of Emperor Jingtai, whereupon it was merged with indigenous Chinese art styles).

Well the double escapement yields a high power reserve, currently the highest for a Chinese watch. The gold chatons are just like for Lange - beauty in technicolour. It is much more laborious to assemble.

 

[dddrees]

Congrats man. One month will fly by, no problem.

X2

 

[dddrees]

My actual piece is still being made as it's a piece unique. The movement I showed you is the same that will go into my piece. Here is the enamel dial of the stock watch shown - it comes in an edition of four watches, each symbolising prosperity, longevity etc

Very nice, I can't wait to see what you dial looks like.

Did they give you any idea what exactly is going to be on it?

 

[no frills]

As of tomorrow, I am officially one month into my wait for the MUT Moon. Hopefully it won't take much longer. All paid up, and just waiting on delivery!

I never realized the depth of my impatience!

Oh man, good luck on the wait and hope it comes soon. I don't think I would have had the patience to wait that long. I am totally the kid who would have eaten that one marshmallow versus waiting for two.

 

[apropos]



Will see if I can find some better shots.

By Le Sentier do you refer to JLC?

The enamels are all done by this chap called Master Xiong, the 3rd generation heir to an old imperial atelier in Beijing which used to handle the enamelling for the Imperial Court. The knowhow dates to the Ming era and the Chinese name for enamel is Jingtai Lan (since enamelling came to China during the reign of Emperor Jingtai, whereupon it was merged with indigenous Chinese art styles).

Well the double escapement yields a high power reserve, currently the highest for a Chinese watch. The gold chatons are just like for Lange - beauty in technicolour. It is much more laborious to assemble.

Yes, I was referring to JLC. I've been fortunate enough to handle some very very very exquisite examples of enamelwork from JLC, but at the same time I realise you are not charging $XXX,XXX for your watches, nor making them in editions of 1.

I asked about the dual escapement because I was wondering if they beat at different frequencies, or if this was an attempt at a resonance watch (and I say 'attempt' because they are too far apart!).

The screwed gold chatons I asked about because I found it a bit interesting that a thoroughly modern watch should have a nod to a now obsolete method of affixing jewels without the force of historical momentum like Lange.

I hope you do not mind, but I would like to make a suggestion - it would be great if there were dial finishes in traditional natural lacquer, as in lacquer derived from the lacquerwood tree, not epoxy resin. As you are doubtless aware, there is a strong history of lacquerware in China and I think given this is not a single watchmaker driven operation but more a boutique watch company that would help in establishing your niche, as well as a brand identity. Other random ideas that have popped into my head include huanghuali marquetry, or MOP in wood marquetry as is commonly found in Chinese furniture. Or perhaps fine porcelain.