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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 1886  

post #28276 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleav View Post

Dino cheers.gif

Its okay man, thanks

PS are you as learned dear friend with Pocket Watches?

Hi Cleav, that is a lovely pocket watch.  I'm sure you will enjoy using it.  I'm afraid I don't have much background with regard to pocket watches.  Hopefully, you will be able to find some information about your pocket watch via the net. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayward View Post

Speaking of which: why are good looking square and tonneau cased watches so rare, at least for men? Are they harder to make?

Hi Hayward,

 

I they are a bit more complicated to make, and at least many years ago, they were tougher to make water resistant, as you had sort of irregular shapes and sharp edges involved with squares and rectangles, which don't can hinder the longevity of gaskets if pinched.  In addition, you often do not have the same economy of scales with square, rectangular, or asymmetric cased watches.  You are often limited by the shape of the watch, in terms of the movement.  Round movements will fit in any case shape, but if you use a square, rectangular, or asymmetric case, you have to use a much smaller sized movement to avoid the constraints caused by corners...in this case putting a round peg in a square hole. Still cheaper to go that route than to make a square or rectangular movement as many companies focus on round watches, so its not cost effective to make square or rectangular movements for what might be a tiny bit of their annual production.  The handful of companies that go through the trouble of making square/rectangular movements are AL&S, JLC, and Piaget.  On occasion other companies do, but most times even Patek and AP just use smaller sized round movements and put them in rectangular pieces (Yes I know PP's 10 day Tourbillon was a rectangular movement, but that seems to be less common for them).  I love non-round dress watches, as it really feels like dressing up going from one of my steel round sport watches to a RG square, rectangular, or asymmetric cased watch.    I think also, most men find the fancier case shapes a bit too dressy for them...and not sporty enough.  It can seem like a big transition for some to go from a round watch to a non-round watch. 

 

Below is one of my favorite pieces from Cartier, specifically because it used a rectangular movement rather than a more cost constrained smaller round one.

 

Frills, yes I had noticed that in that image involving the stick figure with the AP...his crown appears to be a Rolex crown.  I thought it was amusing.

post #28277 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith T View Post

Beautiful pics, Cleav.

Looks like they are in safe hands....you will undoubtedly take great care of them.

(Perhaps they will see some use as well?)

Keith T the PS has been out there and no doubt sometimes when it shouldn't be but hey wtf

Re the half hunter I'd got to the point considering that, I'd be concerned about losing it. However, I'd also tipped myself over the edge and will be asking @upr_crust for advice. That okay Upr?
post #28278 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by akatsuki View Post

There are plenty of nice dress watches in that price - Seiko, Frederique Constant, a bunch of small indies (e.g.,Dornbluth), etc.

I guess I'm just too picky then, as I haven't seen any that I really like.

I'm sure there has to be a lot out there that I haven't seen, so if you or anybody else have any particualr favourites I'd love to see them.
post #28279 of 48312
Probably better to let people know what style you like and work from there. I like the Dornbluths quite a bit. There is always vintage as well.
post #28280 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaplan View Post

I guess I'm just too picky then, as I haven't seen any that I really like.

I'm sure there has to be a lot out there that I haven't seen, so if you or anybody else have any particualr favourites I'd love to see them.
post #28281 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayward View Post

Zenith is a great brand, they (still?) do movements in house, and has a great history. But the design in recent years leaves much to be desired. Even so it's better than it was a few years ago, when they were the Edina Monsoon of watch designs.

Before they went crazy they used to make some great looking watches. Maybe Zenith could herald a 70's revival in watch design, or they could develop a real contemporary aesthetic of their own.

 

Hayward, they haven't been doing much of  the crazy designs for a good few years now - since Thierry Nataf got the boot.  There are several of their current designs that I would happily own and one that I do own:

 

 

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post #28282 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by akatsuki View Post

Probably better to let people know what style you like and work from there. I like the Dornbluths quite a bit. There is always vintage as well.

What I'm specifically looking for is a time only or at most a time + date watch. Not necessarily über dressy or vintage'y but with a focus on clean features. Hopefully in a case similar to the Zenith or IWC posted above, that is: no extra detailing on the lugs like on the Hamilton in the above link. Clean dial: not three different fonts like on a GS and preferably stick markers. Hands can be plain or dauphine or maybe leaf. Blued would be nice. Lume not required. Dial colour ideally white, but it seems very few does this so I guess silver (but the 'whiter' the better). Since this should have a thin bezel, I think it'll wear and look too big if 40mm+. I believe 36-38 is ideal.

A couple of discontinued examples of the simplicity I'm looking for:





Like you say, going vintage is an option. I'm just disappointed that no one (that I've seen) currently seem to be able to get this kind of simple watch just right (for me). And when they get close, they're too large.
post #28283 of 48312

No love for this?

 

 

or this:

 

 

 

or:

 

 

or :

 

 

 

All hamilton Jazzmaster autos.

post #28284 of 48312
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

or this:

 

 

 

or:

 

 

or :

 

 

 

All hamilton Jazzmaster autos.

