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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 2448  

post #36706 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by cchen View Post

What don't you like about it? I wear my 312 almost daily.

It is too big for my taste.

I have a 6.75" wrist, so it wears big.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by TradThrifter View Post
 

 

I like it, I just wish you would wear it on your wrist mate. That has to be uncomfortable.

With such a small wrist, I wear my other more manageable sized watches on my wrist, but this on my wrist as shown it does push into the back of my hand.

If I wore it on my arm, as you suggest above my wrist, it looks and feels a little funny to me.

post #36707 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post

As a counterpoint to the controversial review of Rolex's (now discontinued, I think?) calibre 3000 movement by Walt Odets, here is a rather hyperbolic article on Rolex by Wei Koh, editor-in-chief of Revolution magazine (and also of The Rake):

http://revo-online.com/inside-the-rolex-movement-manufacture-birth-of-the-beating-heart/

Clearly, Rolex do make good, reliable watches, but things become a bit outlandish at times during the article:[...]

Yes, he did get more than slightly carried away there; that type of writing makes me cringe. By the way, you'd think that someone so stoked about it would know that his watch's movement reference is 3186, not 3176.

James Dowling did a good job of describing their operation when he toured it, though.

Regarding the Odets review, I appreciate when someone has an opinion, even if I don’t agree with it. In this case, while focusing on the finishing, he manages to overlook nearly every single thing that makes a Rolex movement so well-designed. I haven't had a close look at a 3000, but the movements I've seen are well-finished. They just don't have elaborate decoration.
Edited by Belligero - 10/17/14 at 8:56am
post #36708 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaplan View Post

As for CF straps, I got one for my Mk XV:

ftWiBY0.jpg

It has a brilliant little lever thing to activate the springbar, making it a breeze to swap, but that aside I'm not 100% satisfied with this particular one; I find the middle of it too raised, at least for this watch. Stitching and the rest are great though.

That's a good looking strap. I agree it would've been nicer had it been less 'raised' in the middle.

I've seen those lever/quick change springbars you mention; too bad they're not more commonly used. OFREI sells the Bergeon 30227 Pliers to punch a little hole in any strap to allow the use of quick change springbars, but it ain't cheap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerP View Post

^^^ Love the XV. When they went away from that style of hands, I kind of lost interest in the Mark series. I have a friend with a pristine Mark XII that I have been begging him to sell me, to no avail.

Persistence is key.
post #36709 of 48312
It's been a good many years since I read the Odets article, but I as I recall, the criticism was not based on the absence of decorative finishing, but on the very crude level of finishing overall that did not seem commensurate with a watch at this price point. I do recall that he was impressed with the movement's accuracy notwithstanding its poor finish. Of course, my memory could be very faulty...

One thing that had always impressed the heck out me with Rolex is that notwithstanding their huuuuge annual production volume, their watches consistently display superb out of the box accuracy, and seem to maintain that over the long haul.
post #36710 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerP View Post

It's been a good many years since I read the Odets article, but I as I recall, the criticism was not based on the absence of decorative finishing, but on the very crude level of finishing overall that did not seem commensurate with a watch at this price point. I do recall that he was impressed with the movement's accuracy notwithstanding its poor finish. Of course, my memory could be very faulty...

One thing that had always impressed the heck out me with Rolex is that notwithstanding their huuuuge annual production volume, their watches consistently display superb out of the box accuracy, and seem to maintain that over the long haul.

Good memory; that sounds about right. Odets describes in detail the defects and what he sees as cost-cutting in that particular movement. The thing is, I have a friend who's a full-time watchmaker, and although the 3000 isn't his favourite calibre from the company — "...but it's still a Rolex movement, so it's limited how bad it can be" — he hasn't yet come across one with those flaws. I'm not sure what happened to the one in the Odets review, but the mention of damage to the variable-inertia screws on the balance wheel suggests that someone ham-fisted was playing with it before Odets got it. There's no way that there should be any marks on them, let alone gouges. There's a simple tool that lets you adjust the balance weights precisely and without damage; you don't go stabbing at them with a screwdriver blade.


image source: horologist.com

While it has some valid points, the main problem with that review is that people take one person's limited perspective on a flawed movement as being representative of Rolex's normal production, which it isn't.

Obviously, the cal. 3000 isn't going to win any beauty contests, but it's still a solid design. Its accuracy and consistency isn't simply due to luck.
post #36711 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belligero View Post

While it has some valid points, the main problem with that review is that people take one person's limited perspective on a flawed movement as being representative of Rolex's normal production, which it isn't.

