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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

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jeff13007

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I've been a regular lurker in this thread for quite a while and I must say the knowledge presented in many people's posts is astounding and so incredibly interesting. This is by far my most frequented thread on SF.

I do have a question for those more knowledgeable on the subject though; I'm aware VC, AP and PP are regarded as the 'Big Three', however having seen ALS' watches I'm curious why it isn't included in this grouping of prestige watch companies. Is ALS regarded as higher or lower on the totem pole than the Big Three? And on the same note, I notice that Breguet is rarely discussed in this thread. Where do they stand among these four other watch companies?


Im sure someone will correct me if this information is incorrect. But the reason why ALS and Breguet are not included in the "Big Three" is because ALS is German and Breguet was founded in Paris and was based there several hundred years so is historically a "French Brand". VC, PP, and AP are all historically swiss. ALS and Breguet imo are just as good as the big three, all five brands are regarded as the highest tier of watches and some watch enthusiasts informally group then all together as the "big five".
 
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jeff13007

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Welcome to the thread.  Don't get too hung up on the phrase "The Big Three."  There are several really great watches from other brands, in particular AL&S.

I agree largely with what Stitchy has said, and in addition to AL&S being shut down for many years, I was always under the impression that the Big Three was a term coined to describe the top SWISS brands.  There were lots of watch companies and small watch makers all over Switzerland in the late 1800s and early 1900s, and the quality of the watches, technical innovations, and maybe on some level history of producing top products, led to the belief that the the 3 Swiss Companies producing the very best watches back in the early 20th Century were PP, AP, and VC. 

I think Breguet makes some very nice watches, but at times their quality and innovations have been a bit lacking compared to PP, AP and VC.  AL&S by many might be considerd a notch above Patek, AP, and VC in terms if finish and quality...but they are German not Swiss, and there were long periods in the 20th century when they were not competitive with the so called Big Three. 


+1, am absolutely in love with the Lange 1 and 1815
 

Dino944

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Im sure someone will correct me if this information is incorrect. But the reason why ALS and Breguet are not included in the "Big Three" is because ALS is German and Breguet was founded in Paris and was based there several hundred years so is historically a "French Brand". VC, PP, and AP are all historically swiss. ALS and Breguet imo are just as good as the big three, all five brands are regarded as the highest tier of watches and some watch enthusiasts informally group then all together as the "big five".

+1, am absolutely in love with the Lange 1 and 1815

Jeff, I think you and I largely had the same answer, that the Big Three refers to the top Swiss brands in the early 20th Century, hence Lange is not or would not be considered one of the Big Three. As for Breguet, they make nice watches, but I think at times their quality has not been up to the standards of PP, AP, and VC.

I've never heard anyone use the terms "Big Five." However, at this point in time, the quality levels and tollerances used in materials, finishing, and overall product are so high, that many of the top brands are on par in quality today so there really are more than just 3 top brands.
 

jeff13007

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Jeff, I think you and I largely had the same answer, that the Big Three refers to the top Swiss brands in the early 20th Century, hence Lange is not or would not be considered one of the Big Three.  As for Breguet, they make nice watches, but I think at times their quality has not been up to the standards of PP, AP, and VC. 

I've never heard anyone use the terms "Big Five."  However, at this point in time, the quality levels and tollerances used in materials, finishing, and overall product are so high, that many of the top brands are on par in quality today so there really are more than just 3 top brands.


Yup yup, but remember that Breguet was also "French" until sometime in the 20th Century and during the 19th they were considered the best in the world.

Edit: just looked it up. it was only in 1976 that Breguet moved to switzerland and this was after the term "big three" was coined if I'm not mistaken
 
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Dino944

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Yes, 1976 is a long time after the term "Big Three" was coined.

Lots of companies make great watches, but the phrase "Big Three" only refers to three specific brands.
 

ethanm

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I wore my Explorer II the entire time I was deployed and only suffered a small scratch on the case.

I scratched the crystal today on a table corner.

ffffuuuu.gif
ffffuuuu.gif
ffffuuuu.gif
 

in stitches

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:censored:
 

ethanm

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Do you ever have to work with RSC, Stitch? I was reading that they insist on a full service with crystal replacements and I'm not trying to spend 600+ just for a crystal.
 

Hayward

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no frills

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Dino944

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Do you ever have to work with RSC, Stitch? I was reading that they insist on a full service with crystal replacements and I'm not trying to spend 600+ just for a crystal.
How new is the watch? No one likes to buy services they don't need. However, it may be that as a result of how far they have to take the watch apart to get the crystal off, and if the movement has been removed and, certain seals get compromised/damaged in the process and have to be replaced, possibly it makes sense to do it as long as they have it apart, provided its a few years old. I've had daily wearer Rolexes serviced at RSC but never had to replace the crystal.
 

suaviter

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What about a Stowa or Nomos? My Stowa was around 800 I think.

It gets more wrist time than my Sub LV

2A924C0C-9C53-4E27-AC95-E98D5D1B6F2D-2061-0000019E77164451_zps0e47bc6d.jpg

What model is this? That looks great and I've been looking for something simple/dressy/reasonably priced and this looks like a winner.
 

in stitches

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Do you ever have to work with RSC, Stitch? I was reading that they insist on a full service with crystal replacements and I'm not trying to spend 600+ just for a crystal.


i have never, actually. i have mixed feelings on the whole thing. i know there are ways to get repairs done well and fard cheaper, and it is just a crystal, but then i wonder if if something went wrong, id be pissed for not shelling out to do it the best way. im torn. :(

good luck.

Hah hah I am still reading the awesome reviews and laughing all the way! :)


he-larry-ous. amazing.
 

ant702

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+1 great choice on the Ingy 3227-01...I'm looking forward to seeing the newest iteration of the Igenieur whenever it reaches a local AD.

Great snaps of your VC, Dino. That caseback very much resembles a Reverso movement, although I couldn't tell you which one.
And this is my only barrel-shape, although I think of it more as a casual watch than a true dress piece, despite wearing it with suits quite a bit.. (apologies if I've posted this pic before).

It doesn't compare horologically to a Patek, but it's one of my favorite designs, and now my only Cartier after trading in my Tank Francaise:

I liked this watch, but didnt like the metal bracelet or the crown! I always wore the black change-out strap! That crown looks great,but hard to grasp! Did you have some of the same qualms?
 
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