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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 1859post #27871 of 483121/12/14 at 9:18ampost #27872 of 483121/12/14 at 9:19amUnless you work in a very conservative environment or have many formal occasions to go to, I wouldn't worry that much about the "dress watch" rules. These days, there are very few occasions where it would be out of place wearing a larger or more sporty type watch.
The max bill watch doesn't do anything for me. Obviously this is a matter of personal taste, but I would try to get something from a real watch brand if I was spending that kind of money. I really ike the style of the IWC Portuguese models. They are dressy but at the same time go well with everything IMO. You can find hand wound models in the 5k range maybe a little more. I actually saw one from the vintage collection with a black dial on timezone for 5000 the other day. I think that is a really nice watch and you're getting a really high-quality timepiece. If the 44 mm size is too big for you, you can also look around for the reference 3531, which is smaller at 35 mm but also just a really beautiful well-made watch.
Otherwise I would look at some of the blancpain models. You can really get a lot for your money these days for very high grade watches.
There's also the option of vintage.
Take your time, check out lots of watches and enjoy the huntQuote:Originally Posted by mezentius
Started doing some research on getting my first (quite literally) watch. Been learning about how watches work and, of course, going through the TWAT thread. I think I've developed my "first draft" of likes and dislikes in a watch, and was hoping to get some directions from people here.
What I'm looking for
- something erring on the side of conservative
- something with subtle character
- classic rather than modern
- a more versatile watch, but on the side of dressy (after all, this is going to be my one watch for quite a while; if I were to choose between an everyday watch or a formal watch, I'd go with formal, but if I could wear it everyday that would be a plus)
What I don't like
- chunky watches
- big shapes on the dial
- Rolexes (Rolecies?)
Budget is ~4.5k USD.
Now, I'm quite new to this genre, so I don't expect to make any purchases soon. But, after maybe a week or so of casually perusing watch threads, I've found the first watch (short of 200k Pateks) which I actually felt anything for (but I haven't seen that many watches, hence why I'm asking around now) - the Max Bill Chronoscope:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Why I like it
- well within budget
- apparently it's a proper quality watch with a proper movement (Valjoux 7750)
- clean, understated dial
- small bezel
- looks very functional, as if I just ripped it out of an instrument panel and strapped it to my wrist. Particularly like the pushers.
- Dat font. Normally I'm not a fan of arabic numerals on watches, but dat font.
- (might be completely wrong here) it is understated enough to be dressy, but still would look out of place everyday because of the letters and the stopwatch pushers
Why I'm apprehensive
- 40 mm might be a bit big for dress watches?
- Difficult to purchase, and cannot try it on, as I am in Australia and it's impossible to find anything down here.
- Might be a bit too anachronistic
- Not sapphire crystal (does it matter that much?)
So, thoughts on this watch? If I were to get this watch, I'd probably get the steel with numbered dial. Even though the numberless dial is more clean and elegant, I feel that the numbers give it so much more character. Also, as this is still early days, any alternatives would be greatly appreciated as well.
Thanks!post #27873 of 483121/12/14 at 10:09amQuote:Originally Posted by jbarwick
I like the recent $4,500 watch question for 2 reasons:
1. In TWAT we make reasonable recommendations that people find useful while adhering to their initial request and price range.
2. We take their stretch budget and add a few thousand while saying the time pieces in this new price range are very nice, pushing them to go further.
Mimo has this down to a science!
The irony being that he also has the most cheap-ass and limited watches himself, and a relatively recent interest in the subject at all...all going back to a momentary passing post in TWAT about a year and a half ago. I did buy an Orange Monster though!
Having said that, should I ever be less than the bum I have become, I fear I might have to own something rather more respectable one day, and I've certainly had the practice shopping for others and tyre-kicking on an international scale. For the next step, perhaps a big jump to $1k. (And I know what it will be...)post #27874 of 483121/12/14 at 2:07pmQuote:
Many take the same view about standards and conventions of proper dress. Why bother at all, when few will understand the "rules" and fewer still will care?
