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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, JLC etc...) - Page 947  

post #14191 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hampton View Post

When you guys talk about jewel count what do you mean?

here is the line from the rubi page



the jewels, are the red (usually ruby, or synthetic rubies) jewels you see below, in the watch movement. the blue, are the heads of blued steel screws. the jewels are placed at points in the movement, where there are gears that would create significant friction. and using a hard jewel, prevents the friction from damaging the movement. see below. also, i think that reads 52 jewels, on this lange. that is far above the norm.

12_1801_alange2.jpg
post #14192 of 48312

Aha now I understand! Thanks. 

Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post


here is the line from the rubi page

the jewels, are the red (usually ruby, or synthetic rubies) jewels you see below, in the watch movement. the blue, are the heads of blued steel screws. the jewels are placed at points in the movement, where there are gears that would create significant friction. and using a hard jewel, prevents the friction from damaging the movement. see below. also, i think that reads 52 jewels, on this lange. that is far above the norm.
12_1801_alange2.jpg
post #14193 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

here is the line from the rubi page Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
the jewels, are the red (usually ruby, or synthetic rubies) jewels you see below, in the watch movement. the blue, are the heads of blued steel screws. the jewels are placed at points in the movement, where there are gears that would create significant friction. and using a hard jewel, prevents the friction from damaging the movement. see below. also, i think that reads 52 jewels, on this lange. that is far above the norm. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
12_1801_alange2.jpg

Isn't 17 jewels all that is needed for functionality and the rest are showmanship?
post #14194 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hampton View Post

Aha now I understand! Thanks. 

my pleasure!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fang66 View Post

Isn't 17 jewels all that is needed for functionality and the rest are showmanship?

from what i understand. yes and no. for a simple 3 handed watch, i imagine 17 is enough to cover the main areas of friction. beyond that, i would say is a mixture of showmanship, and being extra careful and placing jewels in places that have less friction that could technically do without the jewel. however, as you add complications and components to a watch, you add gears and points of tention, as those are added, more jewels are required as well, to compensate for the added tention areas.

so is my understanding.
post #14195 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fang66 View Post

Isn't 17 jewels all that is needed for functionality and the rest are showmanship?

Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

my pleasure!
from what i understand. yes and no. for a simple 3 handed watch, i imagine 17 is enough to cover the main areas of friction. beyond that, i would say is a mixture of showmanship, and being extra careful and placing jewels in places that have less friction that could technically do without the jewel. however, as you add complications and components to a watch, you add gears and points of tention, as those are added, more jewels are required as well, to compensate for the added tention areas.
so is my understanding.

this is correct.
post #14196 of 48312
Tank Francaise today....I took it off the bracelet and have been wearing on a faux-croc strap:

TF.jpg

Also just noticed that I must have set it incorrectly this morning as it's the afternoon of 24th and the date apparently changed at noon (DOH!)
post #14197 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

pretty sure we just bought all or some of those, in a breitling lot we recently purchased. i havent do the research yet, are the vintage breitlings worth much?

be careful. theres a HUGE market for knockoff vintage breitlings. ive handled some that were absolutely gorgeous. but fake as pam andersons tits.
post #14198 of 48312
Thanks for the kind words. And derekS, as for my views on the Cellini, I've found it to be a pretty good watch for what I paid, which is £1700, it has kept good time and I've received plenty of compliments whenever I have worn it and most presume it to be considerably more expensive than what I paid. My only complain is that it is pretty small, even for my slight wrists, so below is a comparison with my Cartier Rotonde Solo which is 35mm, so it's pretty small!
jugadeby.jpg
post #14199 of 48312
wow. that is small! would be great as a dress watch/formal.

great cartier as well.
post #14200 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith T View Post

Tank Francaise today....I took it off the bracelet and have been wearing on a faux-croc strap:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

TF.jpg

 

Also just noticed that I must have set it incorrectly this morning as it's the afternoon of 24th and the date apparently changed at noon (DOH!)

The TF is a very versatile watch.  My wife has one and she loves it.  I think it would be a better seller with men today if they increased its size a bit.  Enjoy it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keal19 View Post

Thanks for the kind words. And derekS, as for my views on the Cellini, I've found it to be a pretty good watch for what I paid, which is £1700, it has kept good time and I've received plenty of compliments whenever I have worn it and most presume it to be considerably more expensive than what I paid. My only complain is that it is pretty small, even for my slight wrists, so below is a comparison with my Cartier Rotonde Solo which is 35mm, so it's pretty small!
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

jugadeby.jpg

 

Lots of people presume presume a Rolex is more expensive than it really is.  My secretary thought when I bought a SS Submariner in 2005 that it was $10K.  I had to tell her it was less than half of that.  As for the size, when your Celline was new in the early 90s lots of companies were still making dress watches that were less than 34mm including Patek, VC, AP, and JLC to name a few.  There were very few watches that were over 40mm in the early 90s.  As far as I recall there was the AP Royal Oak Offshore,  IWC's Doppel Chrono, and Panerai...most companies followed with larger watches in the late 90s or after 2000.

post #14201 of 48312
DerekS, your right it is very small but luckily my slight wrists make it the perfect dress watch for me.

