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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 1781  

post #26701 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

Definitely, call the service centers and ask what an overhaul costs for which ever pieces you are considering.  You can look up where your nearest service center is/contact info online.  It makes far more sense to go directly to the source rather than hoping a sales associate has recently dealt with a service issue relating to one of the exact watches you have questions about servicing.  

As for durability, I can't really tell you if Platinum is more durable than stainless steel.  I'd probably treat my precious metal watches with a bit more care than my steel watches, although I'm pretty gentle with all of my watches.  The question "Why get Platinum over Steel?" That's a bit like someone asking why purchase a pair of crocodile John Lobb shoes for several thousand dollars, if a pair of $250 shoes with croc embossing fit you comfortably.  Sure 2 pairs of brown could look the same to most people so why bother spending more.  There are things that go beyond simply the basic appearance and price.  You get into the quality of materials, the workmanship, and intangibles like not having the same thing as a dozen other people at work, or appreciating the tanning process used with finer leathers.

I think Platinum is a bit of a thinking man's choice.  It flies under the radar, it could be mistaken for steel or white gold by casual observers.  Its not as blingy as yellow gold, particularly on a big watch like a Daytona.  However, its a precious metal that is more durable than white gold, it needs no plating to look white (some white gold is rhodium plated because some compositions of WG in their natural state look dark gray), its has sort of a luxurious heaviness not experienced with steel.  In addition, if you scratch gold, its very easy to polish the scratches out, but because its such a soft/delicate material you lose some of the metal (I've even seen 40 year old wedding bands that had nearly worn through in some places just from daily wear, it obviously depends on ones activities, but it can happen).  However, when you polish platinum you lose almost no metal, you merely move the displaced molecules around, its just far more durable than gold.  

Its purer than white gold, 95% pure platinum for most watches (I've seen jewelry grade platinum ranging from 90-99% pure, but the most common is 95%, again an 18Kt gold watch is only going to be 75% gold.  In addition, one can consider the intangibles, its more difficult to work with than gold, its more difficult to mine ( I read something years ago to the effect of it take about 3 tons of gold ore to produce 1 ounce of pure fine gold while it takes 10 tons of platinum ore to produce 1 ounce of pure platinum).  So you are talking about more work, more refining etc.  In addition, companies usually produce far more watches in gold than they do platinum, so there is a rarity factor.  Think of the number of gold Rolex watches one sees in person or even in a watch shop, relative to the number of platinum Rolex watches one sees.  Platinum certainly not for everyone, and for some people maybe a steel watch is the right choice.  If I were buying a precious metal watch and its going to be gold, I would choose rose gold, as its less brassy than yellow gold, and it looks like gold.  I had a white gold watch, but its qualities didn't seem special enough to justify the premium over steel or even over RG or YG (WG, particularly if plated with rhodium often costs a bit more than rose or yg when a watch is new...and then you deal with possible re-plating issues), and it wasn't as unique or durable as platinum.  However, IMHO based on the rarity, difficulty to mine, difficulty to work with, additional labor it requires to procure/produce, and its durability its worth a premium if one can afford a fine watch in platinum.  I certainly hope to add a platinum watch in my collection some day.   In the words of Ferris Bueller, ..."It is so choice.  If you have the means I highly recommend picking one up!"  cheers.gif

Thanks for the write up!
post #26702 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

...

Not to be overly pedantic, but I believe it was the venerable Dufour who said that the Datograph was the best serially produced wristwatch. What I find just as interesting, is that he actually owns a Datograph. Supposedly it is one of the very few watches that he actually owns. I always found that quite interesting, and a heck of a testament to Lange.

But I completely agree with your assessment. The Datograph just blows the platinum Daytona out of the water in darn near every category. The two things I can think of that contribute so highly to the Daytona's high price are the insane amounts of platinum that are in that watch and the machining difficulty. But other than that, the Lange is in a completely different ballpark. Call me crazy, but I prefer the original than the new Dato up/down.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

...

