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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 1926  

post #28876 of 48312
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Originally Posted by Axelman 17 View Post

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Re cushion cases, TWAT member Belligero has a nice cushion from GP. Sorry for the messy link but it is here:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/36253/the-watch-appreciation-thread/21390#post_6380434
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

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I think that's the "European" to whom Dino was referring above.  Although I believe he's actually Canadian.  Same same.
I was wondering where he was, too.
Or as the old men say where I come from "I was wondering where he was to".
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Originally Posted by Kaplan View Post

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Belligero's from Norway :-)
Thanks Axel, that GP does look nice.
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Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

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That's a good idea, and a great watch.  I'm still in contact with him, he's been rather busy.
Actually, it wasn't me that referenced our old friend Belligero.  Yes, he is actually Canadian, but he lives in Norway. 
Perfect timing, fellas; I went into a long hibernation from the watch thing, but started checking out TWAT again recently.

I guess my taste in watches is a bit boring; I’m satisfied with what I have, and getting more doesn’t interest me. Only a few get worn regularly, anyway. That might sound a bit negative, but it’s a positive feeling.

It's good to find something that suits and stick with it. It’s also good to see that the ones around here actually get used. Watches are for wearing.

"Hooray for everything!" to all, and to all a nice strap.
post #28877 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foley View Post

Hi everyone. I am new to the forum and posted yesterday for some advice about a watch purchase. The admins apparently delayed the post to make sure I am a 'real person'. Then it magically appeared back when I posted it but by that time the thread had moved on - so I suspect most people missed it. In brief, I am looking to purchase a rose gold watch with a budget of $30K. I have some ideas and would like feedback. Please refer to page 1923 for details. I have been lurking for quite some time and have come to appreciate the opinions here. Thanks much.

Hey Foley,

First of all, welcome back! I glad your question got necro-bumped.

For me, there is a clear, clear winner in this grouping--the Lange.

I am on Stitchy's side of things in regards to the GO PML. I actually really like the design of the PML, despite its tendency to be a bit... slab sided. I will likely pick one up eventually. However, I do not know how I feel about it in rose gold. At least for me, in the $30,000 price range I am going to be looking at Patek, Lange, VC, Breguet, etc. Mainly, however, Lange and VC. I think that Patek's "base" watches are underwhelming, save for the Nautilus (I actually really like the 5227, but that is espensivo). I would get the PML in Stainless, because I think it is a whole lot of watch for a small price. But in rose gold... jeez, you are getting so close to Lange territory, that I would not bother.

The Lange aub/auf is one of the most beautiful watches that the company makes, and it is just so quintessentially Lange. And nothing feels the same as strapping one on your wrist. They are weighted very nicely, and are beautifully made.

The JLC is a great watch, but again, I do not know how I feel about that "range" of JLCs. I like JLC's Duometre range, and I like their SS models. Their in between model does not really interest me.

The VC 1921 is a great watch. And I would suggest looking into a few more VC models. They make some great watches in the area that you are playing around in.

Picture of a super pretty JLC for funsies:

post #28878 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foley View Post
 
Hello everyone.
 
I have been lurking for quite a while and enjoying this thread immensely, so I figured it was time to contribute.  This is my collection thus far.

 
 
I will be receiving a promotion at work this September, which is somewhat of a landmark event.  So I would like to commemorate with a new watch in pink/rose gold.  I want this to be a ‘special’, long-term watch.  I have developed a list of possibilities and would like feedback. 
 
 
Glashutte Original PanoMaticLunar (Retail $22,800)  This is the current front-runner.  I tried it on with the Louisiana alligator nubuck leather strap, which was SWEET.  It is a bit thicker than I expected, but I love the unique dial design and the decorations of the mechanism.  Yes I know it could be considered a knockoff of the Lange 1 Moon Phase but that does not bother me, as the latter is above my price range.

 

Parmigiani Tonda 1950 (Retail $20,200).  It is very thin and the platinum mini rotor is a nice feature – permits a better view of the movement than most automatic watches.  It looked great on my wrist.  But do the lumed hands make it schizophrenic?  This is a lesser known maker but perhaps results in less of a premium for the name.
 
Lange Up-Down (Retail $27,400).  I have not had a chance to try it on yet but I expect to be smitten. I miss the lack of a date on my Daytona and might miss it on this as well (same for the Parmigiani above).
 
Patek 5296R sector dial (Retail $29K).  I have not seen this discussed much on the boards and have not tried it on yet but strikes me as more versatile than most of the Calatravas, and perhaps the most versatile watch on this list.

 

 
JLC MUT Perpetual (Retail $31,600 but I expect I could get a discount to below $30K).  Not tried on yet.  I am attracted to the idea of having a perpetual calendar within my price range.  Maybe this represents the best value?  But of course the better ‘value’ would be the SS version…
 

 

Thanks for reading and I look forward to the feedback.

