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Broosk brothers 7-fold ties - Page 2

post #16 of 18
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LOL... since my ties are used in both 'sides' I thought I would opine. The 'True 7-folds' tie like my Campagna series, or the FIH's example or Robert Talbott's are the traditional '7-fold'. The Double 4-fold more commonly seen in my Como series was, to the best of my knowledge, started by Kiton. I've done both patterns using the same silk and can tell you that a double-4 and a 'true 7' use the same amount of silk essentially.  I will always do both because some folks prefer each type.  What I ahve found is that my customers generally whisper to me "Y'know, I like the IDEA of an unlined 7-fold but truth be told I like the double 4-fold better". A 'true 7' is quite elegant when you look at the construction but the choice of silks appropriate for it is rather limited.  I'm sure FIH will agree that no matter how heavy the silk the 'true 7' is far more 'finicky' and likes to wrinkle and crease. The cost is the same but the 'double-4' has some advantages.   1,  The folds are symmetrical - not true in a true-7.  The double 4 could be called an 8 fold if you really want to get down to it because the silk is first doubled and then folded twice symmmetrically over a quality liner.  Some makers use only a thin linen canvas, some a double wool and some a single wool depending on the heft and fullness they want. 2.  Wrapping around a liner helps the shape.  I have every tie made in the upper price ranges and have taken every single one apart... in short, I've 'stress tested' everything and my PERSONAL finding is that a double four is the best blend of thickness, knotting and shape.  It also allows more silk choices because most true 7's either use a double-sided weave (not many varieties) or a heavy silk with a raw back side (what I do) or a heavy jacquard that is then silk screened (talbott).  IMHO the best silks are the intricately woven ones that allow you to play with light in 3 dimensions.  I like true-7 when the silk is suited to it but find that with double-4 construction I can go a little crazy on the designs. In short - you have to decide what you like in a tie.  I like some heft and I like intricate weaves that do crazy things with the light.  In the 'regular standard construction' class I like Ricci, Zegna and Charvet for the sheen and tactile intigue and that influences many of our designs. At the end of the day i sit and listen to amny of the debates, smile, put on the tie that i am in the mood for... then carefully take the end off a Montecristo #2, pour 4 fingers of a single barrel bourbon and enjoy my evening. ...to date this has severely limited my ability to get ulcers or generally give a damn...  a skill that is more useful than any i have mastered.  It really is all small stuff guys :-) Nice silk FIH - I know the mill - nice choice.
Carlo: Great responses. We have missed your expertise these few months. Welcome back. While I agree with you that the possibilities are better with the 4 fold, I PERSONALLY was less enchanted with the 4 folds which together with the lining and the second layer of silk becomes very bulky and makes the tying of any knot other than a Four In Hand very difficult. You also limit your collars that you can wear this with. I agree as well that the silks used are more finicky and lie a little stiffer as only the silk weave is giving you the body, however the knot tied with the Seven folds is simply magnificient and adjusts easily to the touch. I am waiting for customers to complain that they have snagged the rear of the raw backed ties which in the Jacqards can get stringy due to the design and very easily snagged. Have you had this complaint yet? Many of my ties are the intricately woven ones you speak of (aside from the mill whom you are referring to Chuck) which photograh poorly due to how the light hits them but have a beautiful depth to them depending on which way they hit the regular light. Loved your Selection of Seven Folds on your site BTW. Particularly the 04, 05 and 06. JJF PS: What Bourbon do you drink?
post #17 of 18
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PS: What Bourbon do you drink?
....generally regular old Wellers Basil Hayden, Knobb Creek are also favorites and on special occasions the Wellers antique 107 is worth the hangover. On the 'raw' silks yes, the more intricate the more fragile :-) On thickness it is interesting, everyone has a different preference. I recently went through about a dozen of the best liners to figure out which one I liked for flexibility and 'plushness' and then steamed, ironed, stomped on and generally abused them to see which survived and which turned into crap.... but I'm weird (now there's a newsflash).
post #18 of 18
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PS: What Bourbon do you drink?
....generally regular old Wellers Basil Hayden, Knobb Creek are also favorites and on special occasions the Wellers antique 107 is worth the hangover. On the 'raw' silks yes, the more intricate the more fragile :-) On thickness it is interesting, everyone has a different preference. I recently went through about a dozen of the best liners to figure out which one I liked for flexibility and 'plushness' and then steamed, ironed, stomped on and generally abused them to see which survived and which turned into crap.... but I'm weird (now there's a newsflash).
I'll try anything once, but my current favorite is Van Winkle 10 YO. I'm trying to convince myself that the 20 YO is worth the money... As for the liners, okay, I'll bite: how did you select the dozen best liners, and what did you conclude from your tests? Enquiring minds want to know.
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