And Dino- your right, that's why I tend to prefer vintage watches, it's almost become a race to bring out the largest watch! Which IMHO is why the AP Royal Oak is such an iconic watch because as far as I'm aware it was the original larger watch and one I'd love to own!
post #14202 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekS View Post

be careful. theres a HUGE market for knockoff vintage breitlings. ive handled some that were absolutely gorgeous. but fake as pam andersons tits.

yeah, we made sure off it. all legit. original box and papers, serial numbers, patina on dials.....
post #14203 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hampton View Post

Really? You think the price is to high?

i think that for what movement i imagine is in the watch, it is likely overpriced. but, if one has the cash, and is only concerned with looks, why not? there is far worse out there, for more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekS View Post

it is. movt looks like a very basic unmodfied 7750. however, the rubi description states its a 49 jewel...which i find odd. standard 7750 has 23 jewels, and a rolex sub has 31 jewels. i cant name any watch offhand at the moment with a 49 jewel movement. oh well. if anyone is in love with them, wait a few years and youll see em on ebay for a couple hundred.

+1 to the jewel count. i also noticed that and was taken aback. there some langes i think with jewel counts that high, maybe it was GO, but defo german. and some other swiss high multi complication models, but for a watch like that, 49 is very odd.

confused.gif

That Rubinacci looks like an ETA 2892 (or similar) with a chrono module. They're often advertised as having high jewel counts because they count the jewels on the module as well.
This Tudor has a similar layout with 45min totalizer at 9 and small seconds at 3. It has a ETA 2892-A2 movement with the Dubois-dépraz 2054 chronograph module.
http://watchlords.forumotion.net/t9173-tudor-heritage-chronograph-a-not-so-mini-mini-review
post #14204 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekS View Post

it is. movt looks like a very basic unmodfied 7750. however, the rubi description states its a 49 jewel...which i find odd. standard 7750 has 23 jewels, and a rolex sub has 31 jewels. i cant name any watch offhand at the moment with a 49 jewel movement. oh well. if anyone is in love with them, wait a few years and youll see em on ebay for a couple hundred.

heh, you was close tho.

The movement is $469 alone.

http://www.ofrei.com/page240.html


If you guys are curious about ETA movement price. Also keep in mind, watch companies obviously buy these movements in bulk (probably a lot cheaper.)

http://www.ofrei.com/page_183.html
post #14205 of 48312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keal19 View Post

And Dino- your right, that's why I tend to prefer vintage watches, it's almost become a race to bring out the largest watch! Which IMHO is why the AP Royal Oak is such an iconic watch because as far as I'm aware it was the original larger watch and one I'd love to own!

 Hi Keal,

 

I think there is a "Sweet spot" for watch sizes.  Too small and it looks like you are wearing your girlfriend/wife's watch...too large and it looks cartoonish.  Also sadly, the bulk of really large watches I see people wear are rarely very nice...makes me think some people buy a really big watch even if its not a great watch or even if it doesn't need to be as large as it is, simply for attention.  Afterall, how can people not notice something the size of a tuna can strapped to their wrist.

 

I agree completely about the AP Royal Oak.  I've never really been interested in the Offshore models, I've always favored the original design.  I've looked at them for years, and roughly 2 months ago I just picked up a new AP Royal Oak 15202 (based on the original design).  Its a really fantastic watch.  I hope one day you will be enjoying one on your own wrist.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren G. View Post

If you guys are curious about ETA movement price. Also keep in mind, watch companies obviously buy these movements in bulk (probably a lot cheaper.)
http://www.ofrei.com/page_183.html

Although, I'm generally not excited about ETA movements, one thing to consider is that different watch companies buy the movements in different states of completion and finish.  Less expensive watches may have a movement thats completely assembled, has a raw finish, and it just get thrown into a case.  Other companies like Cartier (when they use an ETA ...in say a Santos Galbee or Tank Francaise) use an ebauche which is largely parts and they assemble it and finish it to their own standards.  On higher end IWCs using ETA movements as a base, there are a significant number of modifications and changes in quality and finish (such that its hardly like what they start with)...this is particularly true of the old DaVinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph.  So even among watches using ETA movements there are different levels of involvement in the assembly and finish of the movement. 

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