Foley Congrats on the promotion.  A rose gold watch is a great way to celebrate.  As for your choices, I agree largely with Apropos.  While GO makes a quality item, I would never choose anything from the PANO line.  It will always be the less attractive half sister of the Lange 1.  Sorry it just is.  If a watch is out of my price range, I can happily admire it at a distance and choose something else.  I would never choose that looks so close to being a knock off, even if its within my budget.  Furthermore, unless I was getting a really deep discount I wouldn't purchase a GO.  I think in that price range it will take a serious nose dive in value.   

 

Parmigiani is fine, but its design does nothing for me.  A friend's Dad had one and I just thought it seemed sort of insignificant.  Not bad, but nothing impressive. 

 

The Lange, is top quality and something I would give very serious thought to if you can live without a date.  I would also as someone else suggested look into a Richard Lange and see what kind of deal you could get.

 

The Patek, is great quality, but I'd rather have a more classic dial.  I find this dial rather busy and I wonder if I would tire of it.  This dial seems almost too sporty for a Calatrava.  That, and I do have a tough time swallowing the price on a basic time only Calatrava...but maybe that's just me.

 

I do like the JLC, its a tremendous value.  Its something I would consider if I found the right deal.  I think it would be both a better value and more likely to hold its value better in steel...although (resale value might not matter, if this is a long term ownership item to celebrate a milestone such as your promotion).  

 

I love the VC 1921 American that a few people proposed.  However, with an MSRP of around $40,000 I am not sure you could find a discount to keep it within your budget of $30K or less.  

 

Wishing you luck with whatever you decide.

post #28879 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

I am on Stitchy's side of things in regards to the GO PML. I actually really like the design of the PML, despite its tendency to be a bit... slab sided. I will likely pick one up eventually. However, I do not know how I feel about it in rose gold. At least for me, in the $30,000 price range I am going to be looking at Patek, Lange, VC, Breguet, etc. Mainly, however, Lange and VC. I think that Patek's "base" watches are underwhelming, save for the Nautilus (I actually really like the 5227, but that is espensivo). I would get the PML in Stainless, because I think it is a whole lot of watch for a small price. But in rose gold... jeez, you are getting so close to Lange territory, that I would not bother.

The Lange aub/auf is one of the most beautiful watches that the company makes, and it is just so quintessentially Lange. And nothing feels the same as strapping one on your wrist. They are weighted very nicely, and are beautifully made.
 

 

Has Stitchy weighed in on this yet? Did I miss it? Or do you not want to admit to agreeing with me :embar:

post #28880 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaplan View Post

New strap, Hermeline Calf from Camille Fournet:
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Circling back just to say that I really like this combo....it's a nice shade to complement that sweet Mark XV.
post #28881 of 48312
You guys keep quoting the pic of that Lange, and now I find myself wanting it badly ffffuuuu.gif
post #28882 of 48312
Doing some desk diving today with the SBDX001


post #28883 of 48312
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Originally Posted by Macs View Post

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Long story short: liked this so much when I was a kid that I managed to convince my dad to hand it over to me for my graduation 13 years ago.

Cool story.
post #28884 of 48312
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Originally Posted by TheTukker View Post


Cool story.

Thanks!

post #28885 of 48312
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Originally Posted by DLJr View Post

Has Stitchy weighed in on this yet? Did I miss it? Or do you not want to admit to agreeing with me shog%5B1%5D.gif

Mea culpa! I misread icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

I second most all of what you said ha!
post #28886 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLJr View Post

Lange of your list followed by the GO. The GO will get little respect because it's derivative despite having the superior dial layout to the 1 (though I'm likely the one of the few people with this opinion who truly believes it). I also like Mimos suggestion of the perpetual from GO. But regardless, if I'm going precious metal I'd likely go Lange, plus I love that particular watch in general. You'll find the GO's with deeper discounts though. I'm just not a fan of that perpetual from JLC even though I want to be.

 

I don't think it's entirely fair to consider the Pano "derivative" of the L1: it's a natural assumption to think of something that's cheaper-than-but-similar-to as an hommage or "derivative of", by definition.  And it's usually true I suppose.  But I don't believe so in this case: Lange and GO are born (reborn in Lange's case), out of the same company, only twenty years ago.  There are several similarities in style in these models, but it's not as if one company went and imitated the timeless classic of another (e.g. MP's unashamedly Sub-alike Seiko, that's in a very different place in the market).  As you said, the Pano has arguable superiority in some areas, of which I would cite their brilliant symmetrical "big date".  Maybe GO's is the defining "big date"?  GO belongs to Swatch, and is a lot cheaper.  But just because Lange belongs to Richemont doesn't make it a re-badged JLC.

