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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 2299  

post #34471 of 48312

Hi CLPotter,

 

Personally, I've never thought the Yachtmaster was dressier than a Sub, although I believe as Mimo stated, I think its flashier. IMHO once you are dealing with something that has a rotating divers bezel, its definitely a sports watch.  In addition, while I think the steel version with blue dial is handsome, I've never really understood the Yachtmaster's purpose.  The Sub is clearly a divers watch, a GMT is a pilots watch or travelers watch, the Daytona a watch for race car drivers etc.  The Yachtmaster has never struck me as a true purpose built tool watch.  

 

I wouldn't have any problem pairing a Sub with a suit.  I would probably opt to wear a true dress watch for very dressy occasions, but I have seen attorneys, judges, and other business men etc wear Subs with suits in the past and it looks fine.  Depending on your work environment and style of dress, a Sub can be a very good daily wearer.  Good luck with whatever you choose.    

post #34472 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

Hi CLPotter,

Personally, I've never thought the Yachtmaster was dressier than a Sub, although I believe as Mimo stated, I think its flashier. IMHO once you are dealing with something that has a rotating divers bezel, its definitely a sports watch.  In addition, while I think the steel version with blue dial is handsome, I've never really understood the Yachtmaster's purpose.  The Sub is clearly a divers watch, a GMT is a pilots watch or travelers watch, the Daytona a watch for race car drivers etc.  The Yachtmaster has never struck me as a true purpose built tool watch.  

I wouldn't have any problem pairing a Sub with a suit.  I would probably opt to wear a true dress watch for very dressy occasions, but I have seen attorneys, judges, and other business men etc wear Subs with suits in the past and it looks fine.  Depending on your work environment and style of dress, a Sub can be a very good daily wearer.  Good luck with whatever you choose.    

Thanks, Dino. Never gave much thought to the "purpose" of a YM, although, it is interesting to think about.
post #34473 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkotsko View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by no frills View Post


Gotta go with what you want and what works for you:

  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
gynyje7u.jpg

 

Gasp

Are you sure those VC&A cufflinks are ok to wear with that green monster?

You don't want them to be outclassed by the watch...

 

Kidding of course. Looking killer as always Frilly.


Hahah thanks bkotsko.

Just as with many things style-related, I think one has to "follow" (or at least demonstrate some knowledge and appreciation) of "classical rules" before tweaking (breaking?) them. So, for the Sub + suit question while it is technically verboten there are plenty of modern occasions IMHO when one can execute it reasonably well:

ty9a7aga.jpg

I would personally draw the line with tuxedos and formal evening events though. For those occasions I wouldn't wear a dive watch.
post #34474 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by no frills View Post

Hahah thanks bkotsko.

Just as with many things style-related, I think one has to "follow" (or at least demonstrate some knowledge and appreciation) of "classical rules" before tweaking (breaking?) them. So, for the Sub + suit question while it is technically verboten there are plenty of modern occasions IMHO when one can execute it reasonably well:

ty9a7aga.jpg

I would personally draw the line with tuxedos and formal evening events though. For those occasions I wouldn't wear a dive watch.

Frills,

I'm digging that Sub. Do you mind if I ask the year/serial number so I can look into that model a bit?
post #34475 of 48312
114060, it is about half a year old.
post #34476 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

I generally do not like Subs with suits, but I would not go so far as to make a rule out of it. This goes for watches and sandwiches.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by clpotter View Post


Thanks, Dino. Never gave much thought to the "purpose" of a YM, although, it is interesting to think about.

 

 

I think the Sub goes with a suit so long as it's one of the previous editions with the slimmer case, and you put it on a strap rather than bracelet. Then again, I'm dovetailing my taste to my personal habits and circumstances with that one.

 

The YM pro is definitely a technical watch, albeit one for a very rarified niche. The standard YM is basically a pimped out take on a Diver for folks who want it. In some ways, the case curves of the YM are more interesting than those on the Sub, as is the Microgramma font on the bezel. It would be interesting to see what a YM would look like in steel with a black dial and a black bezel insert.

post #34477 of 48312
(Sorry in advance for the newbie question).

