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The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford - Page 62

post #916 of 990
Quote:
Originally Posted by snapehead View Post

Hi guys, thanks everyone for your help. I order a pair of AS Armfields in the end. They have arrived and they are very beautiful indeed. I ordered a 7.5F (in AE Park avenues I'm a 8.5D perfect fit) but these feel slightly tight on my pinky toe. What should I do?? Will these loosen up at all? Or should I bite the bullet and pay for return and upsize?

Leather does stretch width wise and your foot will settle a bit in the footbed as you break in your shoes giving you more space.. A good portion of my shoes start off a bit snug which in the overall scheme of things is good and I don't have any issues. However there's a difference between snug and too tight as this can painful. If they are too tight then in the normal course of breaking them they wont stretch to the point where it will be a good fit. If its only slightly tight then there is a good chance you will be fine and if not you could have a cobbler stretch this specific area for you.

post #917 of 990
Quote:
Originally Posted by snapehead View Post

Hi guys, thanks everyone for your help. I order a pair of AS Armfields in the end. They have arrived and they are very beautiful indeed. I ordered a 7.5F (in AE Park avenues I'm a 8.5D perfect fit) but these feel slightly tight on my pinky toe. What should I do?? Will these loosen up at all? Or should I bite the bullet and pay for return and upsize?

How do they fit in other areas - particularly the ball of the foot? you don't want a shoe that's too long otherwise you get excessive creasing, heel slippage etc - but neither do you want a shoe that's too short, so that it rams your pinky toe too far forward into the taper of the toebox.

If the ball of your foot aligns with the flex line of the shoe, then you probably have the size right and it's a question of width to accommodate your pinky. As dddrees said it's probably a matter of personal taste in terms of how snug you like your shoes to fit, bearing in mind there will be some (not vast) give as you break them in.
post #918 of 990
Quote:
Originally Posted by grc1 View Post

How do they fit in other areas - particularly the ball of the foot? you don't want a shoe that's too long otherwise you get excessive creasing, heel slippage etc - but neither do you want a shoe that's too short, so that it rams your pinky toe too far forward into the taper of the toebox.

If the ball of your foot aligns with the flex line of the shoe, then you probably have the size right and it's a question of width to accommodate your pinky. As dddrees said it's probably a matter of personal taste in terms of how snug you like your shoes to fit, bearing in mind there will be some (not vast) give as you break them in.
Thanks guys.
In terms of fit elsewhere: tiny bit of heel slippage, but pretty good besides the pinky rubbing!
post #919 of 990
Quote:
Originally Posted by snapehead View Post


Thanks guys.
In terms of fit elsewhere: tiny bit of heel slippage, but pretty good besides the pinky rubbing!

Cap toe won´t stretch. 

post #920 of 990

I dont wear black shoes often. In fact, about the only time I do is when I am wearing a tux, which is a dozen or so times a year. I recently took a new job that has me in suits most days, so I could add more black shoes into my rotation, and so I have been thinking about a special black cap toe or Adelaide. Specifically, I have been thinking of having Vass make me one up in Black Cordovan, probably on the U last. 

 

I have been through a lot of this thread and didnt see examples, so can anyone point me to pictures of the same or provide any pros and cons of this idea?  Thanks!

post #921 of 990

Anthony Cleverley black cap toes. (I do not think this one had been added.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #922 of 990
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post #923 of 990
^^^i really like those. They were finalists along with the MH71 when I bought my only pair of plain black captoes. G&G were cheaper, which is saying something.
post #924 of 990
Quote:
Originally Posted by jssdc View Post

^^^i really like those. They were finalists along with the MH71 when I bought my only pair of plain black captoes. G&G were cheaper, which is saying something.

 

Thanks; yeah, I have St. James Cap toes in Vintage Rioja (TG73) & I will tell you, they are very similar to each other in terms of the last & shape throughout the vamp & chiseled toe. The most noticeable difference between the 2 is the way the heel is finished (I am not sure if one way is better than the other). Both very nice; you really can't go wrong either way.

post #925 of 990
Quote:
Originally Posted by bdavro23 View Post

I dont wear black shoes often. In fact, about the only time I do is when I am wearing a tux, which is a dozen or so times a year. I recently took a new job that has me in suits most days, so I could add more black shoes into my rotation, and so I have been thinking about a special black cap toe or Adelaide. Specifically, I have been thinking of having Vass make me one up in Black Cordovan, probably on the U last. 

I have been through a lot of this thread and didnt see examples, so can anyone point me to pictures of the same or provide any pros and cons of this idea?  Thanks!
To each his own, but I wouldn't recommend cordovan for a business/formal black cap toe. Calf and single leather sole would be my choice. I have two black oxfords on U-last, OldEnglish captoes and an Austerity brogue. Both are great models.

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I do also have a wholecut on U, though in Oxblood. It would be smashing in black.

post #926 of 990

For a first pair of black toe cap oxford I would not go with shell either.  

post #927 of 990
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonathanS View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jssdc View Post

^^^i really like those. They were finalists along with the MH71 when I bought my only pair of plain black captoes. G&G were cheaper, which is saying something.

 

Thanks; yeah, I have St. James Cap toes in Vintage Rioja (TG73) & I will tell you, they are very similar to each other in terms of the last & shape throughout the vamp & chiseled toe. The most noticeable difference between the 2 is the way the heel is finished (I am not sure if one way is better than the other). Both very nice; you really can't go wrong either way.

 

Heres a comparison between the Cleverley Last & the TG73 - just to show the last shape. The St. James (TG 73) are size 11.5 UK, the Cleverleys are size 11 UK

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
post #928 of 990
^^nice comparison shots! i like how the Cleverley stays straight from the ball to the toe rather than pointing outwards like TG73 or the Vass U, but then has a more pronounced square than the MH71.
post #929 of 990
Quote:
Originally Posted by snapehead View Post

Cheers, okay, going through the thread these two stand out to me as being 'sleek'. I don't think I've seen a pair in this thread that I've thought are too 'pointy'. Thanks!
To my defenition "sleek" is a shoe with a somewhat "petit" overall look. So a thin sole, a narrow cut welt, a narrow waist and, most often, not a lot of brogueing. Toe shape per see has nothing to do with it.
From others comments I see that for some it means a pointy toe last and for others a chiseled toe last, even of the shoe overall is not very sleek.
With my defenition AS certainly has sleek lasts, Armfield on 109 for one (almond toe), Moore on 724 (square, slightly chiesel toe) another.
Carmina Rain, of which I have three pairs, is a square toe last but it is also a fairly wide last and hence not the most "sleek" in my view. Inca is a pointy toe last and less wide than Rain so somewhat "sleeker" (however not at all to my taste).
Other mid range makers with sleekness is IMO Vass (U-last, K-last), Yanko (915 last), Enzo Bonafé (946 last) to mention a few.
Lowest price is Yanko, most bang-for-buck i Vass and EB.
Edited by Swede66 - 5/11/16 at 11:46am
post #930 of 990
Among these "mid-range" brands, best recommendation for a US E or EE width and a high instep? A Carmina Detroit last fits well in a LWB but I have no idea if some of these nice looking stitch cap oxfords would work. The AS Armfield, for example, is only available in their F (normal) fit.
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