 

Where I would agree is that Lange > GO as a general rule, and not just in price.  I'd want that gold Pano (or in my case, the Senator Perpetual that I desire in steel), at at least 30-40% off.  I'd probably look at a used one to get around that scary depreciation hit that Dino mentioned.  But that brings me to a question for the OP: does it have to be new?  I'd rather have a better watch "new to me" in mint condition, I think, even for a special occasion.  And if so, it might be worth enlisting Stitchy for a special watch location service.  He fixed Kai up with that stunning Lange 1 Time Zone in rose gold, after all.

 

Anyway, no question the Lange 1815 Ab/Auf is the best watch there.  But it's also right at the top of the budget.  Maybe look for something nearly new, and set our man off on a bargain hunt?  You might even be able to get something with a higher list then, like a Lange 1 Moonphase.  Especially if you don't love the Up-Down so much after wearing it: it's only 36mm x 7mm so a lot less substantial than the others you listed.  I bet Stitchy can get you a big sexy one for thirty grand easy!

post #28887 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post
 

 

I don't think it's entirely fair to consider the Pano "derivative" of the L1: it's a natural assumption to think of something that's cheaper-than-but-similar-to as an hommage or "derivative of", by definition.  And it's usually true I suppose.  But I don't believe so in this case: Lange and GO are born (reborn in Lange's case), out of the same company, only twenty years ago.  There are several similarities in style in these models, but it's not as if one company went and imitated the timeless classic of another (e.g. MP's unashamedly Sub-alike Seiko, that's in a very different place in the market).  As you said, the Pano has arguable superiority in some areas, of which I would cite their brilliant symmetrical "big date".  Maybe GO's is the defining "big date"?  GO belongs to Swatch, and is a lot cheaper.  But just because Lange belongs to Richemont doesn't make it a re-badged JLC.

 

Where I would agree is that Lange > GO as a general rule, and not just in price.  I'd want that gold Pano (or in my case, the Senator Perpetual that I desire in steel), at at least 30-40% off.  I'd probably look at a used one to get around that scary depreciation hit that Dino mentioned.  But that brings me to a question for the OP: does it have to be new?  I'd rather have a better watch "new to me" in mint condition, I think, even for a special occasion.  And if so, it might be worth enlisting Stitchy for a special watch location service.  He fixed Kai up with that stunning Lange 1 Time Zone in rose gold, after all.

 


I don't disagree with any of this, I was just saying how most people tend to talk about the Pano series. I know I could handle having Dino next to me expressing his unfiltered opinion on the PML every second I had it on my wrist and it wouldn't change my opinion of the watch at all. I just don't think if you really want the Lange 1, or if you are sensitive to the opinions of other watch lovers, that the PML is right for you. That is what I was trying to get across there in less words.

 

I love GO, but in steel. I think steel fits in better with there general aesthetic. So for me I'd look to other brands for gold. But I certainly agree to shopping around if you want a GO in a precious metal. I believe a LNIB would be deeply discounted and a great buy if that's what you were after.

post #28888 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

I don't think it's entirely fair to consider the Pano "derivative" of the L1: it's a natural assumption to think of something that's cheaper-than-but-similar-to as an hommage or "derivative of", by definition.  And it's usually true I suppose.  But I don't believe so in this case: Lange and GO are born (reborn in Lange's case), out of the same company, only twenty years ago.  There are several similarities in style in these models, but it's not as if one company went and imitated the timeless classic of another (e.g. MP's unashamedly Sub-alike Seiko, that's in a very different place in the market).  As you said, the Pano has arguable superiority in some areas, of which I would cite their brilliant symmetrical "big date".  Maybe GO's is the defining "big date"?  GO belongs to Swatch, and is a lot cheaper.  But just because Lange belongs to Richemont doesn't make it a re-badged JLC.

Where I would agree is that Lange > GO as a general rule, and not just in price.  I'd want that gold Pano (or in my case, the Senator Perpetual that I desire in steel), at at least 30-40% off.  I'd probably look at a used one to get around that scary depreciation hit that Dino mentioned.  But that brings me to a question for the OP: does it have to be new?  I'd rather have a better watch "new to me" in mint condition, I think, even for a special occasion.  And if so, it might be worth enlisting Stitchy for a special watch location service.  He fixed Kai up with that stunning Lange 1 Time Zone in rose gold, after all.

Anyway, no question the Lange 1815 Ab/Auf is the best watch there.  But it's also right at the top of the budget.  Maybe look for something nearly new, and set our man off on a bargain hunt?  You might even be able to get something with a higher list then, like a Lange 1 Moonphase.  Especially if you don't love the Up-Down so much after wearing it: it's only 36mm x 7mm so a lot less substantial than the others you listed.  I bet Stitchy can get you a big sexy one for thirty grand easy!