Dino, just a great write up. Very fascinating, I never knew all that. Thanks for taking the time to lay it all out there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

Man, your Illuminati WhatsApp group is really something! Good morning. smile.gif

+1. That is a heck of a get together. I <3 that Dato.

On a different note, I just wanted to share a little story. I have been somewhat out of the watch game a bit lately, as I have been focusing a lot more on my workwear (for those who follow the NMWA thread...). And really, I have been so content with my current pair, the Speedy and the MUT Moon, that I do not really feel any sense of urgency to acquire anything new (finally). But, having exhausted my morning reading early yesterday morning (down with the flu), I decided to check out the Timezone Showcase to see if there was anything interesting. And lo and behold, after about a year of shutting this darn thing out of my memory, I stumbled upon the stunning IWC 5251:



The IWC 5251 is actually one of the first watches that I ever laid my eyes on online. The first time I saw it, I was absolutely smitten. When I look back at my earliest "want" lists, that watch inspired most of my initial watch "crushes." I knew that the watch was out of production, but the IWC Port Chrono, the IWC 7 Day, and the Dornblueth 99.2 all kind of scratched that deck-watch itch. Since then, I have kind of grown out of my deck watch fascination phase. But every now and then I see the 5251 and all of those mushy feelings come back. I think that it may have the most gorgeous dial I have ever seen, bar none. Of course that is a subjective statement, but I do not think anyone can look at that watch and not think that there is something special about it. The watch is also incredibly thin--it is only 6mm wide, and it contains a pocket watch movement and has a big acrylic crystal.

The only real downside for me is the size--it clocks in at a monstrous 46mm.



However, considering that it was first made in 1981... it really does not bother me too much. This watch was just so ahead of its time. It is almost like it was a complete experiment. It is such an anomaly that I cannot help but love everything about it. It is probably the only watch that I have ever fallen completely, heads over heels in love with.

http://people.timezone.com/library/comarticles/comarticles0035
post #26703 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post




The only real downside for me is the size--it clocks in at a monstrous 46mm.

No downside here for me!



http://people.timezone.com/library/comarticles/comarticles0035

Love that newcomer, thanks for sharing. I shudder to think how much it might take to land one?
post #26704 of 48312

Nuke, I hang my head in shame, it was indeed Philippe Dufour. I was just reading about both of them the other day.  Doh!  Yes, he has an original Datograph, in rose gold.  Which I've never seen up close, and can be had for about $50k used and complete.

 

It's the new one that touched my heart; bigger case, cleaner dial, big power reserve.  Didn't want to give it back!

 

 

At nearer $80k new it will have to wait, though.  Maybe until I've burgled Frilly's house and sold his Pateks.  Well, the gold ones...

 

As for your extraordinary IWC, it's certainly a beauty.  I love the dial layout, the hands and the slender numerals.  Sure, it's a dinner plate, but it's slim, with those curved wire lugs. I think you can carry it.  Anyway, if not, you can always just sit and look at it.

post #26705 of 48312
I looked, 25k USD. Beauty!
post #26706 of 48312

Could someone share the link again of the post on watchuseek that reviewed different straps for the Speedmaster?  Looked back but couldn't find it.

 

Think I finally have one on the way after striking out a few times .... Thanks in advance.

post #26707 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleav View Post

Love that newcomer, thanks for sharing. I shudder to think how much it might take to land one?

Yes, unfortunately they are quite steep. I think the MSRP was $14,000. I could see it being something of a collectors piece further down the road. The one posted on TZ was ~$22,000, which is still pretty darn high. That movement though is just spectacular.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

Nuke, I hang my head in shame, it was indeed Philippe Dufour. I was just reading about both of them the other day.  Doh!  Yes, he has an original Datograph, in rose gold.  Which I've never seen up close, and can be had for about $50k used and complete.

It's the new one that touched my heart; bigger case, cleaner dial, big power reserve.  Didn't want to give it back!