It either matters to the individual, or it does not.post #27875 of 483121/12/14 at 2:14pmpost #27876 of 483121/12/14 at 2:18pmpost #27877 of 483121/12/14 at 2:33pmpost #27878 of 483121/12/14 at 2:35pmpost #27879 of 483121/12/14 at 6:32pmpost #27880 of 483121/12/14 at 9:11pmpost #27881 of 483121/13/14 at 4:20ampost #27882 of 483121/13/14 at 4:33am
I like the Orion - the standard one but in the 38mm size would be my personal choice. Reasonable price too, I think (about $2200 for that one if I recall correctly). Very much a dress watch, perhaps a bit plain for our man if he didn't like the standard Max Bill? But the blued hands and small seconds go a long way for me. Yummy.post #27883 of 483121/13/14 at 5:40am
Right now, it's because if I were to get a Nomos it would be for practicality (safety, discretion, cost-efficiency) rather than because I am in love with it, like the JLC/Chronoswiss/Max Bill. Mimo has it right at the moment, but I suspect it's one of those watches you have to see in person to appreciate, so it's still on my list. Well, that or the Zurich. Still not quite sure why the Zurich is 2k more, though, of it it's worth it. In any case, heading out to have a peek at the watches around town tomorrow, got a list of IWC/JLC and Nomos ADs here in Sydney. Plenty of time to think about this, though - going to wait until the next time I go overseas before I buy so I can get the sales tax refund, unless someone makes me an offer I can't refuse...
P.S. HHHHRRRNNNGGG @ the JLC pictures.post #27884 of 483121/13/14 at 5:44am
I would say the Orion is simpler and more understated than the Zurich if that's your purpose. And you've plenty of change left from your budget. One thing I forgot to suggest before: if something's not available in your market, look up some wrist shots too - it's very different from seeing the catalogue pictures, and you can get a much better idea of finish, colours and scale from seeing a few on other people, even in photographs.
Happy shopping. :)post #27885 of 483121/13/14 at 5:59amToday I spent my lunchtime in the street outside my office, in a parked 911 4S looking at two Patek 5980s, an Explorer II 1655 and a Daytona 6239. I love that my local second hand dealer has a take-away service (Actually, he is not the only one I know who does it, I sometimes sit in a japanese SUV doing the same thing ... ) I wore my Nautilus 5712 to compare to the 5980s. Sorry, no pictures were taken.
I have to say, the white 5980 is hot! I have tried it on at ADs before, but never had the chance to try it alongside the blue 5980.
I had a few scenarios in mind, one of which involved trading in my 5712 (and another watch) for one of them. Now, that is not happening. The thinness of the 5712 (and the 5711, of course) is really what the Nautilus is supposed to be all about. So descreet under the cuff and still cool with short sleeves.
But the 5980 is still very, very cool! Just in a different way than the 5712. I happen to love the Nautilus bracelet the way most watch nuts speak of the RO bracelet (which I don't care much for in the 15300 or 15300, but the 15202 is nice!). It's just so slinky and smooth around my wrist. The 5980 has a slightly beefier bracelet, just enough to accomodate the chunkier case of the chrono. The whole package just looks cool, and is way more comfortable on me than any Royal Oak chrono.
The other scenario, seeing as I'm not getting rid of the 5712, involves getting rid of a whole bunch of nice watches to pay for the 5980. That I don't know if it's worth.
What do you think of the 5980 in white? Sacrilege? What if you already have a blue Nautilus?
The white dial lacks a lot of the depth of the blue (and grey), but instead you get a non-contrasting subdial, which I think is perhaps just as cool as the contrasting one of the blue. Makes the dial bigger. Also, the black hands and indeces are quite different, and very legible. I love the black on white hands of the polar Explorer II, and this has something similar going on.
I have no idea what the apparant discontinuation of the 5980 is going to mean to the market for these watches. The white 5980 can't have been sold in great numbers. Not that it is what matters, but it is a point to perhaps counter the fact that the blue dial is so, so classic.
Anyway, these are my confused thoughts of the day, while I wait for my code to compile. (To non-techies: An excuse not to do actual work.)
An oh, what about the Rolexes? The 1655 is super cool, but unsure about this particular one. The case was too perfect. Originated in Hong Kong, and I'm a sceptic. I'm sure it's authentic, but they get awfully good a laserwelding over there ... Still, I would love to own one. The Daytona is of course amazing, but on the hand the old case is rather diminutive for a sports chrono. I think I prefer my vintage Rolexes to be 40mm or thereabout.
Edited by NonServiam - 1/13/14 at 6:22am
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