So, I recently tried on some IWC pilot watches, and while nice, they all seemed really thick to me. Unfortunately, when I was trying them on, I wasn't wearing a long sleeved shirt, so I wasn't able to tell if the watch would fit under a cuff. I don't plan to wear a pilot watch with anything dressy, but they might go under a casual jacket or shirt, and the thickness concerns me. (For reference, it was the IWC Little Prince, ref IW326506).

Are all pilot watches more or less as thick as IWCs? The sales associate at the store said yes, but I've learned to be careful with SA opinions. I'm also hoping to get a vintage pilot watch, if that makes a difference. Don't know if vintage pieces tend to be thinner than modern ones.

TIA for any opinions folks can share.
post #34478 of 48312

I think that's a pretty modestly sized pilot; they're kind of big by definition, and IWC's in particular.  There are smaller older models - the Spitfire and Mark XII, smaller overall and a touch thinner (39mmx10mm).  But 11mm thick seems pretty standard.

 

If you're not wedded to IWC, you could go a lot cheaper, still have the history, and a little smaller with it too: Stowa's Flieger is 40mm x 10mm, and Sinn's 556 39mm x 10mm or thereabouts.  There are quite a few Sinns that size.

post #34479 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


So, I recently tried on some IWC pilot watches, and while nice, they all seemed really thick to me. Unfortunately, when I was trying them on, I wasn't wearing a long sleeved shirt, so I wasn't able to tell if the watch would fit under a cuff. I don't plan to wear a pilot watch with anything dressy, but they might go under a casual jacket or shirt, and the thickness concerns me. (For reference, it was the IWC Little Prince, ref IW326506).

I've got a IWC 3777, 15mm case thickness (and a little thicker with a NATO strap). Great watch, very happy with it (though I will say it's quite susceptible to dinks, but that's a separate issue and unclear whether it's the IWC case metal or just any watch being used day to day).

It's obviously thicker than a dress watch, but (1) if you wear MTM shirts, no problems - just get the cuff made a bit looser, (2) for OTR shirts, it's not so big that the cuff issue can't be frequently addressed by re-sewing the cuff button for a bit more space - should be fine esp if you know how to sew a button (I have MTM shirts so all good), and (3) IMO, looks good with both work and casual clothes - good sized watch. See below pic.

It's my daily watch for work and casual, no problems with it.

post #34480 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by no frills View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
ty9a7aga.jpg

Love the Calatrava links.
post #34481 of 48312
The Mark XII was 36mm, the Mark XV (recently featured ITT) was 38mm, and while not particularly flat I've never had an issue with mine fitting under a shirt cuff. The Mark XVI was 39mm and the Mark XVII is 41mm. The height of these is pretty similar, going from 10.4 to 11mm.
post #34482 of 48312

I've mentioned this before but I wore my GMT with a tuxedo on my wedding as it was a gift from my wife.  If any of you have a problem, tell your partner you can't wear their gift because it wouldn't work with the outfit and see how that goes.  I have heard that you shouldn't wear a watch to a wedding as time shouldn't matter at those events.

post #34483 of 48312

@jbarwick, you are unquestionably a barbarian.  And you are also right, of course. 

post #34484 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebayhtl View Post

It's obviously thicker than a dress watch, but (1) if you wear MTM shirts, no problems - just get the cuff made a bit looser, (2) for OTR shirts, it's not so big that the cuff issue can't be frequently addressed by re-sewing the cuff button for a bit more space - should be fine esp if you know how to sew a button (I have MTM shirts so all good), and (3) IMO, looks good with both work and casual clothes - good sized watch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaplan View Post

The Mark XII was 36mm, the Mark XV (recently featured ITT) was 38mm, and while not particularly flat I've never had an issue with mine fitting under a shirt cuff. The Mark XVI was 39mm and the Mark XVII is 41mm. The height of these is pretty similar, going from 10.4 to 11mm.

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I'm less concerned about the width of the face, and more about the height. Are all pilot watches about this thickness (roughly 10.5mm to 11mm)? Even vintage ones?

For shirts, adjusting the cuff is no problem, but I'm afraid that opening the cuff up means that it'll be too loose when I'm not wearing a watch this thick. Am I overthinking it?
post #34485 of 48312
I think the only way to get thinner would be manual wind. 11mm is about standard for a sports automatic.
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