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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 2154  

post #32296 of 48312
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post
 

You are missing 2.  Nautilus, 5040J, 3940J, 3940P, 3970J, 3970P.

 

 

Never forget that Frilly has to have his watches in pairs - because part of his justification is that they are an investment for his two  daughters to inherit!  So I never doubted for a moment that he would have to complete the DSSD with the SD4000, of course having bought the ND and green Subs, and already had the Daytona and the Explorer.  All twosies, see?!

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkotsko View Post
 

Well gents, today is a Black Bay day for me.

Enjoy the sunshine.
 

 

I love that cordovan strap.  Considering the "worn look" strap on the Black Bay is such a part of its style, changing it out straight off was pretty bold - and successful.  Beautiful.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

My goodness, I do not think that there is any three-hander that is more spectacular than a Ferrier. 

Speaking of breathtaking movements... I know that people around these parts are not the biggest fans of Montblanc... but I thought this was stunning.





But enough about all this technical stuff... shouldn't we be talking about how to get women pussy ass?

sarcasm.gif

 

Galet micro rotor...drool...yes, I'd love to see the LF product in person.

 

But I can't agree on the Montblanc, and not just because of the name.  To be fair, the movement looks interesting and the case is interesting, but there are three things bothering me immediately: first is the proportions on the dial - sure, it's supposed to be unusual, but all that space top and bottom makes the writing feel like it's inserted as padding.  And once you see those subdials as eyeballs, it develops an imbecilic smile that is impossible to un-see.

 

Second is how clumsy and heavy all the print seems to be: I get that there's a bit of a retro pocket watch/ clock face thing going on, but all those heavy black lines make it look cheap.  Worse, those red numbers at the four points are a great idea when they're an almost imperceptible additional of colour to warm up a monotone dial.  But here, they're just big red numbers.  Below, an example of a large gold watch with an unusual dial layout working more subtly:

 

 

Or a cheaper example - also copied in another Montblanc model, but less well:

 

 

And here's what I mean about the red numbers: this watch would be a little cold in platinum, with just simple black markings on a white dial.  But the addition of a subtle blued second hand and those red numbers at each compass point you would hardly notice - only that the dial seems to be warmer somehow.  This is called design subtlety - Montblanc, take note!

 

 

And thirdly: it seems to me that what Montblanc are lacking is a house style.  I was just looking at their website, and they have dozens of models already.  But they resemble cheap knock-offs of everything from Lange to Omega to Chronoswiss - not to mention of course their ill-balanced Patek-a-like calendars. It's a pity, because whatever their status or not in TWATland, they are a strong brand with a clear and simple design identity, and have the resources to design and promote a distinctive style ethic of their own.  Maybe it will be empty space on the dial, heavy lines, and writing in fonts that will probably annoy @Belligero, and if it is then so be it - at least it will be theirs.  But for now I just see a mish-mash of ideas, based hurriedly on not just somebody else's, but everybody else's.

post #32297 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post


And thirdly: it seems to me that what Montblanc are lacking is a house style.  I was just looking at their website, and they have dozens of models already.  But they resemble cheap knock-offs of everything from Lange to Omega to Chronoswiss - not to mention of course their ill-balanced Patek-a-like calendars. It's a pity, because whatever their status or not in TWATland, they are a strong brand with a clear and simple design identity, and have the resources to design and promote a distinctive style ethic of their own.  Maybe it will be empty space on the dial, heavy lines, and writing in fonts that will probably annoy @Belligero
, and if it is then so be it - at least it will be theirs.  But for now I just see a mish-mash of ideas, based hurriedly on not just somebody else's, but everybody else's.

As always Mimo, I appreciate the well-thought out response. Always fun to discuss things with you. As a preliminary note--yes, the Montblanc does have a face. But I have to say... after you mentioned that, the Duometre has an even larger face. Not as bad as the winking robot Geographic (which I kind of like in a quirky way), but nonetheless, JLC loves them some smiley faces.

So, let me continue. I agree, the face of the watch is not my favorite. I mean, it is interesting, but it is not really my style. I am a sucker for enamel, but I get the feeling they are trying way, way, way to hard. And you are correct--the touches of red really do it no favors, whatsoever.

However, that Minerva movement (right on, Keith--aside, I am with you on the legibility concerns... especially considering it is a 44mm watch it should be a bit more clear) is to die for. The finishing coming out of the Minerva facilities is way, way, way up there. And I just love the architecture of the movements. It is so incredibly whimsical looking. I feel like the one aspect of continuity they have is with their Villeret movements. They have that old-school, pocket-watch charm.

But onto you third, final, and most poignant observation--Montblanc really is a massive cluster-F when it comes to coherent design. Boy are you ever bang on. I mean they have their Heritage line... their Star line... their Villeret line... their Nicolas Rieussec line... JEEZ. And they ALL look different from one another. Hopefully Jerome Lambert will tighten that up. With that said, I was not entirely pleased about their releases this year (the heritage line), seems like Jerome is just taking a play out of JLC's handbook. It looks like they are borrowingly extensively from everyone, intent on cashing out now instead of developing their own brand identity, as you noted. It is indeed a pity. This one cracked me up the most:




Or, another great example:




Really guys?

And also disturbing, at least to me... Montblanc took an inordinately small time to get "geared up." Sometimes it makes me wonder how challenging the engineering behind these things really is.
post #32298 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post


Sometimes it makes me wonder how challenging the engineering behind these things really is.

 

Shhhhh!

post #32299 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith T View Post

It's definitely not a Nautilus, and I really don't think it's trying to be, although there's no denying the case shape and bezel are quite similar.

But I think on a rubber strap, the way it echoes the dial' s texture....as a luxury sports watch... it has its own swag, if you'll pardon the expression. The photo that Steel28 posted above looks pretty sharp to me, for example.