 

I'm not sure that's a problem with the review, per se.  There was much over-reaction to the article on both sides.  Haters took it to mean that all Rolex movements suck mightily (which is certainly not the case), while fanboys - once they put back together their exploded heads - attacked Odets' character and integrity (which was objectionable and uncalled for) and hatched all manner of conspiracy theories (which was really funny).

post #36712 of 48312
post #36713 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkotsko View Post
 

It is too big for my taste.

I have a 6.75" wrist, so it wears big.

 

 

With such a small wrist, I wear my other more manageable sized watches on my wrist, but this on my wrist as shown it does push into the back of my hand.

If I wore it on my arm, as you suggest above my wrist, it looks and feels a little funny to me.

Back in the time I had a PAM104 and it was too big and felt like a toy :) 

 

Is Panerai just big watches or do they produce 40 mm and less?

post #36714 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweden View Post
 

Back in the time I had a PAM104 and it was too big and felt like a toy :) 

 

Is Panerai just big watches or do they produce 40 mm and less?

They used to produce a few models in 40 mm cases.  Its not a brand that I follow, so I don't know if they still do.  One of my former ADs for Rolex, VC, JLC, Piaget, Lange, BP, Breguet and Panerai...said he couldn't give the 40 mm Panerais away once "Big watches" became popular. 

post #36715 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post
 

They used to produce a few models in 40 mm cases.  Its not a brand that I follow, so I don't know if they still do.  One of my former ADs for Rolex, VC, JLC, Piaget, Lange, BP, Breguet and Panerai...said he couldn't give the 40 mm Panerais away once "Big watches" became popular. 

Haha ouch! 

 

I would gladly take a 40 mm Panerai for free :)

post #36716 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Panerai, Breitling, Longines, Nomos, TAG Heuer . . .
They had no choice if they still wanted premium movements. Although some did not start from scratch (e.g. TAG buying the right to produce and further develop a Seiko movement).
Longines is part of the Swatch group, so it still ETA. I believe only Breguets and Blancpain in the Swatch group have their subgroup of watchmakers dedicated to develop esclusive movements, basically what is left of Lemania (I am a big fan of Lemania).
post #36717 of 48312
I believe it was the Pam 048 and 049 that was 40mm.

I remember wanting it a few years back but it was still too big for my tiny wrists. I believe it was the one with a date bubble as well?
post #36718 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post


They had no choice if they still wanted premium movements. Although some did not start from scratch (e.g. TAG buying the right to produce and further develop a Seiko movement).
Longines is part of the Swatch group, so it still ETA. I believe only Breguets and Blancpain in the Swatch group have their subgroup of watchmakers dedicated to develop esclusive movements, basically what is left of Lemania (I am a big fan of Lemania).

 

Longines have some special movements just for them as a differentiator from the cheaper Swatch brands (Hamilton and Tissot) ranked just below.  I think they sit Longines and Rado together in the lower middle, with Omega and GO above, then BP and Breguet.  Or something.  Anyway, the L688 column wheel chrono is made by ETA just for Longines.  I want one.

 

Also, you missed out GO.  They do a lot in house.  In a different country.  I have some love for GO.  But yeah, I'm sure there's still a lot of common sourcing.

post #36719 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

Longines have some special movements just for them as a differentiator from the cheaper Swatch brands (Hamilton and Tissot) ranked just below.  I think they sit Longines and Rado together in the lower middle, with Omega and GO above, then BP and Breguet.  Or something.  Anyway, the L688 column wheel chrono is made by ETA just for Longines.  I want one.

Also, you missed out GO.  They do a lot in house.  In a different country.  I have some love for GO.  But yeah, I'm sure there's still a lot of common sourcing.
Yes, but the Longines "esclusive" movements are still developed and made by the same ETA developers. The Breguet/ BP movements are developed and made by a different group (what is left of Lemania).
I like many Longines watches and I also get watches based on movements
post #36720 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by RFX45 View Post

I believe it was the Pam 048 and 049 that was 40mm.

I remember wanting it a few years back but it was still too big for my tiny wrists. I believe it was the one with a date bubble as well?

Excellent memory; seconds indicator, too. I remember coming across these when I first looked into watches. Confused the hell out of me because the 40mm I saw in person (a Luminor) felt "bigger" on my wrist than a 42mm (Radiomir). Started clicking around the watch-related corners of the internet to reconcile this oddity. Been lurking this thread ever since :D 

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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...)