 

 

:D

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

post #28285 of 48312
IWC portofino
http://www.chrono24.com/en/iwc/portofino--automatic---38mm--id2343364.htm

Orient Star @ $210!
http://orientwatchusa.com/collections/mens-watches/classic/er27007w

Glashutte Senator goes a bit over to $5K

Longines Saint Imier

That is just a quick search. 38mm baton markers dress watch gets me a lot of random hits.
post #28286 of 48312


I know what you mean, Kap. My Tudor fits the bill you're looking for (at 32mm), I think. It certainly fits my bill smile.gif
post #28287 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleav View Post

Keith T the PS has been out there and no doubt sometimes when it shouldn't be but hey wtf

Re the half hunter I'd got to the point considering that, I'd be concerned about losing it. However, I'd also tipped myself over the edge and will be asking @upr_crust for advice. That okay Upr?

You may PM me for advice at your leisure, Cleav. Watches are not my field of expertise, and the half hunter which I own is mechanical, but is modern, and was not expensive, but does the job, at least as decoration smile.gif.
post #28288 of 48312
So, I have to say, not too impressed with SIHH today. Other than JLC, most everything I saw was just really, really, really expensive, and often times really large.

Out of what JLC put out, a couple things caught my eye (I like the white and blue Reverso), but all in all everything seemed a little bit duplicative. Lots of new case variations and such.

Lange definitely put out some interesting novelties. I think that the Terraluna is gorgeous, but at 46mm x 16mm, just way, way, way too large. Also, the price FIRMLY places it in unattainable category. It is good to see an 1815 small seconds at 38.5mm in the Lange lineup though. However, at that price I would rather just go for the 1815 aub/auf.

To echo a previous post, the AP ROO 42mm are... intriguing, and they are a hell of a guilty pleasure watch. BUT, at that price, you could pick up the above mentioned ALS aub/auf, a Nautilus, a RO 15202, and ANY NUMBER of other watches that (in my opinion) are more beautiful and horologically interesting. But then again, I am nothing if not a stodgy old man.

All in all, a little bit disappointed. But at least there are no new temptations!

I think that Basel will likely be more interesting, especially with Patek's anniversary.

So that is my preliminary feedback satisfied.gif
post #28289 of 48312
Kap

Though I see your points, I still find this particular Zenith rather handsome.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaplan View Post

I read a review of it from 2010 that had it at 3.500 Euro; haven't checked current prices.

While it looks great at first glance (and in that first photo I posted), it's just such a wasted opportunity. Easier to see in this shot:



On one hand the dial proportions are just off. The sub dial sitting too far from the edge and the clumsy 5 minute double markers both point to the problem of fitting too small a movement in a too large case (like butter spread over too much bread, as Bilbo would put it). Painfully noticeable via the display back as well.

On the other hand, this kind of dress watch wears too large at 40mm for all but the biggest of dudes.

It may look fine here:



but for most it'll likely to look more like this:


Appologies to those I stole the photos from

Reduced 2-4mm it could've been a classic (IMHO the Orient Bambino suffers from the same issue).
post #28290 of 48312
^ It is. The biggest problem is the size.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post

No love for this? ... All hamilton Jazzmaster autos.
No, but thanks for the suggestions. (Problems with the Jazzmasters: Too intricate lug/case design, don't like the arabic numerals, I haven't checked their sizes which may be fine.)

Quote:
That's not a current Portofino. The new ones are too large at 40mm, have an annoying mix of roman an arabic numerals, a date set too far from the edge and unnecessary red stuff on the dial. Plus I've never cared for the Portofino's case design. What I'd like to find is something with a case along the lines of the Portuguese or Pilot watches, if we look at IWC's offerings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by akatsuki View Post

Orient Star @ $210!
http://orientwatchusa.com/collections/mens-watches/classic/er27007w

Not bad. I prefer the design of the Bambino, but both of these are too large.
Quote:
Originally Posted by akatsuki View Post

Glashutte Senator goes a bit over to $5K

Longines Saint Imier
I dislike the font of the 3, 6, 9, 12 numerals on some Glashüttes, but this one looks great:



- don't know the size and I assume above budget.

Thanks for pointing me to the Longines Saint Imier, hadn't seen that one before. This model at 38.5mm looks pretty good, but only seems to come with a black dial:



Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWraith View Post

I know what you mean, Kap. My Tudor fits the bill you're looking for (at 32mm), I think. It certainly fits my bill smile.gif
Is that from the current line-up? I would prefer it without the numerals and slightly larger, but it still looks nice.

Apologies if my critique of the suggestions come off as dismissive, that's not my intention. Again, I'm just mostly frustrated that there doesn't seem to be any current production models with the simple design aesthetic *I'm* looking for, in a wearable size, without resorting to the likes of PP and maybe VC.

These, for instance, are pretty much exactly what I'm looking for:







This kind of purity of design just seems so obvious, like you've distilled the watch to it's basic core, that I'm surprised that it's not easier to come by.

Now, this is very much a want and not a need, which is why I'm being overly picky about it :-)
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