 

The first series of Aquanauts, like the one Frills posted a picture of was derived from Patek's first attempt at a Nautilus on a strap back in the early 1990s.  Same basic case, lugs, and bezel, however it had a flat black dial (no texture), roman numerals, and leaf hands.  I believe it was only offered in 18kt gold,and it was not a very successful model for them. Its in an old Patek catalog I have at home, I can check the ref number later if interested.  The current Aquanaut the case/bezel became a bit more oval in shape and its sort of moved a bit further from merely being a Nautilus derivative, but for me its just not quite as harmonious.  In addition, I don't care for its rubber strap, or the current bracelet.  I like the original bracelet more.  For some reason when I tried it on the current bracelet it looked like a bracelet from a Breguet Type XX, but for some reason its inner clasp reminded me of the old bracelet of the TAG SEL watches of the 90s.  

 

Obviously, no watch can be everything to everyone.  Its a high quality watch, but I still greatly prefer its Nautilus sibling.  

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steel28 View Post


Nice! I have a great AD that I bought a few pieces over the years in another city and should be able to get at least 10-15% plus taxes.

I think depending on your dealer that should be very possible.  I know that within the last year my Dad's local Patek AD offered him a significant discount on an Aquanaut. However, he was a very established customer with them having purchased approximately 5 Pateks and 7 Rolexes (that I recall) plus other items.  Wishing you lots of luck!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

 

But I can't agree on the Montblanc, and not just because of the name.  To be fair, the movement looks interesting and the case is interesting, but there are three things bothering me immediately: first is the proportions on the dial - sure, it's supposed to be unusual, but all that space top and bottom makes the writing feel like it's inserted as padding.  And once you see those subdials as eyeballs, it develops an imbecilic smile that is impossible to un-see.

 

And thirdly: it seems to me that what Montblanc are lacking is a house style.  I was just looking at their website, and they have dozens of models already.  But they resemble cheap knock-offs of everything from Lange to Omega to Chronoswiss - not to mention of course their ill-balanced Patek-a-like calendars.

I Agree 100%.  I found the dial very unappealing and goofy looking.  Once you pointed out the smile, it looked even worse.  I also do not like all the empty space on the dial.  

 

I will say they have come a long way, their initial offerings just seemed to be overpriced, blingy, junk.  However, much as you have mentioned, they have yet to develop their own style and largely borrow from others.  I would have thought that they have enough brand history from their many decades in the pen business, which could be used to develop their own distinctive watch style.  

 

Personally, and maybe it makes me a brand whore, but I just don't have a real interest in buying watches from a pen maker, anymore than I am interested in buying watches from suit makers such as Zenga or RL.  I know many people have little interest in brand history, brand originality, and brand innovations, but those things do matter to me in addition to a brand's quality and signature design elements.  Maybe Heinz ketchup could hire engineers from AP, Patek, VC, Lange, and Rolex to make a great watch...but I just don't think the Heinz  "57 Royal Cala-Patri-Dato-tona" would be of any interest to me.   

post #32300 of 48312
New Sea Dweller looks really nice. I don't know about $10,400 ish pre-tax nice, but nice.
post #32301 of 48312

The Montblanc Meisterstuck Heritage Pulsograph, introduced via SIHH 2014:

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90

 

The ref 5170 in yellow gold from Patek, introduced in 2010 (but itself the modern descendant of a long line of chronographs):

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90

 

I know what I'd choose...

post #32302 of 48312
Knew there was something, then Mimo mentioned the eyes...
can't unsee (Click to show)

]
post #32303 of 48312
OMG, at some point the imitation goes well beyond flattery.

Personally I'm waiting for the release of their SS chronograph (3 subdials), a bezel with tachymetric scale, and a Zenith movement.....The Montblanc Talledega.

It will obviously come with the Mollusc case and bracelet.
post #32304 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post


Reminds me somewhat of the weighing scales they used to have in public places:


http://www.featurepics.com/FI/Thumb300/20090502/Red-Weighing-Scale-1169381.jpg
post #32305 of 48312

The Tudor Black Bay is becoming sort of a grail for me. Such watch, much bezel

post #32306 of 48312
I love the Black Bay on the cordovan. A very handsome combination!
post #32307 of 48312
Come on guys, it's bash Montblanc day.

Don't be changing the subject.
post #32308 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith T View Post

Come on guys, it's bash Montblanc day.

Don't be changing the subject.

Ha, seriously, a guy tries to say one nice thing about the company smile.gif.

I agree with almost all that has been said though. Poor Montblanc!
post #32309 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post
 

 

I love that cordovan strap.  Considering the "worn look" strap on the Black Bay is such a part of its style, changing it out straight off was pretty bold - and successful.  Beautiful.

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

I love the Black Bay on the cordovan. A very handsome combination!

 

Thanks, Gents.

I didn't like the quality of the distressed leather on the strap it came on.

The deployant clasp is very nice, but the leather seemed cheap, and the finish looked sprayed on.

I wasn't expecting it to be the quality of that on a PP or Lange, but it seemed sub par.

I almost felt obligated to change it immediately.

 

Anyway, back to your regularly scheduled programming.

post #32310 of 48312

That strap put the Black Bay in a new light. It look like it was made for it, as opposed to the odd choice it comes with.

 

About Montblanc: they were able to develop a design language for their writing tools that sells well, but they are dated today. I wonder what made them go into watches. Are they made in Switzerland or Germany? I heard the former, which s also odd as it's a German company and there are great watches coming out of Germany. Everything about this move into watches feels consultant driven. 

 

I'm also a bit frustrated that there are so many new watch companies that are producing dated designs. Onion crowns, Roman indices, bleh. A new manufacture should offer something...new. 

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