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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 2208  

post #33106 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by 518aata View Post


I bought a gold and stainless Datejust in Paris in 1983. All of the middle links were gold, except the two that joined the band to the watch, which were stainless. When I asked the AD why that was, he told me that, while DJs sold in other countries were made of 14kt, the ones sold in France were required (by law!) to be 18kt. So that the French Rolex dealers would not be at a price disadvantage to their competitors in other countries, they saved money by using two stainless links.

I have no idea whether this was true, but I thought it looked odd. So, about a year later, I ordered two 18kt links and had the two stainless ones replaced. I don't remember the exact figures after these many years, but I do recall that the cost of the two links was about 1/4 the price of the watch!

Sorry, never heard of that, nor have I seen it in any Rolex reference books.  I've also never seen a tutone Rolex from the late 70s or 80s that had 2 links in steel rather than gold.  In addition, I'm  not sure how making 2 links in steel would be much savings.  The gold links on all tutone watches in the 1980s were hollow, so there really wasn't that much gold being used for 2 links.  

 

Back in the early 1980s, a tutone Sub or GMT was about $2500 and in steel about $1,350.  That was before a discount and back then you could get discounts of 25% on all steel watches.  Tutones you could easily get for about 30% off, even in the early 1990s.  

 

Your story is entertaining, but I'm just not sure how true or accurate it really is.  Still entertaining.  :cheers:  

post #33107 of 48312
I majored in material science and engineering... not that I have any idea about how to solve your challenge frills.
post #33108 of 48312

So, what would the melt value of a gold Rolex (+bracelet) be these days? platinum?

post #33109 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by qubed View Post

So, what would the melt value of a gold Rolex (+bracelet) be these days? platinum?
With over 150 g of pure Au in an 18K DD II, it would be about seven kilobuxx, and the beastly platinum model contains almost 250 g of pure Pt so the raw metal value would be over thirteen grand at today's price of $1466/oz.
post #33110 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belligero View Post


With over 150 g of pure Au in an 18K DD II, it would be about seven kilobuxx, and the beastly platinum model contains almost 250 g of pure Pt so the raw metal value would be over thirteen grand at today's price of $1466/oz.

So discounting the actual value of gold, that's a ~20k premium for the new GMT. ouch. 

post #33111 of 48312

And double that for the Playtona.  My word.  But I guess the key word is "differentiation".  And the weight of them - wow!  You'd certainly know you were wearing it.  I kind of like the sound of that - feeling what others can't see.

post #33112 of 48312
I'm not saying that their premium is proportionate to the input costs, but don't forget that gold and especially platinum are very expensive materials to work with, all things considered. The logistics are much different than cheap materials where the swarf can be scrapped, like stainless steel or titanium. The security measures aren't exactly free, either. Also, platinum is a true bitch to machine; it takes Rolex three times as long to fabricate in that material compared to 18K.

If you're just considering raw material costs, then they're a raging bargain compared to what some strap watches go for. I absolutely love the Datograph, for example, but with its display back saving further metal, I'd be surprised if the amount of raw platinum used is even 25% of what's in the similarly-priced 116506.

But then again, you don't exactly buy a precious-metal watch because you're trying to save money.
post #33113 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belligero View Post

I'm not saying that their premium is proportionate to the input costs, but don't forget that gold and especially platinum are very expensive materials to work with, all things considered. The logistics are much different than cheap materials where the swarf can be scrapped, like stainless steel or titanium. The security measures aren't exactly free, either. Also, platinum is a true bitch to machine; it takes Rolex three times as long to fabricate in that material compared to 18K.

If you're just considering raw material costs, then they're a raging bargain compared to what some strap watches go for. I absolutely love the Datograph, for example, but with its display back saving further metal, I'd be surprised if the amount of raw platinum used is even 25% of what's in the similarly-priced 116506.

But then again, you don't exactly buy a precious-metal watch because you're trying to save money.

From a machining standpoint, the precious metals are MUCH easier to machine.

Au<Pt<SS<Ti

I know there are different handling requirements, but from a machining and finishing standpoint, I would much rather work with the precious metals.

edit: The Pt and SS may be close, but are both difficult for different reasons.

post #33114 of 48312

deleted

post #33115 of 48312
Regrets, I should have included "finishing" in that statement. That's what accounts for most of the extra production time with Pt once the basic machining is complete.
post #33116 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

Sorry, never heard of that, nor have I seen it in any Rolex reference books.  I've also never seen a tutone Rolex from the late 70s or 80s that had 2 links in steel rather than gold.  In addition, I'm  not sure how making 2 links in steel would be much savings.  The gold links on all tutone watches in the 1980s were hollow, so there really wasn't that much gold being used for 2 links.  

Back in the early 1980s, a tutone Sub or GMT was about $2500 and in steel about $1,350.  That was before a discount and back then you could get discounts of 25% on all steel watches.  Tutones you could easily get for about 30% off, even in the early 1990s.  

Your story is entertaining, but I'm just not sure how true or accurate it really is.  Still entertaining.  cheers.gif  

I recall paying about $1600 for the two-tone DJ. I don't remember how much less that was than the US price, but it was enough to get me to buy it in Paris.

As I said, I don't know whether what the dealer told me was BS, but that's what he said. You may choose to believe it or not, as you wish.

For what it's worth, a quick search came up with this discussion on the NAWCC board about Rolex's selling 14k and 18k in different countries at the same time: http://mb.nawcc.org/showthread.php?71035-Rolex-Datjust-14-or-18K-gold. There's nothing about the mysterious stainless link issue. . . .
post #33117 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by NonServiam View Post

...

Hey NS:

Thank you very much for the write up! I really appreciate it, it was great seeing all those pictures.

I particularly liked seeing more pictures of the VC Traditionelle SS in Platinum. What a gorgeous watch! The rose gold variant is definitely still on my radar. Any comments about the weight of the platinum iteration?

I would love to see the PP museum some day. I am sure it is pretty unbelievable.

Again, thanks for taking the time to write all of this up.
post #33118 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by 518aata View Post


I recall paying about $1600 for the two-tone DJ. I don't remember how much less that was than the US price, but it was enough to get me to buy it in Paris.

As I said, I don't know whether what the dealer told me was BS, but that's what he said. You may choose to believe it or not, as you wish.

For what it's worth, a quick search came up with this discussion on the NAWCC board about Rolex's selling 14k and 18k in different countries at the same time: http://mb.nawcc.org/showthread.php?71035-Rolex-Datjust-14-or-18K-gold. There's nothing about the mysterious stainless link issue. . . .

Well, if you got it in steel and 18 kt vs steel and 14kt, then even if it was the same price you got a good deal as your watch has a higher gold content.  

 

I have heard lots of salesmen's sales talks, sometimes it is true sometimes it is BS.  Its an entertaining story.  Whether its true or not makes little difference to me, but again it was entertaining.

 

I thought you meant actual links in the bracelet itself were steel, which I had not seen.  I did not realize you were speaking of the little attachment piece between the bracelet and the clasp...that I have seen in SS on tutone bracelets of the past.  

post #33119 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

I did not realize you were speaking of the little attachment piece between the bracelet and the clasp.

I think he meant the end links:
Quote:
Originally Posted by 518aata View Post

except the two that joined the band to the watch, which were stainless
post #33120 of 48312


my new Omega Z-33 Spacemaster icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
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