A couple things--I agree with your general sentiments wholeheartedly. The GO is going to take a super huge, very scary depreciation hit. I have no doubt that you could find it for $12-$15k if you wait long enough. And there is a LOT of merit in buying used in that price range. It opens a WHOLE lot of doors. And at that price point, the previous owners babied the living heck out of those watches. And I think that GO's big date is much prettier than Langes, and is a much better solution to the "big date problem," as the GO big date has no overlap. And, well, the Lange big date mechanism has a VERY noticeable big date gap. Thus the "windows" outlining the BD.

A few things--the new aub/auf is actually 39mm, and has a completely new Caliber with stop-seconds. Very cool. I like the increase in size.

But I wanted to say, the SBDX001, or the MM300--I would hesitate to call it overly derivative. This is my inner Seiko nerd coming out, but the MM300 is NO slouch. It is a very well finished diver, and offers probably the best bang for the buck in the price range (it used to offer a better bang for your buck... but alas, price increases). It comes from a long history of Seiko divers, and although it "borrows" from the Rolex in regards to the indices, is very much its own watch. It is also fairly pricey, around $2k - $2.5k. The movement is an unfinished GS movement, the case is one piece of metal (movement is accessed by removing the crystal--a monoblock case), and it is made for professional divers. It is a serious piece of diving and desk-diving equipment. Although it uses round lumed indices, I believe that it is based on the functional benefits rather than merely borrowing Rolex goodwill.

Here is a nice outline of Seiko's "serious dive watch" history:

The history of Seiko diver can be traced back to 1965 when the first dive watch the 150m 62MAS-010 was introduced. The most amazing aspect of Seiko dive history is its almost uninterrupted production run from the mid-1960s to present day. Much like the Grand Seiko series, the development of Seiko diver for its domestic market was an attempt by the company to match the Swiss in terms of quality and performance when national pride swept the country after it re-entered the world stage with the 1964 Tokyo Olympic.

However in 1968 Seiko divers hit a wall so to speak. Following 3 successive models released in 4 short years, the next new Seiko diver was not released for another 7 years until 1975 following a letter received by Seiko from a professional SAT diver from Kure City in the Hiroshima Prefecture complaining of the many failing of his numerous Seiko divers when working in SAT dive depth. Shocked by the letter and serious about developing a dive watch capable for the professional divers, the 7 year span saw Seiko sports division engineers tested and researched to create a professional dive watch.

In 1975, Seiko unveiled the Seiko Professional 600m 6159-022. The 7 years development period saw Seiko engineered many first and improvements. It was the first dive watch to use titanium case, first with a rubber strap with three ribbed vents. It also designed and patented the L-shaped gasket to vent helium gases much like the function of the HRV without the HRV crown.

From inexpensive market entry divers like the current 7S series to the professional Prospex series, Seiko divers are certainly the most popular and widely used everyday diver’s watches. The many anecdotes of Seiko divers withstanding harsh beating and many years of abuse by soldiers, professionals and the average Joe makes it one of the most undervalued and underappreciated watches in the market and thus the developing status of Seiko watches today.

Here is a fun little comparative review [pictures are dead, unfortunately]: http://forums.watchuseek.com/f304/comparative-review-seiko-sbdx001-marinemaster-vs-rolex-16610lv-296162.html
post #28889 of 48312
Also, I am greatly enjoying this discussion, some great points all around.

And welcome back Belli, I am glad you have found "solace" in your collection. That must be an excellent feeling!

I would love to see a group shot of your watches at some point.
post #28890 of 48312
Thanks everyone for taking the time to comment and for the honest opinions. That’s what I am looking for here. I plan to take my time and enjoy the process.

Apropos - Yes, I happen to be a urologist, hence the name. (Those in the medical profession will get the joke). The Breguet is beautiful and I really like that style hands and numbers – I will check it out!

As many others said, I am underwhelmed by the ‘lower-priced’ Patek offerings, but the 5296 sector dial seemed the most interesting of the choices I saw from them. It will stay on the list for now, at least until I see one ‘in the flesh’.

Regarding GO vs Lange – It’s become more clear than ever that I need to try on the Lange options in order to appreciate what I would be getting. It’s hard to ignore the price difference but for a special occasion like this, I don’t want to be left wishing I had spent some more and purchased the ‘real thing’. Also, I am drawn to the concept of getting a timepiece that is not available in SS, and the comments reinforce those sentiments. Same is true for some of the JLC models.

Robw, Cleav, mguy001 – The VC 1921 is… intriguing, but may be out of my price range as dino indicates. Nevertheless I will try to find one to try on, and will look again at the brand.

Regarding the rose gold choice. My wife really likes rose gold and I think the only way I can pull this off with her blessing is to get something in that material (I like it as well, of course).
She does not really understand why I need more than one watch (!) but she does humor me (I remind her that there are worse vices), and she consistently picks rose gold watches when I drag her to the dealers.
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