At nearer $80k new it will have to wait, though.  Maybe until I've burgled Frilly's house and sold his Pateks.  Well, the gold ones...

As for your extraordinary IWC, it's certainly a beauty.  I love the dial layout, the hands and the slender numerals.  Sure, it's a dinner plate, but it's slim, with those curved wire lugs. I think you can carry it.  Anyway, if not, you can always just sit and look at it.

They are both cut from the same cloth, for sure. Those swiss (french) names tend to blur together after a while, anywho. And I can definitely understand the appeal of the newer one. I actually like the cleaner dial and the bigger power reserve, but I do not really care for the increase in size. However, the original just has that quirkiness that I am drawn to. Plus, it is a contemporary legend. Hard to pass up on that pedigree! But yes, aesthetically, the newer version is definitely more attractive.

I am glad you share the love of the 5251. Aside from its tendency to look a little bit dinner plate-ish, it really is quite spectacular. It makes me yearn for the IWC of yesterday.

On a related note, I wish that IWC had not shortened its name on some of the models. I love the script "International Watch Company" on the old Portuguese and Portofino models. The new "industrial" font does not really jibe with the "feeling" that a deck watch conveys, in my most humble of opinions.
post #26708 of 48312
Hey guys,
any of you have any experience purchasing from chrono24?
The vendors on the site seem to sell watches at a much lower price...from what I gather, the site + its premium/pro vendors are legit, but was wondering if anyone actually bought from them. Let me know, thanks!
post #26709 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

 how about this?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Even with the date at the 3, this one is whispering to me. At $1,300 it's attainable, though indulgent at my level. I don't mind the date on this one either as the overall dial still feels very well balanced and elegant. This is the kind of classy, refined, and not ubiquitous look that I had in mind when I started looking for a dress watch. I'm going to say that my search for a first real watch (one whose dial doesn't feature a Disney character or the logo of a sports franchise) is over. Damn It Mimo... and thank you wink.gif

 

 

 

http://junghanswatchesusa.net/MEISTER/027-4110-00.html


Edited by Bill Dlwgosh - 12/1/13 at 4:03pm
post #26710 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by spacetaekwon View Post

Hey guys,
any of you have any experience purchasing from chrono24?
The vendors on the site seem to sell watches at a much lower price...from what I gather, the site + its premium/pro vendors are legit, but was wondering if anyone actually bought from them. Let me know, thanks!

I have shopped but never bought. My kicker is usually buying from a seller in the United States. That way if something goes wrong ai can track them down.

That being said I have heard nothing but good things.
post #26711 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Dlwgosh View Post

Even with the date at the 3, this one is whispering to me. At $1,300 it's attainable, though indulgent at my level. I don't mind the date on this one either as the overall dial still feels very well balanced and elegant. This is the kind of classy, elegant, and not ubiquitous look that I had in mind when I started looking for a dress watch. I'm going to say that my search for a first real watch (one whose dial doesn't feature a Disney character or the logo of a sports franchise) is over. Damn It Mimo... and thank you wink.gif





http://junghanswatchesusa.net/MEISTER/027-4110-00.html

That Mimo, he damn good nod[1].gif

Bill this is good stuff
post #26712 of 48312
^ yes very cool although I'm not familiar with that brand.
post #26713 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kid Nickels View Post

I'm not familiar with that brand.

 

That's part of the attraction :)

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleav View Post


That Mimo, he damn good nod[1].gif
 
That guy's suggestions are on track to set me back thousands of dollars... :)
post #26714 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Dlwgosh View Post

That's part of the attraction smile.gif

Bill, you know it makes sense. I'm with Mimo, if I get him right, in that if that discipline dictates then I would be cash rich and time (pieces) poor!
post #26715 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Dlwgosh View Post

That's part of the attraction smile.gif

I can understand... it's unique, very cool. In that same department I've considered along with Stowa and Nomos. I'm still knocking around in the whacked out Rado my father-in-law gave me! haha. (although I've got a few others pieces anyway)
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...)